• photography Ellinor Sjöberg 

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist 

    .

    all clothing Dr. Denim

    all underwear Sloggi

    Dr.Denim celebrates 20 years! An interview with founder Alexander Graah

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    This year, Gothenburg-based denim brand Dr. Denim celebrates 20 years of redefining casual fashion. We caught up with founder Alexander Graah to discuss how the brand went from indie beginnings to becoming a household name, gaining global attention with stars like Harry Styles, and what's next for their future.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Congratulations on 20 years of Dr.Denim! Please tell me a little about how it all started 20 years ago? What is your background and why did you found Dr.Denim?

    Alexander Graah: Dr. Denim was born in Gothenburg in 2004 as a true garage brand. Within years, the brand had become an explosively popular household name in its native Sweden, before subsequently going international. Now, twenty years since its founding, Dr. Denim products are sold across dozens of markets around the world and continues to produce some of the world’s finest denim garments at its price point.

    Dr. Denim was essentially born from the idea that we wanted to right some wrongs in the world of denim. With a focus on exceptional quality and longevity through craftsmanship and an obsessive attention to detail, we wanted to challenge the notion that you must pay through the nose to get hold of a great pair of jeans. I think it’s fair to say we were predestined to get into denim. My brother and I grew up around denim, collecting denim, breathing denim, and we’re third generation entrepreneurs in the fashion industry. We’re very much self-taught, never studied fashion design or anything like that – we’re both economists – but at the end of the day you get far by being determined and passionate about what you do.

    UL: I’ve heard that you are inspired by your father, Morten, what about him inspired you? 
    AG: Growing up in a family of small business owners teaches you something about being 100% committed to what you do, about the importance of building something independent that’s not subject to the whims of banks and venture capitalists who don’t care about what you do for a living. Morten is also the reason we encountered denim pretty much from birth. And he’s a bit of a weirdo, in a good way; he’s always taught us to go our own way and not care about what others think.

    UL: What would you say are the core values of Dr.Denim? 
    AG: The six of them are:
    Hard-working but easy-going
    Passionate
    Wry
    Unpretentious
    Honest & Authentic
    Detail-obsessed

    UL: Please tell us about the process in creating the FW24 collection?
    AG: Relatively speaking, our collections are timeless staple fits, so for us it’s a matter of spending time with our product developers reiterating until we have it right, tweaking fits, getting the little details right. There’s no shortcut. To celebrate 20 years in action, we’ve taken a deep dive into our archives to create anniversary pieces, a sort of a trip down memory lane with re-issues of denim and other things that brought us to where we are today. 

    You’ll find the return of our skinny straight unisex jean Snap which was launched in 2004 and quickly became the (un)official indie uniform of the 00’s and changed the Scandinavian denim landscape. We’re also releasing Dash - Stream Dry with detailing inspired by its 2004 ancestor, the Unagi. The point here is not to make a heritage denim product but to bring back some of the good stuff and provide a take on our not-so-brief history. The Annivarsity Jacket is exactly what it sounds like. A varsity jacket celebrating our anniversary, featuring artworks from past collections to celebrate what has been and will continue to be.

    UL: How would you describe the Dr.Denim customer?
    AG: Global consumers who appreciate responsible, long-lasting garments in ultra-modern but timeless fits at affordable price points. We have a pretty broad range of customers which is how it should be. Appealing to many, the brand has a two-way relationship with many denim-loving subcultures.

    UL: What have been the most challenging aspects these 20 years of Dr.Denim?
    AG: It’s inevitable that a lot of things happen over the course of 20 years. The entire landscape has changed. I mean, we used to work with a huge range of independent stores which are now long gone, replaced by e-commerce and highly complex logistics, so we’ve had to transform our business in a lot of ways which probably sounds easier than it is. These days, it sometimes feels as if we’re running a tech business as much as a denim business. What I mean by that is that fashion and craftsmanship are, of course, the core of what we do, but we’ve had to put enormous resources into tech around that core in order to thrive in the landscape as it looks today. 

