Author name: Saskia Clarke

In Conversation with Samsøe Samsøe: Inside the Zalando Collaboration Could you describe the new ‘Summer in the City’ capsule in your own words, and what are some standout pieces or design elements in this collection that you’re particularly excited about? Samsøe Samsøe: Summer in the City is inspired by the feeling of spending summer in a Scandinavian city, where life naturally moves outdoors and the days often continue long into the evening. We wanted to create a wardrobe that feels effortless and versatile, with pieces that work across different moments of the day without feeling overstyled. The capsule brings together womenswear and menswear through a shared design language. There are pieces that naturally sit across both wardrobes alongside styles developed specifically for women. I like that balance because it reflects how many people dress today. It’s less about defining who something is for and more about how it fits into someone’s personal wardrobe. Tell us about the creative process leading up to the collection. Where did you draw your inspiration? SS: The collection started with observing how people experience the city during summer. There is a certain optimism that comes with the season. People spend more time outside, the pace feels different, and the city becomes a place for gathering as much as moving through. We looked at Scandinavian architecture, urban landscapes and the contrast between clean lines and softer natural elements. But most importantly, we were inspired by real life. We always want to create clothes that become part of someone’s everyday wardrobe rather than existing for a single moment. Design is a collaborative process, so throughout the development we worked closely across design, fabrics, colour and styling to make sure every piece felt connected. images courtesy Zalando In your opinion, what is the essence of the 2026 Scandinavian urban summerstyle? SS: For me, it is about ease and confidence. Scandinavian style has never been about wearing more than you need. It is about thoughtful choices, quality materials and silhouettes that feel relevant beyond one season. I think people are becoming more personal in the way they dress. They mix tailoring with casual pieces, combine womenswear and menswear influences, and build wardrobes that reflect their own lifestyle rather than following trends. That feels very contemporary to me. What does an ideal Scandinavian summer day look like for you? SS: It starts with coffee outside before the city gets busy. Then it’s a bike ride to the studio and spending the day with the team, which always feels different during summer because everyone brings a lighter energy. The best part is the evening, when there is still daylight and no real pressure to be anywhere. Meeting friends outside, sitting by the water or simply walking through Copenhagen is often enough. Those long Nordic evenings are something very special. In the Nordics, urban summer lifestyle is deeply tied to festival culture. Do you attend festivals yourself? And if so, what has been your most memorable festival moment? SS: I enjoy festivals because they bring together music, creativity and people from very different backgrounds. It’s one of the few places where personal style feels completely natural and individual. What stays with me most is not necessarily one particular performance, but the atmosphere. When the sun starts to set, everyone is together, and there is a real feeling of openness and community. That sense of freedom was definitely something we wanted to capture in the collection. In the Nordics, city summer living and festival culture are deeply connected. How do these pieces transition from everyday city routines to the vibrant, expressive atmosphere of a major urban festival? SS: We designed the capsule with flexibility in mind. The same outfit should be able to take you through different parts of the day with only small styling changes. Whether it’s relaxed tailoring, an oversized shirt, lightweight outerwear or an easy dress, the pieces are designed to be layered and styled in different ways. Many of them can also move naturally between womenswear and menswear wardrobes, which creates even more possibilities for personal styling. For us, that reflects modern dressing. People want clothes that adapt to their lives rather than the other way around. This capsule is launching exclusively across all Zalando markets. What makes Zalando the ideal partner for Samsøe Samsøe when bringing a contemporary Scandinavian fashion narrative to a broad, style-conscious audience? SS: Zalando has built a strong relationship with customers who appreciate contemporary fashion and quality, so it feels like a natural partner for us.What makes this collaboration exciting is the opportunity to present a complete Samsøe Samsøe story through both womenswear and menswear. While each collection has its own identity, they share the same values and design philosophy, and many of the pieces naturally complement one another. That reflects the way we approach design as a brand. Together, we can bring a contemporary Scandinavian perspective to a wider audience while staying true to who we are. Looking ahead, what are your creative ambitions for the brand, and how do you see partnerships with Zalando moving forward? SS: Our ambition is to keep refining what contemporary Scandinavian fashion can be. We are always looking at how we can make our collections feel more relevant, more considered and ultimately more lasting. We want to continue building wardrobes that people come back to season after season. Partnerships like this allow us to reach new audiences and share our design perspective in meaningful ways, while remaining consistent with the identity of the brand. How do you stay inspired and motivated in an industry that’s constantly evolving and competitive? SS: For me, it starts with curiosity. Inspiration comes from many places, fromarchitecture and art to travel, conversations, and simply observing how people dress in everyday life. At the same time, I think it is important not to constantly look for the next new thing. Some of the strongest ideas come from refining something rather than reinventing it. I find it motivating to create clothes that people

