• photography Jheyda McGarrell

    STRIKE THE ROOT, In Conversation with Destinee Ross-Sutton x Unapologetic Womxn

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Destinee Ross-Sutton rose to prominence in the Black art scene during the 2020/21 season, thanks to her remarkable curation of three groundbreaking exhibitions. Her first exhibition, ‘Black Voices/Black Microcosm,’ was held in Stockholm in partnership with CFHILL. It was the only physical exhibition that opened during the global Covid pandemic and closed just 13 days before George Floyd’s senseless killing, which sparked the worldwide BLM movement. The second exhibition, titled ‘Black Voices: Friend of My Mind,’ was held in New York, marking her inaugural gallery show in the city. Finally, she curated the ‘Say it Loud’ series at Christie’s New York, which further solidified her position as a leading voice in Black art. All at a pivotal moment when interest in art from the African diaspora truly commenced, these visionary exhibitions not only contributed to but also came to help redefine the artistic canon and inspired othersnto expand the art world’s commitment to artists of colour. Since then, living between New York and Stockholm, Ross-Sutton has continued to curate and advise independently.

    Known to be an artist’s advocate, a tastemaker, someone who discovers new talent and gives particularly young and underrepresented artists of colour and/or female artists a chance by either exhibiting their work for the first time or by giving them their international debuts. She is an activist in the art world who fights for artists’ rights. Since 2021, she has been implementing resale restrictions in her sale agreements. This has become more of a norm as artists have put pressure on their galleries to implement it, particularly when the gallery fails to recognize its importance in providing for an orderly resale market for the artist’s works of art. Ross-Sutton internationally debuted Khari Turner during the 59th Venice Biennale, co-curated the exhi- bition ‘4000+ Years of African Art’ at the Wall House Museum on St. Barths, and is the muse of several heavy hitters in the genre such as Kehinde Wiley, Derrick Adams, Amoako Boafo, and Tim Okamura, who were inspired by Destinee the individual, the woman and her dedication and work in the arts, trying to make a difference.

    Like Wiley, whose artist residency, Black Rock Senegal, welcomes artists to Dakar, Ross-Sutton is planning to develop an artist retreat on her property in South Africa. Hoping to open in 2025, the retreat will continue her mission to “allow artists to truly be themselves so that others may see them more clearly in the work.” It will be an extension of her foundation Black Artist Collective which helps promote and support young and emerging African, LGTBQ+ artists, and female artists. Her latest exhibition ‘Unapologetic WomXn: The Dream is the Truth’ presents thirty-three artists investigating female sexuality through their own eyes. The exhibition, her second to take place concurrently with the Venice Biennale, is hosted by the European Cultural Center and will be on view at Palazzo Bembo from April 20 to November 24, 2024. We caught up with 28-year-old Ross-Sutton during FRIEZE LA. Apart from visiting the fair, she advises several private institutions, international collectors, and organisations on acquisitions of particularly but not exclusively contemporary African and African American art. During our conversation, I under- stood that artists are central to Ross-Sutton, and it is rare to meet someone willing to place the artist first.