    UL: Please tell us a memorable moment from these 20 years?
    AG: There was that one time when Harry Styles wore a pair of our jeans. It wasn’t a product placement or anything – just him choosing to wear jeans from an independent Swedish denim brand.

    UL: What are your plans for the future for Dr.Denim? 
    AGWe plan on continuing to do what we do because, by now, this is our way of life and part of our identity. As much as things have changed, we believe the need for what we do remains out there, not least with all those cheap disposable garments churned out by that site which shall not be named. Collectively we have to consume fewer and better things which don’t end up in a landfill after a few uses. I hope we can continue to inspire people in some small way to think about the purchases they make and appreciate the value of buying something that lasts.

    photography Ellinor Sjöberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Elva Ahlbin
    model Stella S / MIKAs

    all clothing Dr. Denim

    all underwear Sloggi

  • A Conversation with Frédéric Bondoux: Steering Grand Seiko's European Expansion and Balancing Tradition with Innovation

    Written by Jahwanna Berglund

    As the CEO of Grand Seiko in Europe, Frédéric Bondoux has played a pivotal role in expanding the brand’s presence across the continent. With a background in luxury watches and extensive experience managing international markets, Bondoux brings a unique perspective to one of Japan’s most prestigious watchmakers. In this interview with Odalisque Magazine, he reflects on his journey to Grand Seiko, shares his vision for the brand's future, and discusses how the company balances tradition with innovation while navigating an increasingly competitive luxury watch market.

    Can you share some highlights of your career journey and what led you to become the CEO of Grand Seiko?

    FB: I studied business administration in Lyon, France, and began my career with Omega in Switzerland, managing a part of the Asian market. After several years, I returned to France to lead Omega's French affiliate, where I stayed for 15 years. Later, I transitioned to L’Ochy, and through an interesting twist of fate, a former colleague who had joined Grand Seiko in the U.S. reached out to me. Grand Seiko was looking for someone to establish its European business, and given my experience with Japanese management, it was a natural fit.

    Can you share your vision for Grand Seiko over the next five to ten years? What key initiatives are you focusing on to achieve this vision?

    FB: Our focus is on positioning Grand Seiko as a brand that resonates with the new generation of luxury consumers. While immediate sales growth is important, the long-term goal in Europe is to build a lasting brand identity that appeals to younger customers. At 18 or 20, people are full of dreams, and we want Grand Seiko to be a brand they aspire to own when they can turn those dreams into reality.

    To achieve this, our primary focus is on the quality of the product. You can have the strongest marketing and campaigns, but if the product doesn’t live up to expectations, success will be short-lived. The lasting emotional connection that our products create with customers is key to our vision for the future.

    ​​What has been the most challenging aspect of leading Grand Seiko, and what achievement are you most proud of during your time?

    FB: I oversee Grand Seiko's operations across Europe, managing 20 territories with 16 different languages, 15 currencies, and nearly 20 local regulations. It's a complex environment with 110 high-end product sales, which presents unique challenges.

    The most important thing, however, is that success is impossible without a strong team. Building something meaningful starts with hiring the right people. To succeed, you need to bring in individuals who excel in their fields, often better than yourself. If you surround yourself with talented and brilliant people, you’ll succeed. That’s the foundation I’m most proud of establishing.

    Grand Seiko is known for its Spring Drive technology. Are there any upcoming innovations or enhancements in this area that you can share with us?

    FB: Yes, Spring Drive technology is truly unique. It took over 24 years to develop into the final product, with more than 600 patents and around 2,000 prototypes. The project began in 1974, and the first prototype was completed in 1988.

    Spring Drive is special—it’s a hybrid movement that doesn’t quite fit into traditional categories like quartz or mechanical. It’s something entirely different, and as we continue to innovate, Spring Drive will remain a key focus of our product development. While I can’t share specifics on what or when, new movements and features are definitely in the works.

    What do you see as the most significant trends in the luxury watch industry today, and how is Grand Seiko positioned to capitalize on these trends?

    FB: The luxury watch industry has evolved to where many brands, while excellent in their craftsmanship, have become more symbols of social status than purely timepieces. Their strong heritage and prestige have contributed to this perception.