Zalando Visionary Award 2026: An Interview with INSTITUTION’s Designer Galib Gassanoff Zalando crowned INSTITUTION, under the creative direction of Galib Gassanoff, as the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award 2026, unveiling its SS27 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. At Copenhagen Contemporary, the Zalando Visionary Space invited visitors to immerse themselves in the world of fashion, technology, and craftsmanship via interactive workshops, blazing showcases, and hands-on activations. Now celebrating its fourth year, the Zalando Visionary Award stands as a testament to Zalando’s pledge to nurture innovation, drive social impact, and champion diverse creative voices in fashion. Last week, Zalando returned to Copenhagen to celebrate the SS27 season of the Zalando Visionary Award. INSTITUTION, this year’s winner, presented its debut runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Zalando also welcomed fashion enthusiasts to the Zalando Visionary Space, a two-day exhibition platforming the creative talent behind the award. Designer Galib Gassanoff led INSTITUTION’s Copenhagen Fashion Week debut with its SS27 collection, YAD, at the National Gallery of Denmark. YAD, which means ‘foreign’ and ‘memory’ in Azerbaijani, traced the process from raw materials to finished clothing and explored ideas of belonging and cultural heritage. The collection mixed modern design with the skills of Georgian communities where Gassanoff grew up. Local craftspeople helped create knitted pieces, while models walked barefoot in handmade jorabs, honouring the Caucasus tradition of removing shoes before entering a home. Sculptural pieces made from cotton cord showed the artisans’ skill and kept old techniques alive. As the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award 2026, INSTITUTION received a €50,000 prize. And yet, beyond financial support, Zalando is also offering guidance, customised business support, and connections to important industry groups. This comes as part of its overall commitment to new ideas, social impact, and diverse creative talent in fashion. What does winning the Zalando Visionary Award 2026 mean to you at this stage in INSTITUTION’s journey? Galib Gassanoff: It is a meaningful moment because it acknowledges a way of working that has always been rooted in patience rather than speed. Since the beginning, INSTITUTION has been about building something with purpose, something that values craft, cultural knowledge and human connection as much as the finished garment. To receive this recognition at this stage gives us confidence to continue investing in those values. It also creates opportunities to amplify the conversations we have been trying to initiate around preservation, education and the future of craftsmanship. INSTITUTION is recognised for its commitment to craft and cultural preservation. How would you define the core vision of the brand today? GG: I see INSTITUTION as more than a fashion label. It is a platform where clothing becomes a way to preserve knowledge, tell stories, and create dialogue between generations. The vision is to demonstrate that craftsmanship is not something nostalgic or static; it is a living language that can evolve alongside contemporary design. Every collection is an attempt to build that bridge between heritage and modernity. images courtesy INSTITUTION photography James Cochrane The Zalando Visionary Award celebrates design, innovation and social impact. How do these principles come through in your work at INSTITUTION day-to-day? GG: For me, innovation begins with asking better questions rather than simply creating something new. Every decision, from the way we develop patterns to the people we collaborate with, is guided by the idea that design should have meaning beyond aesthetics. Social impact comes through supporting craftspeople, preserving endangered techniques, and creating opportunities for cultural exchange. Design is only successful when it creates value not just for the wearer, but also for the communities involved in making it. Your practice is deeply informed by heritage and traditional craft. Does your cultural background continue to shape the way you design? GG: Absolutely. Growing up in Georgia gave me an understanding of craftsmanship that goes beyond technique. It taught me that making things is connected to memory, resilience, and identity. I don’t approach heritage through literal references or folklore. Instead, I try to translate its values – precision, respect for materials, generosity of making – into contemporary forms that can feel relevant today. INSTITUTION has grown beyond the traditional boundaries of a fashion brand. Was that always your ambition, or did the work naturally evolve into a wider platform for craft and cultural preservation? GG: It was always the intention. From the beginning, I didn’t want to build just a fashion label. I wanted to create a platform where fashion could exist alongside craft, cultural research, and knowledge-sharing. The name INSTITUTION itself reflects that ambition; it suggests a place where ideas are preserved, developed, and passed on. Clothing is one expression of that vision, but it has never been the only one. Collaborating with artisans, documenting traditional techniques, and creating dialogue around cultural heritage were always fundamental to the project. For me, fashion is a powerful medium because it connects people, but the larger goal has always been to build an institution that contributes to preserving and evolving craftsmanship for future generations. Innovation and the usage of traditional techniques are often seen as opposing forces. How do you preserve craftsmanship while continuing to push your work forward creatively? GG: I don’t believe they are opposites. Craftsmanship has always evolved. Every tradition exists because someone was willing to adapt it to their own time. My role is not to preserve techniques unchanged, but to understand their essence and allow them to evolve through new materials, new technologies, and different contexts. Respecting tradition doesn’t mean only repeating the past; it means also giving it a future. What does ‘visionary’ mean to you personally within the context of fashion right now? GG: It is about having the courage to stay committed to an idea even when it doesn’t follow the industry’s expectations. It means thinking long-term, building responsibly, and contributing something meaningful to culture rather than simply responding to the market. For me, vision comes from consistency and curiosity. How do platforms like the Zalando Visionary Award help shape the future of independent design voices like INSTITUTION? GG: Independent designers often