    I am pretty much the complete opposite of, I don’t know, 95% of the individuals at these art fairs,” Ross-Sutton says laughingly. She wears colourful braids and describes herself as a young pansexual Black woman. “I was 23 when I closed my first six-figure deal at Art Basel Miami. It was incredible to place a Yinka Shonibare sculpture and a Deborah Roberts collage with a foundation” she tells me about how she started in the art world. Born in 1995 in Harlem, New York like the young Black girl in another one of Roberts’ works, “This American Life”—Ross-Sutton explains that growing up in Harlem in the 90s and 2000s was not easy, and she was marked by the violence on the streets and in the news. In 2016 she quit her journalism studies, disillusioned by the sensationalist media of then and today. Pursuing an art career, she felt, would give her a better chance to impact people’s minds. She was determined to curate exhibitions with a message to better society as it turns out this has sometimes come to centre her own experiences, and finding them mirrored in the artists whose work she exhibits. When we talk about the shoot for Odalisque, she tells me she doesn’t feel comfortable in front of the camera. “The photographer Jheyda McGarrell is a friend and he helped me relax we had a lot of fun with it” she continues. Ross-Sutton is a person with gravitas. She is opinionated, and measured, not over the top and decidedly modest. A web search yields event photos of her looking sharply clad in designer outfits and a feature in Vogue that touted her for bringing a “fresh fashion perspective to the art world” referencing one of her exhibitions where she asked artists to consider fashion. On her relationship with fashion, Ross-Sutton, however, says she is a novice. Fittingly focusing on fashion’s more expressionistic and transformative qualities: “I like exploring life, my sexuality, my femininity through fashion. It is a bit of a costume, or a ‘performance’ in a way. The shoot was like learning how to walk in heels.” For this year’s exhibition in Venice, the thirty-three female artists on view break away from traditionally male-dominated societies that impose an idea of what a woman should be. Instead, they focus on communicating how women navigate the world, on their terms. The idea for the exhibition dates back to 2021 when Ross-Sutton and her husband, a German art consultant, started thinking about the need to curate an exhibition on the female gaze. Amidst it all, life threw some major curveballs at her—her father underwent major surgery to fight cancer, her husband was in a medical facility, and her family lost a close family friend to senseless violence. She became depressed, some days unable to get out of bed. When she was diagnosed with inattentive Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD) she was able to identify a source for some of her procrastination and anxiety and saw a way out. Family, a handful of friends, and her faith helped her through, and curating the show on women became more prescient to create a community and space to reflect. “The experience of being a woman is multifaceted; many X-factors determine what one’s experience as a woman will look like. From family and society, economic and socioeconomic factors, racial background, skin tone, zip codes, the beauty standards of one’s culture or the culture of the country you live in, politics, and laws that affect your womxnhood. Rarely imposed by you, but the burden is yours to bear,” she explains.

    Last summer she, together with her husband, moved to Sweden to a quiet house by the water. From their new base in Europe, she returns to New York every other month, for work and to spend time with her family. “Being a Black girl in Harlem or a woman in New York was familiar and still is. Living in Brooklyn with my husband and then moving to Stockholm gave me a different experience of being a woman,” she says, clarifying that the experience of being a woman is ever-changing and often circumstantial. “In the same way, it is a different experience being in the aisles of an art fair like Art Basel as one of the few people of colour during the VIP pre- view. It is slowly changing, but it is still very much an older white male-dominated business in this art world. In my professional life, I am not only a woman, but I am also young and people expect that to count against me.”
    The show’s atmosphere was set by two of Ross-Sutton’s recent acquisitions, including Vanessa Raw’s “Nothing to Lose” which was exhibited at Frieze London. Raw’s work, characterized by liberation and freedom, was displayed at Carl Freedman and impressed many visitors - “it literally stopped my husband in his tracks, he knew I would love them, I can see myself in her work, the lush and soft world she creates.”. Vanessa German’s sculpture “Flight” also caught the attention of the audience. The sculpture pays tribute to Althea Gibson, a trailblazing tennis player who became the first African American woman to win a Grand Slam in 1956. Gibson’s victory at Wimbledon and the US Nationals (predecessor to the US Open) in 1957 and 1958, made her a legend. The sculpture also brings to mind the achievements of 21st-century tennis superstars, Venus and Serena Williams. An incorporated twist of hair represents a legacy of strength, ferocity, and precarity in Black womanhood.

    But also seeing Tracey Emin’s “HOW THE FUCK DO YOU THINK I AM” (at Paris+). All the female artists she approached were enthusiastic about the exhibition, but to her surprise, some galleries, even female-run ones, were not interested in the exhibition. “It is always a toss-up which galleries are open to collaboration and those who pass. ”As written in the press release- “Women are and can be many things, daughters, mothers, sisters, CEOs, entrepreneurs, workers, caregivers, caretakers, providers, innovators, lovers, wives, queer, lesbian, bisexual, Christian, Muslim, atheists, Hindus, Sikhs, Catholics, Jewish, politicians, world leaders, women are loved, objectified, respected, disrespected, stoned, killed, admired, trafficked, worshipped, enslaved, oppressed, abused, used, celebrated, monetized, mourned, can be Caucasian, Black, Asian, Aboriginal, Hispanic, biracial, even multiracial, can be children, teens, adults, young or old, tall, short, skinny, obese, malnourished, healthy or not, refugees, free to travel or not, allowed to get an education or not, choose their partner or not, decide how to dress or not, their lives, gender and sexual expression, bodies and reproductive rights decided for them or not. But are women free to just ‘be’?”

