Fashion Articles

Fashion Articles

Twenty Years of Instinct: The Woman Behind the World of Sézane

Twenty Years of Instinct: The Woman Behind the World of Sézane A fashion brand often begins before it has a name. It takes shape in the things its founder notices, keeps and returns to; in the images collected, the objects given a second life and the instincts that gradually become a point of view. For Morgane Sézalory, that instinct first found expression through vintage pieces sold online under Les Composantes and later evolved into Sézane, a brand whose idea of Parisian style has travelled far beyond the streets of Paris. Two decades on, Sézalory is not simply looking back. A newly sharpened visual identity and more deliberate silhouettes mark a period of refinement, shaped by a clearer understanding of what should evolve and what must remain. At its centre is still the personal world that started it all: photography, art, vintage, enduring design and the freedom to follow her own path. In our conversation, Sézalory reflects on the independence that shaped her, the clarity that has come with time and why Sézane now feels closer than ever to the woman she is today. Jahwanna Berglund: Looking back, do you feel the world of Sézane began taking shape long before the brand itself? I would love to hear about the women, places and early memories that shaped your eye, and how they continue to influence the world you are creating today.  Morgane Sézalory: From a very early age, my parents taught me to trust my instincts. There was never one prescribed route to follow; we were encouraged to pursue whatever sparked our curiosity, creatively and intellectually. I actually chose to leave school and complete my final years as an independent candidate. Even then, I think I was already seeking greater independence.  I think that freedom developed my curiosity. I learned to look closely, to notice the character of an object or the detail that makes something feel singular. Long before Sézane existed, that way of seeing the world was already there.  JB: Your story began with Les Composantes and a love of finding vintage pieces with a past. What do you think you were really searching for back then?  MS: I was searching for freedom. I realised at a young age that I wanted to work for myself and create my own path. Selling my vintage finds online gave me that independence, although I had no idea where it might lead.  I was also drawn to beautiful things made to last. Each vintage piece had a character and a history that deserved to be preserved. I loved finding these objects, recognising what made them special and giving them a new life. Looking back, that appreciation for enduring design was already at the heart of what Sézane would become.  JB: You have said that your perspective has sharpened and your desires have become clearer with time. How has the woman you are today changed the brand you want Sézane to become? MS: When I first started out 20 years ago, I had no plan. Sézane grew through instinct, encounters and the joy of creating, with an urgency that meant I rarely stopped to consider where it was all heading. I loved that intensity and became used to that pace.  Approaching forty gave me a little more perspective. I began to look at Sézane with some distance and recognise how much I had evolved since I was twenty-one. Today, I have a clearer sense of where I want to place our energy, what feels essential and what we can let go of. I want to create with greater intention, while continuing to place enduring design, quality and human connection at the heart of Sézane.  This new chapter has been taking shape for almost eighteen months. After twenty years of learning, I finally feel ready to bring my vision fully to life and make Sézane even closer to who I am today and what I believe.  JB: This new chapter feels more intentional, with stronger silhouettes and a more defined visual identity. Was there a particular moment when you realised Sézane was ready to evolve?  MS: That evolution really began with a period of reflection around two years ago. With a little distance, I could see more clearly what we wanted to refine and what felt essential to preserve. We began questioning some of our habits, editing more carefully and becoming more deliberate in our choices.  JB: Art, photography, books and vintage all seem to inhabit the same world for you. What is inspiring you at the moment, and how do those personal discoveries find their way into the world of Sézane? MS: I find inspiration everywhere, often when I am not consciously looking for it. Photography has always been especially important to me, and James Barnor’s work has become a real touchstone for this chapter. I am also inspired by artists such as William Klein, Vivian Maier and Harry Gruyaert, who each capture life with such curiosity and humanity.  There is such warmth in Barnor’s photographs. In his images, clothing speaks. A dress, a uniform or a kente cloth can tell us something about an era, a way of life and how someone chooses to present themselves to the world. That relationship between clothing and everyday life feels very close to Sézane.  JB: If you could sit down with the woman you were when this all began, what would you want to tell her?  MS: I would tell her to keep trusting her instincts, protect her independence, and forge her own path. I would tell her that the years ahead would teach her when to run, when to pause and, eventually, how to see more clearly what matters most. But I wouldn’t give her all the answers. So much of the story came from not knowing what would happen next.

