Eyes on: October
After a prolonged summer break, we’re back with the best of fashion, beauty and lifestyle.
text Maya Avram, London Features Editor
Tate Britain’s The 90s: Art and Fashion
This month marked the opening of Tate Britain’s most anticipated exhibition of the year, The 90s: Art and Fashion. Arguably the most nostalgic era of our time, the decade is a cultural curator’s dream, characterised by a raw, candid artistic language shaped by the social and political currents of 1990s Britain. The show attempts to trace how that backdrop informed the gritty glamour and irreverent spirit of its time, and how their influence continues to resonate with new generations three decades later. Curated by Edward Enninful, OBE, and supported by McQueen, it covers several tenets that together define the decade’s aesthetic, from the minimalist to the bold and even the macabre.
And while iconic markers of the time, like Lee McQueen’s Joan of Arc dress or Nick Knight’s era-defining editorial, Fashion-Able? successfully transport you into the 90s zeitgeist, I have to agree with critics who assert that the exhibition lacks bite. Superficial in its thesis, it fails to properly contextualise or critique fashion’s most glorified era through a fresh lens. If we are examining the mundane messiness of Corinne Day’s photography and learning about the disheartening reality of gender-based violence in 90s nightclubs, how come John Galliano’s designs are showcased without an ounce of criticism? In this day and age, when institutions like the Metropolitan Museum wash their hands of the disgraced designer, this seems especially pertinent. Viewing the collection raised more questions than it answered, primarily: what story is Tate Britain trying to tell?
Still, while the curators’ commentary leaves much to be desired, the space and artwork alone justify a visit. From eternal muses Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell to Juergen Teller and David Sims, it is a feast for the eyes for any fan of the industry and its long-standing titans.
image courtesy Nick Knight, SHOW studio
image courtesy Tory Burch
Embroideries at Tory Burch
Fashion Month may be done and done, but now is the time when insiders put their heads down to process everything they’ve seen and distill the key trends for the season. In that vein, one of my personal favourites this season was Tory Burch’s presentation, from a brand that is slowly but surely garnering attention for the re-energised, confident yet utterly feminine collections it continues to create. Specifically, I loved the intricate embroideries developed by the brand’s in-house team, which tap into trends of romantic classicism and opulent grandeur. Dresses and cardigans looked as if they’d been picked straight from Victorian times, but instead, we luck out and get to wear them with pencil skirts and ballerinas. Just as Tory intended.
Dusklight by Aurra
In a fragrance landscape where niche is often equated with taste, artisanal perfumery continues to carve out its own space. I first discovered Aurra last year, when I met its founder, Apneet Sandhu, at an industry event. She told me all about her journey into alcohol-free perfumery after experiencing irritation from regular blends. Her search for gentler concoctions led her back to her Indian roots and the tradition of attars, which are highly concentrated, intricately layered perfume oils renowned for their lasting power. Dusklight is the brand’s latest addition to the permanent collection, a perfectly autumnal blend of soothing lavender and smoky oud. Evoking a cocooning warmth inspired by “the hush just after sunset”, it’s perfect for the season – and for your skin
image courtesy Aurra
image courtesy Aesthetically perfect
Clear & Brilliant Treatment at Aesthetically Perfect
It’s hard to believe, but with the year coming to an end, it’s almost time to think about party prep. If you’re on the lookout for a treatment that clears, balances and regenerates the skin ahead of a season of glitzy soirées and festive dinners, the Clear & Brilliant facial at Aesthetically Perfect is the one, hands down. A fractional laser, it creates hundreds of thousands of microscopic treatment zones in the upper layers of the skin, encouraging cell turnover and improving tone, texture and overall radiance.
Admittedly, the pin-prick sensation can be painful and cause some temporary redness and swelling. But take it from someone who reviews such treatments for a living: that mild discomfort was nothing – nothing – compared to how glowing and luminous my skin looked just a few days later. A month on, I was still getting compliments on my complexion. This was much aided by the clinic’s Skin ampules, which harness ceramides and hyaluronic acid at a concentration of 20% to support skin healing. The rich serum they dispense is surprisingly lightweight yet instantly revitalising. I’ve now got into the habit of using them as weekly face masks, and my complexion has never been happier.
La Prairie Swiss Pristine
On the topic of at-home routines, one of the most exciting launches this summer was La Prairie’s new Swiss Pristine collection. Comprising an essence, a serum and a moisturiser, each product in the line-up was formulated with the brand’s proprietary HyPower LP52 technology and Cellular Complex, designed to strengthen and improve the resilience of stressed skin. I have been using the collection for the past two months and, to my delight, my sensitive skin took to it quickly. The formulas keep my skin hydrated throughout the day, feeling rich and enveloping without weighing it down. They have also complemented the results of my Clear & Brilliant facial, helping to sustain that glow for weeks afterwards. An editor’s favourite in the making.
image courtesy La Prairie