    Spotlighting the theatricality of gender and the development of female identity, former milliner Ryan Wilde created sculptures “Precious Purple Bunny” and “Bunny Boobs” with felt and wooden mould-making, expanding on her craft. Traversing the history of slavery utilising cartoon aesthetics, Brittany Tucker misrepresents the white body to address the relationship between American blackness & whiteness with “Companion.” The painting “Ivy and Friends” by Stella Kapezanou is a lush depiction of Ivy Getty, a contemporary American heiress, against the backdrop of a Toulouse Lautrec painting. Making the work a clever commentary on privilege, some will recognise the wallpaper from the restroom at the exclusive members-club Annabel’s in London. Lydia Nobels’ sculpture “Temperance” addresses the issues and challenges of abortion access in the US, especially after the reversal of “Roe v Wade.” “I had curated a solo exhibition with Lydia in NY in time for the 2022 November elections. Each work represents a chair in the waiting room of an abortion clinic, telling the individual personal story of a woman and her struggles to get legal access to an abortion,“ says Ross-Sutton.

    Artists reflect the times we live in, otherwise, is it not simply decoration? Are women only decorations,objects? Art should make you feel—it can provoke a sense of peace or shake you, asking you to con- your ideas,” Ross-Sutton says, which she succeeds within ‘Unapologetic WomXn: The Dream is the Truth.’”

    Other artists in the show are Stacey Gillian Abe, Isa Andersson, Pyaar Azaadi formerly known as Jaishri Abichandani, Rita Mawuena Benissan, Alison Blickle, Gill Button, Bhasha Chakrabarti, Dorothea Charol, Caitlin Cherry, Renee Cox, Ariel Dannielle, Lunita-July Dorn, Maria Fragoso, Monica Kim Garza, Reihaneh Hosseini, Lyne Lapointe, Amani Lewis, Turiya Magadlela, Emily Manwaring, Kristina Matousch, Rune Mields, Sungi Mlengeya, Zanele Muholi, Paris Reid, Deborah Roberts, Sevina Tzánou, and Nadia K Waheed. “They are aged 25 to 89, emerging to established, from Greece, Germany, Uganda, Ukraine, South Africa, Sweden, India, Iran, USA, etc. Some works were specifically made for this exhibition, others were lent, including from our personal collection.”

    As we move further into the world of ‘me, then you,’ Ross-Sutton holds a quiet intensity and a dedication to curating meaningful exhibitions while supporting both emerging and established artists in reaching the next stage of their careers.

    “Delta-V”, 2022. Caitlin Cherry. Courtesy the artist
    photography Jheyda McGarrell

    “Portrait of Destinee Ross”, 2019

    Kehinde Wiley. Courtesy the artist

    “Fire Fighter (Destinee)”, 2021

    Tim Okamura. Courtesy the artist

    “Alice”, 2024. Gill Button. Courtesy the artist

    .
    “Leda's Hand”, 2023. Stella Kapezanou. Courtesy the artist
    photography Jheyda McGarrell

    .
    “The secrets in our hems”. Sungi Mlengeya. Courtesy the artist
    “Her Sparking Heart”, 2024. Georgia Theologou. Courtesy the artist

    “Othile”, 2020. Zanele Muholi. Courtsy the artist
    “Ivy and friends”, 2022. Stella Kapezanou. Courtesy the artist
    “Nothing to Lose”, 2023. Vanessa Raw. Courtesy the artist
    “Temperance”. Lydia Nobles. Courtesy the artist

    “Josephine Baker”. Dorothea Charol. Courtesy the artist

    OCCHIO, MALOCCHIO, PREZZEMOIO E FINOCCHIO“, 2024.

    Lunita-July Dorn.
    Courtesy the artist and Galerie Judith Andreae

    “Destinee”, 2019. Amoako Boafo. Courtesy the artist.

    Flight”, 2019. Vanessa German. Courtesy the artist

    .

    “Companion”, 2019. Brittany Tucker. Courtesy the artist

    .

    “Precious Purple Bunny”, 2024. Ryan Wilde.

    Courtesy the artist and Galerie Brigitte Mulholland.

  • Image by Mert Alas

    Calvin Klein Launches Fall 2024 Menswear Campaign Starring Alexander Skarsgård

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    Calvin Klein has unveiled its Fall 2024 menswear campaign, featuring award-winning actor Alexander Skarsgård. Directed and photographed by Mert Alas, the campaign showcases Skarsgård wearing pieces from Calvin Klein’s latest collection, including the newly introduced Calvin Klein Studio line.

