Fashion Articles

Odalisque Magazine Interviews Leandra Medine Cohen & Linn Frisinger: Integrated Parts — Swedish Stockings text Jahwanna Berglund images courtesy of Swedish Stockings When Swedish Stockings, the pioneering sustainable hosiery brand joined creative forces with writer and tastemaker Leandra Medine Cohen, the result was more than just a capsule of tights. Integrated Parts is a celebration of personality, contradiction, and self-expression where playfulness meets purpose. Odalisque speaks with Swedish Stockings’ co-founder Linn Frisinger and Leandra Medine Cohen about their creative process, shared values, and the subtle power of the “small things” that shape how we dress. Leandra, you’ve described tights as the “outfit-maker.”What was the first idea or image that came to mind when you began designing this collection, and how did you want these pieces to make people feel when they put them on? LMC:We went back and forth on concepts. I created a moodboard and we spent a lot of time on emails and Zoom calls discussing what would make for the simultaneously most fantastical, but also practical tights. A lot of the ideas didn’t make sense ultimately I wanted to create studded waist pants on some of the tights! But I’m very happy with where we landed. What made this collaboration feel like the right fit, and how did both perspectives influence the design language in this collection? LF:Leandra is a true tastemaker, someone with a sharp point of view, a lot of character and a unique way of playing with fashion. She doesn’t follow the rules; she creates her own, and that aligns beautifully with our philosophy that fashion shouldn’t be too serious. As a fashion accessory brand, we believe in expression over perfection. Collaborating with her allowed us to stretch creatively, to be bolder and ultimately we couldn’t have wished for a better outcome. Her touch is evident in every detail. LMC:Swedish Stockings is one of the only tight brands I can think of that places a premium on image and creative direction while still delivering a luxury product. They balance classics on one hand and risky colors, finishes, and fabrications on the other. I’ve been wearing their tights for a long time. How did that duality reflect both of your personalities and creative processes? LF:That duality is central to both the campaign and who we are as a brand. It mirrors how we work: intentional, but with room for surprise and spontaneity. Leandra has an incredible instinct for balance between loud and elegant, between classic and unexpected and that came through strongly in this collaboration. It’s also a reflection of real life: none of us are just one thing. The collection embraces that fluidity, offering a piece for every version of yourself. What prompted the name Integrated Parts? LMC:Each pair reflects a different personality for a different look. The collection is about integrating the different parts of your style and making their common denominator you. Each pair in Integrated Parts feels like a character.Do you each have a personal favourite, and what does it say about your mood or style right now? LF:Right now, my favourite is Geri — both the silver and the red version. There’s something about the glossy texture that feels nostalgic and instantly elevates any outfit. The red Geri especially speaks to me at the moment: it’s vibrant, a little unexpected, and it pairs beautifully with my current colour obsession — brown. LMC:I think my most worn will be the Natasha, sheer white tights, which I can’t wait to wear styled under black tuxedo pants with black satin sandals on one hand, or with a camel mini skirt and casual t-shirt and black flats. Where did you pull inspiration from? Were there any specific eras, icons, or even your own personal style moments that you referenced? LMC:I revisited some of my favorite tights and thought, what could make these better? That’s how we ended up with super sheer white tights. The tiger print was actually inspired by an old photo of Chloë Sevigny from the late ’90s. My creative process is quite pragmatic, though I tend to think about what would make a piece work harder in an outfit. How do you both see the role of “small things,” like tights, in shaping how we dress and think about sustainability today? LF:Tights are often overlooked, yet they’re one of fashion’s most wasteful items, over eight billion pairs are discarded every year. In many ways, they’re the plastic straw of fashion: small, but with a big impact. With this collaboration, we wanted to show that you don’t have to choose between style and sustainability. Tights can completely transform a look adding personality, contrast, or polish. Especially in colder months, they become a key styling piece. LMC:Possibly because as minimalism has seeped so deeply into all of our wardrobes, tights are a low-stakes and low-risk way to make an impact. They can be the centerpiece of an outfit and that’s what makes them so powerful.   Finally, when you imagine someone wearing these tights, who do you see? LF:When I imagine someone wearing these tights, I see an energy that’s playful and fun with fashion, someone who’s not afraid to be daring and experiment. The spirit of Integrated Parts is all about confidence, creativity, and joy in self-expression. It’s for those who embrace their individuality and use fashion to tell their own story. LMC:Someone curious, open, and a little mischievous, the kind of person who enjoys finding humor in style. That’s the essence of this collection.