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Twenty-Five Years of Sofie Schnoor, Celebrated with Veneda Carter

Twenty-Five Years of Sofie Schnoor, Celebrated with Veneda Carter In Copenhagen, Sofie Schnoor marked a quarter of a century with The Icon Collection: 25 pieces shaped by the contrasts that have defined the Danish brand from the beginning, with stylist and creative Veneda Carter as the face of its anniversary campaign. Anniversaries naturally invite us to look back. The most compelling ones, however, make the past feel newly alive. In Copenhagen, Sofie Schnoor’s 25th anniversary did exactly that, bringing fresh energy and new eyes to the signatures that have shaped the brand since its beginning. I was lucky enough to celebrate with the team in the city where the story began. There was no nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake. Instead, the evening felt like a celebration of an identity that has grown in confidence while remaining unmistakably its own. Created for the anniversary, The Icon Collection is a capsule of 25 exclusive styles, one for each year of the brand. Bringing it to life is Danish-born stylist and creative Veneda Carter, famously described by Kim Kardashian as “the coolest person she knows”. It is difficult to imagine a more fitting face for the collection. Veneda has the rare ability to make almost anything she wears feel entirely her own, always with a little extra spice. Her style is instinctive and unapologetic, moving easily between strength and sensuality, streetwear and refinement. In the campaign, she embodies the contrasts that have always existed within the Sofie Schnoor universe: rawness and femininity, softness and attitude, Nordic restraint and a distinctly French sense of ease. “I had the greatest time with the Sofie Schnoor team and am so grateful to be a part of this campaign,” Veneda says. “It is always so special to work in my hometown.” Her connection to Copenhagen lends the collaboration an added intimacy. Despite Veneda’s international career and influence, there is something special about seeing her return to the city through the lens of a Danish brand celebrating its own journey into the world. The collection draws on the music and subcultures of the late 1980s and early 1990s, translating their energy into a contemporary wardrobe. Sharp tailoring is softened by fluid silhouettes, while silk, leather and cashmere give the pieces a tactile richness. The rock ’n’ roll references are present but never feel like costumes. Instead, they emerge through the confidence of a cut, the tension between materials and, ultimately, the attitude with which each piece is worn. “The Icon Collection brings together the references that have shaped my work from the beginning,” says founder and Creative Director Sofie Schnoor. “I wanted to bring all of that into one collection. It feels very personal to me, because every piece connects back to something that has been part of the Sofie Schnoor universe over the past 25 years.” That personal foundation has been present since 2001, when Sofie founded the brand at the age of 26 from a small apartment in Copenhagen. What began as an independent idea has grown into an international fashion and lifestyle company stocked in more than 800 stores worldwide. Around 70 per cent of its business now comes from international markets, yet the company remains entirely family-owned and has continued to grow organically. In an industry so often driven by speed, building something over 25 years without losing the personality that first made people take notice is no small achievement. The anniversary collection reflects that longevity, not only in its references to the past but in its emphasis on lasting wear: these are pieces designed to be worn, lived in and kept. The Icon Collection is available exclusively in SOFIE SCHNOOR stores across Denmark and online from 27 August 2026.

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ATP Atelier x Tretorn: Design for All Weather

