• Gazing Bodies - a daring exhibition by CFHILL

    Written by Natalia Muntean

    In CFHILL’s latest exhibition, Gazing Bodies, the interaction between the viewer and artwork takes centre stage. Curated by Caroline Wieckhorst, in collaboration with writer Lo Hallén, the exhibition showcases international superstars like Sarah Lucas, Karon Davis, and Kennedy Yanko alongside Swedish luminaries such as Karin Mamma Andersson and Charlotte Gyllenhammar. The show delves into the idea of the ‘gaze,’ drawing on psychoanalysis, and questioning how artworks can seem to “gaze back” at the viewer. As Hallén explains, “Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and the way we think and converse in their presence,” creating a sense of power reversal where “they clearly hold a certain power.”

    The venue, CFHILL’s new space at the Armémuseum, plays a vital role in elevating the experience, with its historical setting and innovative design. “We love this 18th-century space,” says Michael Storåkers, Executive Chairman, “its beautiful natural light enhances the appearance of the paintings and sculptures.” This unique combination of venue and curation offers a profound exploration of identity, perception, and how art influences its observers.


    We sat down for an interview with Michael Storåkers, Caroline Wieckhorst, and Lo Hallén about the curatorial decisions behind Gazing Bodies, the impact of their new venue, and how the exhibition challenges traditional perspectives on art and the gaze.

    Natalia Muntean: CFHILL recently shifted to working more like a gallery. How has this new approach influenced how you curate exhibitions like Gazing Bodies?
    Michael Storåkers:
    We always wanted to bring the most exciting artists from all over the world to CFHILL, which is still the case, and we still work with the brightest external, international curators to make it happen. In Gazing Bodies, we combined some global stars we have worked with before, such as Paloma Varga Weisz, Klara Kristalova, and Kennedy Yanko, with Sarah Lucas and Karon Davis, together with some amazing Swedish artists we represent like a traditional gallery – among them Charlotte Gyllenhammar, Marie-Louise Ekman and Martina Muntzing.

    NM: With the move to the Armémuseum, how has the new venue shaped the experience of displaying artworks? Did the space's historical or architectural elements affect your curation decisions?
    MS:
    We love this 18th-century space; how you enter from the grand courtyard and dive right into the art. Its look is a take on the white cube, created by our three architects led by Valentin Nordström, which combines an innovative wall system with the historical setting. The space receives beautiful natural light from different directions, enhancing the appearance of the paintings and sculptures. The co-curators, Caroline Wieckhorst and Lo Hallén worked with the space to heighten the feeling that the artworks by the 22 artists gaze back at visitors.

    NM: What new things have come with your new way of working and the venue change? How do these changes benefit both the artists and the audience?
    MS:
    We wanted to move away from our previous ‘headquarter-style’ space and shift towards a more classic gallery venue. Now, we are in multiple locations throughout the year, participating in art fairs and similar events. Being CFHILL, we, of course, still aimed for something truly impactful, and I believe we’ve achieved the best of both worlds.

    Regarding this show, I think the white cube structure, the focus on the art in this space, and the beautiful natural light and historical setting support the artists and the audience in this Gazing Bodies experience.

    NM: The exhibition is called Gazing Bodies. Can you explain how the idea of the ‘gaze’ works in this exhibition, especially with the artworks being seen as if they have their personalities?
    Lo Hallén:
    I understand the interpretation of the exhibition text as suggesting that artworks possess personalities, but I wouldn’t use that specific word. To me, it imposes our odd human subjectivity onto them – haha. Instead, for the show, we thought of them as distinct entities with their own desires and demands, which we can't fully access or comprehend. Yet, they directly influence us as viewers. Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and think and converse in their presence. They clearly hold a certain power. It can evoke a sensation of being watched – the artwork gazing back – especially when a piece depicts or is reminiscent of a body.

    NM: You’ve included artists from both Sweden and other countries. How did you choose these specific artists, and how do their works connect to the exhibition’s theme?
    Caroline Wieckhorst:
    It’s been a privilege to work with these amazing artists and their artistry. A key for us has been finding a great mix and balance of art with different expressions and mediums that communicate with and challenge each other and us as viewers. Works that, in different ways, have their own gaze and agency, interacting with our emotions, challenging our perspectives and sometimes what we might take for granted or know to be true. How we interpret the artworks is individual, and this is the point – to shift the focus from how the artists, curators, and critics intend for the art to be interpreted and, instead, how the art itself makes us react and feel.