ROOM FOR THE LIFE – An Interview with Lan Krebs text Maya Avram stockings Swedish Stockings shoes Stylist’s Own jewellery Maria Nilsdotter Lan Krebs designs with his head in the clouds and strategises with his feet on the ground. Yes, he was inspired to become a designer from a young age, with romantic ideas about leaving his native Slovenia and going out into the world to make a big name for himself. But his path to the prestigious Swedish School of Textiles has been meticulously calculated, with Lan often making creative choices out of necessity and in response to challenges that, in the end, led him to where he says he was always meant to be.   Maya Avram: How did your journey into design start? Lan Krebs: I have always been interested in design, ever since I can remember. In primary school, I said I would be a fashion designer one day. My father was a bit terrified, but my mother said I should do what makes me happy. I was too late to apply for the Swedish School of Textiles, but everything happens for a reason, and I went there on Erasmus… After three months, they offered me a full-time study position, so I stayed. MA: What made you want to specialise in knitwear? LK: During my bachelor’s programme, I took a knitwear class, where the teacher introduced us to a guy who was selling old hand-knitting machines and yarns. That was when I knew I wanted to be a knitwear designer. I bought a knitting machine from him and some yarn, and started my journey. I’m very passionate about this practice because it holds unlimited possibilities. Knitting splits into circular knitting and flatbed knitting. When I started studying at the Swedish School of Textiles, my idea was to do flatbed, but we had limited access to those machines, which was very frustrating, so I decided not to go in that direction. I wanted to be free with my time, with materials, so I asked the lab technicians which machine is the most available one, and does not require their help to operate. I wanted to handle the machine on my own because it was the only way I could get more time on it, so that I could really hack it, even if it’s very manual. They said the circular single jersey machine is the only one that I can really handle by myself. It all came from that. bracelet ANI Jewels sneakers PUMA / Zalando bracelet Edblad stockings Swedish Stockingss heels Christian Louboutin MA: Sounds very responsive. LK: The machine itself is very simple, all I can knit with it is plain single jersey or striped — that’s it. No jacquard, nothing, just stripes in different variations. The technician was really happy I chose that machine because, according to him, “It doesn’t need to be complicated when it comes out of the machine. You can make it into so much more after.” Then I developed my material, and because I cannot do jacquard on that machine, I said, okay, let’s do print. This idea came very naturally, since the woven pieces are symmetrical and have this butterfly effect because they come out of the machine shaped like a tube. I didn’t want to cut this tube and do any additional sewing. I just wanted the tube to somehow fit the body, and the only way to do that was pleating, which makes the knit very elastic.  This is the process. Not so much “This is my inspiration, a tribute to my Slovenian heritage”, but a response to restrictions that we had, and wanting to get as much as I can out of the school’s facilities. Every part of my journey happened as it should have. It was a nice period of experimentation with different materials, of finding the techniques that drive me.  bracelet ANI Jewels stockings Swedish Stockings earring Maria Nilsdotter heels Christian Louboutin MA: If your creative practice came out of cold calculation, how does your creativity come into play? LK: This exploration process needs to be very intuitive. In my case, I don’t even do samples. The technicians in the print lab asked if I’d like to test colours, and I said no, it’s a waste of time. When dying fabric — it’s called space dying — I place wet fabric on a table, and I then start staining it with pigment. If I want the pigment to “bleed”, I add more water. It’s really hard to measure and control this process, making it impossible to achieve the same effect twice, so there is no reason to do samples. You just need to follow your gut and have a little bit of luck on your side. bracelet ANI Jewels ewellery Maria Nilsdotter jewellery Maria Nilsdotter MA: There seems to be a clear distinction between your design process, which is very intuitive, to your self-promotion, which is more strategic. LK: It’s key to getting more attention and having eyes on you. Social media is how you present yourself, how you build a name for yourself, and it’s something that a lot of students are afraid of. It takes time to create a post, and it takes time for your post to perform. I do social media for Fashion Week in Ljubljana, and I tested so many tricks to make a post work, to figure out why some posts work better than others. I’m applying that knowledge to my own profile. If you share your process, for example, people will engage with it. They will like it, they will comment on it, they will save it, and they will send it to someone else. I can show the final result, but the process is the part that really resonates with people and expands my reach. MA: How else are you innovating your process? LK: I’m using the burnout technique, which is toxic from a sustainability point of view. My garments are made of polyester for

