Author name: Saskia Clarke

Art

Chuck Olson on Heritage, Ambiguity, and the Studio Beyond Time

Chuck Olson on Heritage, Ambiguity, and the Studio Beyond Time Written by Jahwanna Berglund images courtesy Ian Bald On his first visit to Stockholm, American painter Chuck Olson speaks with Jahwanna Berglund about Swedish-American inheritance, the cultural pull of France and Italy, deliberate ambiguity, and the studio as a place outside time. There were several firsts that evening. It was Chuck Olson’s first visit to Stockholm, and my first time passing through the gates of Villa Åkerlund, the official residence of the US Ambassador to Sweden. Hidden behind walls and greenery in Stockholm’s diplomatic quarter, the residence had long stirred my curiosity. I had often wondered what lay beyond its gates and, perhaps even more, what hung on its walls. Through the US State Department’s Art in Embassies programme, each ambassador helps select a collection of American art for the official residence during their posting. The result is something between a private home, a gallery, and a diplomatic stage, where the works become part of both everyday life and international exchange. Inside, the residence staff welcomed me and surrounded me with paintings carrying their own histories. Yet one work immediately held my attention: a monumental field of cobalt blue, painted by the man I had come to meet. Chuck Olson’s own connection to Sweden reaches back two generations. Swedish traditions remained present throughout his American childhood, woven into family rituals, faith and memory. After several days visiting art schools and cultural institutions across Stockholm, we sat down to speak about inheritance, cultural identity, and the quiet tensions that continue to shape his work. Jahwanna Berglund: Your grandparents left Sweden, yet Swedish traditions remained in your family. Two generations later, what did you inherit? Chuck Olson: When your grandparents move, the question becomes: what do you inherit of what mattered to them? We had Swedish Christmases. The 24th was Swedish, and the 25th was American. We went to a Swedish Lutheran church, and I was baptised there. That mixture of rituals becomes part of your cultural DNA. JB: Your life has also been shaped by France and Italy. What has each culture brought to your painting: palette, structure or the way you resolve a canvas? CO: I married a French woman, and we have built a life that moves between these cultures. The dinner table debates say a great deal. My Italian cousin once asked whose bread was better, and I said, ‘French’. In northern Italy, around Parma, you do not have the same abundance of vegetables as you find in the south, while the French kitchen is perhaps more curious. Still, those little Italian wines are perfect with pasta. At home, I cook Italian and Marie cooks French. In the studio, France sharpened my eye for structure and restraint, while Italy expanded my sense of light and my appetite for colour. I edit like a French painter and layer like an Italian cook: clarity overlaid with richness. JB: How did you come to know Ambassador Christine J. Toretti, and how did your work become part of the collection at Villa Åkerlund? CO: We are both from Indiana, Pennsylvania, which is also Jimmy Stewart’s hometown. With Christine, we met through education and the place of the arts in society. Politics aside, art is where we talk. When she said, ‘I want one of your paintings in the residence’, I thought, ‘Sweden, here we go’. JB: Your work is often described through a Franco-American duality. What happened when that sensibility encountered Sweden? CO: Before this visit, I did not know Sweden’s contemporary art culture firsthand. After three remarkable days visiting institutions and art schools, I have a much better sense of it. I am curious about how the Swedish eye reads restraint, silence and landscape, and how water, distance, and light operate here. JB: What are you seeking within the paintings themselves? CO: Often, it is a quiet confrontation. Not something angry, but the viewer alone. With this work, I kept thinking: I am in a kayak, by myself. I turn, and there is something there, perhaps a ruin. I like deliberate ambiguity—forms that feel like trees, and then perhaps they are not. Something beneath the water that you can see but cannot name. A British critic once wrote that my paintings are like a shell you pick up on the beach. It is too compelling to leave behind, so you put it in your pocket and take it home. You forget it on a shelf, and then one day you rediscover why you kept it. I do not think artists know everything about their work. It grows like a flower, with roots. I aim for the intellectual curiosity of an adult and the sense of wonder of a child. We oscillate between the two. JB: Where does that movement between play and responsibility enter the work? CO: A Zippo is a toy when you flick it, but once there is a flame, it becomes a responsibility. A pocketknife spins in the hand, but once the blade is out, it becomes a responsibility too. That shift from play to consequence is a space I like to paint. JB: What does the studio mean to you? CO: It is where nothing really changes. The paintings evolve, but for fifty years I have walked into the studio and become the same age again, somewhere in my early thirties. Your failures get better, but the work must remain restless enough to keep you honest. Doubt, excitement, the urge to leave and then return tomorrow: those are all signs that you are still alive in the work. JB: The cobalt painting at Villa Åkerlund was created two years ago. How did it develop, and how does it relate to the rest of the series? CO: I work on eight or nine paintings at once, in an easel room with built-in easels reaching three metres high. Some canvases are four metres wide, others three and a half or two and a half. If one painting stalls,