ATP Atelier x Tretorn: Design for All Weather ATP Atelier and Tretorn bring together two distinct design identities in a new collaboration shaped by Scandinavian weather, city life and a shared belief in thoughtful design. Combining Tretorn’s technical expertise with ATP Atelier’s refined approach to craftsmanship and proportion, the collection explores how beauty and function can coexist. text by Ulrika Lindqvist  Ulrika Lindqvist: Congratulations on the collaboration! How did the idea of bringing ATP Atelier and Tretorn together first come about?  Maj-La Pizzelli: The collaboration felt very natural from the beginning. Tretorn has an incredible heritage in functional outerwear, while ATP Atelier has always been about refined everyday essentials. What brought us together was a shared belief that good design should genuinely improve everyday life. Since the beginning, ATP Atelier has challenged the traditional idea of luxury. For us, luxury isn’t about excess, it’s about creating thoughtful, beautifully crafted products that combine function, longevity and timeless design. That’s what we call smart luxury – a philosophy that felt naturally aligned with Tretorn’s heritage and values. UL: How did the creative process differ from developing collections for your own brand? Were there any new perspectives or challenges that came from designing together? Carl-Henrik Hallén: Working on a collection with another brand always challenges you in a positive way because you need to define what each brand brings to the table, and how these two identities can be weaved together. Instead of starting from a blank page, we began with two strong identities that needed to complement rather than compete. MLP:  It was an inspiring process of combining Tretorn’s technical expertise with our Scandinavian approach to proportion, materials and design. We constantly asked ourselves how to make each piece feel both beautifully refined and genuinely purposeful, because to us, thoughtful design should never ask you to choose between beauty and function. UL: For ATP Atelier, this marks your first venture into outerwear. What was that experience like, and what did you want to bring to this category? MLP:  Outerwear felt like a very natural extension of our universe. We’ve always designed products that accompany women through everyday life, and outerwear simply expands that wardrobe. Our ambition wasn’t to reinvent the raincoat, but to bring our perspective on silhouette, detailing and longevity into the category. We wanted to create pieces that perform beautifully while feeling refined – products people will want to wear season after season. UL: What inspired the collection, and what story or mood did you want it to convey? CHH: The collection is inspired by the unpredictability of Scandinavian weather and the rhythm of city life. Weather is something we all experience, yet we often see it as something to overcome. MLP:  The creative concept actually started with a simple observation: weather has a way of following us. Even when we’re indoors, it’s still part of our day, influencing how we dress, move and feel. That inspired the playful idea of bringing dramatic weather conditions into an office environment,  blurring the boundaries between inside and outside. There’s a subtle sense of humour to it, but it also reflects a very Scandinavian mindset: life doesn’t stop because the weather changes. CHH:  Ultimately, both the collection and the campaign celebrate the idea that thoughtful design can be both beautiful and purposeful. We wanted to create products that combine beauty with purpose – pieces that become lasting wardrobe favourites rather than seasonal statements. UL: Can you walk us through the design process? How did the collaboration evolve from the initial concept to the final pieces? CHH:  It was a very open and collaborative process. Rather than dividing responsibilities, we worked closely together from the very beginning, constantly challenging each other and refining every detail. MLP:  Tretorn brought deep technical expertise, while we contributed our perspective on design, proportion and craftsmanship. One of the most interesting outcomes was introducing natural hair-on cowhide into the collection – a material Tretorn had never used before, but a natural extension of ATP Atelier’s heritage of working with genuine leather. Because every hide is unique, no two products are exactly alike. It felt like a beautiful meeting between Tretorn’s technical expertise and ATP Atelier’s craftsmanship, bringing warmth, character and individuality to the collection. CHH:  The goal was never to create a compromise between two brands, but to create something that genuinely felt like the best of both. UL: Both ATP Atelier and Tretorn have distinct design identities. How did you balance those signatures while creating a collection that feels cohesive? MLP:  We never wanted one brand to overpower the other. Instead, we focused on the values we genuinely share. Tretorn brings decades of expertise in weather protection and technical innovation, while ATP Atelier contributes a refined design language rooted in craftsmanship, thoughtful design and enduring quality. The result is a collection where both identities remain recognisable, but together they create something neither brand would have designed on its own. UL: Looking ahead, what’s next for you? Are there any upcoming projects or ideas you’re particularly excited about? MLP:  We’re always interested in exploring new product categories and meaningful collaborations, but only when they feel authentic to who we are. This collaboration reflects the direction we’re taking as a brand. We’ll continue creating products that combine exceptional craftsmanship with thoughtful design, continuing to challenge the traditional idea of luxury through our philosophy of smart luxury. CHH: At Tretorn we’re continuing to explore what our weather protective products can look like, experiment with new materials and a more elevated design language. We’re entering our prime season with rain, wind and snow and we’re really excited about launching new beautiful products for this season.  The collection consists of five products: a tall boot, two ankle boots, an oversized rain trench coat, and a bowling bag and is released on september third.   

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In Conversation with Samsøe Samsøe: Inside the Zalando Collaboration

