‘Cadavre Exquis’: Bonnetje AW26
text and photography Ella Nelson
Marking their final season as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NEWTALENT scheme, the repurposed tailoring brand Bonnetje brought its audience into an intimate living room in Copenhagen’s Old Town for its AW26 showcase. Welcomed by a vintage-inspired, flickering projection and mismatched glasses of pink, sparkling liquid, guests and models mingled under warm, dramatic spotlights while roaming the room to a live musical performance by Francesca Buratelli and Villads Klint.
The collection—centered on surrealism and fragmentation—felt intentional, powerful, and sensuous, serving as a strong showcase of what Bonnetje does best: transforming the suit into reassembled silhouettes through creative structures and impeccable craftsmanship. In conversation with Odalisque, co-founders and creative directors Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek Hansen offer a glimpse into the processes behind the collection, reflect on the importance of collaboration, and look ahead to where the brand is headed next.
Ella Nelson: Please tell us about how the AW26 collection came to life. What inspired it, what did the creative process look like, and how does the showcase reflect those ideas?
Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek Hansen: This season, we have, among other things, explored the blending of time and place. We have drawn inspiration from the methods of Surrealism and worked with misplaced objects. The formal and avant-garde expression of the suit has been combined with glimpses from our youth. We held our showcase in old living rooms which fitted well to the idea of mixing time and space. We also made a video with Casper Sejersen, which was a central part of the showcase.
EN: Your process begins at the opposite end of traditional design, starting with the deconstruction of existing garments. How do you navigate this approach to create pieces that feel distinctly your own, and how did this method inform the development of the AW26 collection?
AN & YH: It comes very naturally to us, and the design process flows easily. We usually start by working a bit, cutting pieces apart and putting them back together, and then often pass the work to each other to continue. That’s also why we chose to name the collection ‘Cadavre Exquis’.
EN: Last year, with SS26, you took a slightly new approach compared to previous collections, placing greater emphasis on ready-to-wear. What prompted this shift, and how did it influence the direction of AW26?
AN & YH: We felt it was important to show that many of our designs also work in daily life and that they are wearable. Many of the shapes we created for AW26 are quite basic – such as pencil skirts, slip dresses, etc. – and it is more the materials and textures that are slightly less commercial.
EN: Which key elements or collaborators played a role in shaping the AW26 collection?
AN & YH: Of course, always the suit. But besides that, it was the video we made with Casper Sejersen and stylist Rikke Wackerhausen. From an early stage in the process, we had a strong desire to make a film, and it became something of a starting point. It has been very interesting to see how Casper has translated our universe into a film with his own touch, and it is something we are very proud of. It has also been a great learning process, working with Rikke’s styling and creative consulting on the side, and seeing how it all has come to life.
EN: Collaboration is a strong part of your practice. You’ve built a close-knit creative circle—including Casper Sejersen, Francesca Burattelli, and design studio Alexis Mark. How did these relationships come about, and how have they shaped Bonnetje’s creative identity?
AN & YH: Collaborations are a very important part of Bonnetje. We couldn’t have done this without them. We love working across multiple mediums, and we also think it’s important for both small and established artists to stand together. We are grateful for the support and for these collaborators’ intuitive understanding of our universe, and for how they have helped elevate it to new heights.
EN: You’ve also worked closely with leather-goods brand Venczel on collaborations and exclusive drops. What sparked that partnership, and how did you approach those projects creatively?
AN & YH: We loved Venczel’s design and her very well made craftsmanship. She’s really talented. It’s a bit of the same – a match made from heaven and an intuitive collaboration on design and material.
EN: Are there any specific pieces, details, or ideas you’d like to highlight from this collection?
AN & YH: This time, we explored how we could reshape a new material by combining multiple elements, such as collars and cuffs, to create a new narrative, material, and texture. We also worked with the sculptural shoulders of the suits by creating a dress featuring several of them. The result highlights the symbolic power of the suit, resembling a ballroom dress with multiple strong, sculptural shoulders.
EN: What challenges did you face in creating the AW26 collection, and what are you most proud of?
AN & YH: As always, it comes down to time and money, haha… And also the format of a presentation instead of a show. We think this is a format that suits us best, but it’s challenging for the models and for us to create an experience lasting two hours instead of ten minutes. A presentation needs to have something special. We wanted it to be intimate, yet inclusive. What we’re most proud of is that it all came together, and that so many lovely and talented people helped us get through it. They have been indispensable.
EN: What do you hope audiences feel or walk away with after experiencing the AW26 showcase?
AN & YH: That they’ve been a part of something unique.
EN: How does this collection build on and strengthen the ongoing narrative of Bonnetje?
AN & YH: There was a lot of storytelling in this collection – and we hope it will last a bit longer than a show. We always have the suit and shirts as a starting point and this collection was no exception. Hopefully the DNA in Bonnetje was very visible this time, as we took a deeper dive into what this material is capable of. After being named one of CPHFW’s ‘One to Watch’ and joining the NEWTALENT scheme, this season marks your final showcase within the program. Looking ahead, what’s next for Bonnetje? Looking a bit into how we can combine business and creativity in a sustainable way without losing our DNA.
