• All images by James Cochrane 

    An interview with Lovechild 1979 about their SS25 runway show and collection

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    On the second day of CPHFW  bohemian brand Lovechild 1979 debuted their SS25 collection. The models walked the runway wearing leather, sheer drapes and knits in a breezy but structured fashion. Before the show, Odalisque talked to Hanne Yoo Andersen, design manager,  about the collection and the preparations for the show. 

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process in creating the SS25 runway show?

    Hanne Yoo Andersen: We wanted to somehow portray the narrative of “going to work” and “going home from work” and how our attire shifts and merges with the notion of being at/off work. The Lovechild 1979 SS25 show is located in Amaliehaven in the heart of Copenhagen. It has been important for us that the show location and choice of music should be seen as an extension of the concept of how we portray our different identities in our daily life.

    UL: How did you choose the location for the runway show?

    HYA:For us, the location and setting are a perfect example of showcasing that transition. We work very closely with the creative studio Alpine, which has been in charge of the creative direction for the show. Amaliehaven is right next to their office and was newly restored. It somehow seemed like an obvious opportunity to utilize an open green space that still had an urban feel to it.

    UL: What does the SS25 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for this collection?

    HYA:We have been aiming to give our take on “contemporary workwear” and how we see the workwear uniform being integrated into the wardrobe. In that context, we have been inspired by the post-minimal artist Eva Hesse and her take on everyday objects. She had a background in textile design before becoming an artist, which is very much present in a wide range of her artworks that have served as a great inspiration in developing our SS25 collection.We always focus on tactility rather than decoration, and in that sense, Hesse’s work served as great inspiration.

    UL: What was the biggest challenge in creating your SS25 collection?

    HYA: We continuously strive to work more sustainably, which always is a challenge, if not the biggest challenge in the overall industry. Nonetheless, it is a welcoming challenge that needs to be addressed and, for us, is an ongoing process.

    UL: How would you describe the Lovechild 1979 customer?

    HYA: The SS25 collection beautifully showcases our definition of the Lovechild 1979 customer, where sophistication meets practicality.

    UL: What can we expect from Lovechild 1979 in the future?

    HYA: The Lovechild 1979 brand will continue to reinterpret the quintessence of a woman's wardrobe by infusing vitality into classic dressing. We have, through the past seasons, been highlighting our take on Scandinavian minimalism, which is the foundation of the Lovechild 1979 DNA. Furthermore, fabric tactility and the duality between the traditional ideas of masculinity and femininity are interesting aspects that we will continue to evolve and explore.

  • All images by James Cochrane 

    Alectra Rothschild/Masculina Discusses the Inspirations Behind Their SS25 Runway Show and Collection

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    On the first day of Copenhagen fashion week ss25 tailor turned designer Alectra Rothschild showed her new collection for Alectra Rothschild/Masculina.  We asked her about her process, challenges and the future of Masculina. 

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process in creating the ss25 runway show?

    Alectra Rothschild: The process has been intense! My first instinct right after showing the the REBIRTH carry at FW24 was that i wanted to models to be lifted up. To be on a sort of pedistal to make a quite literal societal powershift as the the majority cast are trans and otherwise at the margins of society so i want everyone at the show to look up at Them - where we truly deserve to be.

    UL: How did you chose the location for the runway show?

    AR: Me and inter.agcy had a hard time finding a location this time as I wanted the show to be open to all this time. MASCULINA is for everyone 

    UL: What does the SS25 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for his collection?

    AR: The collection is called “You are wasted here, you are a star” which speaks to the position of trans people in our society. You are wasted in this world because we are not appreciated for all that we are. WE ARE STARS

    For the collection ive been inspired by the intimacy that we queer people share in private Spaces. So its referencing the 20’s boudoir for getting ready. To sit at the vanity table and putting on ur makeup with you friends before going out, its the space after getting Home from a night out too. So there are ropes, nightgowns and hoodies. Its a very romantic collection that has remnants from the club.

    UL: What was the biggest challenge creating your ss25 collection?

    AR: TIME.

    UL: How would you describe the Alectra Rothschild / Masculina customer?

    AR: They are definently not afraid of being themselves. They appreciate glamour and getting dressed up.

    UL: What can we expect from Alectra Rothschild / Masculina in the future?

    AR: More p*ssy.

  • La Force de Melodie, exploring AZ Factory an Interview with Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

    Written by Susan Stjernberger by Sandra Myhrberg

    AZ Factory was founded by the late great designer Alber Elbaz. Launched in 2021, it blends technology with fashion focusing on innovative and inclusive designs. The brand emphasises comfort and functionality, creating pieces that cater to a diverse range of body types and lifestyles. AZ Factory’s in-house designers Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin have for the first time together designed their very own Spring 2024 collection called “AZ Factory by Them”.

    Susan Stjernberger: What made you join Alber Elbaz and AZ Factory when he started his new brand?
    Norman René Devera: For me, it was quite easy because I worked with Alber previously and I always say Alber was the only person that was able to take me out of my first job at Céline with Phoebe Philo. Even though so many people approached me, it was only Alber with his whimsical and romantic way of speaking that moved me to Lanvin. It wasn’t even a second thought. This was the opportunity to continue the conversation we had begun at Lanvin and design together again. Alber was always the biggest inspiration for me.
    Peter Movrin: Unlike Norman, I hadn’t worked with Alber before. I was at Central Saint Martins and Alber was doing interviews and asked me if I wanted to join him in this new project. At the time, I didn’t know the brand's name, I didn’t know the project, I didn’t know anything! It felt natural and Alber was such an inspiration to me that I accepted and moved to Paris!