    However, I believe a growing trend will be the rise of niche brands that focus more on the true art of watchmaking. This shift won’t replace the existing landscape but will add a new layer of appreciation for authentic craftsmanship. In this space, Grand Seiko is well-positioned to thrive. With our dedication to precision, innovation, and craftsmanship, we have a strong voice and a great opportunity to capture the attention of these discerning consumers.

    How does Grand Seiko balance the fine line between innovation and preserving traditional watchmaking techniques?

    FB: It's quite simple—we embrace a harmonious blend of modernity and tradition. Our foundation is deeply rooted in Japanese culture and heritage, where the pursuit of excellence drives everything we do. This commitment to being the best pushes us to invest heavily in research and development, which serves as our gateway to modernity.

    For example, our recently launched movements, such as the UAB movement and the new Spring Drive, reflect this balance. We've also introduced the Evolution 9 collection, designed specifically to engage younger generations. In this way, we create a seamless link between our historical roots and the future, marrying tradition with innovation.

    How do you see technological advancements, such as smartwatches, impacting the traditional watch industry, and what is Grand Seiko’s strategy in this context?

    FB: It's clear that we need to capture more wrist real estate, so to speak. However, smartwatches present an opportunity rather than a threat, especially because they target younger consumers. Once people become accustomed to wearing something on their wrist, they may eventually seek out something different, like a luxury timepiece. When that time comes, Grand Seiko is perfectly positioned to meet their needs with our craftsmanship and timeless appeal.

    How do you see the Grand Seiko brand evolving in the global luxury watch market, especially in the context of increasing competition and changing consumer preferences?

    FB: Currently, there isn't a truly global Japanese luxury brand—most are European, especially French, Italian, and English. Grand Seiko has a unique opportunity to fill that space, while also preserving the craftsmanship and “savoir-faire” of our talented artisans. Many traditional crafts are fading because there’s no one to carry on the legacy. We aim to preserve and showcase these exceptional skills, like our dial makers who create stunning designs inspired by nature—each one truly unique.

    With careful and modest effort, I believe Grand Seiko could one day become at the top as one of the global luxury brands from Japan. Our team in Europe is dedicated to contributing to this vision.
    I recall when we opened our boutique in Place Vendôme, Paris, just after the first lockdown. People were cautious, but the demand was clear. That day, a young man from Dubai, working in finance, visited the store. Though he owned other luxury watches—Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre—he didn’t have a Grand Seiko. After trying one on, I told him, “If you buy this, you’ll be our first customer at this boutique.” He did, and now each time he comes to Paris, he proudly tells his friends about being the first Grand Seiko customer in Place Vendôme. Moments like these mark the beginning of our journey toward becoming a global luxury name.

    In Stockholm, Sweden Grand Seiko is represented at Nymans Ur 1851 and Krons Ur.

    www.grand-seiko.com
    www.nymansur.com

  • Gazing Bodies - a daring exhibition by CFHILL

    Written by Natalia Muntean

    In CFHILL’s latest exhibition, Gazing Bodies, the interaction between the viewer and artwork takes centre stage. Curated by Caroline Wieckhorst, in collaboration with writer Lo Hallén, the exhibition showcases international superstars like Sarah Lucas, Karon Davis, and Kennedy Yanko alongside Swedish luminaries such as Karin Mamma Andersson and Charlotte Gyllenhammar. The show delves into the idea of the ‘gaze,’ drawing on psychoanalysis, and questioning how artworks can seem to “gaze back” at the viewer. As Hallén explains, “Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and the way we think and converse in their presence,” creating a sense of power reversal where “they clearly hold a certain power.”

    The venue, CFHILL’s new space at the Armémuseum, plays a vital role in elevating the experience, with its historical setting and innovative design. “We love this 18th-century space,” says Michael Storåkers, Executive Chairman, “its beautiful natural light enhances the appearance of the paintings and sculptures.” This unique combination of venue and curation offers a profound exploration of identity, perception, and how art influences its observers.


    We sat down for an interview with Michael Storåkers, Caroline Wieckhorst, and Lo Hallén about the curatorial decisions behind Gazing Bodies, the impact of their new venue, and how the exhibition challenges traditional perspectives on art and the gaze.

