• All images by James Cochrane 

    Alectra Rothschild/Masculina Discusses the Inspirations Behind Their SS25 Runway Show and Collection

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    On the first day of Copenhagen fashion week ss25 tailor turned designer Alectra Rothschild showed her new collection for Alectra Rothschild/Masculina.  We asked her about her process, challenges and the future of Masculina. 

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process in creating the ss25 runway show?

    Alectra Rothschild: The process has been intense! My first instinct right after showing the the REBIRTH carry at FW24 was that i wanted to models to be lifted up. To be on a sort of pedistal to make a quite literal societal powershift as the the majority cast are trans and otherwise at the margins of society so i want everyone at the show to look up at Them - where we truly deserve to be.

    UL: How did you chose the location for the runway show?

    AR: Me and inter.agcy had a hard time finding a location this time as I wanted the show to be open to all this time. MASCULINA is for everyone 

    UL: What does the SS25 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for his collection?

    AR: The collection is called “You are wasted here, you are a star” which speaks to the position of trans people in our society. You are wasted in this world because we are not appreciated for all that we are. WE ARE STARS

    For the collection ive been inspired by the intimacy that we queer people share in private Spaces. So its referencing the 20’s boudoir for getting ready. To sit at the vanity table and putting on ur makeup with you friends before going out, its the space after getting Home from a night out too. So there are ropes, nightgowns and hoodies. Its a very romantic collection that has remnants from the club.

    UL: What was the biggest challenge creating your ss25 collection?

    AR: TIME.

    UL: How would you describe the Alectra Rothschild / Masculina customer?

    AR: They are definently not afraid of being themselves. They appreciate glamour and getting dressed up.

    UL: What can we expect from Alectra Rothschild / Masculina in the future?

    AR: More p*ssy.

  • La Force de Melodie, exploring AZ Factory an Interview with Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin

    Written by Susan Stjernberger by Sandra Myhrberg

    AZ Factory was founded by the late great designer Alber Elbaz. Launched in 2021, it blends technology with fashion focusing on innovative and inclusive designs. The brand emphasises comfort and functionality, creating pieces that cater to a diverse range of body types and lifestyles. AZ Factory’s in-house designers Norman René Devera and Peter Movrin have for the first time together designed their very own Spring 2024 collection called “AZ Factory by Them”.

    Susan Stjernberger: What made you join Alber Elbaz and AZ Factory when he started his new brand?
    Norman René Devera: For me, it was quite easy because I worked with Alber previously and I always say Alber was the only person that was able to take me out of my first job at Céline with Phoebe Philo. Even though so many people approached me, it was only Alber with his whimsical and romantic way of speaking that moved me to Lanvin. It wasn’t even a second thought. This was the opportunity to continue the conversation we had begun at Lanvin and design together again. Alber was always the biggest inspiration for me.
    Peter Movrin: Unlike Norman, I hadn’t worked with Alber before. I was at Central Saint Martins and Alber was doing interviews and asked me if I wanted to join him in this new project. At the time, I didn’t know the brand's name, I didn’t know the project, I didn’t know anything! It felt natural and Alber was such an inspiration to me that I accepted and moved to Paris!

    SS: How do you compliment each other in the design and creative process? How do you work together?
    NRD: I think we’re so opposite! Peter is so great, I’m going to compliment him now. He’s great at editing. I’m quite mental, so with P we’re a good balance. He’s also great with images. When we were with Alber and he was describing words that he would say out loud, Peter would come up with an image from his mental library archive. P is that voice of visual richness for me. How great is that? Jesus, you better say something nice as well.
    PM: The skills Norman has are beyond! Yes, we are very much op- posite but it’s very natural working together. Norman knows how to translate the image into design. I’ll bring the image and then he’s off and already speaking with the 3D designer and the atelier!