    SS: How do you compliment each other in the design and creative process? How do you work together?
    NRD: I think we’re so opposite! Peter is so great, I’m going to compliment him now. He’s great at editing. I’m quite mental, so with P we’re a good balance. He’s also great with images. When we were with Alber and he was describing words that he would say out loud, Peter would come up with an image from his mental library archive. P is that voice of visual richness for me. How great is that? Jesus, you better say something nice as well.
    PM: The skills Norman has are beyond! Yes, we are very much op- posite but it’s very natural working together. Norman knows how to translate the image into design. I’ll bring the image and then he’s off and already speaking with the 3D designer and the atelier!

    SS: What made this the right time for your first collection called “By Them” together?
    NRD: When Alber passed away it was always going to be a col- laborative form so I didn’t know if it was going to be a place for us to show our aspects. It only happened when we were in a meeting and I said “What if we did a collection, what if it was designed by us inside the house?” And that’s how the name “By Them” came about. Peter and I work very much by instinct and we love designing together so it felt right to do a collection by us.
    PM: Norman said it all, the stars were in the right place!

    SS: Could there be more collections by you again?
    NRD: Inshallah! (I was laughing as it means “if God’s Will”). We have to wait and see especially with the format we have going with collaborations. One thing we have learned from Alber is to be patient and go with what comes naturally to us. We also love the element of surprise whether it be with the collaborations or when we design together.

    SS: What is behind the AZ Factory Collaborations?
    PM: You know it’s different. For example with Lutz, he’s already established with his own brand. But what’s especially interesting for us is the graduates, the future. We help them with the collection and give them the experience of working with an atelier, never forgetting Alber. They may think they don’t have anything in common with Alber or may not know him but when they dive into his past collections from YSL, Guy Laroche, or Lanvin they get inspired and even obsessed with it.
    NRD: The turning point for me was when someone like Cyril Bourez described something and he used the same wording as Alber. I knew this was how Alber would have wanted it. Alber’s first collection was about every woman, the bigger woman, the smaller woman and Ester Manas fit in perfectly into that. And Thebe Magugu comes from Africa and Alber had African descent, so everyone and everything that has come into our collaborative world has a connection with Alber. That’s why it feels so correct. When Peter and I are designing, we always look at each other and say “Would Alber like this?” We’re always honing him in and continuing his legacy.

    SS: What was the inspiration behind this collection?
    PM:
    We imagined the day, what she would wear in the morning, during the weekday, the weekend. We looked at the silhouette
    and draping.
    NRD: The collection was really her day. She woke up and could wear her husband’s shirt, which opened the collection. Or, she could be wearing a lingerie piece and then she goes into this day dress which is a bit transparent, a bit playful with the flower print and then she goes into this miniature couture piece. There’s a garment for each time of day.
    PM: All of this collection was beautiful, from the hair to the makeup, so nicely done.
    NRD: True to the lady from the day, her makeup was very rock ‘n’ roll. You didn’t know if it was freshly put on or if it was from yesterday! The makeup was a story in itself.

    SS: Any favourite looks from the collection?
    PM:
    The teddy bear blue look. The draped dresses and I like the print, actually a lot of pieces.
    NRD: Well, Susan, it’s like picking one of your children! Which one do you choose? Can you imagine? I think the whole collection just felt so unified. For me, it was the whole thing and I love it all.
    SS: How do you work with sustainability? How is that a part of AZ Factory?
    NRD:
    This is very natural for us. From when we are sourcing our fabrics it’s always the storytelling where we can get it the most
    sustainable. From using second-hand to deadstock fabrics, it’s second nature for us.

    SS: What inspires you these days?
    PM:
    I just came back from London and saw the Central Saint Martins show and the students inspire me. The future is bright! Norman inspires me with his looks and these days he’s more down to earth wearing Loewe flat leather shoes.
    NRD: Everything inspires me! I’m always looking at art exhibitions and searching on Instagram. You can see everything like Iris Van Herpen’s exhibit. It would be nice to see it in person but nowadays you have access to everything.

    SS: What does a typical day look like for you?
    NRD:
    We check in on emails, images, PR and design processes and when that needs to be 3D. And there’s a lot of research, draping and we laugh a lot too, telling silly jokes. We keep the morale mega-high!

    SS: Last question, a bit fun. If your designs had a soundtrack what songs would be on it?
    NRD:
    The Lion King, straight up the full album! Like the Circle of Life.
    PM: I’m in a more gloomy and a bit darker mood before spring. So we have gloomy and Disney all in one! I’m listening to Diamanda Galás. I’m more in this mood right now. I’m floating around Paris with this kind of music.
    NRD: Again that enriching side that Peter brings. Opposites that work perfectly together. We’re like twins. I’m Arnold Schwarzenegger and he’s Danny Devito… *and they both laugh hysterically, me included.

    dress AZ Factory Archive SS22
    stockings Swedish Stockings
    shoes ATP Atelier
    gloves Handsome Stockholm
    sunglasses Maryam Keyhani
    bracelet Sägen

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    shoes Eytys

    ring Sägen

    Linda wears

    total look AZ Factory Archive SS22
    boots Stylist's Own

    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory Archive SS22

    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes ATP Atelier

    bracelet Sägen

    Linda wears

    dress & shoes AZ Factory SS24

    ring Sägen

    .
    Eden wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    .
    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    socks Swedish Stockings

    shoes New Balance
    earrings Maria Nilsdotter

    ring Susan Szatmáry

    Linda wears

    dress & shoes AZ Factory SS24

    ring Sägen

    .

    Eden wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    .

    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    socks Swedish Stockings

    shoes New Balance
    earrings Maria Nilsdotter

    ring Susan Szatmáry

    shirt & skirt AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    top & trousers AZ Factory SS24

    shoes New Balance
    jewellery Maria Nilsdotter

    total look AZ Factory SS24

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