• I told you I'd be home most of the day - a meditation on longing by Josef Jägnefält

    Written by Natalia Muntean

    Swedish artist Josef Jägnefält’s first solo exhibition at Saskia Neuman Gallery, I told you I'd be home most of the day, invites viewers into a world where ordinary objects become powerful carriers of hidden stories and emotions.

    Throughout the exhibition, we are invited to explore the delicate balance between stillness and longing, where the most intimate objects become reflections of human desire. “I don’t think about a story,” says Jägnefält, “I think about the colour and how to get there.” This focus on details and colour lends the works a quiet yet powerful emotional resonance and captures the tension between what is revealed and what is left unsaid, offering a visual meditation on longing and desire.

    I told you I'd be home most of the day will be on display until September 26th at Saskia Neuman Gallery in Stockholm.

    Natalia Muntean: Could you tell me a bit about how you started as an artist? Was there a decisive moment when you realised this was what you wanted to do?
    Josef Jägnefält:
    I applied to art school, encouraged by friends and family. I initially studied printmaking, but when I applied to university, I focused on painting full-time.

    NM: Did you grow up in a family of artists?
    JJ:
    My mother was a teacher who sometimes taught art classes, though she wasn’t a trained art teacher. She enjoyed it, and her mother was also an amateur painter. It was always present in the family, but no one pursued it as a career until me. My brother is an architect, which is somewhat close.

    NM: Do you have any routines or methods that help get you into a creative mindset?
    JJ:
    Going to the studio every day and just continuing to work is key. Eventually, something happens. My process is slow, using small brushes. It sometimes feels like I haven't done anything for a week, but when I return to the work, I realise things have moved forward.

    NM: How does the journey go from gathering images to creating a painting? And how do you decide which ones will become paintings?
    JJ:
    I save images on my phone or computer, and they can come from anywhere—books, online, or even everyday observations. Everything gets processed digitally, but I like to print the image to have a physical copy. From there, I might make a simple drawing or use transfer paper to trace it onto canvas or another surface.
    It’s a very intuitive process. I might find an image, save it, and maybe a year later it resurfaces when it feels ready. It’s not immediate; it’s more about timing and seeing when an image feels right. I print a lot of images and experiment. Instead of starting with a big painting, I might begin with a smaller one to test it. Over time, I’ve painted over so many works, only to later find a picture of the original painting and realise it was interesting. But by then, it’s gone because I painted over it. I’ve ruined many paintings like that and regretted it later. Now, I try to stop before I get to that point, so I can restart the same painting if I need to.

    NM: How do you decide which materials to use for a painting? What materials or techniques are important for expressing the feelings you want to convey?
    JJ:
    I used to buy large canvases and aim for perfection, but it became time-consuming and creatively limiting. After moving to Stockholm, I began using scrap materials like MDF or wood from building sites, which brought more variety into my work. The paint itself is very important. I usually use acrylic paint, which can be in any colour, for my larger paintings. With acrylics, I can be adventurous and use different colours, mixing them as I like. With oils, I limit myself to five colours, inspired by LS Lowry, a British painter known for his industrial landscapes of people in Manchester. This approach has significantly impacted my paintings, as it has forced me to really focus on finding the right colour. I enjoy the challenge of reproducing a printed pattern as closely as possible, but sometimes I can’t get the exact colour I want, which leads to something unexpected and I enjoy that.

    NM: Are there any materials you’d like to work with in the future?
    JJ:
    I’m always curious about new materials. My girlfriend is also an artist, and though she doesn’t paint, she uses a lot of different materials in her work. That’s a great source of inspiration, and we often share materials.

    NM: Do you give each other feedback on your work?
    JJ:
    Always! It’s important to have people you trust. I invite a few close friends to the studio to ask for their opinions. Sometimes you need an outside perspective to see if a piece is finished or if it works.

    NM: How do you know when a painting is finished?
    JJ:
    Sometimes I’m afraid of ruining it, so I stop. There are examples where I stopped too early, but that became a part of the piece. When I put the frame on, it’s like saying goodbye to the painting.

    NM: When you blend different sources like art history, photography, and magazines, do you feel you're creating a new story, or are you highlighting elements of existing ones?
    JJ:
    It’s a mix. It becomes a narrative, but it's not a clear-cut story. I don't have a storyboard or an ending. I want to surprise myself by putting images next to each other, and something happens. I'm not sure what it is, but it's fun to do.

