• Costume Photography 2024
    © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.

    Leigh Bowery! Tate Modern Unveils a Bold Tribute to the Iconic Performer

    Written by Maya Avram by Nicole Miller

    Earlier this week, swarms of press flooded Tate Modern’s third floor, excitedly assembled for the preview of the museum’s latest exhibition, Leigh Bowery! Chronicling the late performer’s artistic practice in 80s and 90s London, it brings to the fore Bowery’s undeniable influence on pop culture as we know it today. “As an artist, he embodies much of what Tate Modern exists for, really; performance, reinvention, experimentation — in short, reimagining ways of seeing the world,” said Karin Hindsbo, Director of Tate Modern, as we embarked on a tour of the curated space.

    Closely entwined with London’s underground scene, Bowery has famously harnessed hedonism and subversion to challenge the banal. A performer, dancer, model, TV personality, fashion designer and musician, his provocative performance art was designed as a form of activism, encouraging people to push boundaries and encourage their reflection on life.

    The show space’s layout emulates Bowery’s chronological journey into the public eye, with each room symbolising a different part of the making of his persona. And so, the first room marks “the home”, the safe place where he (and his friends) assumed their character. It features some of his first-ever fashion designs, including gimp-inspired head masks, and other iconic motifs such as his synonymous polka-dot print.

    Then you step into “the club,” the gritty setting where his eccentric appearance became an aesthetic that urged onlookers to question the why and how they live. Set against the backdrop of Thatcher’s England, Bowery’s rebellion against conformity peaked with the opening of his club Taboo in 1985. The exhibition displays more than 20 of the intricate costumes he designed and hand-crafted, many with collaborator Nicola Rainbird and corsetier Mr Pearl.

    Bowery’s close friendship with renowned artist Lucian Freud marked a turning point in the former’s relationship with the contemporary art world. Now a subject in his own right, Bowery was depicted by Freud in the nude, bare of all embellishments to offer a fresh view of this flamboyant performer. This was a natural evolution of Bowery’s use of his body as raw material, notably stating that “flesh is the most fabulous fabric.”

    The exhibition culminates with Bowery’s foray into music with his band Minty. Uniting his love of performance, shock value and humour, it enabled him to push the limits of the human form while reimagining ideas around gender and drag culture. Bowery’s final performance at London’s Freedom Café in November 1994 was attended by long-term collaborator Lucian Freuda and a young Alexander McQueen, revealing how far-reaching his influence extended in the worlds of art and fashion.

    “I cannot think of a better way to launch our 25th anniversary programme than with a celebration of Leigh Bowery,” concluded Hindsbo. We couldn’t agree more.

    Leigh Bowery! Will run from 27 February to 31 August 2025, at Tate Modern, Bankside, London.

    Dick Jewell Still from What's Your Reaction to the Show
    1988 © Dick Jewell.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Costume Photography 2024 © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.
    Dave Swindells, Limelight: Leigh Bowery
    1987 © Dave Swindells.
    Dave Swindells, Daisy Chain at the Fridge
    Jan '88: Leigh & Nicola © Dave Swindells.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 1 Look 2 1988 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 19 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 17 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 3 Look 14 August 1990 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 8 Look 38, June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 7 Look 37 June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Charles Atlas, Still from Mrs Peanut Visits New York
    1999 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist and
    Luhring Augustine, New York.
    Charles Atlas, Still from Because We Must
    1989 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist
    and Luhring Augustine, New York.
  • images courtesy of HUGO

    HUGO Introduces Next-Level Tailoring in Spring/Summer 2025 for a New Generation of Bold Style

    Written by Fashion Tales

    In its Spring/Summer 2025 global brand campaign, HUGO flips the script on tailoring. Photographed by Dan Jackson under the creative direction of Trey Laird and his agency, Team Laird, the focus is on flexible, infinitely adaptable suiting. This full-year campaign will unfold in two chapters: Chapter 1 this Spring/Summer, followed by Chapter 2 in Fall/Winter.

    In Chapter 1, HUGO captures a youthful maverick as he navigates a series of red rooms. The styling of his sharply cut suit evolves from classic and timeless, to offbeat and inspired, combined with a snug tank top, a chunky leather boot, a boldly printed short-sleeved shirt, and tailored shorts. His looks are inspired by the concept of The GO Suit: a new, very HUGO approach to building a go-to tailored wardrobe for every aesthetic and occasion.

    In womenswear, we meet a heroine in a sleek white three-piece suit in the red rooms. The camera zooms in on the details: a bold belt, a strappy heel, the cropped cut of a vest, highlighting the adaptability of HUGO's tailoring for all genders, and celebrating the individuality of the person inside the suit: recharging the brand's motto, “HUGO Your Way” as a true statement for self-expression.

    The “go your way” narrative of the campaign also underscores the brand's commitment to a better fashion industry. Enter: HUGO FORWARD, a new platform showcasing HUGO's innovative, technology-driven approach to design. HUGO FORWARD pieces will carve a path of transformational exploration, following the mantra, “You've got to keep moving to stay ahead of the game.”