    Natalia Muntean: CFHILL recently shifted to working more like a gallery. How has this new approach influenced how you curate exhibitions like Gazing Bodies?
    Michael Storåkers:
    We always wanted to bring the most exciting artists from all over the world to CFHILL, which is still the case, and we still work with the brightest external, international curators to make it happen. In Gazing Bodies, we combined some global stars we have worked with before, such as Paloma Varga Weisz, Klara Kristalova, and Kennedy Yanko, with Sarah Lucas and Karon Davis, together with some amazing Swedish artists we represent like a traditional gallery – among them Charlotte Gyllenhammar, Marie-Louise Ekman and Martina Muntzing.

    NM: With the move to the Armémuseum, how has the new venue shaped the experience of displaying artworks? Did the space's historical or architectural elements affect your curation decisions?
    MS:
    We love this 18th-century space; how you enter from the grand courtyard and dive right into the art. Its look is a take on the white cube, created by our three architects led by Valentin Nordström, which combines an innovative wall system with the historical setting. The space receives beautiful natural light from different directions, enhancing the appearance of the paintings and sculptures. The co-curators, Caroline Wieckhorst and Lo Hallén worked with the space to heighten the feeling that the artworks by the 22 artists gaze back at visitors.

    NM: What new things have come with your new way of working and the venue change? How do these changes benefit both the artists and the audience?
    MS:
    We wanted to move away from our previous ‘headquarter-style’ space and shift towards a more classic gallery venue. Now, we are in multiple locations throughout the year, participating in art fairs and similar events. Being CFHILL, we, of course, still aimed for something truly impactful, and I believe we’ve achieved the best of both worlds.

    Regarding this show, I think the white cube structure, the focus on the art in this space, and the beautiful natural light and historical setting support the artists and the audience in this Gazing Bodies experience.

    NM: The exhibition is called Gazing Bodies. Can you explain how the idea of the ‘gaze’ works in this exhibition, especially with the artworks being seen as if they have their personalities?
    Lo Hallén:
    I understand the interpretation of the exhibition text as suggesting that artworks possess personalities, but I wouldn’t use that specific word. To me, it imposes our odd human subjectivity onto them – haha. Instead, for the show, we thought of them as distinct entities with their own desires and demands, which we can't fully access or comprehend. Yet, they directly influence us as viewers. Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and think and converse in their presence. They clearly hold a certain power. It can evoke a sensation of being watched – the artwork gazing back – especially when a piece depicts or is reminiscent of a body.

    NM: You’ve included artists from both Sweden and other countries. How did you choose these specific artists, and how do their works connect to the exhibition’s theme?
    Caroline Wieckhorst:
    It’s been a privilege to work with these amazing artists and their artistry. A key for us has been finding a great mix and balance of art with different expressions and mediums that communicate with and challenge each other and us as viewers. Works that, in different ways, have their own gaze and agency, interacting with our emotions, challenging our perspectives and sometimes what we might take for granted or know to be true. How we interpret the artworks is individual, and this is the point – to shift the focus from how the artists, curators, and critics intend for the art to be interpreted and, instead, how the art itself makes us react and feel.

    For instance, an artwork that very literally gazes back at me is Ulla Wiggen’s eye, Iris. With its ice-blue colour, it’s hard not to feel watched and pierced through your inner thoughts. But is this how you would interpret or feel about this work? And Karon Davis’ sculpture Echo & Narcissus: Looking Glass, speaks to me about the fragility of life, with the plaster that is lightly pieced together and at the same time it holds a certain power and grace, that makes me act with a high sense of respect around it. Paloma Varga Weisz’s large bronze sculptures, Wilde Leute, make me want to hang and sit with them, despite their intimidating size. And Charlotte Gyllenhammar’s child sculpture, Beholder, makes me wonder what she is thinking of and how I best approach her. While Marie-Louise Ekman’s huge floor piece, 30 bilder, with her characteristic comic strip motif, makes me break the rules and let loose my inner side, walking all over the piece and acting more like a rebel. Or at least, trying to.

