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How Fashion Brands are Capitalizing on the Normcore Hype – and What it Means for the Industry text Emil Bjornius The term “normcore” is derived from “normal” and “hardcore,” and it came to denote a fashion trend characterized by average-looking, unbranded, and often unisex apparel some years ago. Think plain tees, dad jeans, and baseball caps. At its core, normcore is about embracing sameness rather than striving for differentiation – but how is this phenomenon impacting the fashion industry? Fashion is cyclical, constantly in flux as trends emerge, fade, and resurface. One of the more surprising shifts in the last decade has been the rise of “normcore,” a movement that eschews conspicuous consumption and overtly branded apparel in favour of unpretentious, average-looking clothing. However, it’s no longer just about “dressing ordinary”: It’s about the message behind it and the art of intentional simplicity. You may think of it as a reaction to overconsumption, extravagance and flamboyance, not seldom associated with the fashion industry. Major fashion brands are quickly catching on and, in turn, capitalizing on it. And this fall, many suggest that normcore will return in grand style. Initially, the normcore movement may have appeared antithetical to high-end fashion brands, which thrived on exclusivity and bold, unique designs. But as the trend gained traction, fashion brands saw an opportunity. Brands like Gucci, Balenciaga, and Calvin Klein have released lines that, at a glance, seem plain or commonplace. Still, they often carry subtle branding or high-quality materials that set them apart. Celebrities known for their fashion-forward styles have been spotted donning normcore staples, whether Kanye West in a plain sweatshirt, Kendall Jenner in vintage jeans or Leo Dicaprio in a washed-out hoodie. Brands capitalize on these moments, marketing their ‘plain’ pieces as must-haves. So, how will normcore affect the fashion industry? In the short term, brands will have to be able to distinguish between marketing their normcore items as exceptional and ‘ordinary.’ It requires a nuanced approach that sells an idea or a feeling more than the item itself. With a focus on essential pieces, brands might streamline their supply chains. Less complexity in designs could mean easier production processes and potentially reduced costs. In the long term, however, the normcore movement, emphasizing timeless basics, aligns well with the push towards sustainable fashion. Consumers might keep their pieces longer, leading to decreased turnover and waste. As more people invest in quality basics, the appeal of fast fashion – notorious for its quickly changing styles – might diminish. Also, the unisex nature of normcore fashion promotes a more gender-neutral approach to fashion. This could lead to more inclusive sizing and designs in the long run. While seemingly celebrating the mundane, Normcore has profound implications for the fashion industry. It challenges brands to rethink their strategies, encourages sustainability, and promotes inclusivity. And maybe this is a shift that will last. Gen Z is the first generation to grow up with the internet, smartphones, and social media as pervasive elements of daily life. The endless feed of online influencers and celebrities touting distinct personal styles can create a sense of fatigue. Normcore can very well be seen as a counter-movement.

RIMOWA x Tiffany & Co text Fashion Tales When two icons of design and craftsmanship come together, the result is nothing short of extraordinary. RIMOWA, the master of refined travel essentials, and Tiffany & Co., the epitome of timeless elegance, have collaborated to create a collection that redefines the art of travel. RIMOWA collaborates with Tiffany & Co. To unveil one-of-a-kind travel companions to carry one’s most precious items. On September 19th, 2023, RIMOWA, a pioneer in refined travel since 1898, has collaborated with Tiffany & Co. to redefine travel boundaries. The collection includes a Jewelry Case, Rock Cut Cabin suitcase, and Jewelry Personal. The Jewelry Case features a ‘Rock Cut’ design mirroring Tiffany’s diamond facets, crafted in Germany with subtle ‘T’ motifs. It comes in Tiffany Blue® with three trays for jewelry storage, including rings, necklaces, and bracelets. The Rock Cut Cabin suitcase incorporates the ‘Rock Cut’ design, with Tiffany Blue® accents on handles, luggage tag, and wheels. The Jewelry Personal case is entirely Tiffany Blue® inside, offering six compartments for precious items, with logos on the exterior. The collaboration symbolizes craftsmanship and engineering mastery, as per RIMOWA’s CEO, Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert, and Tiffany & Co.’s EVP, Alexandre Arnault.