    NM: I imagine that it's like a puzzle? You mix and match the pictures?
    JJ:
    I keep painting, and when the paintings are ready, something happens. I might work on several paintings at a time. Many of them get discarded, put on a shelf, and then, much later, I find something interesting and continue working. It might take a couple of years to finish a painting, but usually, it's a week.

    NM: So you go back to the ones you’ve put on the shelf?
    JJ:
    I save them. I have a lot from years ago. The oldest ones are in the basement where I live. I don’t think I’ll start working with them again.

    NM: Do you think some of the things you paint are parts of your memories, that you're attracted to certain images?
    JJ:
    Of course. When I see an image and I'm drawn to it, I think it’s my gut feeling signalling. I really believe in that, and I have to stay true to it.

    NM: How do you choose which elements you will distort in an image?
    JJ:
    It's just the painting process. Maybe when I get tired or bored with something, I start to change it. It's always about trying to get lost and not finding a way back.

    NM: So would you say your work is more intuitive or intentional?
    JJ:
    It's more intuitive.

    NM: In “I told you I’d be home most of the day” you have paintings of objects or fragments of objects, like the couch, the dogs or the teapot. How do you see their role in expressing hidden stories or deeper feelings?
    JJ:
    The way I work is more about getting interested in the image. I don't think about a story, I think about the colour and how to get there. Sometimes I aim for photorealism, but other times I get bored, or something happens during the process that takes it elsewhere. That’s part of the process. I didn’t know what the show would look like when I arrived at the gallery to install it. I’ve been trying things out in my studio, but when I got here, with the bigger walls, something else happened. I’m open to this change. I don’t have all the answers; I’m looking for them, just like the audience.

    NM: You just ask the questions. Can you tell me a bit about the title of the exhibition?
    JJ:
    I’ve been working with Staffordshire dogs or figurines of Staffordshire dogs for a couple of years and the title, “I told you I would be home most of the day,” came from an Oxford Dictionary example sentence. It connected with the dogs in a way that made sense to me. It follows the same logic as the images—I choose what works, even if I don’t fully understand why.

    NM: What caught your interest when it came to the dogs?
    JJ:
    I came across them at a flea market. I had never had a relationship with these figurines, but seeing so many at once was overwhelming. I wanted to buy them all and work with them, but they were too expensive. Even though I didn’t buy them, I kept thinking about them and eventually found them everywhere. There is also a story that made me want the dogs even more. In the 18th or 17th century, sailors bought them in English harbours and took them home. It’s rumoured that people would place the dogs on windowsills or fireplaces, and depending on how they were positioned—head-to-head or facing away—it would send a message. One way meant “no-go,” and the other was a signal that meant the lover could visit. When I was preparing for the show, I realised I hadn’t used this story in my work yet.

    NM: So you had the dogs, the love triangle story, and the title. What came first—the paintings, the story, or the dogs?
    JJ:
      It was a slow process. The images are different, but there’s a red thread tying them together. I wanted the story to be the ghost behind the exhibition, allowing viewers to interpret the details.

    NM: Your work seems to focus on small, sometimes unnoticed details of life. What attracts or inspires you about these elements?
    JJ:
    I think I enjoy looking at things, at small details in everyday objects, like the armrest of our Italian couch. I’ve been looking at this couch for so long, especially the armrest. It's almost abstract when you view it—it’s just two fields of colour. In the beginning, I saw it like that, just two colours. I kept it that way for a long time, and then I added movement to it. But I wasn’t thinking about couches and romance. My grandfather used to say to me that I got too close when drawing and that I would turn blind from straining my eyes. But I always liked focusing on details—there's a microcosmos everywhere. I sit in the corner of the studio with the painting on the easel. It’s not like a Jackson Pollock explosion—it’s very quiet. I think my images are quiet too. It’s like fishing - nothing happens on the surface, but there’s something beneath, waiting to change.

    NM: I agree they are quiet, but I don’t think there’s not much happening. The idea of longing seems central to this exhibition. How do you approach expressing such an intangible feeling in visual art?
    JJ:
    I don’t have an answer for that. It’s very intuitive—how it turns out is just how it turns out.

    NM: So, it's quite a meditative and introspective process?
    JJ:
    Yes, but sometimes the opposite—crazy.  Especially with deadlines. I build all my canvases and many of the frames, and when I’m frustrated, I hammer away—anger management. One of the portraits in this exhibition sat on the shelf for a while. I couldn’t get her face right. She was longing for something, but I ended up splashing paint over her—she turned purple or blackish red and disappeared behind the surface. I left the studio. A month later, I came back, and she was still looking at me, still longing.