    LH: As Caroline mentioned, we aimed to create a thematic show where various aesthetics and perspectives are represented, with the body as a central theme. Some pieces are abstract, others figurative, but to me, they all convey a sense of the body. For example, Kennedy Yanko’s sculptural work using scrap metal and a material she calls paint skin – formed by pouring large amounts of paint onto a flat surface, which is then shaped and manipulated as it begins to dry – to me says something about what it is like to inhabit a body. It’s perfectly balanced yet also twisted and strange, pieced together in an oddly familiar way. Some parts of the work speak to me in more subtle and ambiguous ways, but this only strengthens its impact. Not everyone will interact with it this way, and it’s not an “intended” reaction, but that’s why we wanted the show so rich. I hope that at least one piece in the show will challenge, unsettle, or make each viewer feel self-conscious.

    NM: The exhibition suggests that the artworks might be ‘looking back’ at the viewers. How do you think people will feel about this idea of being observed by the artworks?
    CW:
    Aren’t we always being watched or observed? I think and hope that it might open up new ideas about who or what is watching us, and what this might mean to us. Being watched or observed, might not always mean Big Brother is watching. Like I mentioned previously, Wiggen’s work makes me feel watched and pierced through my inner thoughts, but someone else might think of it as a protector, or companion, making them feel less alone.

    LH: In the show, some artworks, like Karin Mamma Andersson’s About a Girl and Arvida Byström’s Clown, or Wiggen’s Iris that Caroline mentioned, feature piercing stares that demand a direct engagement from viewers and create a distinct sensation of being watched. The theme might not be intuitive for everyone, but I think it’s the experience many of us have when observing images and objects. W.J.T. Mitchell’s book What Do Pictures Want? was a big inspiration for the show’s theme, particularly his exploration of the power of images beyond traditional semiotic or rhetorical interpretations.

    NM: You mention ideas from feminist theory and psychoanalysis in the exhibition. How did these ideas shape the way you put the show together?
    LH:
    The feminist theory mentioned serves more as a background for the popularisation of the idea of the gaze. For the show's theme, we attempted to explore it in different ways. Many theories of the gaze aren’t focused on gendered power dynamics. I believe that allowing them space outside of academia benefits both art and feminism in the long run.

    Laura Mulvey’s influential essay “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema” appropriated psychoanalysis to highlight how visual media reinforces societal power structures. While this essay has been pivotal for art, film, and gender studies, it has also been said to focus too heavily on a specific interpretation of the gaze, steering away from other significant aspects. It’s not an issue with the essay, obviously, but rather a result of its popularity. For this show, we tried to engage with those other dimensions, though freely and associatively.

    CW: Feminist theories have served a great purpose in lifting questions of inequalities within the art scene (and other areas). If we can contribute to the continued work for feminism in art, by adding to the perspectives, lifting issues of how we value art, and using a different approach, it’s a big bonus for me.

    NM: Some of the artworks in Gazing Bodies look like human bodies and have qualities that feel both familiar and strange. How do you think these qualities help viewers reflect on themselves?
    LH:
    We found it interesting to work with motifs we initially reflect ourselves in, only to discover they are much more than mirrors. Perhaps the best way to reflect on oneself is to experience the fragmented parts of our identities without trying to piece them together, and instead rest in the strangeness. I think art, in general, helps with that.

    NM: The exhibition talks about the struggle between what we can understand and what we can’t when we look at art. How do the artworks show this tension, and what do you want people to take away from that experience?
    CW:
    I hope the exhibition will unlock questions and evoke emotions that last even after people leave the exhibition space. If we can make this happen, I think we’ve succeeded. For me, it's not so much about debating what we comprehend and what we don't, but rather about gaining new insights into how we perceive art and how art influences us. How do we react to, or interact with, art? Does it make us aware of our movements, thoughts or how we talk?

    LH: Personally, I find it important not to try to fully grasp an artwork through thought, or language, alone. If that is a sufficient approach, the piece should be a text rather than a visual work. Ideally, the artworks will reveal themselves in unique ways to different viewers, highlighting various aspects, making it an intimate and individual experience around a common theme.

Pages