    The visuals capture Skarsgård’s effortless confidence, with him sporting sleek outerwear, layered looks, and minimalist tailoring. Commenting on the campaign, Skarsgård said, “It was wonderful to reunite with the Calvin Klein team. The shoot felt sophisticated, sleek, yet playful.” The collection emphasizes versatility with transitional layers, slim suiting, and elevated essentials crafted from premium materials. Calvin Klein Studio highlights refined staples with modern, fashion-forward silhouettes. Launching globally on September 4, 2024, the campaign will roll out across Calvin Klein’s social media channels and major outdoor advertising spaces worldwide, bringing the brand’s timeless, minimalist menswear into the spotlight.

  • photography Ellinor Sjöberg

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist 

    all jewellery MH 925

    top and skirt Viktoria Chan

    The Making of MH 925

    Written by Natalia Muntean

    Influenced by Scandinavian minimalism and a commitment to minimalist design, MH 925 is an intriguing Swedish jewellery brand, offering handmade pieces from recycled silver. Marie Häger is the visionary behind the brand and her background in advertising and fashion deeply influences her approach, blending Scandinavian minimalism with a dedication to creating lasting, quality jewellery. ​​

    Natalia Muntean: What is your earliest memory related to jewellery? 
    Marie Häger: When I was around eight or ten, my mom and I took a trip to Gran Canaria. During our visit, my mom bought a silver choker that inspired me. It's similar to the one I have in my collection, but not exactly the same. I also remember our travels to my aunt's place in Dalarna, known for its silver mines and independent silversmiths. We visited a lot of these artisans who sold their own creations. I also recall my mom buying long organic-shaped earrings, which I found quite special. These memories are some of the earliest ones that influenced me.

    NM: How did your journey with jewellery start and how did your background in advertising and fashion influence your approach to jewellery design?
    MH:
    I grew up in a place where there was a lot of steel extraction happening, with a mum and grandmother who were artistic and painted. Then, I think my experience at Beckmans College of Design, where everything should be very conceptual, with a strong idea you can explain, really influenced me. It shouldn’t be just anything nice, but something with a purpose. I wanted to do something connected, trained in doing ideas. I also had the conceptual idea of how to build a brand since I worked with brands after finishing school.
    My advertising background taught me the importance of a brand’s identity, which should be more than just a superficial layer. Brands often struggle to find their DNA, especially when they try to be something they’re not. This is why I found it frustrating to work for companies that didn’t have a clear vision, wasting time on concepts that never materialised.
    In 2014, I started taking silversmith courses and envisioned building my brand with a clear identity where the product, branding, and advertising were all interconnected, like a “red thread” that ties everything together, ensuring that the brand remains true to itself.

    NM: What would you like your clients to take away from MH 925?
    MH:
    I think it's all that I have spoken about earlier: it's very sustainable since I'm working with recycled silver. Half of my collection is made to order, so I often need to try on the rings to ensure they fit perfectly. This is important to me, but I won't be able to do that when I launch the webshop and receive orders from outside Stockholm. It's important that my products fit perfectly and are not wasteful, considering the environment. Everything is connected from beginning to end, and it's a slow process. I don't follow trends; I create when I want to. However, I realise I need a bigger collection to expand and sustain this business. I want to expand with meaningful designs that reflect my ideas.

    NM: Where do you get your ideas from?
    MH:
    There are some artists that I get inspired by, like geometrical artists. Artists that are doing something very special with environmental architecture, like Tadao Ando for instance, in Japan, he makes beautiful buildings. So it's a lot of the shapes that I'm inspired by. For example, I created my first ring as an experiment about seven years ago, inspired by the ellipse shape, which I found to fit well on the finger. My hemisphere ring, also a product of experimentation, was challenging due to the technique required to shape it. I used to hit a flat round silver plate into a half-circle mould to achieve the final form.
    Initially, I made all my pieces myself, but as the process is time-consuming, I now collaborate with a skilled silversmith in Sweden who enhances and perfects the designs. He uses 3D technique moulding for the spheres, ensuring high precision. The ring rails and spheres are still assembled by hand. The cuffs and bracelet are made by hand.

    NM: What are the challenges and the rewards of maintaining a slow and non-seasonal production cycle?
    MH:
    The challenge is that it takes time when I do everything myself. And I'm very eager. Like finding time for everything and also continuing to be a perfectionist. So the challenge is that I have to wait a lot. I would like to get some feedback to prove that what I do is interesting, although I get that from friends and people in the industry. It would be nice to get more orders as confirmation that I've made something people want because it takes time.