    NM: How do you know when it’s ready? When it’s time to stop?
    JJ:
    Sometimes I’m afraid of ruining it, so I stop. There are examples where I stopped too early, but that became part of the piece—just realising I painted only a part of it. I think putting the frame on is my way of saying goodbye. Usually, I paint on just the board or wood, and when I build the frame, it feels like a final step—a way to let go.

    NM: How has your work evolved over the years?
    JJ:
    In art school, I wanted to be a painter of big, splashy, gestural works. I was inspired by German painters and American abstract expressionists. My classmates and I inspired each other, but it was a mismatch for me as a person. My graduation paintings were two by four meters—really big. But after art school, I travelled and needed to shrink my work to fit in a suitcase. When I moved to Malmö, I had a small studio in my apartment, so I couldn’t paint large pieces either. Eventually, I found that working on a smaller scale suited me better, allowing me to focus more on details. I think this detail-oriented quality about them was always there, but I took detours and kept coming back to focusing on details.

    NM: Is there a specific emotional response you'd like viewers to have when they see the exhibition?
    JJ:
    The response to the exhibition has been overwhelming. I could never have planned for it. There were a lot of people, and many kind things were said. Right now, it’s hard to answer that question, but I hope the audience sees parts of me in the work. I want them to have their own stories, and maybe together, we can create a new one.

    NM: So you paint and then let the work have its own life, in a way.
    JJ:
    No, I want them to spend a long time with me first. I need to have spent a lot of time with them.

    NM: Is that because you're a perfectionist or why is that?
    JJ:
    It’s more about having a dialogue with the painting if that makes sense.

    NM: I'd love to hear more about that dialogue.
    JJ:
    I want the paintings to grow into good paintings, even if they’re not perfect—because no painting is perfect. The source material is just that—source material. The painting has to stand by itself and be ready.

    NM: What's next for you?
    JJ:
    I'm longing for the studio. It's been a couple of nerve-wracking weeks before this exhibition, with ups and downs, so I want to get back to the studio. My girlfriend and I plan to visit Norway to look at some art and get new inspiration, and then we'll see. Nothing is planned, which is nice.

  • photography Sandra Myhrberg 

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist 

    all clothing Imaskopi

    In Conversation With Nelly Skog, Founder of Imaskopi

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Sandra Myhrberg

    Imaskopi’s non-gendered, hand-knitted and crocheted pieces defy norms of aesthetics and challenge gender conventions. Each garment, meticulously crafted in Imaskopi’s basement studio in Stockholm, is a unique expression of individuality. With production times ranging from 6 to 30 hours per piece, Imaskopi embraces the slow, deliberate process of creation.

    We sat down with Nelly Skog, the founder behind Imaskopi, to delve into her journey, inspirations, and the future she envisions for the brand.

    Natalia Muntean: How did you start your brand and what is your background?
    Nelly Skog:
    I usually say I started Imaskopi in 2020, but that was just when I created an Instagram account and uploaded pictures of sweaters.

    NM: Was it only sweaters in the beginning?
    NS: Yes, three sweaters maybe. But it's hard to say when it started. I didn't have a plan or anything. I did it for fun and wanted to do something with my partner, Emanuel, who had just started photography. He suggested that if I made something, he could take photos. That was how it started. Soon, the main focus of Imaskopi became creating a world where images, movement, music, and clothing brought this universe to life. I enjoyed that. At the same time, I started studying for my bachelor’s in gender studies and now I'm doing a master's in fashion history at Stockholm University.

    NM: Do you remember what was the first thing you did for Imaskopi?
    NS: I think it was a brown sweater with sleeves that had cutouts.

    NM: You mentioned your universe Imaskopi with music, movement, and photography. Can you tell me more about that?
    NS
    : One of the best things about Imaskopi is sharing it with my friends and family, and doing stuff together. My partner Emmanuel takes the photos, my friends make music and model, and my sibling, an artist, makes posters, for example. It's really fun.

    NM: Okay, so you bring it all together under this umbrella. Where did the name come from? What does it mean?
    NS: When I was thinking of the name, I wanted something related to knitting. The word maska means stitch in Swedish. The word Imaskopi means to be in secret understanding or collusion. I wanted to convey a sense of community or belonging.

    NM: Really cool! Your garments are non-gendered - what was the thought process behind it and how do you approach it?
    NS:
    Assigning gender to clothes before creating them is incomprehensible to me. A garment I make can signal combinations of masculinity or femininity, or something that is difficult to categorise, but then it's up to the person wearing it to combine it with their body and their expression in a way that they like. According to me, that is what fashion is about. What is perceived as masculine or feminine is constantly changing and renegotiated. I don't think about gender when I make something. I envision the person wearing it, thinking about their personality, not gender.

