• photography by FABIO PALEARI

    Greta Bellamacina is the Queen of Broken Magic

    Written by Mari Florer

     

    She writes poetry and directs films. She runs the publishing house The New River Press and is currently the new face of the cult British fashion brand: John Smedley.

    Meet the contemporary Greta Bellamacina - the London-born woman who is trying, in her own creative way, to change the world for both women and poetry.

    As a child she spent a lot of time on film sets. When she was thirteen years old, she had her first acting role in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. Five years later she was discovered as a model in a lift whilst she was working as an intern at US Vogue. She has modelled for both Burberry and Stella McCartney and collaborated with Vivienne Westwood on a poetry project to help Climate Control.

    This is just the surface of Greta Bellamacina’s world. Her passion for the society and literature just seems to continue to grow more and there are new interesting projects going on right now.

    MB: Where do you live?
    GB: I live in London in Fitzrovia right underneath the BT Tower.

    MB: What’s happening in your life right now?
    GB: I am currently in the pre-production process of making two new feature films which I have been writing over the past year, entitled “Hurt by Paradise” and “Nothing’s Ideal”. Both films draw on the female position in society today. I am really excited to start filming.

    I am also doing a series of poetry readings to promote my new collection “Pershing Tame”.  Last year I did a book tour, performing around Europe and the U.S., reading at The Shakespeare & Company, The Groucho, The Chateau Marmot, Ace Hotel, Neue House and The Albion Beatnik bookshop and others.

    MB: How would your partner or best friend describe you?
    GB: Queen of broken magic.

    MB: Do you like being a mother? Has it changed you in some way?
    GB: I feel incredibly connected to other women. I think as an artist you always want to connect emotionally with everything you make. I have been overwhelmed by the new depth of emotion of having a child.

    MB: You are running a publishing house. Is it a lot of work?
    GB: Yes, The New River Press - it is truly a labour of love. Last year we published our first set of poems, I particularly love Robert Montgomery´s debut collection “Coltash” and Rosalind Jana’s collection “Branch and Vein”.

    MB: Any special book or project going on?
    GB: I just launched “Smear” a collection of contemporary female poetry which I edited. There doesn’t seem to be anything quite comparable in the poetry world. I didn’t feel there was a comfortable place for young women in their teens and early twenties to voice their thoughts, their politics, and their emotions through poetry. I think there really isn’t anything. I found it frustrating myself growing up and I know a lot of poets who get disheartened early on. So I wanted this collection to be open to first time poets. I did an open call on New River Press Instagram and we got hundreds of submissions, I chose the best 20 or so and added about 10 established poets that I already knew. The book is really there to discover and encourage new voices.

    MB: What do you think defines a contemporary poet of today?
    GB: I think like any time it´s about discussing the world you live in now. It´s about staying true to your authentic voice. Not being afraid to cause a riot.

    MB: Could you mention one female contemporary poet we must read?
    GB:One of my favourite poets is Alice Oswald, I especially love her collection Darts. Her writing is so closely connected to nature. She uses images of the world to reflect a group human mind.

    MB: What poem you wrote are you most proud of? What is it about?
    GB:I think it has to be my most recent poem. This Christmas I wrote a poem called “Dartmoor Wedding Song”, it's a meditation on the British landscape in winter.

    Here it is:

    “Dartmoor wedding song
    Dartmoor came with a low fog
    ancient gods all sleeping between
    the sky and the clouds,
    the same as the bed we woke up in
    slopping downwards, a room made for the fallen
    the last breath of a flower
    hung in the direction of rain song

    The air of god dreams roped in the wind
    shaking the locking shadow organs
    making the daytime observe its place to the sun.
    the last land to bewitch
    the trees and groan out the gut of broken stars
    which sit silently on the side of the road still stung,
    free angels, ebony bird tombs

    born again to moors, forking the heartlands
    washing in the mystery of love
    and the ferrying images of you pushing the pram
    up the hill towards me, barely a shape
    grappling with this idea of distance
    in the communism of Sundays
    and the abandonment of paradise.”

    MB: How do you think a modern future library looks like?
    GB: I wrote and directed “The Safe House: A Decline of Ideas” a documentary about the decline of the British public libraries. Whilst filming I discovered that rather than replacing libraries with central libraries we need to keep them local. We need to have a curated cannon of books for all age groups. The future library is a temple of learning, a place for self-education.

    The film is available to watch online with Curzon Home Cinema.

    MB: Are you still working as a model?
    GB: Yes, I am currently signed to VIVA MODEL MANAGEMENT in London and Paris. They represent me on their talent board.

    MB: Which job as a model (or actor If you prefer) do you remember the most? Why?
    GB: At the age of eighteen I got into the Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts. I have really special memories of performing the bride in “The Blood Wedding” by Federico Garcia Lorca. It was the first time I really felt completely at home.

