A Journey in Time: Stephane Waser on 50 Years of Maurice Lacroix
Marking half a century of Swiss watchmaking, Maurice Lacroix looks ahead rather than back. In an exclusive interview, Stephane Waser speaks about the brand’s defining moments, its core values, and how iconic collections like AIKON continue to redefine accessible luxury for a new generation of watch lovers.
Ulrika Lindqvist: How have your designs developed over these 50 years? What discoveries have you made?
Stephane Waser: Since our foundation in 1975 in Saignelégier, design has evolved alongside the identity of Maurice Lacroix. The launch of the Masterpiece line was a key moment, allowing us to enter haute horlogerie and explore bold complications like the Square Wheel and Mysterious Seconds. These watches pushed our creative and technical limits, and that know-how still shapes our designs today. Another major shift came in 2016 with the launch of AIKON, a modern reinterpretation of Calypso. It marked a new direction, speaking to a younger, urban audience with strong design and clear value, making Swiss quality more accessible. With the 1975 Collection, 1975 Legacy, and AIKONIC, we celebrated our 50 th Anniversary by honoring our heritage while reinterpreting it for modern watch lovers. That balance between roots and relevance defines Maurice Lacroix.
UL: What are the characteristics of Maurice Lacroix?
SW: Maurice Lacroix is defined by a clear mission: Swiss craftsmanship, iconic design, and accessible excellence. We stand for accessible luxury, combining strong aesthetics, functionality, and our Swiss heritage in every timepiece. What has evolved is how we express these values. In the early years, the brand explored a wide range of references and even ventured into high-end, complex watchmaking. Over the past decade, we’ve refined our approach, focusing on a clearer identity built around strong, coherent collections — with AIKON as a key example — and placing greater emphasis on understanding and engaging with our customers.
UL: What defines a good timepiece for you?
SW: For me, a good timepiece brings together Swiss craftsmanship, iconic design, and real functionality, all delivered with a sense of accessible excellence. It has to be authentic — rooted in genuine watchmaking know-how, particularly our heritage in the Jura, where strong finishing, quality, and design are part of being a true manufacture. A good watch should also feel inclusive rather than exclusive. It needs to look and feel premium, use quality materials, and offer lasting value, while remaining within reach. Today’s customers, whether seasoned collectors or first-time buyers, are looking for that
balance: a watch with a clear identity, strong design — like AIKON — and the reassurance of Swiss expertise at a fair price.
UL: Do you have a favorite piece from your collection? What makes it special to you?
SW: My favorite piece is the AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde. What makes it special is how completely it expresses the Maurice Lacroix mindset. Throughout our history, we’ve always looked for inventive ways to indicate time, using curves, lines, colors, and materials to create
bold and expressive watchmaking. Retrograde displays are a perfect example of this spirit. It has been over 25 years since we introduced our first retrograde model, the Calendar Retrograde, featuring a proprietary mechanism — and since then, this rare complication has
become a true signature of the brand. The AIKONIC Master Triple Retrograde brings all of that together in one watch. It combines three retrograde indications — day, date, and power reserve — with skeletonized elements, creating a display that is both technical and highly visual. Clearly inspired by our past
creations, it distills the AIKON design codes, our manufacture movement expertise, and our mastery of materials into one singular form. For me, it feels like a future icon. It shows our ability to make high watchmaking complications relevant for today, delivering an ultra-desirable, urban timepiece while offering a clear glimpse into the future direction of Maurice Lacroix.
UL: What would you say are the three core values that define Maurice Lacroix?
SW: Maurice Lacroix is defined by three core values: accessibility with high perceived value, offering Swiss luxury watchmaking at fair prices; quality and craftsmanship, rooted in strong Swiss traditions and in-house expertise; and innovation driven by the journey, where creativity, technical progress, and bold ideas shape the brand’s continuous evolution.
UL: How would you describe the typical Maurice Lacroix customer?
SW: The typical Maurice Lacroix customer values authenticity above all, drawn by our genuine Swiss craftsmanship and deep roots in the Jura. They appreciate watches with strong finishing, thoughtful design, and true quality. At the same time, they seek accessibility—they want premium-looking, well-made timepieces that offer real Swiss expertise without being out of reach. Whether collectors or first-time buyers, they value the balance of exceptional design and fair pricing. Most importantly, they expect a brand that listens, understands, and anticipates their needs, creating a genuine connection beyond just the watch itself.
UL: If you could design for anyone, who would be your dream client?
SW: If I could design for anyone, my dream client would be someone who embodies self-made success—not relying on inherited wealth, but earning everything through hard work and determination. They’d have an adventurous spirit and a strong sense of urban cool, with an appreciation for genuine craftsmanship without any pretension. This client would likely be part of the Millennial or Gen-Z generation, digitally savvy and globally minded. Whether an entrepreneur, an athlete who has overcome challenges, a creative professional, or an explorer, their personal journey and mindset would perfectly resonate with Maurice Lacroix’s philosophy that success is a journey, not a destination.
UL: Is there a particular moment in these 50 years that stands out as especially memorable?
SW: One thing I want to make clear is that for our 50th anniversary, we didn’t simply look back and celebrate our legacy — that’s not really in the spirit of Maurice Lacroix. Of course, we marked the milestone with collections like the 1975 and the AIKONIC, which honor where we come from. But what matters most to us is consistency: staying true to our identity while refreshing certain pieces and introducing a few new Masterpieces with complications. It’s about moving forward, not just looking back
UL: What are you most looking forward to in the coming year?
SW: In the coming year, I’m most excited about how the luxury watch world is evolving around three key trends. First, sustainability will become a real expectation, with consumers looking for responsible materials and transparent practices. Second, design will focus more on wearability and versatility — think mid-size cases and unisex styles that fit seamlessly into different lifestyles. Finally, storytelling and exclusivity will grow in importance, as both
collectors and new buyers seek watches that feel personal, unique, and connected to heritage. At Maurice Lacroix, we’re embracing these changes while staying firmly rooted in our Swiss craftsmanship and identity.
All images Courtesy of Maurice Lacroix