    NM: What does your target audience look like? What are their interests?
    NS:
    It's more like an image in my head, just fragments from a person.

    NM: When you think of Imaskopi, what type of person do you see wearing it?
    NS:
    Hopefully, anyone. From the beginning, I didn't want to communicate a specific person in mind. I wanted it to be open so anyone could combine it with their own expression. It's like a tool to make something your own. For example, the balaclava: many different people have bought it and combined it in various ways. It's versatile and has many different associations.

    NM: Did the idea of making non-gendered clothes start before you studied gender studies?
    NS:
    I think so. I always wanted it that way and never thought about gendering the clothes. Studying gender studies helped me formulate it better. It's rewarding to let theoretical work inspire practical work and vice versa. It heightened my interest and understanding of fashion and gender identity expressions, making it more interesting and fun.

    NM: Can you tell me a bit more about your creative process or what a typical day looks like at the studio for you?
    NS:
    My process is trial and error. I sometimes make drawings beforehand to remember an idea, not for technical details. I start with something, but 99% of the time it becomes something different because I get new ideas or things don't work out. For themes or collections, I gather references and start working together with my mum, and it evolves over time.

    NM: Where do you look for inspiration?
    NS:
    I don’t have a specific place. It's more about what's in my head, what my friends are talking about, or movies I've seen. Every movie can offer something inspiring, like an image or a character.

    NM: Do you have any rituals to get you in the creative space?
    NS:
    I come to the studio and try not to do anything else but work, which helps me stay concentrated and disciplined.

    NM: What kind of material do you work with?
    NS:
    I don't use any synthetic, so it is mostly mohair, wool, and cotton. And a lot of Merino wool.

    NM: Do you have specific colours that you go back to or use more frequently?
    NS:
    I don't think any colours are no-gos, but I tend to use a lot of black and blue. For the first collection, I didn't really think about colours that much. I just saw a colour I thought was lovely and I made something. But I didn't think it through before. But with the last two collections, I decided before what colours to use. So, the last collection was yellow, grey, black and white. And now I'm working with blue and black.

    NM: How do you decide on the themes for your collections?
    NS:
    It's hard to answer, but it's what I have in my head at the time. I write down different garments I want to try and then build on that. I don't have a specific method.

    NM: So the way you work is more intuitive than intentional?
    NS:
    I think so, yes. I get most of my ideas while I'm working. I don't get many ideas just sitting; I need to make something to develop further ideas.

    NM: What drew you to knitting and crocheting as your primary techniques?
    NS:
    First of all, I love working with my hands. I think it's very meditative and allows for freedom. As I said, my process is very much trial and error, so it’s very easy to make changes along the way. I think that's the main thing that I love about knitting - it is very free.

    NM: When did you learn how to knit?
    NS:
    In first grade at Waldorf school, and picked it up again when I got older. My mom taught me a lot, and I learned more from watching YouTube.

    NM: When you started, did you know you wanted to use this technique for your brand? Are there other techniques you'd like to use?
    NS:
    I've started sewing more now, using new textiles and fabrics combined with knitting.

    NM: You started a brand in a fast-paced fashion industry. How does it feel to grow a brand with a slow approach, making smaller collections and hand-knitting?
    NS:
    It's hard, but I try not to compromise. It works because I don't need to make a lot of money right now since I'm still studying. I just want to have fun and grow it slowly. I'm open to future possibilities but want to build this world slowly and do what I think is important.

    NM: Slow and steady wins the race. Are your customers primarily from Sweden?
    NS:
    Actually, most of my business on my website is from Japan, with some from the US and Europe.

    NM: How did your collaborations with Chimi Eyewear and Iggy Jeans develop?
    NS:
    Chimi reached out to collaborate with my balaclavas, and I agreed. With Ingrid from Iggy Jeans, we'd been friends for some time and had discussed collaborating. During COVID-19, Stockholm Fashion Week offered a video option, so Ingrid suggested that we should do something fun together.

    NM: What did you learn from these experiences?
    NS:
    First of all, I learned that I enjoy collaborating. I find it interesting that it always turns out into something different from what you first envisioned. And you need to learn how to communicate your vision, but also compromise and be open to new ideas.

    NM: Are there any other artists or brands that you'd like to collaborate with in the future?
    NS:
    Definitely! There are a lot of interesting brands, and I would like to do something with a brand that also has its roots in Stockholm. The dream right now would be to do something with Our Legacy. I really like their expression, and how you can see the creativity in the final products. I believe our aesthetics could complement each other well and create something great.

