• photography by JÖRGEN AXELVALL

    The Family of the Future

    Written by Mari Florer

    “The Family of the Future”

    The Tokyo based contemporary photographer Eiki Mori started to explore the themes: same-sex marriage, family and sexuality as a teenager; portraying his mother, lover and friends using his father’s camera. Today, he still does and he himself acts in front of the camera in diverse family situations. In Eiki Mori’s new Photobook “Family Regained”, launched in December, Mori, with the history of oppression of homosexuals in his mind, presents the gay family as it should have been.

    Odalïsque had a chance to speak with EIKI MORI during his latest solo exhibition entitled Family Regained at Ken Nakahashi Gallery.

    What is your exhibition “Family Regained” about?
    Family Regained is a portrait series, in which I shoot myself with my friends, acquainted lovers and young couples of more than 40 of those people in several forms of Family, including being alone. I take the pictures at their place and yard, where they are live, using the self-timer function.
    The title is borrowed from the epic, Paradise Regained by English poet John Milton. Back in time when it was a crime for homosexuals to just being in love, there were those who loved with the risk of their life. Lovers who were unaccepted of even imagining of marrying or having children. I photographed imagining The Family of the Future that should have been theirs.

    What does the word “family” means to you?
    Someone you feel infinite love for, or in a relationship with, this is “family” for me.

    What is your best photo memory you ever have experienced in your life so far?
    Ten years ago, when I met my mother in Tokyo after a long time of each other’s absence, we went to the beach. At that time, my mother was very young and beautiful, but at the same time I felt afraid my mother would disappear if I captured her in the perfect form of beauty. So, I photographed her in the shining sunlight at the beach with a disposable camera which I could not hope for quality. The pictures were insufficiently over or under-exposed, but those are still my most precious pictures, filled with my love for her.

    Is there an artist you really really like?
    Hervé Guibert, It might be laughable, as it is my selfish delusion. I somehow feel myself as a reincarnation of him, who died of AIDS at the age of 36. I may not have his talent, but I feel I should undertake what he couldn’t finish, and continue writing and shooting.

    What do you long for in 2018? Is there any undone photo project you want to fulfill?
    A new performance work with the theme of a fictitious poet, with moving images and textual work.

  • EoE - Made with Love

    Written by Meghan Scott

    In these dark days, here in Sweden, just before the winter solstice, we search for glimmers of joy because honestly, the lack of daylight can be downright depressing, the word ‘cozy’ is thrown around like an old rag doll just to keep the PMA flowing. We dream of sunshine and breezing out of the house in our light clothes with our favourite sunnies on, and if the clouds decide to part on a winter’s day for even just 15 minutes, you’re damn right we’ll be slapping those sunnies on and chasing that dream.

    Sunglasses are a staple in almost everybody’s life, we wear them on the most visible place of our bodies, our face, if we need to correct our vision, we opt for a frame or non-frame that will be part of our daily life. We look for something that is aesthetically pleasing and feels great, something we basically love. And to find a pair that is made by an truly admirable couple is a bonus. I had the chance to chat with Emelia and Erik Lindmark of EoE about their inspirational optical and sunglasses brand. This couple makes me believe in the universe, that the stars align just right and good fate exists and that’s a glimmer of joy, folks! They have a synergy that emanates out of every pair of sunglasses and specs they create. The design process from beginning to end, from the drawing board to your own face is well thought out, there is a story and a place behind each style. When you acquire a pair, you feel like you’re taken care of, mom and dad are right there, you’ve made a good decision and you feel proud. They’re made with love.

    There is something to be said about the term made with love, it’s real. The other evening I made a giant pot of borsch, I was so relaxed and focused, feeling so grateful and happy, just chopping the ingredients into a pile of little matchstick sized pieces, it was a meditation of sorts. Slow cooked, no stress, it was made with love. My four and a half year old daughter told me while she was gobbling it up that it was so good that I should have a ‘borsch restaurant’. To the average grown up it was probably pretty decent, before Stockholm I lived in New York City for seven years and cooking was NEVER a hobby, pastime or even a necessity at any point during my stay. That's just a recent example of no matter what the situation is, if we are genuinely connected to what we practice everyday, the outcome is fulfillment. We eat food to stay alive, we put on a coat to go outside, and toss on a pair of shades if it’s bright out, and then join the daily grind. Imagine if all this was always done with genuine thought, dedication, patience and love? When these ideologies are poured into something, we will feel the connection.