Design

An Interview with Tove Slotte: One Last Story from Moominvalley

An Interview with Tove Slotte: One Last Story from Moominvalley Written by Jahwanna Berglund   images courtesy Moomin Arabia Few everyday objects carry memory quite like a Moomin mug. Held in the hands and woven into daily rituals, they have become quiet companions to childhoods, homes, and generations of collectors worldwide. Behind one hundred thirteen of these designs is Finnish artist Tove Slotte, who, for more than three decades, translated Tove and Lars Jansson’s original illustrations from the page onto ceramic. Slotte’s work has always been an exercise in sensitivity: preserving the spirit of Jansson’s drawings while finding new relationships between characters, landscapes, and small, sometimes overlooked details. In doing so, she helped transform familiar scenes from Moominvalley into objects that feel deeply personal, each holding a story of its own. Her final mug brings this extraordinary chapter to a gentle close. Inspired by Tove Jansson’s 1955 comic strip Moomin’s Winter Follies, the autumnal design centres on the Moominhouse as the family prepares for hibernation. Completing the four seasons of the Moomin’s Day series, it feels both like a farewell and a return home. When I spoke with Slotte, I wanted to return to where it all began, long before Arabia and the one hundred thirteen designs: to her earliest memories of Moominvalley and the characters that first captured her imagination. Jahwanna Berglund: You began designing for Moomin Arabia more than three decades ago. Can you take us back to the beginning and tell us what first drew you into the world of the Moomins?  Tove Slotte: I actually grew up with the Moomin stories. My mother read the illustrated Moomin children’s books for my brother and me when we were small, at the beginning of the 1960s, and later on I read all the Moomin novels, and also some of the comic books. As a child, I was fascinated by Little My, and later on I admired Snufkin. I also loved to draw the Moomins as a child, and I drew them everywhere, in the sand with a stick, and in the snow.  About thirty-seven years ago I was working at Arabia as a designer, mostly doing decoration designs. The company hired a new product manager, Christel Vaenerberg, who also had loved the Moomins since her childhood. She planned that Arabia would make a Moomin collection with different items, and she asked me to design the surface decorations on these various items, since we had discussed our mutual love for the Moomins earlier. The first collection, in 1990, included four mugs, a children’s set with a plate, mug, and spoon, six small wall plates, two bigger wall plates with eight corners (later completed with an additional four pieces), and four Moomin figurines. The figurines were sculpted by Tuulikki Pietilä, the partner of Tove Jansson. JB: Your work has involved translating Tove Jansson’s original illustrations onto three-dimensional objects. How did you preserve the spirit of her drawings while gradually developing your own visual language?  TS: I do hope that I have preserved the spirit of Tove Jansson’s original  illustrations in my work. In the beginning, I was very cautious and careful with the illustrations. We promised Tove Jansson back then that we would use only her or her brother Lars Jansson’s original illustrations in the designs.  When working so long with the same theme and characters, I suppose you  just develop your own style, but I can’t really point out exactly what my style  is. I guess it has to do with colours, thickness, and variation in the contour lines, and how to put together different characters and background scenes.  Most of the details in a mug design are picked from different illustrations by  Tove Jansson, and I guess that’s what keeps the motif ‘original’ and contributes to the spirit of her drawings. JB: After creating one hundred thirteen Moomin mug designs, did your relationship with the characters change over time?  TS: Yes, I believe it did. At some point I was really tired of Moominvalley, and also of seeing Moomin trolls all over the place, not only in Moomin Arabia’s products, but on all kinds of items, from clothes to sweets and to furniture,  and everything in between. This also caused a reaction in my own design work, which actually made designing more interesting. As I discovered familiar illustrations on different objects in the stores or in magazines, I started to try to find unique illustrations that nobody else had used in their design work. Sometimes it could be a really small detail in a comic strip square that I enlarged so that it would become the main component in a decoration. I didn’t want to make ‘lazy’ designs with easy illustrations. I also became more interested in side characters, because the main character you could see everywhere. JB: Moomin mugs have grown from everyday objects into cherished collector’s pieces, often connected to deeply personal memories. Did you ever imagine that your designs would become so meaningful to people around the world?  TS: No, I couldn’t see it coming in the beginning. As I don’t think anyone could. It was nothing that was planned and aimed for; it just happened. It feels, of course, extremely nice that I have been able to contribute to these cherished pieces, but I strongly feel that the honour belongs to Tove Jansson. I have never felt that the Moomin mugs are completely my designs; both the shape and motifs of the mugs belong to famous creators, Kaj Franck and Tove Jansson. Not to forget the manufacturer, Moomin Arabia, with its high-quality standards and products. JB: Your final mug is inspired by Tove Jansson’s 1955 comic strip Moomin’s Winter Follies, showing Moominvalley in autumn as the family prepares for hibernation. What made this particular scene feel right for your final design?  TS: It was obvious that the final design would be an autumn motif, since it was the fourth mug in a season series, where summer, winter, and spring already existed. Tove Jansson

