Author name: Mauri Camelbeke

Femme Fatale: Kristoffer Kongshaug and Empowerment Through Design in Forza Collective AW26 text by Ella Nelson Copenhagen-born and -based brand Forza Collective operates at the intersection of couture and ready-to-wear and is instantly recognizable for its beautifully balanced sharp tailoring and cocktail elegance. Rooted in the juxtaposition of structure and softness, the AW26 collection was no exception. Set within an industrial concrete space and featuring camp collars, impeccable cutouts, fluid draping, and the image of a powerful woman, the collection emerged as classy and colorful—a love letter to female empowerment. Odalisque had the pleasure of sitting down with Kristoffer Kongshaug, Forza Collective’s founder and creative director, to discuss craftsmanship, his signature design elements, and the inspiration behind the AW26 collection. art direction Alexis Markimage courtesy Kristoffer Li ‘Forza’ is an Italian word that translates to strength, force, or power. What does the word mean to you personally, and how does it shape the work you do? I like it because of the state of mind it reflects, either to my work approach or everyday life. Please tell us about how the AW26 collection came to life. What inspired it, what did the creative process look like, and how does the showcase reflect those ideas? It was a combination of an image of my aunt from when I was only a toddler. She worked for Air France and traveled back and forth from Paris to Denmark. She was the first woman in my life to dress up, and that image has stuck with me ever since. I also had baroque images of collars and layers of collars which went into the styling and some of the gowns. Which key elements or collaborators played a role in shaping the AW26 collection? The AW26 collection features pleated high-neck collars with ruffles in mesh, finished with raw edges, a technique also applied to skirts. Shirts showcase ascot collars and extended cuffs, while coats and shirts are designed with color-block collars and cocoon sleeves. Tonal or color-block strips of double-face wool and cotton poplin, reinforced with boning, are a recurring styling detail, emphasizing the neck and the structural construction of the garments. Circular cutouts on dresses and tops highlight architectural lines and create a sensual silhouette with exposed backs. Signature pipe pleating appears on day dresses, complemented by deconstructed bra cups on cocktail dresses. Draped suit pants evoke the feel of layered skirts, adding movement and dimension to the overall look. Are there any specific pieces, details, or ideas you’d like to highlight from this collection? The opening look. A deconstructed blazer in grey wool with a matching skirt, styled with a bright red top with a pleated baroque collar with ruffles in mesh. A mid length dress in black, lightweight crepe with waistline focus, featuring an open back with a flared cape that is one of main details in many of the looks throughout the collection. The red jacket in double face wool, styled with a signature flare pant and shirt, and a tonal strip of double face wool with boning around the neck that is a continuous styling detail in the collection. The closing look in deep sky blue. A peplum gown with a pleated twisted skirt that has a triangle focus towards the hem, and has a matching pleated baroque collar with ruffles. What challenges did you face in creating the collection, and what are you most proud of? The challenge season after season is that it is expected that you deliver better and bigger from the previous season, and not necessarily with more resources or a bigger team. Impact is a core value for FORZA—the creation of something that alters presence and leaves a lasting impression rather than existing solely for display. How does this translate into your designs, this collection in particular, and the brand’s creative expression more broadly? This comes down to the show pieces and styling. There will always be pieces that will be THE memory of that particular season, in this case – the collars styled with suits, and the pink and blue gown. It is all a part of the story telling and helps push the brand forward aesthetically. What do you hope audiences feel or walk away with after experiencing the AW26 showcase? The craftmanship. Everything is handmade at our atelier in Copenhagen, and I really hope that shows in the garments. How does this collection build on and strengthen the ongoing narrative of FORZA? The collections are always built with female empowerment in mind, a femme fatale if you will, and power dressing. During your career, you’ve lived and worked in both Paris and New York. What impact did these international experiences have on you as a creative, and how have they shaped your designs and your work at FORZA? This means everything to me. The craftsmanship from Paris and the commercial touch from New York are building stones for Forza. I would never be able to communicate what I want without those experiences. Craftsmanship is my way of communicating with the customer and our community, with me being present to speak to it. It is a silenced dialogue. Looking ahead, what’s next for FORZA? I am very excited for our upcoming launch of our new website and e-commerce which is something we have spent a long time on, and then of course our showroom in Paris in March. I had a lot of positive feedback from buyers which is always exciting!