    MB: Are you going to Paris or London Fashion Week 2017? In case you do, do you have any favorite designer you specially like?
    GB: Yes, I will be going to Paris to support the Each X Other fashion show. I did a collaboration with them last year. My boyfriend, artist/poet Robert Montgomery has collaborated on their new show, entitled- “The City is Magical Sculpture of The Group Mind”.

    MB: What’s in your wardrobe? What sort of garments or labels?
    GB: Turkish born designer Dilara Findikoglu - everything she makes is a piece of art. I also love The Vampire’s Wife and Shrimps.

    MB: If you could change one thing in the fashion world tomorrow - what would that be?
    GB: A lot of clothes on the high-street are made in sweatshops with child labour. I think this needs to urgently change.

  • photography by ELLINOR STIGLE

    Interview with Zack Moscot

    Written by Robin Clementson by pari

    “Moscot is a Family”

    The classic Moscot iconic eyewear have been worn by many familiar faces around the world for decades. It started as a small local business over hundred years ago in Manhattan, New York. The brand has survived generations and is now a thriving global brand, well known for its timeless design and quality.

    We had the chance to interview with Zack Moscot, 26, who is the fifth generation of the Moscot family and the chief eyewear designer of the family brand.

    – I am constantly motivated by my family’s century of hard work, and dedicated to ensuring the longevity of the Moscot brand, he says.

    You are fifth generation Moscot, what is life like today within the brand compared to the years before you?

    ZM: The Moscot brand has evolved quite a bit. While we do consider ourselves a global fashion brand, we are still, at heart, a neighbourhood optical shop, and this philosophy is expressed through all of our branded initiatives. The difference between the past and the present is, now we are able to tell our 100+ year-old story to the rest of the world! We launch new eyewear collections seasonally, and our small team works tirelessly to ensure our brand ethos, design and heritage transcends various cultural differences.

    Talk to us about the origins of Moscot and why you think the brand has survived for 101 years?

    ZM: What’s unique about Moscot is that we are truly a 102-year-old family business with five generations behind our name. All four generations before me were dedicated to providing customers the ultimate optical experience. Sol, second generation Moscot, used to tell customers, “Your vision is our concern!” At the heart of Moscot, not much has changed; we are constantly striving to keep our loyal fans and customers happy by providing a memorable experience and timeless, quality eyewear. We’re focused on the relationships we build, and on doing the right things for the right reasons. We believe our honesty and humble attitude is why generations of customers have put their trust in us, and return to Moscot year after year.

    What is the DNA of Moscot what are the must do’s and dont’s that any new employee must adhere to or know about?

    ZM: At the end of the day, Moscot is a family. We are one big family and that is the feeling that resonates in the shops, at manager’s meetings, and even company events. We have a 20+-year employee club, some of whom have been with the company for over 40+ years and spent time behind the counter with my grandfather and great grandfather! Moscot is a home for us Moscot-eers and we like to keep it that way! It’s important all employees understand the depth of the family history and the origins of Moscot. My father and I believe that one must know where he/she comes from in order to know where he/she is headed, and this message applies to our staff as well. There is a certain warmth and sincerity that is unspoken in the House of Moscot. Our do’s: smile, good energy, and passion. Fortunately, most of our employees happen to be artists and creative types so this comes easy to them!

    Whenever we meet fans of Moscot or we discuss the brand with people within the industry, we always hear the words ‘retro’ and ‘cool’. Do you see the product in the same light, or is there so much more to it?

    ZM: I feel that when one wears a pair of Moscot frames, he or she is wearing 100+ years of downtown NYC heritage and family history. A Moscot frame represents the immigrant story of my great-great-grandfather who escaped oppression and came to America in 1899 to start a new life. He did what he knew how to do best: he sold glasses off a pushcart. There is a certain emotional connection between a Moscot frame and the wearer. The product is time-honored in its design, and also has emotional depth. The brand has been owned and operated by the Moscot family for over a century, and five generations later, we continue to pour the same love and devotion into what we do. As a product designer and someone who loves classics, I find that people feel this connection and the authentic attributes of our brand the way we do.

    So many celebrities wear the brand, can you tell us who you think might wear it the best and why?

    ZM: We’re so fortunate that so many celebrities have taken a liking to the Moscot brand! Quite frankly, it happened naturally, being that Moscot has always been located in the Lower East Side – a place that exudes the Moscot DNA and is filled with artists and independent thinkers. It’s really hard to say who wears Moscot best since every individual has his or her own Moscot identity and individual look. I can say, however, that Johnny Depp first wearing The Lemtosh in the early 2000s helped put the frame on the map. It showed people all over the world the beauty of that silhouette.

