• Felix von Bahder on Deadwood’s PS26: "Beauty in the Breakdown"

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process of creating the PS26 runway show?

    Felix von Bahder: I started with a question: What does it feel like to land in a city that’s pulsing faster than your own heartbeat? Or to face a technology so alien that it makes you feel completely free and completely lost at the same time? From there we put together a mood-board of late-night escalators, neon-tinged rain, cords and cables forming an electric mess. We built the show like a mixtape: eclectic, raw and personal. Actually, the whole process for this collection was anchored in music. Guess it always is for us. Lately a lot of goth, new romance and industrial stuff from the 80's and early 90's.

    UL: How did you choose the location for the runway show?

    FvB:Stockholm’s Parkaden parking house is a concrete cathedral six stories above street noise, a brutalist icon by Hans Asplund and one of those buildings that, once you notice it, can never be unseen. We wanted to create a tranquil, almost sacred space for the audience, an oasis smack in the heart the city’s buzz. Perfect for a story about disorientation and underground salvation.

    ULWhat does the PS26 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for this collection?

    FvB:It’s a love letter to outsiders who arrive in the metropolis and get swallowed by its circuitry. It's also a cautionary tale of the seduction of technology and its dubious promise of liberation. We wanted to capture the allure of the big city, both the glitz and the gritty. Black leather, patch-worked from some past collections. Re-cut vintage tees worn underneath exaggerated faux fur pieces. Sensual snake lace next to scuffed denim. I wanted to take the collection into the comfort of basement venues where the misfits find each other, and the lights are always red.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: What was the biggest challenge creating your PS26 collection?

    FvB: Time. Joining Stockholm Fashion Week was not really our plan, but when we got asked, we simply could not resist a homecoming! But what were we going to show? We were already doing SS26 in Copenhagen in August, and we couldn't present the same stuff twice! So, we figured we had to create a brand new chapter to the story in just under 2 months. Pushing our up-cycling methods to the limit, which means hunting, cutting, and re-aligning many pieces into a few coherent silhouettes, the studio was a creative chaos! But it all worked out in the end!

    UL: What is your approach to showpieces, how much of the show is showpieces?

    FvB: Normally, Deadwood garments are made to be worn and loved. But sometimes we like to drive home an idea or a concept with one-off showpieces, who's main purpose is to ask questions or provoke emotions. But from the PS26 show I'd say all looks will make it into production, although some in pretty small numbers. Some of the vintage-tee concepts will be tweaked to make them more producible at scale. That's it.

    UL: How would you describe the Deadwood customer

    FvB: Deadwood is for music lovers, however genre-fluid. Age, gender, passport stamps, none of that matters. We're a group of humans that value things that last, and celebrate scars that tell stories.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: What can we expect from Deadwood in the future?

    FvB: More risk, same conviction. We’re doubling down on circular and next-gen materials, breathing some new life in our mycelium project, and plotting a few pretty cool collaborations. The second chapter of this collection, which we will present in Copenhagen, dives deeper into that existential thin-ice space where mankind and machines collide. I've been looking forward to this one for a long time now. After that, I'm going sailing or something, haha.

  • photography Jaclyn Adams

    Paula Pantolin: Crafting Personal Narratives in Metal

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Since founding Pantolin in 2006, Swedish jewelry designer Paula Pantolin has turned her deep-rooted love for art and storytelling into wearable works of meaning. From soldering her first piece as a student to creating emotionally charged collections like Isola, each design reflects a balance of craftsmanship, heritage, and personal history. In this interview, Pantolin shares the inspirations behind her work, the legacy of creativity in her family, and how her pieces invite the wearer to become part of the story.

    UL: Can you tell us how long you have been working in jewelry design and what originally inspired you to pursue a career in this field? 

    Paula Pantolin: Pantolin was founded in 2006. My grandmother was a textile artist and my mother is a painter, so I grew up in a creative environment where expressing oneself through materials felt completely natural. It was clear to me early on that I wanted to find my own voice within the fine arts.
    During my years in art school, I worked as an assistant to a silversmith. I started out doing the more repetitive tasks like casting and polishing, but I was always eager to learn more. The first time I saw two metal surfaces fuse together through soldering, I was completely mesmerized. That moment sparked something in me – a deep fascination that’s stayed with me ever since. Eventually, I earned a Master of Fine Arts in metalsmithing and jewellery design, and that became the foundation for what is now Pantolin.