Vegabond Shoemakers Drops New Atelier Collection text Fashion Tales In September, Vagabond Shoemakers release their premium capsule collection, Atelier by Vagabond, featuring classic elevated pieces with an edge. Created for long-term purpose, Atelier by Vagabond adds contemporary elements to the everyday wardrobe and celebrates “slow luxury” with quality and craftsmanship at its core. Swedish fashion brand Vagabond Shoemakers is back with a new Atelier collection this autumn, offering pieces that balance longstanding design with new influences. Mixing preppy with edgy, the collection reworks classic styles such as loafers, riding and pull-on boots, transforming them with a relaxed and cool elegance. With carefully selected materials, prefabricated outsoles and full leather lining, the premium collection stands for exceptional quality and well-thought-out design – the perfect investment for a conscious consumer. “Our aim is to create investment pieces that can stand the test of time, both in quality and aesthetic. The Atelier collection is all about slow luxury, valuing long-term use and beyond-season thinking. By working with premium materials and by using smart design and refined details, the collection is the perfect mix between edgy expression and core go- to alternatives.” Marie Nilsson Peterzén, Co-founder and Creative Director of Vagabond Shoemakers says. The collection consists of 16 pieces, including penny loafers, riding boots and over-shoulder bags. Biker boot Nour is the everyday go-to style, coming both in pull-up and harness versions, and key style Samira is the sharp, pointy-toed style with asymmetric cuts available as mid-high and ankle boots. Shoulder bag Hanoi is the ultimate signature piece, with its full leather lining, hardware details and polished leather. The colours of the collection range from black and cognac to darker browns, and a toned-down amber-green accent. Details include contrast seams, sharp toes, asymmetric cuts, raw contrast edges and materials such as glossy leather and oily nubuck.

A Tale of Timeless Elegance: BITE Studios Spring Summer 2024 Collection text Astrid Birnbaum Once again, BITE Studios, the illustrious Swedish luxury womenswear brand, has masterfully harnessed the essence of minimalist design in their much-anticipated Spring Summer 2024 collection. The grand revelation unfolded against the enchanting backdrop of the GSA Gallery, nestled on the outskirts of Stockholm. A symphony of style and sophistication graced this event accompanied by the melodies of pianist Martin Hederos. The range presents a captivating array of signature pieces, including the captivating Prato Dress, the Petal Coat, the ethereal Petal Belts, and the mesmerizing Marea Ruche Dress. BITE Studios’ latest offering transcends the transient nature of fashion, embracing a refined realm of luxury defined by subtlety and an unwavering commitment to detail. Sustainability takes center stage, reaffirming the brand’s steadfast belief that fashion should be an enduring voyage, extending well beyond the confines of a single season. Seamlessly melding elements of the past and present, this collection elegantly interlaces timeless classics from their archives with fresh, graceful designs, setting an unprecedented benchmark in the realm of high fashion. In a resounding testament to their unwavering commitment to environmental stewardship, an astounding 98.8% of the materials featured in this collection proudly bear the seal of responsibility, boasting certified organic origins and a gentle ecological footprint.

Leia Sfez Presents The Oblist: A World of Unique Treasures text Astrid Birnbaum In the thrilling realm of interior design, Leia Sfez takes us on a journey that embodies timelessness, individuality, and a sustainable approach to consumption. The Oblist is a website that gathers over 130 brands and artists from around the world that translates into a universe of unique, timeless vintage items that are irresistibly enticing. The Oblist distinguishes itself through a carefully curated collection of items intended to be our lifelong companions. It is within these virtual walls that you will discover a sanctuary for embracing individuality while making conscientious and sustainable choices in your consumption patterns. The Oblist is the fruit of a passionate collaboration between Leia Sfez and her husband, who have chosen tomeld their creative and marketing talents to forge this exceptional platform. Infused with a profound appreciation for the skills of budding designers and artists, Leia Sfez aspires to provide a distinctive space where patrons can themselves in items unavailable elsewhere. However, The Oblist transcends mere retail; it is a voyage through time and culture, a means to engage with fashion spaces that carry a rich historical tapestry while expressing your distinct identity. Embark on a journey through The Oblist and uncover the treasures awaiting to accompany you through the diverse chapters of life.

The Time Between Us by Jason Martin text Natalia Muntean “It’s always about finding the balance between capturing the moment in a still painting, while also showing the movement and boldness,” says British artist Jason Martin.  The Time Between Us is an exhibition bringing together pieces from years ago and the artist’s current work, as an ongoing search to expand a personalised vocabulary that stretches 23 years. Golden accents, shimmering greens or profound, oily hues, all blend to show Martin’s creative universe and act as an exploration of the tension between the ephemeral and the eternal. The paintings represent an attempt to capture moments that encompass the duality of being fleeting but also lasting forever, like trapping a moment into forever. As if Martin has managed to imprison time within his canvas. Through his work, the artist aims to transmit an eternal energy that can have an impact on a wider audience. “I make works for the now, the contemporary cycle we all inhabit but as important for the unborn,” concludes the artist.After a 12-year absence, Jason Martin returned to Stockholm with The Time Between Us, a solo exhibition on display at Wetterling Gallery until the 30th of September.Jason Martin was born in 1970 in Jersey, Channel Islands. He holds a BA from Goldsmiths University and is well known for his monochromatic abstract paintings. Portrait: Mustafa Hulusi  