    People are craving experience over material items, decisions are becoming wiser, unless you’re The Scary Orange Monster, but that’s another story. Minimalism is becoming a lifestyle for a growing number of people, as we become more and more connected each day, as our “lives” unfolding on social media, we are always sending or receiving a message. We spend so much time akin to the world through the little screens in our pockets, taking in so much information, both good and bad, we are especially exposed to so much atrocious human behaviour, that we are intuitively attracted to things that involve love. We have the information, we can make educated decisions and move in the right direction towards a better world for everybody, even or especially with the algorithms.  A couple like the Lindmarks of EoE are part of the driving force to a better world, and like others on this path, their story is unique and inspiring.

    The idea of naming your glasses after towns and places in the North of Sweden and your sunglasses after Swedish beaches and resorts in Sweden is really cool, do you take a lot of inspirational trips when creating concepts for your collections?

    Yes we do! We own a house up in a small village called Ammarnäs (where the road ends in Swedish Lapland). We go there several times a year just to listen to the silence and find inspiration. It can be the Northern Lights or just a color on a stone that makes us come up with ideas. During summertime we also try to travel to different small islands in the archipelago to find inspiration.

    Are you both from the North of Sweden? Did you meet each other there?

    Yes we are, we grew up not very far from one another, but we actually didn’t meet until we were studying at the Umeå University. We were both engaged in Social Entrepreneurship and found each other both as partners and business partners.

    Ah, that is so sweet! It’s so bloody dark in the winter months, especially in the North, and in the summer months it’s basically constant sun. It seems that multiple pairs of sunglasses are a must for one who resides on such a high latitude. Have you both always been ‘sunglass junkies’?

    Haha! Yes, your right, during winter we kind of never get any daylight at all…. And then during summer you cannot sleep without dark curtains. We both did love sunglasses since it’s a necessity up here, during spring when the snow still lays, you definitely need them for the strong reflection from the snow.

    Did the idea of designing sunglasses come first or optical frames?

    Optical came first! We have bad vision and we individually automatically bought glasses every time we went abroad without really discussing it, since the range was so limited where we lived. There was a definite market for it. We wanted glasses to be an accessory and not a constraint.

    Individually, what is your favourite EoE sunglass style? And optical style? Why?

    I love our Lovvikka frame! It is perfect both as sunglasses and optical I would say, bold but still so thin and rimless, like ice.

    What sort of sustainable practices do you implement in your production?

    We use cellulose acetate, a thermoplastic derived from wood pulp, it’s the material most often used in spectacles and toothbrushes. Phthalates are chemical substances used to soften plastic, some of them are so toxic that they are banned in all toys and childcare articles. If you remove phthalates and instead use a longer curing process, you get a plastic acetate that is just as strong, it’s the environmentally friendly kind we use in our organic collections.

    Do you feel that consumers are catching on to the idea of making conscious decisions when shopping?

    Yes, we can see a big change, some years ago it was only in food, like a fairtrade coffee or bananas. Today people wants to know how a brand is working when it comes to sustainability and CSR. And I think this is just the beginning, just look at Gucci, they stopped using fur during 2017, it’s great!

    Which celebrity would you love to see wearing your designs? And which style could you see them in?

    We actually got Alicia Keys wearing our Maxida collab frame! That was a milestone, she is amazing and with good values, which is important to us!

    The Maxida Märak collab frame are a hit, love them, so cool that Alicia Keys has them, it’s like a perfect match! Maxida is such an amazing person, how was working with her and what did the design process entail?

    She is truly genuine and great! She was very involved in the design, everything from how the temple would look like, to a nose ring that came with the frame that she drew herself to look like a hoof from the reindeer.

    How inspiring! Where you drawn to work with Maxida because of her dedication to the Native People in the North of Sweden?

