A Danish Affair at Kafé Søder
Text Jahwanna Berglund
Danish smørrebrød, Swedish comfort food and a few lovely details at the table. Newly opened in Stockholm’s Söderhallarna, Kafé Søder brings two of my favourite worlds together.
There is something very appealing about a restaurant that brings Denmark and Sweden together over lunch and a glass of something cold. At Kafé Søder, which opened on 23 October in the newly renovated Söderhallarna, that relationship begins with the logo: Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid meets Stockholm’s Saint Erik. A fitting introduction to a place where the conversation between the two countries continues across the menu and onto the table.
The latest opening from 20-Gruppen, the team behind Tjoget, Liebling, G.A.T and Hornstulls Bodega, takes its inspiration from the traditional beer cafés that once dotted Stockholm and remain part of everyday life in Copenhagen. Here, Swedish beer flows from the taps, Danish beer comes by the bottle, and there is plenty of aquavit to accompany whatever arrives from the kitchen.
The name carries a little local history, too. Kafé Søder nods to Café Söder Espresso, which previously occupied the premises, while the Danish “ø” signals its new direction.
On the menu, Danish smørrebrød sit alongside Swedish meatballs and homemade kroppkakor, the traditional filled potato dumplings. Head chef Patrik Cedercrona, whose experience includes Strandvägen 1, Broms and Brasserie Hötorget, leads a kitchen rooted in familiar Scandinavian cooking. Restaurant manager Marta Bystedt joins from Liebling, bringing her own connection to the concept through a childhood in Skåne and plenty of time spent in Copenhagen.
image courtesy Cafe Söder
I have a particular weakness for the smaller details in a restaurant, and here I found myself looking closely at the table. The red and white Sabre cutlery and Bobo schnapps glasses were personal favourites. There is something rather lovely about giving the glass for your snaps as much consideration as the drink itself.
Designed by Stockholm’s CJ Studio, with Swedish furniture from VERK, the interior draws on classic beer cafés, 1980s patisseries and the postmodern character of Söderhallarna. Across its 160 square metres, the space accommodates 90 guests between the café, bar and dining room. A further 50 seats are planned outdoors when spring arrives.
Lunch begins at 10am on weekdays, with an à la carte menu and bar carrying things into the evening. Given 20-Gruppen’s background in cocktails, the drinks deserve attention alongside the food: the offering includes Scandinavian classics and “groggs”, as well as lager, aquavit and a concise wine list.
Kafé Søder is now open in Söderhallarna, Stockholm. Reservations at kafesoder.com.
