AZ Factory was founded by the late great designer Alber Elbaz. Launched in 2021, it blends technology with fashion focusing on innovative and inclusive designs. The brand emphasises comfort and functionality, creating pieces that cater to a diverse range of body types and lifestyles. AZ Factory’s in-house designers Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin have for the first time together designed their very own Spring 2024 collection called “AZ Factory by Them”.
Susan Stjernberger: What made you join Alber Elbaz and AZ Factory when he started his new brand?
Norman René Devera: For me, it was quite easy because I worked with Alber previously and I always say Alber was the only person that was able to take me out of my first job at Céline with Phoebe Philo. Even though so many people approached me, it was only Alber with his whimsical and romantic way of speaking that moved me to Lanvin. It wasn’t even a second thought. This was the opportunity to continue the conversation we had begun at Lanvin and design together again. Alber was always the biggest inspiration for me.
Peter Movrin: Unlike Norman, I hadn’t worked with Alber before. I was at Central Saint Martins and Alber was doing interviews and asked me if I wanted to join him in this new project. At the time, I didn’t know the brand's name, I didn’t know the project, I didn’t know anything! It felt natural and Alber was such an inspiration to me that I accepted and moved to Paris!
SS: How do you compliment each other in the design and creative process? How do you work together?
NRD: I think we’re so opposite! Peter is so great, I’m going to compliment him now. He’s great at editing. I’m quite mental, so with P we’re a good balance. He’s also great with images. When we were with Alber and he was describing words that he would say out loud, Peter would come up with an image from his mental library archive. P is that voice of visual richness for me. How great is that? Jesus, you better say something nice as well.
PM: The skills Norman has are beyond! Yes, we are very much op- posite but it’s very natural working together. Norman knows how to translate the image into design. I’ll bring the image and then he’s off and already speaking with the 3D designer and the atelier!
SS: What made this the right time for your first collection called “By Them” together?
NRD: When Alber passed away it was always going to be a col- laborative form so I didn’t know if it was going to be a place for us to show our aspects. It only happened when we were in a meeting and I said “What if we did a collection, what if it was designed by us inside the house?” And that’s how the name “By Them” came about. Peter and I work very much by instinct and we love designing together so it felt right to do a collection by us.
PM: Norman said it all, the stars were in the right place!
SS: Could there be more collections by you again?
NRD: Inshallah! (I was laughing as it means “if God’s Will”). We have to wait and see especially with the format we have going with collaborations. One thing we have learned from Alber is to be patient and go with what comes naturally to us. We also love the element of surprise whether it be with the collaborations or when we design together.
SS: What is behind the AZ Factory Collaborations?
PM: You know it’s different. For example with Lutz, he’s already established with his own brand. But what’s especially interesting for us is the graduates, the future. We help them with the collection and give them the experience of working with an atelier, never forgetting Alber. They may think they don’t have anything in common with Alber or may not know him but when they dive into his past collections from YSL, Guy Laroche, or Lanvin they get inspired and even obsessed with it.
NRD: The turning point for me was when someone like Cyril Bourez described something and he used the same wording as Alber. I knew this was how Alber would have wanted it. Alber’s first collection was about every woman, the bigger woman, the smaller woman and Ester Manas fit in perfectly into that. And Thebe Magugu comes from Africa and Alber had African descent, so everyone and everything that has come into our collaborative world has a connection with Alber. That’s why it feels so correct. When Peter and I are designing, we always look at each other and say “Would Alber like this?” We’re always honing him in and continuing his legacy.
SS: What was the inspiration behind this collection?
PM: We imagined the day, what she would wear in the morning, during the weekday, the weekend. We looked at the silhouette
and draping.
NRD: The collection was really her day. She woke up and could wear her husband’s shirt, which opened the collection. Or, she could be wearing a lingerie piece and then she goes into this day dress which is a bit transparent, a bit playful with the flower print and then she goes into this miniature couture piece. There’s a garment for each time of day.
PM: All of this collection was beautiful, from the hair to the makeup, so nicely done.
NRD: True to the lady from the day, her makeup was very rock ‘n’ roll. You didn’t know if it was freshly put on or if it was from yesterday! The makeup was a story in itself.
SS: Any favourite looks from the collection?
PM: The teddy bear blue look. The draped dresses and I like the print, actually a lot of pieces.
NRD: Well, Susan, it’s like picking one of your children! Which one do you choose? Can you imagine? I think the whole collection just felt so unified. For me, it was the whole thing and I love it all.
SS: How do you work with sustainability? How is that a part of AZ Factory?
NRD: This is very natural for us. From when we are sourcing our fabrics it’s always the storytelling where we can get it the most
sustainable. From using second-hand to deadstock fabrics, it’s second nature for us.
SS: What inspires you these days?
PM: I just came back from London and saw the Central Saint Martins show and the students inspire me. The future is bright! Norman inspires me with his looks and these days he’s more down to earth wearing Loewe flat leather shoes.
NRD: Everything inspires me! I’m always looking at art exhibitions and searching on Instagram. You can see everything like Iris Van Herpen’s exhibit. It would be nice to see it in person but nowadays you have access to everything.
SS: What does a typical day look like for you?
NRD: We check in on emails, images, PR and design processes and when that needs to be 3D. And there’s a lot of research, draping and we laugh a lot too, telling silly jokes. We keep the morale mega-high!
SS: Last question, a bit fun. If your designs had a soundtrack what songs would be on it?
NRD: The Lion King, straight up the full album! Like the Circle of Life.
PM: I’m in a more gloomy and a bit darker mood before spring. So we have gloomy and Disney all in one! I’m listening to Diamanda Galás. I’m more in this mood right now. I’m floating around Paris with this kind of music.
NRD: Again that enriching side that Peter brings. Opposites that work perfectly together. We’re like twins. I’m Arnold Schwarzenegger and he’s Danny Devito… *and they both laugh hysterically, me included.