In Conversation with Samsøe Samsøe: Inside the Zalando Collaboration Could you describe the new ‘Summer in the City’ capsule in your own words, and what are some standout pieces or design elements in this collection that you’re particularly excited about? Samsøe Samsøe: Summer in the City is inspired by the feeling of spending summer in a Scandinavian city, where life naturally moves outdoors and the days often continue long into the evening. We wanted to create a wardrobe that feels effortless and versatile, with pieces that work across different moments of the day without feeling overstyled. The capsule brings together womenswear and menswear through a shared design language. There are pieces that naturally sit across both wardrobes alongside styles developed specifically for women. I like that balance because it reflects how many people dress today. It’s less about defining who something is for and more about how it fits into someone’s personal wardrobe. Tell us about the creative process leading up to the collection. Where did you draw your inspiration? SS: The collection started with observing how people experience the city during summer. There is a certain optimism that comes with the season. People spend more time outside, the pace feels different, and the city becomes a place for gathering as much as moving through. We looked at Scandinavian architecture, urban landscapes and the contrast between clean lines and softer natural elements. But most importantly, we were inspired by real life. We always want to create clothes that become part of someone’s everyday wardrobe rather than existing for a single moment. Design is a collaborative process, so throughout the development we worked closely across design, fabrics, colour and styling to make sure every piece felt connected. images courtesy Zalando In your opinion, what is the essence of the 2026 Scandinavian urban summerstyle? SS: For me, it is about ease and confidence. Scandinavian style has never been about wearing more than you need. It is about thoughtful choices, quality materials and silhouettes that feel relevant beyond one season. I think people are becoming more personal in the way they dress. They mix tailoring with casual pieces, combine womenswear and menswear influences, and build wardrobes that reflect their own lifestyle rather than following trends. That feels very contemporary to me. What does an ideal Scandinavian summer day look like for you? SS: It starts with coffee outside before the city gets busy. Then it’s a bike ride to the studio and spending the day with the team, which always feels different during summer because everyone brings a lighter energy. The best part is the evening, when there is still daylight and no real pressure to be anywhere. Meeting friends outside, sitting by the water or simply walking through Copenhagen is often enough. Those long Nordic evenings are something very special. In the Nordics, urban summer lifestyle is deeply tied to festival culture. Do you attend festivals yourself? And if so, what has been your most memorable festival moment? SS: I enjoy festivals because they bring together music, creativity and people from very different backgrounds. It’s one of the few places where personal style feels completely natural and individual. What stays with me most is not necessarily one particular performance, but the atmosphere. When the sun starts to set, everyone is together, and there is a real feeling of openness and community. That sense of freedom was definitely something we wanted to capture in the collection. In the Nordics, city summer living and festival culture are deeply connected. How do these pieces transition from everyday city routines to the vibrant, expressive atmosphere of a major urban festival? SS: We designed the capsule with flexibility in mind. The same outfit should be able to take you through different parts of the day with only small styling changes. Whether it’s relaxed tailoring, an oversized shirt, lightweight outerwear or an easy dress, the pieces are designed to be layered and styled in different ways. Many of them can also move naturally between womenswear and menswear wardrobes, which creates even more possibilities for personal styling. For us, that reflects modern dressing. People want clothes that adapt to their lives rather than the other way around. This capsule is launching exclusively across all Zalando markets. What makes Zalando the ideal partner for Samsøe Samsøe when bringing a contemporary Scandinavian fashion narrative to a broad, style-conscious audience? SS: Zalando has built a strong relationship with customers who appreciate contemporary fashion and quality, so it feels like a natural partner for us.What makes this collaboration exciting is the opportunity to present a complete Samsøe Samsøe story through both womenswear and menswear. While each collection has its own identity, they share the same values and design philosophy, and many of the pieces naturally complement one another. That reflects the way we approach design as a brand. Together, we can bring a contemporary Scandinavian perspective to a wider audience while staying true to who we are. Looking ahead, what are your creative ambitions for the brand, and how do you see partnerships with Zalando moving forward? SS: Our ambition is to keep refining what contemporary Scandinavian fashion can be. We are always looking at how we can make our collections feel more relevant, more considered and ultimately more lasting. We want to continue building wardrobes that people come back to season after season. Partnerships like this allow us to reach new audiences and share our design perspective in meaningful ways, while remaining consistent with the identity of the brand. How do you stay inspired and motivated in an industry that’s constantly evolving and competitive? SS: For me, it starts with curiosity. Inspiration comes from many places, fromarchitecture and art to travel, conversations, and simply observing how people dress in everyday life. At the same time, I think it is important not to constantly look for the next new thing. Some of the strongest ideas come from refining something rather than reinventing it. I find it motivating to create clothes that people

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Zalando Visionary Award 2026: An Interview with INSTITUTION’s Designer Galib Gassanoff