Almost Naked Athletics text Fashion Tales The new Brand Almost Naked Athletics is a dedication to all the strong, beautiful women that inspire us; Naked, raw, vulnerable. Without filters and 100 percent alive. We are in love with your glow, your power, your strength, your softness and your intelligence. Together we are crazily courageous and fantastic. Far from being just another sports brand, we provide high energy lifestyle garments. Almost Naked Athletics aim for the crossing of swimwear and gymwear, injected with sculpted tailoring. We are a sportswear couture-brand, if you will. Based in both classical tailoring and design, creator and founder Astrid Olsson puts high end fashion care and tailoring into every piece of Almost Naked Athletics clothing. All with the one true minimalistic aim – the female body in all its strength and all its perfection. Astrid Olsson is an awarded fashion designer and tailor, and a trained pattern maker. She is best known as one of the creators behind the avant-garde fashion brand Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair and its sculptural pieces, for which she was awarded Elle Designer of the Year 2009 and Italian Vogue Newcomer of the Year 2011. She is passionate about her garments giving people energy and courage. With Almost Naked Athletics Astrid is transferring female power, gain and effort into body sculpting dresses and minimal bikinis. A celebration of a life reflecting her own, of fitness, yoga and traveling. Her background as a professional dancer and as a costume maker for opera houses and theaters guarantees clothing meant for movement. ”The strive behind Almost Naked Athletics is that we actually do not need that much clothing and fashion to shine. And the whole project becomes a celebration of being a woman. The beauty, softness, curves and femininity but also the strength, the determination and the strive you find in a woman, in the female body, in her workouts and in life.” Our main goal is to create beautiful pieces that will lead a long life in your wardrobe. We only use high quality fabrics and the highest level of craftsmanship throughout the whole production chain, our core belief that high quality leads to lower consumption in the long run. Almost Naked Athletics, designed in Sweden, made in Portugal

Calvin Klein Fall 2023 Campaign Includes All of Our Favorite Tracks text Yasmine M Calvin Klein introduces its Fall 2023 campaign starring Euphoria’s Alexa Demie, artist Kid Cudi, and Blackpink’s JENNIE  In their debut campaign for the brand, actor Alexa Demie and artist Kid Cudi join the classic Calvin Klein ambassadors in the new fall campaign. Standing out, we get introduced to Alexa Demie (most known as ‘Maddy’ from HBO show Euphoria), with an inspiring and bold video with the classic song Obsession by Animotion – all dressed in new Calvin Klein Underwear. Not to mention, Kendall Jenner is back once again, with a simple yet powerful video commercial with all of ours favorite song Don’t You (Forget About Me) by Simple Minds, seen below. Another familiar Calvin Klein face this fall is Blackpinks JENNIE, where we this time around get to see her confidence in a mix of casual and refined Underwear and Jeans looks – which is a huge trend for this fall. The new campaign is shot by duo Inez & Vinoodh, and captures all the ambassadors unique sensuality, confidence and playfulness. The press release states that the collections reinforce Calvin Klein’s design codes of minimal, modern and sensual. Across Underwear, Jeans and apparel, this season presents elevated pieces that are essential to every wardrobe, for every lifestyle. Classic silhouettes are updated with new fabrics and refreshed fits, and are complemented by the latest Calvin Klein jewelry and eyewear. The result is an expression of effortless style connected to the way we live our lives today. Mix and match how you like it.  The Fall 2023 campaign and collection is now available at calvinklein.com. 

Weekday’s THE CLASS OF NOT GIVING A F*CK Campaign text Fashion Tales Clothing brand Weekday announced its newest campaign for Autumn/ Winter 2023, THE CLASS OF NOT GIVING A FUCK, on July 19. This campaign emphasizes marching to the beat of your own drum and dressing and acting the way you want. Customers of the off-beat collection inspire others to be themselves in their own respective communities. The press shoot for the collection consists of Nona the Furry, Santana SexMachine the Drag Queen, Elsa the Larper and Viggo, the Metalhead as models. All of them chose their own clothes to wear in the shoot. Join THE CLASS OF NOT GIVING A F*CK and be unapologetically yourself.

‘Seven Rooms and a Garden’ Explores Rashid Johnson’s Conversational Works text Josie McNeill The Moderna Museet’s upcoming exhibition, ‘Seven Rooms and a Garden,’ explores the conversational yet confrontational works of artist and filmmaker Rashid Johnson. ‘Seven Rooms and a Garden’ is set to be open from September 30, 2023 to September 8, 2024. The exhibit, as indicated by its name, will consist of rooms and a garden that explore the artist’s personal, political, and historical relationships through art. Johnson is an artist from Chicago known for drawing from his own biography, as well as historical events, to produce photographs, paintings, film, performances, and sculptures that comment on the state of being. Johnson, a conceptual post-Black artist, is best known for his “Anxious Men” series in which he etched out faces of Black people in black soap and wax on tile.