    SS: What made this the right time for your first collection called “By Them” together?
    NRD: When Alber passed away it was always going to be a col- laborative form so I didn’t know if it was going to be a place for us to show our aspects. It only happened when we were in a meeting and I said “What if we did a collection, what if it was designed by us inside the house?” And that’s how the name “By Them” came about. Peter and I work very much by instinct and we love designing together so it felt right to do a collection by us.
    PM: Norman said it all, the stars were in the right place!

    SS: Could there be more collections by you again?
    NRD: Inshallah! (I was laughing as it means “if God’s Will”). We have to wait and see especially with the format we have going with collaborations. One thing we have learned from Alber is to be patient and go with what comes naturally to us. We also love the element of surprise whether it be with the collaborations or when we design together.

    SS: What is behind the AZ Factory Collaborations?
    PM: You know it’s different. For example with Lutz, he’s already established with his own brand. But what’s especially interesting for us is the graduates, the future. We help them with the collection and give them the experience of working with an atelier, never forgetting Alber. They may think they don’t have anything in common with Alber or may not know him but when they dive into his past collections from YSL, Guy Laroche, or Lanvin they get inspired and even obsessed with it.
    NRD: The turning point for me was when someone like Cyril Bourez described something and he used the same wording as Alber. I knew this was how Alber would have wanted it. Alber’s first collection was about every woman, the bigger woman, the smaller woman and Ester Manas fit in perfectly into that. And Thebe Magugu comes from Africa and Alber had African descent, so everyone and everything that has come into our collaborative world has a connection with Alber. That’s why it feels so correct. When Peter and I are designing, we always look at each other and say “Would Alber like this?” We’re always honing him in and continuing his legacy.

    SS: What was the inspiration behind this collection?
    PM:
    We imagined the day, what she would wear in the morning, during the weekday, the weekend. We looked at the silhouette
    and draping.
    NRD: The collection was really her day. She woke up and could wear her husband’s shirt, which opened the collection. Or, she could be wearing a lingerie piece and then she goes into this day dress which is a bit transparent, a bit playful with the flower print and then she goes into this miniature couture piece. There’s a garment for each time of day.
    PM: All of this collection was beautiful, from the hair to the makeup, so nicely done.
    NRD: True to the lady from the day, her makeup was very rock ‘n’ roll. You didn’t know if it was freshly put on or if it was from yesterday! The makeup was a story in itself.

    SS: Any favourite looks from the collection?
    PM:
    The teddy bear blue look. The draped dresses and I like the print, actually a lot of pieces.
    NRD: Well, Susan, it’s like picking one of your children! Which one do you choose? Can you imagine? I think the whole collection just felt so unified. For me, it was the whole thing and I love it all.
    SS: How do you work with sustainability? How is that a part of AZ Factory?
    NRD:
    This is very natural for us. From when we are sourcing our fabrics it’s always the storytelling where we can get it the most
    sustainable. From using second-hand to deadstock fabrics, it’s second nature for us.

    SS: What inspires you these days?
    PM:
    I just came back from London and saw the Central Saint Martins show and the students inspire me. The future is bright! Norman inspires me with his looks and these days he’s more down to earth wearing Loewe flat leather shoes.
    NRD: Everything inspires me! I’m always looking at art exhibitions and searching on Instagram. You can see everything like Iris Van Herpen’s exhibit. It would be nice to see it in person but nowadays you have access to everything.

    SS: What does a typical day look like for you?
    NRD:
    We check in on emails, images, PR and design processes and when that needs to be 3D. And there’s a lot of research, draping and we laugh a lot too, telling silly jokes. We keep the morale mega-high!

