• photography Ellen Jong

    Frieze Frames — A Vibe Check from LA's Art Week

    Written by Eddie Brannan by Nicole Miller

    The juggernaut that is Frieze rolled into LA last week, and as usual, the main event, held at the Santa Monica airport as in previous years, brought with it a flotilla of smaller fairs, pop-ups and openings. The buzz of what has now become a quasi-official art week was felt city-wide, from the Westside to the Hollywood Hills, from DTLA to the artist enclaves to the east. But it was a subdued Los Angeles that welcomed the annual extravaganza this year. The toll of the recent fires on the city was unprecedented, with two neighborhoods—Pacific Palisades and Altadena—almost completely razed. Everyone knows someone who lost absolutely everything in the fires. Homes are gone, studios are gone, collections are gone, archives are gone—things that can never be replaced. But the city stands strong, and Angelenos will build new homes and studios, make new art, and forge new stories. All the shows recognized the impact of recent events and offered fundraising for wildfire relief, whether at designated booths where artworks were available by artist donation, or by providing QR codes linking directly to various fundraisers. Grief And Hope is one such organization, committed to raising funds for impacted artists and art workers, and there are many other groups and endeavors working towards the same end.

    Aside from Frieze itself, we took the city and the art world’s temperature at other events around LA—Felix Art Fair at the renowned Roosevelt Hotel, Future Fair Tigertail in the hills of Brentwood, and The Art of Oscar group art show, at AF Projects in Hollywood. Felix kicked the week off on Wednesday, and the action was in the rooms and in particular the cabanas around the pool, where a wealth of galleries and artists showed. Out-of-towners were happy to find clear blue skies and temperatures in the 70s in LA, and took advantage of the poolside setting to socialize and acclimatize, as well as take in the works on show. Among our favorites were Meegan Barnes’ whimsical ceramic depictions of LA landmarks at One Trick Pony.

    Thursday was opening day at Frieze, and the four huge main rooms were full. As well as the wealth of art on show (Sydney Cain, represented by Casey Kaplan, was the stand-out among stand-outs), the people-watching was similarly top-flight. LA is a city that doesn’t typically like to dress up unless there are red carpets involved, so it’s refreshing for Angelenos to see one another in daytime finery.

    Talking of red carpets, Friday found us at The Art Of Oscar, a group show organized by The Hollywood Reporter to coordinate with the awards and curated by Michael Slenske, where a range of artists showed work that reimagined the famous statuette. Ellen Jong’s Oscarella, an ink-black four-foot-tall Oscar fountain projecting a tutu of water into a surrounding pool, caught visitors’ attention.

    Topping the most-extravagant-setting list was Future Perfect’s presentation that occupied the whole of a theatrically lit white mansion hidden behind high, high hedges under Runyon Canyon, where we saw the sculptural ceramic pieces of LGS Studio and ran into co-founders Tom Renaud and Noel Hennessy.

    The weekend meant multiple parties, including a garden gathering at the home of M + B Gallery’s Benjamin Trigano, and a jam-packed pool party at the West Adams home of Alexis Borges, president of Next Models.

    And lastly on Saturday we visited Future Fair’s pop-up group show in the Brentwood hills, where among other works we saw wonderful wood intarsia renditions of prosaic objects such as cassette mix tapes by Michael Buhler-Rose (represented by New Discretions) while a chef-prepared dinner was served to invited guests as they watched the sun set over the hills of LA, and over Frieze week 2025.

    photography Ellen Jong
  • images courtesy of Dr. Martens

    Inside the SS25 Collection: The People, Passion, and Process Behind Dr. Martens’ Next Chapter

    Written by Sandra Myhrberg

    Dr. Martens has always been more than just footwear. It’s a symbol of individuality, rebellion, and self-expression. The SS25 collection marks an exciting evolution, driven by the talented individuals shaping the brand’s designs and storytelling. At the core of SS25 is The Buzz, a bold ‘90s-inspired silhouette reimagined for today’s wearers, alongside Genix Nappa, a sustainable material crafted from reclaimed leather offcuts. This season is all about fusing past and future while pushing boundaries in both design and sustainability. The Buzz shoe and campaign mark an exciting evolution for the brand, driven by the talented individuals behind Dr. Martens’ designs and storytelling. This season shines a light on the incredible team behind the scenes at Dr. Martens—the designers, product experts, and marketeers whose creativity brings each collection and campaign to life. Balancing heritage with innovation is at the heart of the brand’s approach. The design teams constantly reference Dr. Martens’ 64-year archive to maintain the integrity of its brand DNA – whether it’s through iconic silhouettes, distinctive design details, or standout campaigns over the years. At the same time, this new generation of talent brings fresh ideas, materials and design approaches that push the brand forward. It’s this fusion of past and future that keeps Dr. Martens evolving while remaining unmistakably Doc’s. In this exclusive interview, Becki Evans, Jack Connors, and Bridie Husband share how Dr. Martens stays true to its rebellious roots while continuing to evolve.