    You are the first Moscot family member not to be a qualified optician, but a designer and responsible now for the new collections, namely the up-coming Opti-Munich trunk collection and the new SS17 line to be unveiled at MIDO in February. How does it feel to be coming from a totally new family angle?

    ZM: When I first entered the business there was a lot of pressure since I really had no optical background. All my predecessors had optician licenses, and my dad Harvey is an eye doctor (O.D.). I always wanted to join the business, but never really had a passion for the “eyeballs” per se. I did, however, have a passion and eye for design. I realized I could combine my passion for product with my family’s unique history, and I began to push the envelope. My father appreciates my design background since I am able to approach the business with new perspectives and creative thinking. Together, he and I are a solid team and together we create product that not only looks good, but is designed with optical expertise to provide the ultimate fit for all face shapes.

    What do you try to incorporate into your designs, what’s the aim and the direction? Are you led by generic trends?

    ZM: When designing new product, I pay close attention to the history of our frames and the decade’s past. The mission is always to create models that cohesively grow and enhance the collection while adhering to our brand identity. While certain seasonal releases may be inspired by particular eras or concepts, the final designs are always clean, minimalistic, and classic. I want our customers to come to Moscot and know they will find a design that will not go out of style, lasts a lifetime, compliments their face and bone structure, and boosts their self-perception and individuality.

    How would describe where Moscot sits today as a brand?

    ZM: Moscot represents an emerging brand in the independent eyewear segment. Much of the industry worldwide is dominated by some of the larger conglomerates. As a small, family-owned business in NYC, we pay close attention to where and how our product lives. While we may be a smaller player in the growing market of eyewear, we feel confident we’re able to provide the best service and quality eyewear to our loyal fans, and anyone looking for something different, special, authentic, and timeless.

  • photography by BEATRICE HOLMBERG
    stylist MEGHAN SCOTT
    hair & make up ANGELICA BECKMAN
    photographer's assistant ARDA EKEN

    jacket STELLA MCCARTNEY
    shirt BACK
    top WEEKDAY
    trousers 2ND DAY
    earrings ARTIST'S OWN

    An Interview with Tove Styrke

    Written by Mari Florer

    “I was unsure if I wanted to do music anymore”

    Tove Styrke is a very memorable person, somebody that if you meet her once, you’ll never forget her. After participating in the Swedish music talent TV show “Idol” in 2010  and releasing her first album, Tove Styrke felt like she was under a lot of pressure and needed a break.

    She decided to take a time-out and move to her parents in Umeå, in the north of Sweden. While living there, she was unable to escape her drive to create music and luckily she never stopped writing. After nine months break, she had created enough new material and was longing to go back into the recording studio again.

    – I wish that more people had the opportunity to get really bored in order to find out what they want to do in life. When you get really bored an insight arise and that was what happened to me. Even if I did not have a record label or anything, I realized that music is and always will be a significant part of my life, Tove says.

    When she eventually returned to Stockholm to work on her new album - a more experimental and personal one, ‘Kiddo’,released in 2015, which received excellent reviews. Tove is now working in the studio again with and has a  plan to release new songs next year. I had the chance to have a ‘fika’, basically a Swedish coffee break, with her in Stockholm recently.

    MB: What is happening in your career right now?
    TS: I'm working on new songs and I think they are the best I've ever done so far. Hopefully. You always feel that way when you do something, but then again, you are not always right. I do not know yet if there will be an album or not - we'll see. Today, there are no special rules for how to publish music. Anyways, next year I will release something new.

    MB: How do you make your songs?
    TS: Now, I have worked quite a lot with my producer Elof and we have slowly and steadily built up the songs. We are going through one at a time until they are finished. I've never been this meticulous before - I really like it.
    It’s all starting to crystallize, In the beginning when you make music you do not really know what it will lead to - it´s just a feeling. These new songs will be more stripped down and simple than the songs on Kiddo.

    MB: What are your lyrics about?
    TS: About love, one of them is like “just want to be with you - we are so good” and another is a “fuck song”. I like them both.

    MB: Do you write everything yourself?
    TS: I started to write my own lyrics after Idol. I really enjoy writing.

    MB: Time Magazine wrote that your album Kiddo “Is a Feminist Pop Triumph” - what do you think about that?
    TS: Yes, but it is usually in foreign countries where they think it’s special if you are a tough young woman, they see you as a feminist. I just think I'm a reasonable human being. I think it is quite normal. What else would I be?