Opiates

The House Unveils the Gucci Primavera Campaign

The House Unveils the Gucci Primavera Campaign Gucci has launched the Primavera campaign, focusing on new beginnings inspired by love’s power to change us. Directed by Johan Renck, the short film features Kate Moss lip-syncing to American musician Chris Isaak’s baritone rendition of ‘Wicked Game’, as romantic strangers meet and fall in love on the dance floor. It captures the passion and intensity of the bold, lively possibilities of new love. Photographed by Michal Chelbin, the campaign shows close-up portraits inspired by modern Renaissance imagery. Echoing the stature of classical paintings, the images feature ten icons from music, film, fashion, and sports. These include Global Brand Ambassadors Xiao Zhan, Jin, and NINGNING, along with Tom Brady, Alex Consani, EsDeeKid, Lee Young Ae, Shawn Mendes, Rico Nasty, and Tarzzan. Together, they show the many sides of Gucci’s truly evolving spirit and Demna’s vision for the House. images courtesy Gucci The campaign spotlights the collection that debuted at Demna’s inaugural Gucci show, introducing exuberant silhouettes and light, easy textures. This collection reimagines Gucci’s signature style for today while honouring its storied heritage.  Discover more about Gucci at www.gucci.com

News

Swedish Stockings Celebrating A Night in Stockholm We Won’t Forget

Swedish Stockings Celebrating A Night in Stockholm We Won’t Forget Stockholm, Sweden, August 2026 – Swedish Stockings brought its updated brand identity and AW26 campaign to life with an evening at Tosto in Stockholm. Fashion, creativity and hosiery took centre stage as guests gathered for cocktails, conversation and a celebration of the new era of Swedish Stockings. The evening also marked the debut of a special collaboration with designer Nicole Walker. Created exclusively for the occasion, Walker transformed Swedish Stockings’ signature hosiery into a sculptural top, reimagining tights as a statement fashion piece and highlighting the everyday accessory’s creative potential. Throughout the evening, creative consultant and stylist Johanna Lager interviewed guests on camera, touching on everything from their thoughts on Swedish Stockings’ new symbol and enhanced visual identity to their favourite cocktail and, of course, how they plan to style tights this fall. The guest list brought together names from across Stockholm’s fashion and creative scene, including Vogue Scandinavia Senior Beauty & Shopping Editor Josefin Forsberg, stylist Hilda Sandström, singer Mapei, supermodel Sabina Karlsson and writer Allyson Shiffman. An evening of fashion, new beginnings – and plenty of fashionable stockings. image courtesy Swedish Stockings 

