• photography Patrick Demarchelier Trunk Archive / Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum
    text Natalia Muntean
    Interview with Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimovic

    Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa: A Celebration of Sculptural Fashion

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Nicole Miller

    From October 10, 2024, to March 16, 2025, Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum in Stockholm is hosting Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa, an exhibition showcasing the iconic creations of one of fashion’s most legendary figures. Known for his uncompromising approach and ability to blend fashion with sculpture, Azzedine Alaïa carved out a unique space in the world of haute couture, creating designs that transcend trends and timelines.

    From his early days as a young Tunisian sculptor to his rise as a celebrated couturier in Paris, Alaïa’s journey was marked by an extraordinary dedication to his craft, producing collections that continue to inspire designers and fashion lovers alike. This exhibition serves as both a tribute to Alaïa’s enduring legacy and an exploration of the art of couture, where fabric meets form in perfect harmony.

    We had the pleasure of speaking with Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimović, CEO of Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, about the significance of this exhibition and how it reflects the visionary talent of a designer who revolutionised the fashion industry with his bold, sculptural silhouettes and timeless designs.

    Natalia Muntean: How did the idea to bring Azzedine Alaïa’s work to the Nordics for the first time come about, and what inspired this collaboration with the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation?
    Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimović:     The idea to exhibit Azzedine Alaïa's work to the Nordics for the first time originated from a desire to showcase his iconic influence and craftsmanship to new audiences. I have long admired Azzedine Alaïa’s work and design, and, along with others, consider him one of the most influential fashion designers of all time. The craftsmanship, the strong silhouettes, and the way women wearing his clothes are empowered, not objectified, has always inspired me.

    The collaboration with the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa was inspired by a shared vision to highlight the artistry and timeless nature of his couture creations, as well as to celebrate his lasting legacy in the fashion world. I am so excited to open the doors and welcome our visitors to this truly extraordinary exhibition.

    NM: Can you tell us about the process of selecting the haute couture garments for the exhibition? What criteria were used to handpick these pieces?
    DKM: Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum has worked closely with the curator and fashion historian Olivier Saillard from the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa, which preserves Alaïas archives and legacy.

    We are showcasing forty iconic pieces spanning his four-decade career as a designer, from one of his earliest designs in the 80s to pieces from his very last runway show in 2017, just a few months before he suddenly passed away. In the exhibition “Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa,” visitors will step into the world of haute couture and get to know the fashion genius Azzedine Alaïa through his tailoring artistry. In subtly crafted creations, Alaïa highlights the duality of clothing as both couture and sculpture.

    In bringing this exhibition to the Nordics, we aimed to share Alaïa’s body of work and his iconic sculptural design.

    NM: Azzedine Alaïa was known for his unique combination of fashion and sculpture. How does the exhibition design at Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum enhance the sculptural quality of his creations?
    DKM: The exhibition design will be intentionally minimalist, allowing the couture pieces to take centre stage. Each elegant couture form is showcased on specially crafted mannequins by Alaïa himself. The shape and measurements of the mannequins were inspired by the figures of his favourite models, including Naomi Campbell, who was a very close friend and muse. Visitors will have the opportunity to explore the subtle and distinctive details up close in his iconic designs and experience the sculptural tailoring that made Alaïa a pioneer in the fashion world. 

    NM: What challenges did the museum face in curating this exhibition, especially considering the delicate nature of haute couture garments?
    DKM: The whole process and collaboration with the team at Foundation Azzedine Alaïa and us has been inspirational and very creative. They have been very supportive of our ideas. Also, the trust and respect we have in our curator Olivier Saillard’s experience and knowledge have been crucial for this exhibition and selection of garments. The dresses have been prepared by highly skilled conservators at the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa and are carefully dressed on specially made mannequins.

    NM: Alaïa’s designs have been worn by iconic figures like Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, and Michelle Obama. How does this exhibition reflect the influence his creations had on both the fashion industry and pop culture?

    DKM: This exhibition reflects that influence by showcasing the transformative power of his couture, which blends impeccable craftsmanship with bold, sculptural silhouettes. Alaïa's ability to empower women through his designs has played a significant role in shaping modern fashion. As a curiosity, he also designed for the legendary Greta Garbo.

    Azzedine Alaïa's work transcended the traditional boundaries of fashion, blending art, sculpture, and couture to create designs that celebrated beauty and individuality.

    His unique creations and sculptural silhouettes celebrating the female body made him world-famous. Alaïa’s creations not only set new standards in haute couture, but also became synonymous with cultural moments, worn by women who shaped the worlds of culture, entertainment, politics, and fashion. His legacy, seen through this exhibit, illustrates how his work continues to inspire designers, celebrities, and fashion lovers worldwide. 

    NM: Alaïa famously had no formal fashion education, yet he became one of the most celebrated couturiers. How does this exhibition celebrate his unconventional path to success?
    DKM: Azzedine Alaïa was an autodidact, mastering the art of design without formal fashion education. His unique approach to fashion design was deeply influenced by his background in sculpture. Born in Tunisia in 1934, he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Tunis, where he honed his sculptural skills. This artistic background profoundly shaped his approach as a couturier. Unlike many designers who begin with sketches, Alaïa worked directly with fabric on the body, treating it as a sculptor would clay. His artistic vision and ambition would eventually drive him to Paris in 1956 to work in French haute couture, an industry then still dominated by Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. With his great talent, Alaïa acquired the necessary professional skills on his own and cultivated a loyal following of clients.