    NM: Are you focusing on Sweden mostly now? Or do you want to go abroad?
    MH:
    I need to go abroad because it's impossible to maintain the premium level in Sweden. When it's handmade, it also costs. I am against fast fashion. So when you buy it, I want you to feel like it's an investment that can last your whole life and be passed down to your child. I believe my designs are timeless; so, to answer your question, I aim to find stores in New York, Milan, Paris—the fashion capitals.

    NM: You are not focusing on trends and working slowly to build this brand. But do you have moments when you're unsure of this path?
    MH:
    Very much. If I'm honest, I started going to a coach, which helped me because when I started the brand in 2021, I didn't have the confidence. It's so much work, and you have to believe in yourself. It doesn't help that others say, “Oh, I love the rings,” if you don't have the confidence. I was a bit unsure. It's a lot of money that goes into investment before you get returns. It's a lot of time. But then I realised in November, that I would regret not continuing, so I decided to do it 100%.
    After seeing the coach, I felt there was no failure, just the need to keep going. If I feel like something will never work, I push that feeling away and move on. Everything has been much easier since then. It's a psychological mindset.

    NM: Is there a moment related to your jewellery that your clients have shared with you?
    MH:
    I get really happy if I get a text from people wearing my jewellery, saying they love it. And I have some older clients who send me texts, maybe two years after buying a ring, saying they still love it and feel happy they bought it. So that's very nice.

    NM: Is there a piece in your collection that has the most personal or more personal significance to you?
    MH:
    Yes, it's a simple ring that I made for the first time, which I really like and wear every day. Also, there's the hemisphere ring, the largest one, which I find quite different, It’s a statement piece, you won’t be unnoticed if you wear it.

    NM: Do you have male customers as well?
    MH:
    I have some now, but I would like to expand. Arc ring many men buy. I've also done a new piece called Parachute ring which I think many men would like. It was a deliberate choice. I have quite feminine pieces, but the whole language is very unisex and minimalistic.

    NM: Can you tell me a bit more about your creative process?
    MH:
    It has changed quite a lot. From the beginning, I experimented with silver at a silversmith’s studio and was really influenced by the '60s and '70s silversmiths like Karl Gustav Hansen, Torun Bülow-Hübe and Georg Jensen. I still look a lot at their creations for inspiration. Now, I don't go into the silversmith anymore because it would take me a while to create the pieces. With my two latest drops, I didn't make them myself from the beginning. I drew them for production, and they made them. For the images, I collaborate with my partner and photographer Rickard Sund, who is a big part of the brand.

    NM:  What do you prefer? Being in the workshop at the silversmith or outsourcing?
    MH:
    Outsourcing it, definitely. If I did it myself, it would be more of a hobby and I feel I would never be able to sell anything because it would take me so long. I also want everything to be exactly the same, which is a challenge if I would make them myself.

    NM: How did you pick the name?
    MH:
    I was influenced by Comme Des Garcons and Maison Margiela, where it’s quite anonymous and you can’t quite figure out what it is. So I used my initials and the 925 hallmark for silver. I'm an Art Director and graphic designer, and I like these numbers and the stamp from the metal. I love silver, so it was more of a statement that I would only work with silver. Now people ask if they could get some pieces in gold and I am thinking about it.

    NM: How would you describe your brand? Did you have a particular person in mind when you first started creating?
    MH:
    It's well-suited for the creative industry. The design is simple, unisex, but with a feminine touch. It’s for a woman who values quality over quantity, has an eye for detail, loves accessories, and pairs them with classic, chic clothing.

    NM: What is next for MH 925?
    MH:
    I’m launching my webshop in August, also with new campaign images. Which is a big milestone. Looking ahead, in one to two years, my goal is to have retailers in five or six countries. It would be a dream come true to achieve that. In addition to that, I plan to expand the collection with two or three more pieces, possibly as soon as next year. I have a lot of ideas, which is good. It feels very creative, which is good. I had a period of creative stagnation, but the ideas are flowing easily again, and it's exciting. The plan is to grow and hopefully, people will continue to appreciate the brand and jewellery.

    dress Viktoria Chan
    dress Samsøe Samsøe
    dress Viktoria Chan
    photography Ellinor Sjöberg

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Maurine Tugavune / Mikas looks

    model Anna T / The Wonders

    .

    all jewellery MH 925

    body Samsøe Samsøe

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