MADH: Redefining Denim Through Craft, Customisation, and Creative Independence

After nearly two decades shaping denim at Acne Studios, MADH founder Martin Gustafsson set out to build something slower, more deliberate, and deeply personal. Launched in 2023, MADH positions denim within a high-fashion context, combining Italian craftsmanship, sustainable production, and customisation to challenge the conventions of seasonal fashion.

Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell me a bit of your backstory, I know you founded MADH in 2023, what had you done before that and what was the idea behind MADH?

Martin Gustafsson:  I studied at the Textile University in Borås and completed my internship at Acne Studios, where I was later hired and began working in the denim department. I was fortunate to be part of the brand’s journey, spending nearly 20 years focused on denim development and design. With MADH, the idea is to create looks centered on exclusive denim within a high-fashion context. The focus is on quality and sustainability, supported by the close relationships we’ve built with Italian mills and industry specialists.

UL: How did MADH come together as a company?

MG:  When the brand was still just an idea, I reached out to a small group of people I had worked with over the years: individuals from across the industry whom I found inspiring and who I felt would be a strong match for MADH as a platform for creative work.

UL: You offer ready-to-wear as well as customisable denim, how do you combine your customised service with a world of fast fashion?

MG:  Customisation is an alternative to the traditional, season-driven business model. When it comes to jeans, we believe certain styles will always function as core pieces in a wardrobe. An on-demand setup allows both customers and stores access to a wider range of options and unique designs that are only produced when there is an actual demand. This approach significantly reduces leftover products after each season — a situation that is neither sustainable for the business nor for the environment.

UL: What are the steps of buying a MADH SKINS piece?

MG:  You pick you fit, black or blue denim, then you can pick from light or dark shade. After that you can add plain wash or vintage look. Final step for the ones that want to create a true customised look you can also add holes, embroideries or patches.  

UL: What is the inspiration behind your designs?

MG: The process starts through style-out session in Stockholm or Paris.  We combine previous seasons jeans with vintage clothing that are combined to a new look. Garments will need reconnection, cut, stitch, pin tuck and within the process you find inspiration for what feels interesting. We work a lot with the fabrics to develop  finishes or techniques that sometimes give inspiration to a garment.

UL: What would you say are the 3 core values for MADH?

MG: Innovation, Creative collaboration and Responsibility

UL: How would you describe the MADH customer?

MG:  Someone that loves denim and fashion, likes to create their style trough unique products produced in best quality and sustainable mindset.

UL: How do you source your materials?

MG: We work directly with a few mills in Italy. We develop fabrics together with them based on look, quality and sustainability. This is one of the most inspiring parts of the process.

 UL: How do you approach designing your unisex collection? Does it differ from designing menswear or womenswear?

MG: This comes naturally, if it wouldn’t I don’t think it would work. Often we make the fitting on different body types to see how the appearance looks. Small technical pattern changes will sometimes give a more characterful look. Fit is crucial and its start with look we want to create. 

 UL: What have been the most challenging aspects during these first years?

MG:  We live in a world and market that is within constant change and the challenge I would say is all the small things within a company with few people that needs to be take care of and adapted to the changes needed and spend money right. Its costly to introduce a brand so the financial situation will always chase you.

UL: What can we expect from MADH in the near future?

MG:  To be seen in more high end stores in Europe, so far we been focusing on Japan and US.  We also plan to make some pop-up exhibitions in collaboration with some artists.