Nicklas Skovgaard — Threads of Memory and Modernity text Ulrika Lindqvist Fresh from winning the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2025, Nicklas Skovgaard reflects on the journey that began with a child’s loom and a fascination for self-expression. His eponymous label, defined by sculptural silhouettes and emotional storytelling, continues to evolve from instinct and intimacy, blurring the line between nostalgia and now. In conversation with Odalisque Magazine, Skovgaard shares how character, contrast, and craftsmanship remain at the heart of his creative vision. Ulrika Lindqvist: Congratulations on winning the Wessel & Vett fashion prize, what are your initial feelings? Nicklas Skovgaard: Thank you so much. I feel deeply grateful, happy and humbled. Winning the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize feels like a full-circle moment – a recognition of years of work, curiosity, and persistence. It’s a very big milestone for the brand. More than anything, I feel very motivated – this prize feels like both an acknowledgment of what I’ve built so far and an incredible push toward what’s next.   UL: How has it been being a finalist? Nervous? exciting?   NS:  I’ve been both nervous and truly exciting. The Wessel & Vett Prize has always been close to my heart because it actually marked an early turning point for the brand back in 2022, when I was first nominated. Being a finalist again this year feels like revisiting that moment – but now with a much clearer sense of direction. The nerves were definitely there, but mostly because I care so deeply about what I do. It’s an honor to stand among such talented designers and feel that my voice has grown stronger since then.     UL:What initially drew you to the fashion industry?   NS:  My fascination with fashion began in childhood. I grew up on a small island in Denmark with no real access to fashion in the traditional sense – no glossy magazines or boutiques – but my mother had a strong sense of self. Watching her get dressed every day, shifting between different characters through clothing, really shaped my understanding of fashion as a form of self-expression. Later, films like Marie Antoinette and The September Issue deepened my fascination – they represented two opposite worlds, romanticism and realism, which I often use to describe my aesthetic today. Images courtesy of Wessel & Vett photography Nynne Henriksen/ moon  UL: What motivated you to start your brand?    NS: The brand began almost unintentionally – as an open-ended research project. In 2020, I discovered a small children’s loom in a thrift store and started weaving my own textiles. That process – of turning loose yarns into fabric – completely reignited my creative curiosity. I didn’t set out to start a fashion label, but the more I explored, the more I realized I was building something that felt deeply personal. The brand naturally grew from that place of experimentation, and today it’s still rooted in that same sense of curiosity and storytelling.   UL: What would you say are the three core values that define your brand?    NS: Character. Contrast. Silhouette. These three words really encapsulate my aesthetic. Every collection begins with the exploration of character – the emotional story behind the clothes. Contrasts are central to my process – between textures, emotions, and references. And finally, silhouette – how a garment shapes and responds to the body – that’s where the storytelling becomes tangible.    UL:What is your inspiration behind your designs and this collection in particular?   NS:  My inspiration often comes from a mix of personal memory, references and pop culture. My mother in the 1980’s – the ever-evolving eras of my life-long muse Madonna. These are som parts all inform the emotional landscape of my collections. My most recent collection was inspired by the private sphere of the bedroom – how the act of getting dressed, or even how we sleep, shapes the way we get dressed in the morning. I wanted to express that dreamlike feeling of intimacy, softness, and transformation. UL:Can you share some insights into your creative process?  NS: My process very often begins with the fabric or silhouette. I often start by exploring a textile or silhouette I don’t immediately like, then through research and experimentation, I try to transform it into something I love. Draping and constructing directly on the body are key parts of how I design. I also carry techniques and ideas forward from one season to the next, so the collections evolve like a living vocabulary – each new chapter building on the last.   UL:What are your core values as a designer?  NS: For me, it’s about authenticity, storytelling, wearability and emotional connection. I believe clothes have the power to evoke emotion, to connect people to memories and moments. And I always try to balance creativity with usability – even the most sculptural or nostalgic pieces should feel grounded in real life.    UL: Are there any particular projects or moments in your career that stand out as especially meaningful or memorable?   NS:  There are many, but one that stands out is my first runway show in 2023. It was a collaboration with performance artist Britt Liberg – a single performer surrounded by vintage mannequins in a performance-fashion-show about getting dressed and undressed. It blurred the line between fashion and performance art, and it felt incredibly true to my vision. Another highlight was our recent 7-hour long performance at Dover Street Market Paris during Fashion Week. Seeing the brand represented internationally – and witnessing people connect emotionally to the work – was a very special moment. UL: Looking ahead, what’s next for you? Are there any upcoming projects or goals you’re particularly excited about?   NS:  I’m very focused on thoughtful growth – scaling the brand while staying true to its creative foundation. With the Wessel & Vett Prize, I plan to invest in strengthening our international sales strategy and expanding our retail network in a thoughtful way. Creatively, I’ll continue to evolve the narrative side of my collections – exploring how storytelling and clothing can merge even further. 