Zalando Visionary Award 2026: An Interview with INSTITUTION’s Designer Galib Gassanoff Zalando crowned INSTITUTION, under the creative direction of Galib Gassanoff, as the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award 2026, unveiling its SS27 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. At Copenhagen Contemporary, the Zalando Visionary Space invited visitors to immerse themselves in the world of fashion, technology, and craftsmanship via interactive workshops, blazing showcases, and hands-on activations. Now celebrating its fourth year, the Zalando Visionary Award stands as a testament to Zalando’s pledge to nurture innovation, drive social impact, and champion diverse creative voices in fashion. Last week, Zalando returned to Copenhagen to celebrate the SS27 season of the Zalando Visionary Award. INSTITUTION, this year’s winner, presented its debut runway show at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Zalando also welcomed fashion enthusiasts to the Zalando Visionary Space, a two-day exhibition platforming the creative talent behind the award. Designer Galib Gassanoff led INSTITUTION’s Copenhagen Fashion Week debut with its SS27 collection, YAD, at the National Gallery of Denmark. YAD, which means ‘foreign’ and ‘memory’ in Azerbaijani, traced the process from raw materials to finished clothing and explored ideas of belonging and cultural heritage. The collection mixed modern design with the skills of Georgian communities where Gassanoff grew up. Local craftspeople helped create knitted pieces, while models walked barefoot in handmade jorabs, honouring the Caucasus tradition of removing shoes before entering a home. Sculptural pieces made from cotton cord showed the artisans’ skill and kept old techniques alive. As the winner of the Zalando Visionary Award 2026, INSTITUTION received a €50,000 prize. And yet, beyond financial support, Zalando is also offering guidance, customised business support, and connections to important industry groups. This comes as part of its overall commitment to new ideas, social impact, and diverse creative talent in fashion. What does winning the Zalando Visionary Award 2026 mean to you at this stage in INSTITUTION’s journey? Galib Gassanoff: It is a meaningful moment because it acknowledges a way of working that has always been rooted in patience rather than speed. Since the beginning, INSTITUTION has been about building something with purpose, something that values craft, cultural knowledge and human connection as much as the finished garment. To receive this recognition at this stage gives us confidence to continue investing in those values. It also creates opportunities to amplify the conversations we have been trying to initiate around preservation, education and the future of craftsmanship. INSTITUTION is recognised for its commitment to craft and cultural preservation. How would you define the core vision of the brand today? GG: I see INSTITUTION as more than a fashion label. It is a platform where clothing becomes a way to preserve knowledge, tell stories, and create dialogue between generations. The vision is to demonstrate that craftsmanship is not something nostalgic or static; it is a living language that can evolve alongside contemporary design. Every collection is an attempt to build that bridge between heritage and modernity. images courtesy INSTITUTION photography James Cochrane The Zalando Visionary Award celebrates design, innovation and social impact. How do these principles come through in your work at INSTITUTION day-to-day? GG: For me, innovation begins with asking better questions rather than simply creating something new. Every decision, from the way we develop patterns to the people we collaborate with, is guided by the idea that design should have meaning beyond aesthetics. Social impact comes through supporting craftspeople, preserving endangered techniques, and creating opportunities for cultural exchange. Design is only successful when it creates value not just for the wearer, but also for the communities involved in making it. Your practice is deeply informed by heritage and traditional craft. Does your cultural background continue to shape the way you design? GG: Absolutely. Growing up in Georgia gave me an understanding of craftsmanship that goes beyond technique. It taught me that making things is connected to memory, resilience, and identity. I don’t approach heritage through literal references or folklore. Instead, I try to translate its values – precision, respect for materials, generosity of making – into contemporary forms that can feel relevant today. INSTITUTION has grown beyond the traditional boundaries of a fashion brand. Was that always your ambition, or did the work naturally evolve into a wider platform for craft and cultural preservation? GG: It was always the intention. From the beginning, I didn’t want to build just a fashion label. I wanted to create a platform where fashion could exist alongside craft, cultural research, and knowledge-sharing. The name INSTITUTION itself reflects that ambition; it suggests a place where ideas are preserved, developed, and passed on. Clothing is one expression of that vision, but it has never been the only one. Collaborating with artisans, documenting traditional techniques, and creating dialogue around cultural heritage were always fundamental to the project. For me, fashion is a powerful medium because it connects people, but the larger goal has always been to build an institution that contributes to preserving and evolving craftsmanship for future generations. Innovation and the usage of traditional techniques are often seen as opposing forces. How do you preserve craftsmanship while continuing to push your work forward creatively? GG: I don’t believe they are opposites. Craftsmanship has always evolved. Every tradition exists because someone was willing to adapt it to their own time. My role is not to preserve techniques unchanged, but to understand their essence and allow them to evolve through new materials, new technologies, and different contexts. Respecting tradition doesn’t mean only repeating the past; it means also giving it a future. What does ‘visionary’ mean to you personally within the context of fashion right now? GG: It is about having the courage to stay committed to an idea even when it doesn’t follow the industry’s expectations. It means thinking long-term, building responsibly, and contributing something meaningful to culture rather than simply responding to the market. For me, vision comes from consistency and curiosity. How do platforms like the Zalando Visionary Award help shape the future of independent design voices like INSTITUTION? GG: Independent designers often

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Stockholm Consolidates Its Role as the Nordic Fashion Hub with Fashion Week Trade

Stockholm Consolidates Its Role as the Nordic Fashion Hub with Fashion Week Trade Fashion Week Trade returns to Stockholm Fashion District from 10 to 14 August, bringing together over 700 brands, thousands of buyers, a Ukrainian fashion delegation, and a conference on AI and new business models. Hosted at Stockholm Fashion District, this year’s Fashion Week Trade takes place from August 10 until  August 14, welcoming over 700 Swedish and international brands alongside thousands of buyers, distributors and decision-makers. Spanning 21,000 square metres across Stockholm Showroom, Stockholm Shoe House and Nacka Strandsmässan’s two halls, in partnership with Alecta Fastigheter, the event positions Stockholm as the primary trade gateway to the Nordic market. Among the brands showing are Björn Borg, GANT, Jennifer Blom, and Rock and Blue, meeting buyers from independent retailers, department stores, and e-commerce platforms. Timberland and Ilse Jacobsen are also opening permanent showrooms in the district during the week. Sweden’s fashion industry generates approximately 178 billion kronor annually, employs 41,000 people, and exports fashion worth 41 billion kronor, according to the 2025 Swedish Fashion report.  “Sweden is a fashion nation with real weight. We export fashion to the whole world, and at the same time, more and more international players are choosing Stockholm as their entry point to the Nordic market,” says Helena Waker, CEO, Trade Partners Sweden and Stockholm Fashion District. For the first time, a selection of Ukrainian fashion companies will participate in Fashion Week Trade, with the aim of building new business connections and raising the profile of Ukraine’s fashion industry internationally. The initiative frames trade as a tool for resilience and reconstruction alongside commercial opportunity. Sweden’s Minister for Foreign Trade and Aid, Benjamin Dousa, will visit the event during the week as part of the government’s work with cultural and creative industries. Running parallel to the trade fair is the Transformation Conference, organised by Scandinavian Mind, bringing together more than 150 decision-makers from the fashion and technology sectors to discuss AI, digitalisation, circular solutions, and new business models. “For the fashion industry, the task is to translate AI, digitalisation, and circular solutions into concrete business outcomes,” says Waker. “The Swedish fashion industry can and wants to transition, but it requires fair conditions, coordinated policy, and free trade on equal terms.”