    What has been the biggest challenge in launching the SS25 collections, and how did the team overcome it?
    Becki Evans (Global Brand Manager): Dr. Martens has a rich heritage, making it both exciting and challenging to decide which elements of our DNA and legacy to retain whilst ensuring a launch resonates with a new generation of wearers. At our core, we defy norms and celebrate individuality. This philosophy shapes our decision-making process. The Buzz collection embodies that spirit. Infused with confidence and the warmth of friendship, the campaign is bold, bright, and unapologetically Dr. Martens. Our regional teams have brought it to life through local partnerships and activations, helping new audiences to feel the buzz.

    Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in fashion. How does the SS25 collection, particularly the Genix Nappa line, reflect Dr. Martens commitment to sustainability?
    Jack Connors (Sustainability Project Manager): Dr. Martens long-term sustainability ambition is to become a net-zero business by 2040, and a key step towards this goal is integrating more *sustainable materials across all our product ranges. The Genix Nappa line embodies this commitment by reclaiming leather offcuts that would otherwise go to landfill and re-engineering them into a soft, lightweight, and durable material. Since its launch in Spring 2024, the range has been a huge success, and we’re excited to push its potential even further with new print and embroidery designs available next month. Beyond Genix Nappa, we’re continuously evolving our material mix, increasing the number of sustainable options across all product categories to drive long-term change.

    *At DM’s, a sustainable material is one that is durable, made from recycled, renewable, or regenerative sources, and produced responsibly.

    How does Dr. Martens ensure its products remain relevant to both loyal customers and new generations of wearers?
    Bridie Husband (Footwear Designer): At Dr. Martens we rely on our rich archive to influence what’s next for us, with nearly 65 years of heritage, we have a deep pool of inspiration to explore. Our design ethos is to stay true to our DNA whilst appealing to a new generation of wearers by experimenting with new materials, colours and collaboration partners. The Buzz shoe draws inspiration from the ‘90s archive. What aspects of that era influenced its design the most? Everything about the Buzz shoe is inspired by the ‘90s – from the chunky, rounded proportions to the leopard prints and pink hues. The Buzz has a sporty, vintage aesthetic that our wearers haven’t seen from us in recent seasons. There’s a sense of physical elevation and confidence that comes with a big platform sole: it takes up space and demands attention.

    Bridie, you led the design for Buzz and championed the return of an archive sole. What drew you to this specific element, and how did you modernize it?
    Bridie:
    Bringing a classic back in a new way feels extra special. Our team always references the archive to make sure new styles align with our heritage. This type of style had been sought after by true brand fans for years – you can see the love for it by the traction it gets on resale sites and the customer interactions on our own platforms. When I pitched the idea to bring iback in my interview at DM’s, the idea snowballed, and the newly imagined Buzz is now the key mainline style for this season and beyond. The new Buzz silhouette has a classic DM’s identity but brings something bold and playful to a potential new wearer.
    The Buzz platform sits between a sneaker and a shoe.

    What kind of consumer do you envision embracing this new hybrid style?
    Bridie: The Buzz is the perfect choice for anyone who typically reaches for sneakers but wants to elevate their look whilst keeping things effortless. It’s designed for those who love to stand out yet appreciate timeless, investment-worthy pieces. With its unique shape, elevated height and versatile neutral tones of black, brown, and leopard, the Buzz seamlessly fits into any wardrobe, making it easy to dress up or down.

    What do you hope consumers will take away from the SS25 collections?
    Bridie:
    With our SS25 collections, we hope to inspire a sense of playfulness and optimism. We’ve dialled up the joy and introduced fresh silhouettes and bold design details that bring new energy to our offering. We can’t wait for our wearers to make them their own.


     



     

    images courtesy of Dr. Martens
  • photography Andy Liffner

    courtesy Layered

    A Decade of Design: Malin Glemme on Layered’s 10-Year Journey and the Future of Interior Aesthetics

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    As Layered celebrates its 10-year anniversary, we sit down with founder and CEO Malin Glemme to reflect on a decade of design, creativity, and innovation. From an unexpected beginning—creating a rug for her own home—to building an internationally recognized brand, Malin shares her journey, the inspirations behind her work, and what’s next for Layered.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Hi Malin, congratulations on celebrating 10 years with Layered!