ODALISQUE MAGAZINE INTERVIEWS Susan Szatmáry text Jahwanna Berglund Known for her quietly luxurious handbags, Susan Szatmáry is expanding her world. With her first footwear collection, she translates the architectural lines, thoughtful detailing and enduring quality that define her bags into a new form — one designed to move with the woman who wears it, not just for a season, but as a lasting wardrobe staple. Images courtesy of Susan Szatmáry You’ve long been celebrated for your elegant handbags and leather goods. What was the moment or inspiration that made you decide it was time to step into footwear?   I launched Susan Szatmáry at the end of 2018, starting with bags since I knew how expensive and complicated it is to make shoes with the stock and sizing. Bags are much easier to place and prototype. Things went slowly and organically, and now we have made a name.   Having previously designed both footwear and bags for other brands, Szatmáry adds, “I can design shoes with my eyes closed.”   It might seem risky to introduce something new in uncertain times, but this expansion was always part of my vision. After years working for houses such as Alexander McQueen (under Alexander Mcqueen himself), Celine, and Rabanne, I wanted to build a world of my own. After growing organically and really getting to know our clients, it felt natural to take the next step. I wanted to bring the same lines, accessories, and colours from the bags into the footwear like it used to be a long time ago. Many of our clients have asked for matching shoes and bags, so I felt there was a true need in the market. Designing shoes brings a new set of challenges. Which part of the footwear process (fit, materials, prototype, scale) surprised you most, and how did you overcome it?   Our message has always been less logo, more quality and functionality, and we apply that same philosophy to our shoes. With footwear, we’ve added comfort and collaborated with the best factories with over 60 years of experience which allowed us to easily balance design and cost.   For some models, we’ve even used stock leather from the factories that was leftover from previous collections to create something beautiful and sustainable, without unnecessary waste.   Your handbags are known for understated luxury and timelessness. How do you carry those same brand values into your new footwear collection, while allowing it to have its own identity?   We always work with slow design, avoiding trends. For the shoes, comfort and practicality are essential, just like with our bags. We bring the same design codes, the same accessories, and the same mindset. You’ve worked on leather goods and accessories at major houses and even helped define the leather standard at Byredo and Toteme. How has that experience informed your approach to shoes, and what lessons did you bring (or unlearn)?   Price sensitivity is an important subject today. You can’t burn your entire budget on prototypes. It’s better to have a clear vision from the start and focus on the final product rather than spending time and money on unnecessary developments. That’s something I’ve learned through experience.   (Susan Szatmáry shoes range from €490 to €650.) Paola and the patterncutter Piero In your launch collection, you emphasize “classic, comfort, and cost-efficiency.” How do you personally draw the line between artistry, wearability, and accessibility when designing a piece?   It’s simple. When I design, I always ask myself: Would I wear it? Do I love it? I never create something without imagining myself carrying or wearing it, even though I would love to wear every single piece in our collection. Looking ahead, what’s your dream pairing — a bag and shoe combo you haven’t made yet, and why does it excite you?   When I design shoes, I go old-school. I do deep research in the library and study what our customers are wearing. Since they often ask for matching pieces, it makes complete sense.   For me, designing a shoe line that can be paired with our bags without focusing on super-high heels is exciting. I love the idea of a woman wearing our loafers together with the Mini Palais Royal, or the Temple Clutch with the Pont de Sully Décolleté for example. The goal is to create timeless combinations that last for years, not just a single season. www.susanszatmary.com 

The Art of Comfort: Dr. Martens Expands the Zebzag Sole text Ulrika Lindqvist Images courtesy of Dr Martens After making waves this summer with the viral Zebzag Mule, Dr. Martens continues its exploration of comfort and edge by expanding the Zebzag sole into new silhouettes. Designed for effortless wear, the latest boots bring the brand’s signature craftsmanship and rebellious attitude into year-round versatility. “The Zebzag sole is purposefully engineered to meet the demands of modern life — blending exceptional craftsmanship, durability, and everyday comfort. These new silhouettes move with you, fitting seamlessly into any wardrobe while delivering the unmistakable Dr. Martens edge,” says Adam Meek, Chief Product Officer at Dr. Martens. Leading the launch is the Zebzag Laceless Boot, inspired by the brand’s iconic 1460 model and reimagined for ease. The laceless design maintains the classic lace-up aesthetic, crafted in relaxed black Wyoming leather that feels both lived-in and fresh straight out of the box. The look is completed with Dr. Martens’ signature black and yellow heel loop. Sitting slightly lower on the ankle, the Zebzag Rigger Boot draws from industrial silhouettes and redefines them for everyday comfort. Also a slip-on, the Rigger features double pull tabs, puritan stitch detailing, and comes in black Wyoming leather or water-resistant Milled Nubuck in seasonal tones. At the heart of both designs lies the Zebzag sole, built around a cushioned core that combines a lightweight EVA midsole with a durable PVC tread. Simple, ergonomic, and impressively light, it encapsulates the essence of Dr. Martens DNA — complete with a wider base, bold grooves, and the brand’s iconic yellow welt stitching. Inside, SoftWair insoles provide an added layer of calm and comfort. The Zebzag Laceless and Zebzag Rigger boots are available globally, read more at www.drmartens.com