    By showcasing his masterpieces in the exhibition at Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, we want to honour Alaïa's extraordinary journey to the pinnacle of the fashion industry. His exceptional artistic vision and relentless dedication propelled him from humble beginnings in Tunisia to the world of Parisian haute couture. His unwavering commitment to his client, unmatched talent and warm personality earned him friends and admirers across the globe.

    photography John Scarisbrick / Sven Harrys-Konstmuseum
    photography John Scarisbrick / Sven Harrys Konstmuseum

    photography Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum

  • photography Daniela Spiroska

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist

    hair & makeup Wanda Persson

    model Zebastian/Mikas

    Refined Elegance: Edwin Nenzell on Rose & Born’s Legacy and Vision for the Future

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Founded in 1989 in Stockholm, Rose & Born has been a cornerstone of modern menswear, blending Scandinavian aesthetics with classic tailoring traditions. In this exclusive interview, Edwin Nenzell, Partner and Buying Director, shares insights into the brand’s origins, creative processes, and its mission to offer timeless sophistication with a personal touch. From the challenges of navigating the fast-paced fashion industry to opening an international store in Zürich, Edwin reflects on the journey and future aspirations of this iconic brand.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Can you share how Rose & Born was founded and the inspiration behind its creation?

    Edwin Nenzell: Rose & Born was founded in 1989 in Stockholm with a vision to offer contemporary menswear rooted in classic tailoring traditions. The inspiration came from a desire to provide proper personal experiences as we redefine modern elegance. Today that means combining Scandinavian aesthetics and values with the craftsmanship of traditional menswear. We want to create a space where our customers find clothing that blends sophistication, quality, and a sense of individuality. Over the years, this mission has evolved, but the essence remains the same: being available to help our customers look and feel confident in every setting.

    UL: What is your background, and how did it influence your decision to collaborate with Rose & Born?

    EN: My background is deeply rooted in menswear. Having worked in the business for many years, I early developed a passion for fine tailoring and an appreciation for the nuances of men’s style.

    Joining Rose & Born felt like a natural step — it was an opportunity to combine my understanding of menswear with a platform that values craftsmanship, personal service and understated elegance. After a few years at Rose & Born , I became a partner of the company and today I oversee the buying and made-to-measure services.

    UL: How would you describe the dynamic of working with your team at Rose & Born?

    ED: The dynamic is one of collaboration, a mutual vision, and a shared passion for what we do. We are a small, dedicated team that thrives on creativity, attention to detail, and a commitment to our customers. Everyone has different backgrounds and brings unique perspectives, and our open dialogue helps us continually refine and evolve the brand. The trust and clear understanding of what we’re trying to achieve is essential to maintaining the brand's integrity and vision.

    UL: What are the three core values that define Rose & Born as a brand?

    EN:

    Personal Service: Building genuine relationships with our customers and offering tailored experiences that make them feel seen and valued.

    Craftsmanship: A relentless focus on quality and the artistry behind every garment.

    Timelessness: Designing pieces that transcend trends and remain relevant for years to come.

    UL: Can you take us through the creative process behind your latest collection?

    EN: Our creative process always begins with a consideration of the past and what’s essential for both style and comfort today. We explore themes that align with our brand DNA — contemporary elegance and functionality.

    For the Fall Winter 2024 collection, we drew inspiration from the nature and landscapes of Sweden and Switzerland. Many times they are as understated as our collections. One can see clear connections both in the colour palette of the garments but also the focus on functionality with garments focusing on being wearable in these climates. I would say all our collections are crafted to seamlessly transition between different occasions. We have a great permanent assortment as well which is meticulously tested and improved, ensuring each garment lives up to our standards before it reaches our customers.

    UL: How would you describe the ideal Rose & Born customer?

    EN: In a year we meet all sorts of customers, and they are all very different individuals. For us that is the most important start, understanding the customers’ needs and wants. But trying to define the ideal Rose & Born customer, I would say it’s someone who values quality, and personal style and has a long-term relationship with their wardrobe.

    UL: What have been the biggest challenges you’ve encountered while building Rose & Born?

    EN: I would say the pace of the fashion industry. Maintaining a commitment to our core values has always been important to us while adapting to new customer needs — such as incorporating e-commerce, expanding internationally, and navigating quick changes in shopping behaviour — has required constant learning and adaptation. However, these challenges have also been opportunities to grow and refine our identity.

    UL: Can you share a memorable moment from your years at Rose & Born?

    EN: What comes to mind first is opening our second physical store, which we did in Zürich last December. Seeing our vision resonate with a new international audience and succeed in the way we imagined is incredibly rewarding. It truly reflects the years of dedication to developing this company into what it is today.  It also reinforced our belief that there is a global appetite for what we envision Rose & Born being – uncompromising quality and effortless quality with the personal experience at centre stage.

    UL: What are your future goals and aspirations for Rose & Born?

    EN: Our goal is to continue growing our global presence while staying true to our core values. We aim to enhance our digital experience and grow our physical presence. Making the online business as seamless and refined as our in-store services is key to achieving this. Ultimately, we want to deepen our relationship with our customers worldwide, offering them garments and experiences that embody the values of Rose & Born.

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