    NM: Good luck! You started the brand four years ago. What was the best moment related to its growth?
    NS:
    The shows have been the best. It's amazing to see everything come to life after envisioning it for so long. The people who work on the shows give so much, and sharing that experience with them and our audience is really fulfilling. I love making shows, and I also enjoy meeting and collaborating with new people.

    NM: What was the biggest challenge in these four years for you?
    NS:
    Like I said, the best things have been the shows, but also the most challenging. I had to also deal with the administrative part and it was quite difficult to do everything at the same time.

    NM: Do you have any memorable interactions or feedback from customers?
    NS:
    I've received a lot of cute messages that make me happy. It's wonderful when someone discovers Imaskopi, loves it and sends pictures. It makes me really happy.

    NM: Could you pick a favourite piece from what you've made?
    NS:
    I switch my favourites all the time, but for my last collection, I made a chunky cardigan that I really like.

    NM: Where do you want to take the brand in the future?
    NS:
    In the upcoming years, I want to do a show in a city other than Stockholm, maybe Milan. And I would also like to have a few more retailers in other countries. Most of all, I want to carve my own path, let Imaskopi grow slowly and not compromise on what is meaningful to us..

    photography Sandra Myhrberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist

    hair and makeup Adam Elias 

    model Moa O / Mikas 

    all clothing Imaskopi
  • Everything Opens to Touch: Sinéad O'Dwyer’s SS25 Collection - Zalando Visionary Award winner

    Written by Fashion Tales

    Irish designer Sinéad O'Dwyer made her debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week as the 2024 Zalando Visionary Award winner, showcasing her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Everything Opens to Touch.” The show was set in the picturesque Opera Park, where the atmosphere was transformed into a dreamy summer landscape. Sculptures inspired by O'Dwyer's early work with artist Jade O'Belle and a soundscape by Witch Trials and Cosha added depth to the experience. Cosha also read a poem written by London-based author Anastasiia Fedorova, enhancing the immersive nature of the show.

    Continuing her commitment to inclusivity, O'Dwyer collaborated with models and creatives, including Alva Claire and musician Mahalia, to bring her vision to life. For the second time, the brand partnered with the Hair and Care Foundation to ensure that blind and low-vision guests could fully experience the runway show. This included immersive audio descriptions, fabric swatches for tactile engagement, and the inclusion of blind model and broadcaster Lucy Edwards, who walked the runway with her guide dog, marking a first for Copenhagen Fashion Week.

    O'Dwyer’s collection reimagines her signature styles with new touches, including shibari-inspired harnesses with short sleeves, micro-culottes with rara ruffles, and fitted shirts in new materials like deep blue denim. The collection also featured collaborations with other brands, such as Grounds Footwear, which contributed bubble-soled shoes with laced-up uppers inspired by Irish dancing shoes, and Savage X Fenty, which provided lace underwear that peeked through layers of denim and wool. Ecco’s bags were customized by O'Dwyer in her signature 'Squiggle' stretch nylon.

    Zalando Visionary Award: A Celebration of Innovation and Inclusivity

    Following the runway debut, Zalando hosted an exclusive re-see of O'Dwyer’s SS25 collection and a panel discussion on inclusivity in fashion. Industry leaders joined Sinéad to discuss her inspiration, particularly her focus on curve fashion and the importance of designing for all body types. Sinéad emphasized that the problem lies not with the wearer but with clothes that aren't made to fit everyone.

    Jury members Giuliano Calza of GCDS and Edward Buchanan of SANSOVINO6 reflected on why they chose O'Dwyer as this year’s award winner. Edward highlighted that true inclusivity begins with involving models in the design process, a value central to Sinéad's work.

    Casting Director Emma Matell and artist Jade O’Belle also shared their thoughts on the importance of inclusive casting and how brands can integrate this mindset from the beginning. They urged the industry to move away from exclusivity and instead celebrate inclusivity as a core value.

    Hacinta Naidoo, Head of Diversity & Inclusion at Zalando, spoke about the company's ongoing commitment to a more inclusive fashion future. She shared insights into how Zalando is driving positive change through initiatives like the “Walk A Mile” campaign, which saw collaborations with designers, including panelist Giuliano Calza, to create an inclusive shoe collection that defied industry expectations.

    This event not only celebrated Sinéad O'Dwyer's innovative designs but also highlighted the broader movement towards a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry, one where everyone has a place.

    www.zalando.se
    www.sineadodwyer.com

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