SÉZANE: A Fall Chapter text Ulrika Lindqvist In Paris, la rentrée is more than just the return after summer, it’s a cultural ritual, a fresh start charged with quiet energy and creative possibility. For Sézane, each season begins with that same spark: a reawakening of imagination that threads itself through every piece of the collection. The Fall release carries forward what has become synonymous with the house: signature knitwear, vintage-inspired denim, and tailoring honed to effortless perfection. Classics like the Clyde and Bobby trench coats reappear in reimagined versions, while new silhouettes and prints step into the spotlight, adding a sense of discovery to the familiar. This season is not only a wardrobe but a story shaped by twelve years of voices, talents, and encounters that continue to define Sézane’s world. Launched on August 24th, the collection marks the beginning of another chapter, imbued with the understated elegance and enduring creativity that the brand has made its own. About Sézane Founded in Paris in 2013, Sézane grew out of Morgane Sézalory’s vision to create timeless, high-quality pieces at fair and accessible prices. What began as a personal project has since evolved into a community-driven brand where creativity, craftsmanship, and connection are at the core. Beyond its celebrated womenswear collections, Sézane extends its universe through Octobre Éditions for men, Petit Sézane for children, and Les Composantes for homeware, each reflecting the same thoughtful design philosophy that has defined the house from the very beginning. images courtesy of Sézane

An interview with Felicia Halén Fredell, the founder of The Reverence Project text Ulrika Lindqvist Fashion designer Felicia Halén Fredell launched The Reverence Project in April 2024. TRP takes it’s inspiration from their muses, their first collection being inspired by activist and poet Nattalie Ström Bunpuckdee. We had a chat with Felicia about her inspirations and the future of The Reverence Project. Please tell me a bit of your backstory, what did you do before launching The Reverence Project and what was the idea behind it? Like so many others the pandemic really affected me mentally. As a freshly graduated fashion designer I felt chewed up and spat back out, close to a burnout. My field completely lost its appeal and I was really stuck in a mindset of counting the fashion industry’s faults – the list goes on and on. It made me feel really powerless and at times even apathetic. I had too much time on my hands to think about what really matters. I realize this differs from person to person but for me, I concluded that meaningful and challenging conversations are what makes my life worth living. More than one person in my life said I was a good listener and I took that to heart and ran with it, that’s all I’d ever like to be. This idea kept on growing and brewing for years, and when you can’t seem to let go you know you have to realize it somehow. I wanted to create designs centered around other people’s perspectives. I wanted the privilege of getting to know people and zoom past small talk to where we talk about what matters most to them and why. I kind of found The Reverence Project to be a hack of sorts. It’s essentially about hope and how sharing experiences and stories with others make you feel less alone. It’s really empowering to be the trailblazer who first talks about their experiences, but it’s also really empowering to hear someone put your experiences into words for the first time as well. What is your inspiration behind your designs? The potential of fashion is endless because it’s a fine-tuned language, stories can be weaved into garments in so many ways. By now I’ve developed this standard form based on my first muses that basically is a template for an interview. I ask them about their relationship to their body, does clothes usually serve as a uniform, armor or creative expression? And then we talk about the relationship to the self. Are there recurring life themes that have shaped them as a person? Is there anything they wish someone would ask them? These conversations usually lead to really beautiful, vulnerable and fulfilling places, and I try to share some bits and pieces of myself so it doesn’t feel exploitative for the muse. When they word something in a hard-hitting way it usually becomes a visual metaphor that I can use in my design. It often ends up becoming prints or draping that is meant to represent the muse’s story. Whether it translates is a completely different thing, but how my design is received and further interpreted is just as interesting. Please tell us more about your muses? Anyone could be a muse, because everyone has a story to tell. But I sometimes describe my muses as unintentional activists. They’re the type of person who can’t help but to speak their mind in the eye of injustice. Maybe the mood at the dinner table becomes a little uncomfortable, but they sleep well at night knowing that they stood up for something they believe in. At first my muses were close friends who became my patient testing guinea pigs. I slowly developed the questions that I figured led to those radically vulnerable conversations. At its core The Reverence Project aims to be unapologetically intersectional feminist and so the muses often reflect that. Voices that are seldom heard should be amplified. And it’s my pride and joy to weave their stories into garments. What would you say are the 3 core values for The Reverence Project? Radical vulnerability – because it takes great strength to be soft.Authenticity – depicting my muses in a respectful and empowering way is something I take very seriously. Existential sustainability – it basically means hope, giving people hope through our shared stories. How would you describe your customer? I think my customer in many cases are very similar to my muses. They often stand for something, and in doing so stand out. Since their identity is a bit of a statement, blending in was never an option. They might as well dress expressively as well in colors, prints and silhouettes that can be exaggerated. It’s all a springboard towards expressing personal thoughts and ideas. I think my customers often consume a lot of culture in all its shapes and forms, fashion is just another of many interests and they happen to like something quite feminine even if they don’t necessarily always identify as a woman. But they’re daring in their softness and relate to specific stories and therefore garments from The Reverence Project as well. What have been the most challenging aspects of launching The Reverence Project? I think the fact that I’m alone in my business thus far. I’m surrounded by a lot of great creators and creatives that I’ve collaborated with while developing the brand. But as of now I don’t have a team and it’s probably the big thing up ahead of TRP. What can we expect from The Reverence Project in the near future? Expect more interviews with muses who wear their heart on their sleeves. And with them looks developed specifically after their stories that are jam-packed with meaning. But don’t expect them in the tempo of a fashion brand that shows collections several times per year during fashion weeks. When you least expect it, we might drop a beautiful story for you to enjoy! Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. 