    Yes she stands for good values and really work towards helping the Natives in Sweden, it felt important to us to work with someone that have the nature as close to heart as we do.

    Do you have any plans in working with other gems like Maxida?

    Yes, we just do collabs with people that also stands for working towards a better future, so there will be definitely more of these engagements to come.

    How exciting, can’t wait to see. Working together as a couple sounds very fun, one must have a special bond to create in synergy, do you have any inspirational or special ‘tips’ for this process?

    Yes it is, we always say that we know eachothers strengths and weaknesses so much that we don’t argue about small things like housekeeping at home, which is nice. We also really respect each others workload, which I think is important, and we have the same goals for us and our one year old son’s future. I believe working towards the same goal is important for this process.

    If you could collaborate with a big fashion house or designer, which one would it be?

    Yes, we have one that would be a dream collab… Stella McCartney! She is working with fashion in such an amazing way, high fashion with a story, at the same time as she makes good quality with a sustainability mindset and technological development.

    Love Stella, I can imagine that would be an utterly cool collab, make it happen! What sort of time frame do each of your collections have? Do you have a certain number of collections a year?

    Yes we do collections twice a year, often more optical during fall and sunglasses during spring. Each frame is handmade and it takes about 12 months from a drawing to the frames are in the stores.

    Nice to have such care in the process. What are your carryover collections? And most popular styles?

    Almost all glasses are carryovers, it’s important for us as a sustainable brand not to do frames that are out next season. We often makes small changes like colors or details in a new material. We work a lot with materials from the North, like birche or reindeer antlers. I would say our After-Ski and Renskär sunglasses are super popular. On optical, Nattviol is a classic frame and Liljekonvalj are favourable.

    Where do you sell the most?

    Scandinavia and Italy

    The wise decision would be to invest in two pairs and call it a day,  Ammarnäs Midnight Sun
    for overcast and cloudy days and Nattviol Northern Black Matte for those sunny ass days when the sun won’t quit.

    Check out the spread produced by Odalïsque featuring EoE here.

  • photography by SANDRA MYHRBERG

    An Interview with Paula Pantolin of Pantolin Fine Jewellry and La Maison Bagatelle

    Written by Meghan Scott

    Fine Jewelry designer, Paula Pantolin is a true artist in her craft, surrounded by a lifetime of creativity and drawing inspiration from around the world, her pieces speak differently to each individual who adorns these treasures. Paula started her brand immediately after school; “I have studied art and always been working on art along the way, creative projects and work.”  Working on only commissions and gallery exhibitions with Pantolin, Paula decided to simplify everything and start an aktiebolag (Swedish for “corporation”) for Pantolin last year and started this collection. Her collections are a beautiful selection of truly exclusive pieces; 18k gold chain necklaces, small rose gold rings adorned with precious gems and a subtle Pantolin signature locket charm hanging down, stunning lockets with carved mother of pearl to mimic fish scale, the details are extaordinary. I can imagine wearing the same piece to my best friend's wedding and also with an everyday street style look, the diversity is limitess. Probably where her raw sophistication sentiment was inspired from.  I had the chance to spend time with this inspiring gem and learn more about her story behind her and her brand Pantolin Fine Jewellery and their sister brand La Maison Bagatelle.  

    What sort of decisions on ethical practices in regards to consumption, sustainability and sourcing do you implement in your company?

    I used to do make everything myself with precious metals and stones sourced from ethical mines. I have now found a great workshop in Bangkok that also produces fine jewelry for Chanel and Louis Vuitton. I visit the workshops as much as possible; there is no harsh labour or child labour, it’s a high quality working environment and recycled materials are used as much as possible.Obviously there are absolutely no blood diamonds used  and the workshop’s owner’s family actually owns the mines in which the precious stones are sourced from, which is a very high standard facility and there are no middle man/hands involved.

    Do you take your ethical practices into your everyday life?
    Yes, indeed! My shopping decision for example; all my furniture is either vintage or remade, same with most of my clothes. I don’t buy fast fashion, I’d rather remake something or buy one nice piece instead of two trendy pieces. I try to think twice (difficult since I love beautiful things) and don’t over consume, my mother was always swapping things instead of just buying new stuff. I believe my clients also have an awareness to ethical practices, like me, they want a more beautiful world, so they may combine their Pantolin with a family heirloom or a special vintage piece that is special to them.