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An Interview with Frederik Berner Kühl: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Winner 2026

An Interview with Frederik Berner Kühl: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Winner 2026 BERNER KÜHL received the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2026. For the first time, the winner was announced at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27, underscoring the Prize’s support for emerging Danish designers and their international recognition. To honour Magasin du Nord’s legacy, the jury observed the menswear label’s creative process during a live studio session in April. Founder Frederik Berner Kühl shared his refined approach to contemporary clothing with us. Sandra Myhrberg: The new format puts the jury inside your studio for a live working session on April 9th, not just reviewing a finished collection. What are you most nervous or excited about them seeing up close?  Frederik Berner Kühl: I think what I was most excited about was that they saw the process rather than just the outcome. Our collections don’t begin with a mood board or a trend. They begin with materials, conversations, fittings, and countless small decisions. We’re a relatively small team, so everyone is involved in shaping the collection. Hopefully they’ll see that every garment is the result of care, patience, and iteration. If I’m nervous about anything, it’s probably that the process can look slower or less spectacular than people expect. But that’s also exactly the point. We believe good products take time. SM: Each of you balances a strong aesthetic signature with a need to scale commercially. Where do you personally draw the line between staying true to your original vision and building a business that can grow internationally?  FBK: For me, growth should never come at the expense of identity. I’d rather build something that grows steadily over many years than expand quickly and lose what makes the brand distinctive. We’ve always tried to create products people will wear for a long time rather than for a single season. If we stay focused on quality, materials, and consistency, I actually think those values become an advantage internationally rather than a limitation. The challenge isn’t changing the vision; it’s finding better ways to communicate it and make it visible to more people.  SM: Sustainability and circularity show up differently across your practices, from deadstock and durability to reconstructed vintage, to limited runs, to archival referencing. What do you think about the tension between responsible production and the pressure to keep producing more?  FBK: I don’t think sustainability can be reduced to one material choice or one initiative. For us it’s about creating fewer, better products that remain relevant over time. Fashion will always involve making new things, so the question becomes whether those products genuinely deserve to exist. We try to make garments that people return to season after season, rather than replacing after a few months. Durability, both physically and aesthetically, is probably the most sustainable thing we can contribute. Of course there’s always pressure to produce more, introduce more styles and move faster. We try to resist that where we can. We’d rather refine than constantly reinvent. SM: If you win, the prize includes mentoring in sales, production, PR, and business development. Which of those areas do you most need help with right now, and why?  FBK: Probably business development. We’re confident in our creative direction, but we’re entering a stage where the biggest challenge isn’t designing the collection; it’s building the right structure around it. How do we grow internationally without compromising the values we’ve built the brand on? How do we make smart decisions about distribution, partnerships, and long-term strategy? Having experienced people challenge our thinking and share their perspective would be incredibly valuable. SM: A look from your collection will sit in Magasin du Nord’s windows during Copenhagen Fashion Week, tying your work to over a century of Danish retail history. How does that legacy sit alongside the story you’re trying to tell with your own brand?  FBK: I like the idea that fashion exists in a longer continuum rather than only in the present moment. Magasin represents a long history of Danish craftsmanship, retail and culture, and I think our brand shares that respect for longevity. At the same time, we’re not interested in nostalgia. We want to build on that tradition while speaking to how people live today. If someone looks at the window and sees clothing that feels contemporary but also timeless, something they can imagine wearing for many years, that would feel like a meaningful connection between the two. images courtesy Berner Kühl photography Oscar Meyer and Kasper Søholm

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An Interview with Oscar Jardorf: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominee 2026

