ODALISQUE MAGAZINE INTERVIEWS Susan Szatmáry
ODALISQUE MAGAZINE INTERVIEWS Susan Szatmáry text Jahwanna Berglund Known for her quietly luxurious handbags, Susan Szatmáry is expanding her world. With her first footwear collection, she translates the architectural lines, thoughtful detailing and enduring quality that define her bags into a new form — one designed to move with the woman who wears it, not just for a season, but as a lasting wardrobe staple. Images courtesy of Susan Szatmáry You’ve long been celebrated for your elegant handbags and leather goods. What was the moment or inspiration that made you decide it was time to step into footwear? I launched Susan Szatmáry at the end of 2018, starting with bags since I knew how expensive and complicated it is to make shoes with the stock and sizing. Bags are much easier to place and prototype. Things went slowly and organically, and now we have made a name. Having previously designed both footwear and bags for other brands, Szatmáry adds, “I can design shoes with my eyes closed.” It might seem risky to introduce something new in uncertain times, but this expansion was always part of my vision. After years working for houses such as Alexander McQueen (under Alexander Mcqueen himself), Celine, and Rabanne, I wanted to build a world of my own. After growing organically and really getting to know our clients, it felt natural to take the next step. I wanted to bring the same lines, accessories, and colours from the bags into the footwear like it used to be a long time ago. Many of our clients have asked for matching shoes and bags, so I felt there was a true need in the market. Designing shoes brings a new set of challenges. Which part of the footwear process (fit, materials, prototype, scale) surprised you most, and how did you overcome it? Our message has always been less logo, more quality and functionality, and we apply that same philosophy to our shoes. With footwear, we’ve added comfort and collaborated with the best factories with over 60 years of experience which allowed us to easily balance design and cost. For some models, we’ve even used stock leather from the factories that was leftover from previous collections to create something beautiful and sustainable, without unnecessary waste. Your handbags are known for understated luxury and timelessness. How do you carry those same brand values into your new footwear collection, while allowing it to have its own identity? We always work with slow design, avoiding trends. For the shoes, comfort and practicality are essential, just like with our bags. We bring the same design codes, the same accessories, and the same mindset. You’ve worked on leather goods and accessories at major houses and even helped define the leather standard at Byredo and Toteme. How has that experience informed your approach to shoes, and what lessons did you bring (or unlearn)? Price sensitivity is an important subject today. You can’t burn your entire budget on prototypes. It’s better to have a clear vision from the start and focus on the final product rather than spending time and money on unnecessary developments. That’s something I’ve learned through experience. (Susan Szatmáry shoes range from €490 to €650.) Paola and the patterncutter Piero In your launch collection, you emphasize “classic, comfort, and cost-efficiency.” How do you personally draw the line between artistry, wearability, and accessibility when designing a piece? It’s simple. When I design, I always ask myself: Would I wear it? Do I love it? I never create something without imagining myself carrying or wearing it, even though I would love to wear every single piece in our collection. Looking ahead, what’s your dream pairing — a bag and shoe combo you haven’t made yet, and why does it excite you? When I design shoes, I go old-school. I do deep research in the library and study what our customers are wearing. Since they often ask for matching pieces, it makes complete sense. For me, designing a shoe line that can be paired with our bags without focusing on super-high heels is exciting. I love the idea of a woman wearing our loafers together with the Mini Palais Royal, or the Temple Clutch with the Pont de Sully Décolleté for example. The goal is to create timeless combinations that last for years, not just a single season. www.susanszatmary.com