    Could you tell us a story about your development as an artist?
    I feel like I can’t remember not feeling like an artist, from very early memories when I was about four or five sitting on a swing and looking at everything and how painfully beautiful, trying to understand and then when I got older realizing that the real world wasn’t so beautiful and just wanting to make it meaningful and give some beauty to everybody.

    Do your children play a part in the Pantolin Story?
    As the heritage continues, they are basically brought up in a studio, no matter the size of the home. I'm a quite messy person so sketches are everywhere..There are always ideas flowing, the thinking process. They see me sketching , developing the designs, give their opinions. Recently, my oldest daughter is giving a more mature point of view and input, which is very inspiring. I don’t push it though, I let it happen organically.

    They’ll probably continue the legacy then?
    My grandmother was an artist, and my mother; it’s the wholeness of it all, I’m not going to write it on the wall, but it’s there. My father is an inventor and entrepreneur , the legacy will probably proceed in one way or another..

    Where do you mostly draw your inspiration from?

    I always seem to throw myself into different kinds of challenges, which often are very exciting and inspiring. My mind needs the ocean, I always want to be near the ocean, I collect energy from the water, that’s what makes it flow. Nature is a big influence. Passion. Also from culture; books, music, theater, things that have a story. I love to try finding the meaning of it all,  the spectre of small things happening , I want to interpret to exquisiteness.

    And you can see it in your work, it’s worth the fight against the mainstream, especially these days. I have seen that there is a new “new” way of creating diamonds basically in a lab, compressing the carbon atoms? Not sure of the full science of it, but what do you think of this way?

    I always go for the real things! , I don’t want to take away the magic of the stone, the history; for example, black diamonds, the are so mystic and raw. And as mentioned before, I am very ethical in my practice, there is no blood on my diamonds.

    In your collections you have a very unique custom piece, the Sky cuff, it has a really cool story behind it, could you tell us about it?

    Oh yes, It's a “fuck off”  piece of jewellery;) One of my best customers was unhappy, and later she got divorced. She asked me if I could make something beautiful for her, and she gave me a pouch with the wedding rings and a lot more gold and free hands for me, and I melted it all down , took out the diamonds, and made the special Sky cuff, that she wears everyday.

    You started your subsidiary or “sister” brand Maison Bagatelle, could you tell us a little more about MB?

    That was my birthday present to Pantolin's 10 years anniversary! My customers were going on about me making also a custom line, and one night I woke up with the La Maison bagatelle idea. A chance for me to play, use my sense for fashion and also, since I earlier designed for another bijoux brand, I learned how to scale up, and I wanted to do that without making less quality in the pieces. Also the ethically production was a quality choice to me. I want all my Jewellery to last a long time.


    You had an injury a little while back that was quite scary and could have changed your life course, could you elaborate a little on that and how you’ve moved forward and fought through that time?

    After many years producing my own jewellery by the bench, and as it turned out , of some defect I didn't know I had, suddenly I lost sense in my right side, I couldn't move my arm, and absolutely no drawing! I was used to headache for many years of stress; trying to coexist my company, extra work while raising three small kids, however this time it was different. After an X-ray they realized it was critical, and my neck was really injured. After the operation which left me with a metal cage in my spine, my doctor told me that I could never work the way I do again. I took a time to think, took a really deep breath and decided to get help with the production. I was sketching to get well. So instead of giving up, I upscaled. I managed quite surprisingly ended up getting the dream workshop to work with me! I gave them a three hour presentation and they let me in right away. Now I create the ideas, the samples and so some of the production myself and they do the rest. In my family, the heritage of running your own business and never giving up is something I'm so proud of.

    If you want to treat yourself or that someone special to a really unique piece, or want to see more, visit her here and here for Maison La Bagatelle. Also, check out the editorial with exclusively Pantolin and  Maison Bagatelle pieces here. 

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