    What motivated you to found Pantolin? 
    I never really liked working for others, haha. But seriously — I knew my
    designs stood out, and I wanted to create jewellery that I actually wanted to
    wear myself, since I rarely found pieces I liked (except for vintage, of course).
    I’ve always loved the idea of people wearing my art close to their hearts.
    We would love to hear more about the Isola collection. What inspired it, and how does it
    differ from your other collections? From idea to finished jewelry – can you take us through
    the process? 
    It’s a deeply personal project. My late father — who was a professional sailor, among
    other things — and I sketched this together many years ago. He sadly passed away last
    year, so I wanted this piece to serve as a kind of homage to him.
    The new collection is inspired by the idea of a life ring, something that helps you stay
    afloat in the turbulent sea of life. Its name refers to “island” or “solitude.” The collection
    is meant to include the wearer in the creative process, encouraging personal expression,
    as there are no rules for how to wear it. The round shape of the pendant works just as
    well on a scarf, a link, or a chain necklace. For example, paired with Pantolin’s cross
    chain.
    As for the process: I draw all the time, and often my ideas don’t fully mature until years
    later. When I decide to bring something into three-dimensional form, I explore which
    techniques might best serve the piece — soldering, casting, smithing, sculpting… almost
    anything.
    Can you walk us through a typical workday for you? 
    I don’t have typical workdays, I’m afraid. Every day looks a little different. But I’m
    very disciplined. My mornings usually start with exercise, followed by checking emails
    and handling web orders (Pantolin.com relaunched in April!). Then it’s a mix of
    sketching, packaging, running to the post office, and whatever else the day brings. I also
    spend a lot of time working by the bench, doing all the silversmithing myself—it's where

    I feel most grounded. Alongside my own practice, I work part time as a fine metal
    conservator, restoring historical objects.
    Which piece from the "Isola" collection is closest to your heart and why? 
    The bangle. It’s unique, it has a distinct character and feels truly good to wear.
    Is there any symbolism or hidden details in your jewelry that people might not immediately
    notice? 
    Yes, it’s in Pantolin’s DNA to hide little surprises inside the jewellery, whether
    it’s a pattern, engraving, or a gemstone.
    Your jewelry is inspired by the Swedish west coast. Is there a particular reason for that? 
    That's where I grew up, and where my grandmother and mother spent their
    summers.
    What do you want people wearing “Isola” to feel?  Feeling empowered and beautiful,
    while participating in the process of how to wear it, will inspire creativity in
    them as well.
    How do you see the future? What’s next? Are there any specific projects, goals, or ambitions
    that you are particularly excited about? I'm currently working on a few new
    pieces that relate to the rituals around the table – an area I find
    endlessly inspiring. I’m also very much looking forward to my
    upcoming solo exhibitions this summer and autumn, which will offer
    new perspectives on my creative process.

    photography Jaclyn Adams
    photography Cicci Jonson 
  • Hedvig – A Modern Ode to Swedish Culinary Heritage in Östermalmshallen

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund

    Tucked beneath the vaulted arches of Östermalmshallen, Stockholm’s grand temple court of fine food, Hedvig quietly opened its doors and is already becoming one of the city’s most talked-about culinary gems. More than a restaurant, Hedvig is an invitation to rediscover Swedish cuisine through the lens of memory, craftsmanship, and quiet elegance.

    The man behind the vision is celebrated restaurateur Elias Karroum, whose previous ventures include Beirut Café, Bistrot du Passage, Gabagool, to name a few that have earned cult status among discerning diners. With Hedvig, Karroum returns to something closer to home, both geographically and emotionally. Named after the nearby Hedvig Eleonora Church, the restaurant is a deeply personal project that connects food, place, and heritage. “I wanted to create a space where guests can experience the depth and comfort of traditional Swedish cuisine in a setting that honours both the past and the present,” he says.

    Step inside and you're met with an atmosphere that feels both timeless and modern: warm brass fixtures, natural leather, carved wood, and the soft glow of flickering candlelight. The chambre séparée upstairs, complete with a painted ceiling of Swedish birdlife and a view of the church spire, is like dining inside a living poem.

    The soul of Hedvig is steeped in husmanskost—Swedish comfort food, reimagined with seasonal nuance and thoughtful precision. Dishes like creamy gravlax, rich meatballs, terrines, and roasted root vegetables pay homage to the culinary memories of the region, while gently pulling them into the now. Hedvig draws inspiration from classic SARA restaurants and Czech beer halls, but its beating heart is distinctly Stockholm.

    Its setting couldn’t be more fitting. Östermalmshallen, the legendary red-brick market hall where Hedvig resides, has been a cornerstone of Swedish gastronomy since it first opened in 1888 before King Oscar II. Built in just six months using Börringe clinker brick and innovative cast-iron roofing, the hall introduced new architectural techniques to Sweden thanks to the vision of young architects Isak Gustaf Clason and Kasper Salin, who brought back inspiration from their travels through Europe.

    After a major restoration from 2016 to 2020, Östermalmshallen stands proudly revitalised, with its turrets, gables, and intricate details lovingly preserved. Today, it remains a living symbol of culinary excellence, making it the perfect stage for Hedvig’s graceful, flavour-forward tribute to Swedish tradition.

    Whether you're popping in for a spontaneous late-night bite (Hedvig stays open until midnight on weekdays and 1 AM on weekends) or settling in for a long, soulful dinner, every visit promises more than a meal. It’s a celebration of place, history, and the timeless joy of a beautifully set table.

    Come hungry. Leave with a new favourite culinary memory.
    www.restauranghedvig.se

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