News

JEANERICA Opens New Store in Södermalm

JEANERICA opens new store in Södermalm JEANERICA has opened a new store at Nytorgsgatan 36A in Södermalm, Stockholm. It is a house defined by the ideas of its time: the house, the street, and the neighbourhood. As with the flagship store on Nybrogatan, which opened in September 2024, the new location draws inspiration from its surroundings. Founders Lena Patriksson Keller and Jonas Claeson, together with architect Daniel Östman, designed the space within a 1937 building by Backström & Reinius. Recognised for its teak-and-brick facade and refined Swedish modernism, the interior melds warmth and restraint. And yet, the building is also historically tied to Margareta Köhler, a pioneering Swedish interior architect and designer who co-founded Futurum with Maria-Louise Idestam-Blomberg in 1934. Futurum operated as an interior design studio and concept store, promoting a modern home defined by function, atmosphere, materiality, and daily life. Nearly a century later, these values remain evident in the architecture, neighbourhood, and building’s history. The store embodies the JEANERICA brand, combining craftsmanship and quality with heart. In The Pharmacy section, JEANERICA’s denim expertise is highlighted, demonstrating deep knowledge, attentive service, and a strong appreciation for materials. images courtesy JEANERICA

Opiates

Louis Vuitton x Singer: Louis Vuitton Takes the Road with Singer

Louis Vuitton x Singer: Louis Vuitton Takes the Road With Singer For the first time, Louis Vuitton partners with automotive specialist Singer to introduce a new way of travelling. Guided by the Maison’s Art of Travel philosophy, the collaboration has produced two exclusive cars: the first showcases Louis Vuitton’s historic trunk-making savoir-faire through its bespoke interior and signature metallic elements, while the second embodies Nicolas Ghesquière’s personal creative vision. Each car is complemented by an exclusive selection of lifestyle pieces and accessories, spanning ready-to-wear, shoes and leather goods—including the iconic Keepall. Together, they offer a contemporary expression of Louis Vuitton’s historic expertise in creating elegant, functional designs for motoring and travel. images courtesy Louis Vuitton Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic: Louis Vuitton’s most contemporary expression of the Art of Travel Finished in saffron and cobalt blue, the Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic is designed for epic journeys, with a bespoke roof rack that accommodates a trunk, surfboard, or skis. Its palette draws on Louis Vuitton’s historic packaging and the travel trunks created for Citroën in 1924, while bright yellow saddle stitching and a discreet LV motif in the rear grille reflect the Maison’s meticulous savoir-faire. Its dashboard incorporates a detachable mechanical clock created by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, which can also be displayed as a desk clock. A Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic Turbo: When fashion meets automotive design Following the coupé, Louis Vuitton and Singer extended their collaboration with a turbocharged cabriolet conceived by Nicolas Ghesquière, Artistic Director of Women’s Collections. The Porsche 911 Reimagined by Singer – Classic Turbo features ivory-white bodywork with subtle brown accents. Inside, leather and wood evoke the elegance of classic motorboats, blending nautical and automotive influences. A Tambour ceramic watch completes the accompanying capsule collection.