    HUGO FORWARD's first drop arrives this season: three tailored styles created with plant- based HeiQ AeoniQTM, a groundbreaking cellulose yarn made from wood pulp that rivals the performance properties of polyester. A modular constellation of menswear suit separates, including a single-breasted blazer, casual jacket, and trousers, all in timeless black, these HeiQ AeoniQTM and wool-blend pieces can be worn matched or clashed, smart or casual. Further cementing HUGO's status as a tailoring pioneer, these are the first-ever suiting separates crafted with this fiber to go to market.

    images courtesy of HUGO
  • photography Kristian Bengtsson 

    Shaping Light and Space: Morgan Persson’s Journey from Color to Cosmic Inspiration

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Renowned glass artist Morgan Persson has spent years pushing the boundaries of his craft. In this interview, he shares the creative process behind his latest collection, The Milky Way, and the inspiration drawn from the vastness of space. He also reflects on memorable projects, the challenges of working with glass, and his vision for the future of his art.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Can you share a bit about your beginnings—how did you first start working with glass?

    Morgan Persson: I first discovered glass in my early twenties, and it was a life-changing moment. At the time, I was working as a car painter and playing volleyball at an elite level. One winter evening, I had what I can only describe as a sudden epiphany: I had to dedicate my life to glass. It was a completely unexpected turn, but I followed the impulse, left my job, and enrolled at Glasskolan in Orrefors. That was the beginning of an obsession with mastering every aspect of glassmaking.

    UL: For your latest collection, The Milky Way, you’ve created monochrome sculptures, which marks a shift from your historical focus on color. Could you tell us about this transition and the inspiration behind the collection?

    MP: The Milky Way is a departure for me. I’m known for my bold use of color, but this time, I felt drawn to creating something entirely in white. I could picture the pieces before they existed, these “space stones” with a celestial quality. The inspiration came from thinking about stargazing, galaxies, and the vastness of space. It was a challenge to step out of my comfort zone and embrace minimalism, but it
    was also exciting to explore how the optical effects of white opal glass could evoke depth and movement.

    UL: You collaborated with master glassblower Peter Kuchinke on this collection. How does such a partnership work, and what are the dynamics of your creative collaboration?

    MP: Working with Peter Kuchinke was an inspiring experience. He’s a master craftsman with an incredible knowledge of glassblowing techniques. Collaborations like this are all about trust and communication. I brought my ideas and vision, and he brought his expertise and technical skill.

    Together, we experimentedand solved challenges,like achieving the desired effects in the opal glass. These partnerships are a mix of structured planning and spontaneous problem-solving, which keeps the process dynamic and rewarding.

    UL: What is your personal relationship with space? Are you fascinated by it, do you fear it, and would you ever consider space travel?

    MP: I’m deeply fascinated by space. It represents both mystery and endless possibilities, and it inspires me to think about perspective, how small we are in the grand scheme of things. While I find it inspiring, I don’t think I’d personally venture into space. I prefer exploring the unknown from a grounded, creative perspective.

    UL: Can you describe your creative process—do you plan and sketch in advance, or do you prefer to improvise? Additionally, what unique challenges or limitations does working with glass present?

    MP: My process is a mix of planning and improvisation. I start with an idea or a vision, which I might sketch or just hold in my mind. Once I begin working with the glass, I let the material guide me. Glass is unpredictable, it changes with heat, reacts to different techniques, and demands precision. One challenge is timing; you have to make quick decisions before the glass cools, but that’s also what makes it so exhilarating. I enjoy the balance between controlling the material and allowing it to take its own form.

    UL: Are there any particular projects or moments in your career that stand out as especially memorable?

    MP: There are several, but one that stands out is the moment I first experimented with recycled glass in collaboration with Leif Hauge. Creating glass objects from seized smuggled alcohol bottles for Tullverket was both challenging and rewarding, it pushed me to think differently about sustainability and design. Another memorable moment was when my family and I moved to Småland to start my own hot shop. That transition marked a new chapter in my career and creative journey.

    UL: What does a typical workday in your life look like?

    MP: My day usually starts early in the morning with preparation in the glass studio. Depending on the project, I might spend hours blowing, fine-tuning details or working in the cold shop on grinding and polishing. Running a family business means I also wear many hats, managing the showroom, or hosting visitors. It’s busy, but I love the variety and the chance to immerse myself in every part of the
    process.

    UL: Looking ahead, what’s next for you? And if you could embark on your ultimate dream project, what would it be?

    MP: I’m always looking for new ways to push the boundaries of what glass can do. After The Milky Way, I’d like to explore working with larger formats and experimenting more with sandcasting techniques. I’m particularly interested in creating monumental public artworks that could combine glass with other materials. Collaborating with a team on a large-scale project, it offers an opportunity to blend expertise and creativity, which often leads to surprising and powerful results. For now, I’ll keep experimenting and trusting my instincts, as they’ve always been my best guide.

    photography Daniel Lindh 

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