Mats Gustafson and Ted Muehling’s journeys in Reclaiming Beauty text Ulrika Lindqvist “He was wilder than me,” jokes jewellery designer Ted Muehling about his partner referring to Mats Gustafson’s spirited early years in New York. “The city was kind of a magnet at that time. People came from everywhere,” continues Swedish illustrator Mats Gustafson about New York in the 70s, when he crossed the Atlantic in search of parties, creative freedom and himself. In the realm of both artistry and love, the influence between two individuals can be a profound and transformative force. In talking with Mats Gustafson and Ted Muehling about their beginnings as artists, their sources of inspiration, and the “Reclaiming Beauty” exhibition, I observed glimpses of this force, along with a strong sense of complicity, respect for each other’s work, tenderness and humour. The couple, who have been together since the 90s, are currently showcasing their works in a joint exhibition hosted by Millesgarden, one of Stockholm’s most famous museums. Mats Gustafson’s artistic journey began in the late 1970s. While studying set design at Dramatiska Institut, he started doing fashion illustrations on the side. It was H&M that was one of his first collaborations and he considers it to be his proper school. “We’re talking about the late 70s. They were still doing advertising with illustrations and that’s how I learnt to work fast,” he recalls. Since then, he has worked with renowned fashion brands, such as Chanel, Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Svenskt Tenn, Viktor & Rolf and many more. His dedication to creating with his hands and paper has set him apart as an artisan. For the past ten years, Gustafson has collaborated with Dior, creating illustrations for some of the most iconic looks of the French fashion house. “My job is to understand and depict the designer’s work. I want to find the best in it, or what I consider the best, and interpret it,” he says about his work in this world. Mats reflects on his transition into exhibiting commercial art, a departure from his usual applied art. This shift presented both a challenge and an opportunity to view his work through a different lens. “Working with applied art or commercial art works very well for me,” says Mats. “I like not having to make up my mind all the time; somebody else decides, and I appreciate that. But I think, at some point, when I had my first show, exhibiting commercial art was an unfamiliar experience. It required me to look at it differently. Is it worth looking at? It’s meant to be consumed, and especially in the fashion world, you know how fast things move.” He recognizes that every exhibition brings something new and unfamiliar. Despite his illustrious career, he confesses, “I’m still learning. I’m still inexperienced.” The AIDS epidemic represented another major turning point for his art. It influenced his desire to create more portraits and explore themes of intimacy, homosexuality, and death as a way to deal with the crisis. Amidst his enjoyment of fashion-related work, he recognised the need to delve deeper and convey more profound themes. It was during this period that he gravitated towards nudes as a means of artistic expression. “My first work out of fashion was to do nudes,” he reveals. Stripping away the clothes allowed him to embark on a new artistic path. Nudes, for him, represented the most fundamental subject to depict, opening the door to exploring other classical themes such as nature and interiors and this shift marked a transformative period in his creative evolution. Always having nature as a starting point, Ted Muehling has created jewellery and objects inspired by nature since 1976. With a major in industrial design, he was drawn to the poetic and artistic side of making functional objects. While many of his classmates were venturing into car and appliance design, Muehling had a different vision. “I preferred creating beautiful shapes that you can hold and touch,” he shared. Despite not taking a specific jewellery class, Muehling’s talent caught the attention of the head of his department, who allowed him to focus on live drawing instead of automotive designs. “He was very generous in giving me the freedom to choose interesting subjects,” Muehling reflected. He embraced a hands-on approach, working directly with the materials to truly understand their potential. “I always think architects should build a house before using a computer, just like they build a structure,” Muehling mused, highlighting the importance of hands-on exploration. He found great joy in experimenting with materials, especially in the realm of jewellery, and acknowledged the serendipitous moments that arise from such exploration. “You see what it does, and then you think, ‘Oh, that’s a good direction.’ It keeps feeding you surprising elements,” he added. The first piece he created is part of the Reclaiming Beauty exhibition and was inspired by Gingko trees found in New York. Their bright yellow leaves adorned the streets during autumn, forming captivating shapes. “I tried to interpret this shape, which could resemble a fishtail, using a long stone and created a pin hair,” he shared. Since then, Muehling has cultivated a niche following that appreciates the authenticity and simplicity his designs embody. “We represent a quieter, more authentic life,” he asserts. He describes his customers as smart women who avoid status trappings and materialism. Their search is for something deeper, a connection to their essence. Muehling’s creative journey is not just about aesthetics; it’s about balance and harmony. “The jewellery I create should be a subtle punctuation mark, an intriguing little movement, as a dear friend of mine describes it. It shouldn’t overpower or overwhelm. Finding the balance between too much and too little can be challenging, but it’s essential,” he tells me.Muehling’s path to success has been a gradual one, spanning nearly five decades. From having a few assistants to a team of 11 dedicated individuals, he has crafted a business that supports and nurtures its members. “I feel lucky to do what I love with such wonderful people,” he says.Mats Gustafson and Ted