    For instance, an artwork that very literally gazes back at me is Ulla Wiggen’s eye, Iris. With its ice-blue colour, it’s hard not to feel watched and pierced through your inner thoughts. But is this how you would interpret or feel about this work? And Karon Davis’ sculpture Echo & Narcissus: Looking Glass, speaks to me about the fragility of life, with the plaster that is lightly pieced together and at the same time it holds a certain power and grace, that makes me act with a high sense of respect around it. Paloma Varga Weisz’s large bronze sculptures, Wilde Leute, make me want to hang and sit with them, despite their intimidating size. And Charlotte Gyllenhammar’s child sculpture, Beholder, makes me wonder what she is thinking of and how I best approach her. While Marie-Louise Ekman’s huge floor piece, 30 bilder, with her characteristic comic strip motif, makes me break the rules and let loose my inner side, walking all over the piece and acting more like a rebel. Or at least, trying to.

    LH: As Caroline mentioned, we aimed to create a thematic show where various aesthetics and perspectives are represented, with the body as a central theme. Some pieces are abstract, others figurative, but to me, they all convey a sense of the body. For example, Kennedy Yanko’s sculptural work using scrap metal and a material she calls paint skin – formed by pouring large amounts of paint onto a flat surface, which is then shaped and manipulated as it begins to dry – to me says something about what it is like to inhabit a body. It’s perfectly balanced yet also twisted and strange, pieced together in an oddly familiar way. Some parts of the work speak to me in more subtle and ambiguous ways, but this only strengthens its impact. Not everyone will interact with it this way, and it’s not an “intended” reaction, but that’s why we wanted the show so rich. I hope that at least one piece in the show will challenge, unsettle, or make each viewer feel self-conscious.

    NM: The exhibition suggests that the artworks might be ‘looking back’ at the viewers. How do you think people will feel about this idea of being observed by the artworks?
    CW:
    Aren’t we always being watched or observed? I think and hope that it might open up new ideas about who or what is watching us, and what this might mean to us. Being watched or observed, might not always mean Big Brother is watching. Like I mentioned previously, Wiggen’s work makes me feel watched and pierced through my inner thoughts, but someone else might think of it as a protector, or companion, making them feel less alone.

    LH: In the show, some artworks, like Karin Mamma Andersson’s About a Girl and Arvida Byström’s Clown, or Wiggen’s Iris that Caroline mentioned, feature piercing stares that demand a direct engagement from viewers and create a distinct sensation of being watched. The theme might not be intuitive for everyone, but I think it’s the experience many of us have when observing images and objects. W.J.T. Mitchell’s book What Do Pictures Want? was a big inspiration for the show’s theme, particularly his exploration of the power of images beyond traditional semiotic or rhetorical interpretations.

    NM: You mention ideas from feminist theory and psychoanalysis in the exhibition. How did these ideas shape the way you put the show together?
    LH:
    The feminist theory mentioned serves more as a background for the popularisation of the idea of the gaze. For the show's theme, we attempted to explore it in different ways. Many theories of the gaze aren’t focused on gendered power dynamics. I believe that allowing them space outside of academia benefits both art and feminism in the long run.

    Laura Mulvey’s influential essay “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema” appropriated psychoanalysis to highlight how visual media reinforces societal power structures. While this essay has been pivotal for art, film, and gender studies, it has also been said to focus too heavily on a specific interpretation of the gaze, steering away from other significant aspects. It’s not an issue with the essay, obviously, but rather a result of its popularity. For this show, we tried to engage with those other dimensions, though freely and associatively.

    CW: Feminist theories have served a great purpose in lifting questions of inequalities within the art scene (and other areas). If we can contribute to the continued work for feminism in art, by adding to the perspectives, lifting issues of how we value art, and using a different approach, it’s a big bonus for me.

    NM: Some of the artworks in Gazing Bodies look like human bodies and have qualities that feel both familiar and strange. How do you think these qualities help viewers reflect on themselves?
    LH:
    We found it interesting to work with motifs we initially reflect ourselves in, only to discover they are much more than mirrors. Perhaps the best way to reflect on oneself is to experience the fragmented parts of our identities without trying to piece them together, and instead rest in the strangeness. I think art, in general, helps with that.