    Malin Glemme: Thank you so much! It’s been an incredible journey, and I’m so proud of what we’ve achieved.

    UL: Could you share how long you've been working in the interior design industry and what initially inspired you to pursue a career in this field?

    MG: I’ve been working in the design industry for over a decade now. My journey began with a deep passion for creating beautiful spaces that evoke emotion and feel personal. In 2014, I was decorating my new 200-square-meter home on a limited budget. Having a background in product development, I decided to design my own rug. I found an amazing supplier in India who helped bring my idea to life, and the rug ended up being featured in Sköna Hem. Readers started reaching out, asking where they could purchase it, and that’s when I realized there was real interest in this kind of design. That moment inspired me to launch LAYERED with a vision of offering rugs that combine innovative and sustainable design.

    UL: What motivated you to establish Layered a decade ago?

    MG: The experience of creating that first rug and seeing people’s excitement about it made me realize there was a gap in the market. At the time, rugs were often treated as neutral backdrops rather than statement pieces. I wanted to change that by introducing designs that felt bold, stylish, and high-quality while being crafted sustainably. Layered was born out of a desire to elevate rugs to something that could truly anchor a room and tell a story.

    UL: Over the past 10 years, have there been any standout projects or events that hold a special place in your journey?

    MGThere are so many memorable moments! Collaborating with inspiring designers and launching collections that push creative boundaries has been incredibly rewarding. One standout memory is when we launched internationally—it was a pivotal moment that showed how far we’d come. Every production trip has also been memorable and inspiring. Meeting our suppliers, many of whom run family-owned businesses, and seeing their craftsmanship up close is always fascinating and invaluable. But honestly, some of the most meaningful moments come from customers who share how our products have transformed their homes. That connection to real people and their stories is what makes it all worthwhile.

    UL: We’d love to hear more about your jubilee collection—what inspired its creation, and what makes it unique?

    MGThe Ten Years Unfolded collection is a celebration of our journey. We revisited our archives and reimagined three of the very first designs we ever launched. These were pieces that helped define our signature style in Layered’s early days. While the patterns still felt relevant, we updated the color combinations to give them a fresh, contemporary look that fits today’s aesthetic. The collection is special because it represents where we started and how far we’ve come, blending heritage with innovation.

    UL: What is your most cherished piece of interior design in your own home, and why?

    MGThat’s such a difficult question, but I’d have to say my old wooden table from the 1800s. It has a very simple design with a beautiful patina and has been with me through every home over the past 20 years. I’ve even promised my children that it will always be a part of our homes—it’s become a symbol of comfort and continuity for us all. 

    UL: Can you take us through a typical workday in your life?

    MGNo two days are ever the same! I usually start my mornings with some quiet time to gather my thoughts—either a quick walk or a cup of coffee at home. A large part of my day revolves around my role as CEO, ensuring that Layered is not just creatively inspiring but also a healthy, thriving company. This means everything from reviewing budgets and planning long-term strategies to connecting with my team and fostering a strong company culture. I also make time for creative meetings, working on new designs, and planning collaborations. And, of course, balancing work with family life is incredibly important to me.

    UL: You’ve also launched another company, PICK A POPPY. How do you manage the demands of running two businesses simultaneously?

    MGIt’s definitely a challenge, but I’m passionate about both brands and their unique stories. I’ve learned to focus on what I do best and surround myself with amazing teams who share the same vision. Time management is key, as is trusting the people I work with. PICK A POPPY allows me to explore a more playful side of design, which complements my work with Layered beautifully.

    UL: Looking to the future, what’s next for you? Are there any specific projects, goals, or aspirations you’re especially excited about?

    MGI’m excited to continue pushing creative boundaries with both Layered and PICK A POPPY. For Layered, we’re focusing heavily on expanding in the U.S., where we’re seeing significant growth. In 2024, we’ll also be participating in several major global design weeks and fairs, including New York Design Festival, 3daysofdesign in Copenhagen, and Paris Design Week. These events are incredible opportunities to connect with international audiences and showcase our vision on a larger stage. Alongside that, we’re exploring ways to make our products even more sustainable and timeless, with exciting design collaborations in the works. Personally, I’d love to dive deeper into storytelling through design—whether it’s through new collections, partnerships, or finding fresh ways to inspire people in their homes.

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