Building a Brand with Soul: Henrik Berg on the Story Behind MORJAS Ulrika Lindqvist For Henrik Berg, founder of premium footwear label MORJAS, the magic lies in the details — not just in the shoes, but in the entire brand experience. From a Stockholm apartment stacked with boxes to a flagship store and a newly launched women’s line, Berg shares how frustration became fuel, how timelessness trumps trend, and why good design should always leave a lasting impression. Ulrika Lindqvist: Can you tell us how long you’ve been working in accessory design and what originally inspired you to pursue a career in this field?Henrik Berg: MORJAS was launched in 2017 and I worked on it 1.5-2 years before launching so I’ve been in the business for about 10 years.I’ve always been drawn to the full experience of a brand, not only product design, but the whole spectrum of the brand universe. From visual aesthetics to materials, silhouettes and packaging and so on. To me, it’s important to blend a variety of ingredients that together create a memorable taste.This has been with me since a young age, I’ve been interested in both aesthetics (furniture, architecture, art, music, style) and business and how the two worlds can interact. The two don’talways overlap naturally, but when they do, it’s really interesting.My first real career experience came from working at Maria Nila, a beauty brand where I launched the brand globally working as an Export Manager. It was stimulating to work with the full scope of brand building, from product to storytelling to customer experience. Again, the full scope of a brand is something that has remained my core since. UL: What motivated you to found MORJAS?HB: I was a frustrated customer. Period. I was a customer of high-quality shoes, but kept running into the same frustrating experience where I didn’t think that the value you received matched the price you paid – from product to brand experience. That disconnect between product and brand, price and service, became a frustration I couldn’t shake. MORJAS was born out of that tension. I wanted to create a brand that didn’t just deliver great shoes, but gave you the feeling of being taken care of, from start to finish. UL: Please tell us about the process in creating the SS25 collection.HB: SS25 is the most extensive collection we’ve released so far. We’ve focused more on casual styles this season, including sneakers and boat shoes. Every new season begins with the team sharing product ideas and design proposals. We look at the collection as a whole and ask what’s missing, what can be improved, and what adds value. We’ve always prioritised refining what we have before adding new styles. This year is no exception, with an updated boat shoe, a new deck shoe, and a complete redesign of The Trainer. UL: Can you walk us through a typical workday?HB: No day looks the same, which is part of the appeal. We’re a team of fourteen, so I stay close to most parts of the business. I hold meetings, sync with different teams, and try to carve out time for creative and strategic work. That could be researching products, outlining a new campaign, or shaping future steps. The energy at the office and the people around me are a big source of inspiration. UL: How do you view trends in the world of accessories—would you say you follow them, or goyour own way?HB: We observe trends, but we’re not driven by them. Style, to me, is separate from fashion. It lasts longer. The aim is always to create pieces that feel relevant today but still resonate in five or ten years. That’s why we spend time refining shapes, silhouettes, and materials over time. We want things to age well. UL: What is your favourite piece from the collection?HB: The Penny Loafer will always hold a special place. It was the first shoe we launched back in 2017, and still feels like the anchor of the brand. It’s traditional but distinctive, with a balance between Swedish design and Spanish soul. Right now, I’ve been wearing the new boat shoe in taupe nubuck on repeat. And once summer hits, I’ll basically live in The Espadrille and our unlined penny loafers. UL: What would you say are the three core values of MORJAS?HB: Deliver WOW. Be kind. Take action. These values shape how we operate, how we treat each other, and how we interact with customers. UL: How would you describe the MORJAS customer?HB: Curious, detail-oriented, and quietly confident. They appreciate quality, but they don’t need to shout about it. There’s a shared mindset among many of them: people who care about the small things, how something feels, how it’s made, how it’s presented — because those things say something without saying too much. UL: Please tell us a memorable moment from your journey with MORJAS?HB: There are honestly too many to mention. The first day I launched will always be a strong memory. I had about 200-250 pair of shoes from floor to ceiling in my small apartment and orders came flooding in and I had not even thought about getting a printer to print the shipping labels. So mywife