An Interview with Oscar Jardorf: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominee 2026 O. FILES stood among the nominees for the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2026. For the first time, the winner was announced at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27, underscoring the Prize’s support for emerging Danish designers and their international recognition. To honour Magasin du Nord’s legacy, the jury observed the label’s creative process during a live studio session in April. Oscar Jardorf shared with us his aim to create a clear, meaningful link between clothing and the person wearing it.   Sandra Myhrberg: The new format puts the jury inside your studio for a live working session on April 9th, not just reviewing a finished collection. What are you most nervous or excited about them seeing up close?  Oscar Jardorf: Compared to showcasing a finished collection, it was both interesting and a great exercise to have to present and convey raw ideas from the midst of an idea-/conceptual phase to an audience with such extensive experience. A lot of ideas normally just float around and rarely materialise in an easily presentable form before a relatively late point in the process; however, we tried to really condense and concretise some of the concepts and tenets behind the upcoming collection for the jury’s careful review. SM: Each of you balances a strong aesthetic signature with a need to scale commercially. Where do you personally draw the line between staying true to your original vision and building a business that can grow internationally?  OJ: At O. FILES, the vision is principal to everything, and it’s a vital part of our proposition to the consumer. We don’t want to compromise and let the foundation on which the brand was built deteriorate, primarily because said foundation is the thing that sets us apart. In terms of international commercial growth, such an approach may be somewhat troublesome in the fast-paced, complex environment of the fashion industry, yet we genuinely believe it’s the best and most optimal long-term strategy and that the users will ultimately cherish a non-diluted version of the brand. As also emphasized during our meeting with the jury, for guarding the vision, knowing exactly what not to do is a key capacity for us. SM: Sustainability and circularity show up differently across your practices, from deadstock and durability to reconstructed vintage, to limited runs, to archival referencing. What do you think about the tension between responsible production and the pressure to keep producing more?  OJ: This is somewhat of a paradox, so there are multiple perspectives needed for answering this question. Up close, we believe and thus create items that are intended to transcend the singular season, things that are distinctively purposeful and generally have a high utility value in the long run. If we simply wanted to scale and sell more at a consistently rapid rate, the character of our designs and fabric choices would be vastly different. As such, our configuration comes with an intrinsic limitation for mindless production. On the other hand, in the bigger picture, we want more people to choose products with a proposition similar to the one described above, whether from O. FILES or from other mindful brands like our co-finalists for the prize. This implies that, consequently, someone has to produce more; it just has to be someone with the right approach. SM: If you win, the prize includes mentoring in sales, production, PR, and business development. Which of those areas do you most need help with right now, and why?  OJ: To be honest, we would gladly welcome mentoring in each of the areas. We are always open to listening and learning how to further develop the operation from someone with more extensive experience, especially if the respective mentor can integrate the principles of our vision in the mentoring. SM: A look from your collection will sit in Magasin du Nord’s windows during Copenhagen Fashion Week, tying your work to over a century of Danish retail history. How does that legacy sit alongside the story you’re trying to tell with your own brand?  OJ: The story of Magasin du Nord is one of retail mastery. To us, it’s inspiring from many different facets, ranging from the capacity for sustained cultural relevance to exceptional general business acumen within the retail space. It shows how a strong identity can remain relevant across generations.   images courtesy O. FILES photography Paw Lysemose

Fashion Articles

An Interview with Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominees 2026