    NM: The exhibition talks about the struggle between what we can understand and what we can’t when we look at art. How do the artworks show this tension, and what do you want people to take away from that experience?
    CW:
    I hope the exhibition will unlock questions and evoke emotions that last even after people leave the exhibition space. If we can make this happen, I think we’ve succeeded. For me, it's not so much about debating what we comprehend and what we don't, but rather about gaining new insights into how we perceive art and how art influences us. How do we react to, or interact with, art? Does it make us aware of our movements, thoughts or how we talk?

    LH: Personally, I find it important not to try to fully grasp an artwork through thought, or language, alone. If that is a sufficient approach, the piece should be a text rather than a visual work. Ideally, the artworks will reveal themselves in unique ways to different viewers, highlighting various aspects, making it an intimate and individual experience around a common theme.

  • photography Sandra Myhrberg

    The Man Who Speaks the Language of Dress: A Story of Art, Fashion, and Sustainability by Pavlo Blinov, Sweden/Ukraine

    Written by Aleksandra Mikhailova and Ksenia Rundin by Sandra Myhrberg

    At the Center for Retailing, Stockholm School of Economics, Ukrainian-Swedish artist and artisan Pavlo Blinov is introducing a new installation that fosters dialogue at the intersection of art, business, and sustainability. Through the Retail Art Program (RAP), an initiative by Professor Pierre Guillet de Monthoux to bridge the world of contemporary art with retailing, marketing, and consumer studies, a new conversation is emerging—one that connects aesthetic vision with business education, and through the new exhibition—sustainability.

    “The Man Who Speaks the Language of Dress” is an eclectic and symbolic exhibition co-curated with Odalisque Magazine and its Editor in Chief Sandra Myhrberg behind the camera lens. Pavlo Blinov’s installation is created using discarded everyday materials, which, when combined with his artistic vision, are brought back to life with new meaning, all while telling a deeply personal story. The installation therefore reflects not only on art and fashion but also on communication—revealing how fashion, sustainability practices, and craftsmanship can intersect to tell deeper stories, not only about human experiences but also brand identities.

    Pavlo Blinov, renowned for his work in costume design and scenography at the Royal Dramatic Theatre and the Royal Swedish Opera, brings his unique vision to this installation. “The Man Who Speaks the Language of Dress” draws inspiration from Ukrainian-born artist Ilya Kabakov and his concept of ‘total installation,’ where space and objects come together to create an immersive experience. Similarly, for Pavlo, dress becomes more than just a visual element: it is a space—a canvas—that reflects the world’s inconsistencies and imperfections as revealed through the artist's sublime perspective.

    The Orante: Transforming a Childhood Memory
    The centerpiece of the installation, “The Orante,”; features a finely crafted costume that includes a dress, a cape, and a halo-shaped headdress, which suggests a sacred symbolism while conveying a deeper personal meaning.

    As a child, Pavlo was deeply moved by the Orante fresco in Kyiv's Saint Sophia Cathedral, which depicts Saint Sophia in a pleading pose, surrounded by a gilded divine background. That memory has followed him into adulthood, and now, through this installation, Pavlo offers his own interpretation of the Orante. He reimagines the original androgynous figure, not merely as a religious symbol, but as a timeless expression of hope and veneration. Through his work, Pavlo redefines veneration as something internal—no longer an external symbol of control, but a force that protects and nurtures the human spirit. The dress becomes more than just an object; it becomes a vessel of this transformation.

    Upcycling in Retail: Harnessing the Power of Art and Sustainability
    In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, Pavlo Blinov’s work takes on new relevance, particularly through his practice of upcycling—the process of transforming discarded materials into something of higher value. In the art world, upcycling is more than just a trend; it’s a way to reimagine value and push the boundaries of what materials can become when viewed through a creative lens. Pavlo’s expertise in costume design and scenography is evident in how he manipulates these materials, transforming what could easily be seen as waste into art. His work on some of the biggest theatre stages in Sweden has given him a deep understanding of space and composition, a skill clearly reflected in his upcycled pieces. Each element is carefully considered, with every material chosen for its potential to be reborn into a new story.