    MB: You've released two albums; Tove Styrke (2010) and Kiddo (2015), Which of them do you like most?
    TS: I like both. However, I see Kiddo as my real debut album. It is more diffused and personal. There are a lot of personal impressions that have been processed in Kiddo. My first album Tove Styrke is more of an ordinary pop album. I like it too, it is a good craftsmanship, but it does not say much about me really. I was angrier on the Kiddo album. I had a bit of a crisis when I was 19-20. All of a sudden a feeling of empathy started to grow inside me. I woke up and realized that the world does not just revolve around me and that I'm just a small part of it all. To understand that others can be affected by how I act - it was hard to realize.

    MB: What happened after your break from music?
    TS: I was impatient to try new things. I had an idea of what I wanted to accomplish. Me and Janne Kask (Brainpool) were very productive, we made like five songs in five days.

    MB: Have you been interested in working with something else?
    TS: No, not really, I have been singing and involved in music since I was little girl.

    MB: How did you end up in Idol?
    TS: They had received an anonymous tip about me. I got a call and then I went to the audition.

    MB: Were you afraid of failure?
    TS: No, the first four times before it went live, I was completely convinced that I was casted as a Jester or something. I thought it went horribly..

    MB: Was it fun?
    TS: It was very stressful. I wasn’t dead serious, and that was probably the reason why it went well for me. If you're not afraid you can just go for it.

    MB: What do you think would have happened if you won instead of getting third place?
    TS: I think it would have been about the same. Probably, if I had taken the break from the music earlier. The positive side of getting third place is that I have been saved from producing a stress album, and that is good - very good actually.

    MB: Tell us a little about your family?
    TS: I come from an ordinary family in Umeå. I have two sisters, one who is twelve years older and one who is four years younger.  My dad is a musician and mom has always been doing things related to dance. I have been in a three and a half year relationship and we live together in Hägersten, in Stockholm.

    MB: Do you like living in Stockholm?
    TS: I think it takes quite some time before you feel at home in Stockholm, but at the same time I get bored when I'm in my hometown Umeå. I can’t be there for a long time - there's really not much to do there.

    MB: You dance in your videos. Do you like dancing?
    TS: I love it. I like to combine dance and pop music in new ways. There is so much pop music that has the same type of dancing in every video and I think it's so boring. I want to show people that dance can be so much more than that and that it can be really interesting.
    My cousin, who is really good at contemporary dancing, has taught me a lot. I loved performing at the The Swedish Grammis, it was amazing. I begged for ten dancers for the show and I'm so glad I got them.. At first they said that I could only have three, but I said no because I wanted to bring a whole bunch of them.

    MB: Are you training a lot?
    TS: No, I have tried to make a valiant effort, but I'm really bad at doing stuff that has a specified time because I cannot decide to be in a specific place at a certain time. I never make plans longer than two weeks because so many things turn up all the time and then I have to prioritize.

    MB: Who picks out your clothes?
    TS: I have mostly been in the studio the last year wearing a hoodie, so I have not really kept up with the trends lately. I usually work with stylists when I do something on television or on tour.

    MB: Do you have a favorite designer?
    TS: Right now I like Ganni. I like these shoes I'm wearing now.

    MB: What are your plans for the future?
    TS: One of the goals I want to achieve is to be better at working more parallel. I need to start writing faster after a tour or maybe even during the tour. I really don’t want it to go 1.5 years before I start to write again.
    My other plan is to do the same tour I did last time, when we was touring around in the United States and UK .

    MB: Which place did you like the most?
    TS: It has always been a dream to tour in the United States. Even my band was into touring there. Every day, we ran into a new city and we all thought it was really exciting.  UK was also nice, but a little more grey. It was really fun to travel with the band Years and Years because they have wonderful fans and they are really great guys.

    MB: What kind of music do you like?
    TS: I haven’t listened too much to music lately - just my own. But I listen to a lot of podcasts.

    MB: Do you like any old music then?
    TS: The first musician I really liked was Bob Dylan and Patti Smith.

    MB: What do you think about Bob Dylan was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature? Do you like him?
    TS: I like his texts very much. He's damn good at rhyming.

    MB: What are you doing for the holidays?
    TS: I’m going  home to my family in Umeå. Everyone will be there! And I especially can’t wait to see my sister’s child.

    jacket DIESEL
    shirt BACK
    skirt 2ND DAY
    stockings LOUISE KÖRNER
    shoes J.LINDEBERG 
    jacket WHYRED
    overalls 2ND DAY
    jacket WHYRED
    blouse 2ND DAY
    jacket STELLA MCCARTNEY
    top BACK
    ring MARIA NILSDOTTIR
    jacket WHYRED
    blouse, jeans & shoes 2ND DAY
    stockings WOLFORD
    earrings ARTIST'S OWN
    jacket WHYRED
    overalls 2ND DAY
    top LOUISE KÖRNER
    tousers MONKI
    sunglasses KAIBOSH
    ring MARIA NILSDOTTIR

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