An Interview with Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominees 2026 BONNETJE stood among the nominees for the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2026. For the first time, the winner was announced at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27, underscoring the Prize’s support for emerging Danish designers and their international recognition. To honour Magasin du Nord’s legacy, the jury observed the label’s creative process during a live studio session in April. Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek shared their ideas about the new circular fashion movement with us. Sandra Myhrberg: The new format puts the jury inside your studio for a live working session on April 9th, not just reviewing a finished collection. What are you most nervous or excited about them seeing up close?  Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek: We were actually most excited that the jury got to experience the process rather than only seeing the finished outcome. Bonnetje has always been built around making, experimenting, and responding to what already exists, so the studio is where our creative work really takes shape. It’s not a linear process — it involves countless fittings, conversations, unexpected decisions and constant refinement. What made us most nervous wasn’t the creative work itself — we have a lot of confidence in that. It was whether our way of working could be seen as something that can scale, be produced and succeed commercially without losing what makes Bonnetje, Bonnetje. When you work with reconstructed garments and an unconventional production model, questions around scalability, production, and sales naturally arise. That was the part we were most excited to discuss and to show that we’ve been thinking carefully about.  SM: Each of you balances a strong aesthetic signature with a need to scale commercially. Where do you personally draw the line between staying true to your original vision and building a business that can grow internationally?  AM & YMR: For us, growth should never mean designing differently just to reach a bigger audience. The identity of Bonnetje comes from working with tailoring, existing garments, and a certain playfulness, and that’s something we don’t see as negotiable. The challenge is finding ways to scale the system rather than changing the creative vision. That means improving production, developing partnerships, and becoming more efficient while keeping the same design philosophy. We’d rather grow a little slower than lose the reason people connected with the brand in the first place. SM: Sustainability and circularity show up differently across your practices, from deadstock and durability to reconstructed vintage, to limited runs, to archival referencing. How do you think about the tension between responsible production and the pressure to keep producing more?  AM & YMR: It’s a tension we think about constantly. Fashion is built around newness, but our starting point has always been that there’s already an enormous amount of value in what exists. Working with vintage garments and existing materials isn’t just an aesthetic choice for us; it’s a design methodology. At the same time, we’re building a business, so we also have to be realistic about production and demand. We don’t believe sustainability is about claiming to have all the answers. It’s about making thoughtful decisions every day, producing with intention, creating pieces that people want to wear for a long time, and continuing to challenge ourselves to find better ways of working as we grow. SM: If you win, the prize includes mentoring in sales, production, PR, and business development. Which of those areas do you most need help with right now, and why?  AM & YMR: Production, sale, and business development would probably have the biggest impact for us right now. Although many of our garments are unique and partially upcycled, we’ve spent the last few years developing systems that allow us to grade, reproduce, and produce our styles in a structured way. Proving that this kind of practice can be scalable has always been important to us. What we would value most now is guidance on how to take those systems to the next level — growing internationally, strengthening production, and building a business that stays true to our way of working.   SM: A look from your collection will sit in Magasin du Nord’s windows during Copenhagen Fashion  Week, tying your work to over a century of Danish retail history. How does that legacy sit alongside the story you’re trying to tell with your own brand?  AM & YMR: We like the contrast. Bonnetje is rooted in rethinking existing garments and questioning traditional ideas of fashion, while Magasin represents a long-standing retail institution. Bringing those two worlds together feels like a reminder that fashion is always evolving. There’s also something symbolic about presenting garments that are built from existing pieces in a space associated with heritage and craftsmanship. We see it as a conversation between past and present rather than a contradiction. Our work is about giving garments another life, and in a way that also reflects the idea of heritage — not as something fixed, but as something that keeps being reinterpreted. images courtesy Bonnetje photography Nynne Henriksen and Kresten Julian Sommer

Fashion Articles

An Interview with Caroline Bille Brahe: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominee 2026

An Interview with Caroline Bille Brahe: Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize Nominee 2026 CARO EDITIONS stood among the nominees for the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2026. For the first time, the winner was announced at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27, underscoring the Prize’s support for emerging Danish designers and their international recognition. To honour Magasin du Nord’s legacy, the jury observed the label’s creative process during a live studio session in April. Caroline Bille Brahe shared with us how she achieves a balance between standout design and wearability. Sandra Myhrberg: The new format puts the jury inside your studio for a live working session on April 9th, not just reviewing a finished collection. What are you most nervous or excited about them seeing up close?   Caroline Bille Brahe: I’m excited for them to experience the atmosphere of the studio. So much of Caro Editions happens through conversation, fittings, small adjustments, and intuition. It isn’t a polished process, and I think that’s the beauty of it. I hope they leave with a sense of the care and craftsmanship behind every piece.  SM: Each of you balances a strong aesthetic signature with a need to scale commercially. Where do you personally draw the line between staying true to your original vision and building a business that can grow internationally?   CBB: For me, growth should never come at the expense of identity. I believe you can build a business by becoming more yourself, not less. We think carefully about how we grow, making sure every new category and every decision still feels unmistakably Caro Editions. I want the brand to evolve organically and remain personal, even as it reaches more people. SM: Sustainability and circularity show up differently across your practices, from deadstock and durability to reconstructed vintage, to limited runs, to archival referencing. How do you think about the tension between responsible production and the pressure to keep producing more?   CBB: I don’t think more is always better. I believe in creating clothes that people truly connect with and want to keep for many years. Working with deadstock fabrics, reimagining vintage pieces, and producing in small quantities naturally encourages a more thoughtful pace. Growth is important, but it has to happen responsibly and without compromising the values the brand is built on.  SM: If you win, the prize includes mentoring in sales, production, PR, and business development. Which of those areas do you most need help with right now, and why?   CBB: Business development would be incredibly valuable. We have built a strong creative foundation, and now the exciting challenge is scaling the company in a thoughtful way while protecting the spirit of the brand. Learning from people who have done that before would be invaluable at this stage.  SM: A look from your collection will sit in Magasin du Nord’s windows during Copenhagen Fashion  Week, tying your work to over a century of Danish retail history. How does that legacy sit alongside the story you’re trying to tell with your own brand?  CBB: I love the idea of placing a young brand like Caro Editions within that history. While our expression feels contemporary and personal, we share a belief in quality, craftsmanship, and clothes that have lasting value. Being part of that conversation feels both special and inspiring. images courtesy Caro Editions photography Nikolaj Møller

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