ran down to the store and bought one and I kept packing like a maniac. We were very lucky to sell out the first batch in the first week which was an overwhelming response.Another one was when I and my dear friend and photographer Abraham Engelmark got our way into Italy during Covid to portray John Goldberger (AKA Auro Montanari) for his first brand story ever. It was our first major campaign and to date still one of the best we’ve done. When we opened our first flagship store in Stockholm, Casa MORJAS, in 2023 was another big moment. More recently, launching MORJAS Women has been one of the biggest milestones in our journey.Seeing the response and excitement around it has been incredibly rewarding. UL: What are your plans for the future for MORJAS?HB: To continue refining what we’ve built. That means listening to our customers, evolving with purpose, and staying focused on long-term value. We’re not in a rush. The aim is to build something that lasts

An Interview with Celeste Lee Arendse: The Interworkings of Her Craft text Janne McIntosh Janae: What inspired you to start Selfi? Celeste: Growing up, my sister and I used to draw on every surface we could find. Both my parents were in the fashion industry, so industry talk was always an essential part of the conversation at dinner. Along with that, I was really interested in art and started drawing from a young age, as well as customising existing old clothes. I think it definitely started early, and many of those moments led me to become a designer today. J: What goals did you have in creating your first collection? C: I saw a niche of creative women in industry who were not wearing office wear to work but attire that can blend from day to dinner, or for lack of a better word, creating more transient clothes. I was interested in the modern career women who have a love for travel, great food, and who appreciate art and design in Cape Town at the time. J: When it comes to fabrics, what are the ones that you really enjoy using? And why? C: With each collection, we strive to incorporate fabrics that are kinder to the environment. The fabrics we like to use are cotton twill, ramie linen, rayon linen, hemp, and sometimes silk. We examine the amount of water used in the production of our fabrics, considering whether it contributes to microfibre pollution or greenhouse gas emissions, and how long it will take to decompose after purchase. All these factors have led us to select the most eco-friendly plant-based fibers carefully. J: What role does sustainability play in your brand?C: The fashion industry produces a lot of waste season after season. Disposing of mock trials, samples, and fabrics that are no longer needed by design houses. With the dumping of these waste textiles, toxic chemicals are released into the environment and break down into the soil when they are buried. Every season, we donate all our mock trials and samples to St Anne’s home for abused women and children in Woodstock, Cape Town, and Emmanuel Children’s Day Care Centre in Atlantis. Here, the textiles we donate get repurposed and used for skill development through craft and sewing. J: How do you approach functionality and creativity with your collections? C: It’s important to me to create clothes that are authentic but not intimidating or uncomfortable to wear. Clothes that are both durable and body-shaping are essential. We often redesign silhouettes season after season that fit well, and we will make slight changes in collar or pocket details J: Could you tell me more about how you incorporate African culture and identity into your work? C: Self-identity and culture are all about identity. In previous collections, we have drawn inspiration from indigenous tribes, such as the San people of South Africa, and explored the herbs and rituals they used for healing purposes. Weed colours and textures from these elements have been incorporated into our collections and lookbooks. We have also incorporated rock art female body silhouettes into knitwear pieces we have designed to celebrate the San people’s body and the curvaceous nature of the South African female form. We have also had a dress called the Ostrich Egg dress, which was quilted to resemble an ostrich egg used by the San People for drinking. J: What kind of woman or person do you have in mind when you design pieces for Selfi?  C: We design with the modern global woman who loves to travel, great food, and who appreciates art and design. She is self-aware, conscious, and is rooted in exploring herself, always striving to be the best version of herself. J: Can you shed some light on your connection between your brand and the charities you work with? C: Every season, we donate all our mock trials and samples to St Anne’s home for abused women and children in Woodstock, Cape Town, and Emmanuel Children’s Day Care Centre in Atlantis. Here, the textiles we donate get repurposed and used for skill development through craft and sewing. J: What makes Selfi stand out in the South African fashion landscape? C: It’s always been important to me to create a band with a purpose rooted in self-empowerment. Clothes with a mission that can raise the vibration of my environment, may it be through the people who make the clothes, to the women who wear them, or how it affects the earth. It’s all one chain; everything is connected. With this mindset, that is what makes us different. J: What is next for Selfi? C: I wish to do more collaborations with like-minded brands. Creating authentic experiences around fashion based on connection and high vibration experiences locally and internationally.