    Presented in an environment reminiscent of shopping window displays, the installation speaks not only to art enthusiasts but also to those engaged in the world of retail. It challenges us to reconsider our perception of materials and encourages to explore the intersection of arts, retailing, and sustainability. Pavlo's creative transformation of discarded materials mirrors a growing movement in the retail industry, where brands are increasingly embracing sustainability through upcycling in visual merchandising. Traditionally window displays, often created for short-term campaigns, contribute to waste when they are dismantled and discarded after use. However, some forward-thinking brands are changing this narrative by incorporating upcycling into their window display designs.

    Brands like Dior, Aesop, Selfridges, and Anthropologie often turn to production remnants, scraps, and repurposed materials to craft unique, sustainable displays that not only showcase creativity but also communicate their sustainabile values to consumers. In Sweden, Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) is known for its innovative use of upcycling and recycling practices in its iconic Christmas window displays, offering a local example of how sustainable values can not only coexist with, but also stimulate creativity and artistic vision. Through upcycling and his unique immersive approach to dress, Pavlo invites the public to engage not only with the materials and spaces but also with the deeper meanings behind them. In a world driven by consumption, this installation reminds us of the power of transformation— unlocking potential in what we already own and creating value from what others overlook. It is about the stories we tell and the future we envision.

    As Pavlo Blinov’s installation connects art, retailing, and sustainability, it mirrors the very conversation that the Retail Art Program aims to inspire: one where creativity, artistic vision, responsibility and business acumen come together to reimagine the spaces we inhabit, the resourses we use, and the stories we tell.

  • images courtsy of UNIQLO photography Julia Sixtensson

    Peace for All x Magnum Photos

    Written by Art Editor

    On September 18th, UNIQLO and Magnum Photos opened the first-ever global photo exhibition in Kungsträdgården, Stockholm. The exhibition portrays the everyday lives of people affected by humanitarian crises and supported by organizations such as UNHCR, Save the Children, and Plan International. The global exhibition will take place in public spaces in more than 10 cities around the world and is free of charge. The exhibition runs until October 17.

    Peace for All is a charity project initiated by UNIQLO aimed at contributing to positive change in the world through clothing. As part of the initiative, T-shirts are designed by renowned designers, artists, and photographers, with 100% of the profits from sales going directly to three international humanitarian organizations: UNHCR, Save the Children, and Plan International, which help people affected by poverty, discrimination, violence, and conflict. Two years after the project began, more than four million T-shirts have been sold globally, raising 8.8 million USD.

    More about the photographers behind the exhibition:

    Cristina de Middel in Vietnam
    President of Magnum Photos since 2022, Cristina de Middel visited the Plan International, our donation recipient, is operation in Vietnam, where the organization is working toward realizing a world in which young women are protected from damaging customs like child marriage and can freely choose the lives they want to live. Through her work, Cristina de Middel hopes to inspire the next generation to see that if they want change badly enough, they will see the world change before them. Meeting the children of Vietnam, she says that she could feel how excited these young people are for the future, which she found thrilling.

    Olivia Arthur in Romania
    Documentary photographer Arthur headed to Romania, where she captured the education aid, mental healthcare, and food aid programs being organized for refugees from Ukraine by Save the Children which is our donation recipient. Imagination is a child’s greatest asset. Using her lens, she captured the kid zones set up in a Save the Children Counselling Hub so that children can be children and express themselves through play.

    Lindokuhle Sobekwa in Ethiopia
    Hailing from South Africa, Sobekwa started his career photographing scenes of poverty and unemployment. For this assignment, he went to Ethiopia, where he captured the aid efforts of UNHCR which is our donation recipient. Paying witness to the everyday lives of Somali refugees in Awbare’s refugee encampment, his photos center on the themes of hope, dreams, and resilience. The rainbow featured on the T-shirts is a metaphor for hope and brighter tomorrows.

    If you're unable to visit the exhibition in Stockholm, it will also be available in cities like London, Amsterdam, Rome, New York, Hanoi, Paris, Berlin, Singapore, Madrid, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, and more. For more information about the exhibition, please visit: uniqlo

    It also coincides with the launch of the new PEACE FOR ALL x Magnum Photos T-shirt collection.

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