Beauty Articles

In the Garden Where It All Began – Visiting Yves Rocher’s Roots in La Gacilly

In the Garden Where It All Began – Visiting Yves Rocher’s Roots in La Gacilly text Sandra Myhrberg Sitting on a hillside between La Gacilly and Cournon, the La Grée des Landes Eco-Hôtel & Spa opened its doors in 2013 as Brittany’s first fully ecological hotel. I had the chance to experience its offerings while tracing Yves Rocher’s roots in La Gacilly, an area directly tied to the brand’s founder, where a young Yves Rocher once wandered, picking the wild plants and flowers that would later shape his life’s work. The hotel’s twenty-nine rooms are floored and panelled in oak from sustainably managed forests. The restaurant, Les Jardins Sauvages, grows its own organic, locavore produce. And I must mention the spa that runs entirely on Yves Rocher’s plant-based rituals. I also visited Yves Rocher’s birthplace, where, in the 1950s, a teenage Yves Rocher, following a healer’s recipe for a hemostatic ointment made from lesser Celandine, hand-mixed his very first batches of cream after losing his father. That ointment, made and sold from his own home, was the seed of everything that followed. Yves Rocher founded his company in 1959 on an idea that ran against the grain of its time: that plant biology and dermatology could be brought together to create skincare that actually worked. To deepen the science, he partnered with dermatologists. He founded CERCO, the Centre d’Études et de Recherches Cosmétiques, laying the groundwork for what the brand now calls dermobotany, skin physiology and plant knowledge treated as a single discipline. In the town of La Gacilly, there is also the Maison Yves Rocher, the brand’s immersive museum. Its five rooms walk visitors through the company’s story, sense by sense. images courtesy Yves Rocher Into the Living Laboratory That founding conviction is easiest to see at Yves Rocher’s pilot centre in agroecology, just outside La Gacilly, a working botanical garden that doubles as a research station. The site serves three purposes, its resident agronomist and botanist, Cécile L’Haridon, explained as we walked the plots. The first is production: growing the brand’s own plants organically, then processing them into the active ingredients that give its formulas their effect. The botanical garden itself is almost a manifesto, a visible, walkable version of the belief that plants belong in the cosmetics business, not just in its marketing. The second is innovation. ‘We try to imagine what tomorrow’s plants inside our cosmetics will be’, L’Haridon said, not just which new actives to develop, but which plants will even be possible to grow as the climate shifts. Nothing here is irrigated. Crops are chosen for drought resistance from the outset, and water is given only in narrow windows, just before blooming, in small amounts, if a heatwave threatens the flower itself. The third goal is harder to name in English. L’Haridon called it ‘influence’, but it’s closer to community: partnerships with local farmers, naturalists, and academic researchers, built on shared observation and shared science. Agroecology, she said, is too complex to figure out alone. photography Sandra Myhrberg Between the rows of plants destined for cosmetics, other crops such as phacelia and buckwheat are deliberately sown as living soil cover, plants that will never end up in a bottle. They pull different nutrients from the ground and then return them, building fertile, water-retentive soil that lets the ‘real’ crops survive a dry summer. Hedgerows thick with oak are managed the same way as corridors that let biodiversity move through the farm and give beneficial insects somewhere to nest, insects that then protect flowering crops like marigold and cornflower from disease. Two colleagues were at work in one plot, marking test rows with orange stakes and recording plant behaviour that will later become the statistical case for exactly how much a cover crop helps the cash crop growing beside it. ‘When we work on a new plant’, L’Haridon said, ‘we want a strong active with strong benefits for skin, and we want the plant to be able to manage present ecological pressures. Commitment and efficacy – these are our two goals’. A Walk Through the Garden The garden holds surprises even for a genus as familiar as chamomile. Yves Rocher grows both German and Roman chamomile side by side – visibly different plants – and the German variety, prized as a strong soothing agent, is what goes into skincare and makeup. From a single flower, L’Haridon’s team extracts three distinct botanical actives depending on the method: oil, supercritical CO2, or a botanical water, each pulling out different compounds. ‘It’s so rich’, she said. ‘A never-ending story’. photography Sandra Myhrberg Nearby grows the ice plant, Mesembryanthemum crystallinum, its leaves studded with water-filled vesicles. It can survive drought, salt, and blistering sun by shifting its metabolism, synthesising energy at night and adjusting output as conditions change. ‘If you can live in the desert, you are the future plant’, L’Haridon said. It’s the base of the brand’s anti-ageing Lift range. Its close relative, edulis, does something different: its water- and osmolyte-rich leaves make it a powerful moisturiser, the base of the Hydra range, which claims to hold skin hydration for 100 hours. The team even developed a specific cultivation method, which L’Haridon called a ‘technical itinerary’, to increase leaf surface area and boost the concentration of active compounds inside it. Cornflower shows how differently the same plant can be treated depending on its end use. Machine-harvested, the stem and leaves come with it; picked by hand, it’s flowers only, and it takes four hours of hand-picking to gather a single kilo, destined for the brand’s Pur Bleu cleansing range. Marigold follows a similar logic: sown after a season of soil-building cover crops specifically to concentrate its potency, with the surrounding hedgerows and plant covers studied for their direct effect on how powerful the resulting active turns out to be. Ask L’Haridon for a favourite, though, and she doesn’t reach for any of the showier plants. ‘Have you heard of phacelia?’ Modest-looking and little known outside the industry, it’s

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