    SS: Last question, a bit fun. If your designs had a soundtrack what songs would be on it?
    NRD:
    The Lion King, straight up the full album! Like the Circle of Life.
    PM: I’m in a more gloomy and a bit darker mood before spring. So we have gloomy and Disney all in one! I’m listening to Diamanda Galás. I’m more in this mood right now. I’m floating around Paris with this kind of music.
    NRD: Again that enriching side that Peter brings. Opposites that work perfectly together. We’re like twins. I’m Arnold Schwarzenegger and he’s Danny Devito… *and they both laugh hysterically, me included.

    dress AZ Factory Archive SS22
    stockings Swedish Stockings
    shoes ATP Atelier
    gloves Handsome Stockholm
    sunglasses Maryam Keyhani
    bracelet Sägen

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    shoes Eytys

    ring Sägen

    Linda wears

    total look AZ Factory Archive SS22
    boots Stylist's Own

    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory Archive SS22

    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes ATP Atelier

    bracelet Sägen

    Linda wears

    dress & shoes AZ Factory SS24

    ring Sägen

    .
    Eden wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    .
    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    socks Swedish Stockings

    shoes New Balance
    earrings Maria Nilsdotter

    ring Susan Szatmáry

    Linda wears

    dress & shoes AZ Factory SS24

    ring Sägen

    .

    Eden wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    .

    Livia wears

    dress AZ Factory SS24

    socks Swedish Stockings

    shoes New Balance
    earrings Maria Nilsdotter

    ring Susan Szatmáry

    shirt & skirt AZ Factory SS24
    stockings Swedish Stockings

    shoes Eytys

    top & trousers AZ Factory SS24

    shoes New Balance
    jewellery Maria Nilsdotter

    total look AZ Factory SS24
  • PART XX “The Lovers”, 2021. photography Gunter Lepowski

    Bateau Rouge, An Interview with Constance Tenvik

    Written by Astrid Birnbaum by Sandra Myhrberg

    Celebrated for her mastery across performance, textile, sculpture, costume, painting, and drawing, Constance Tenvik stands as a visionary artist, crafting immersive installations that resonate globally. The upcoming exhibition at The Munch Museum in Oslo will no doubt elevate Tenvik to new heights. Whether nestled in artist retreats or exploring new countries, she seamlessly transforms each environment into a curated extension of her vibrant creations. In this global artistic journey, Tenvik’s oeuvre un- folds like a sophisticated maximalist, weaving together narratives, colour theories, and ex- aggerated forms that enchant discerning audiences. Drawing inspiration from the tapestry of humanity, dreams, and mythological fragments, her paintings intricately interweave, creating a chromatic collage that transcends conventional boundaries. Tenvik’s artistic allure has graced exhibitions across the world, solidifying her presence as a revered artist whose work resonates with the global artistic conscience.

    Astrid Birnbaum: Constance, I would like to begin this interview at the beginning. You are Norwegian but you were born in London in the year of 1990. As a child and teenager - did you surround yourself with creative things?
    Constance Tenvik: I was dancing Jazz-ballet four times a week and every other weekend until I was 16. I was also singing in a church choir for two years that I ended up in accidentally. I wanted to give emotional support to my friend by showing up with her to the choir audition. I ended up being in the choir but not her. I actually liked it a lot. I was not a perfectionist about it but I liked being part of it. We had a few concerts in the concert house. The nice thing about a choir is that if you leave while everyone is singing, no one will notice. If two people leave, it’s fine. If three people leave it really makes a difference. It’s not really about you, but you are necessary for the choir. I was a child when I picked up some parts of my dads CD collection that had everything from funk to Mozart’s Requiem. There was always music in the house. As a teenager I tried to find excuses to draw, I liked reading books and I was in a poetry club. I was already writing a diary. I still do, every day. I think a lot of artists have a need of documenting and remembering moments and making them last longer. I have recorded many things in my life - small things like everyday conversations, food, music and interactions.

    AB: When growing older you studied art. You went to Yale University School of arts where you did your masters degree. How were your years in art school?
    CT: My undergrad experience at the Academy of Art in Oslo gave me a good foundation. I still keep in touch with some of my professors from back then and remember things they shared with me. The Yale experience felt like I was building a vault of my interests. I had access to most courses across all fields, which is incredible. You could go to the biology department if you wanted to - you could go everywhere to learn. My daily route was studio - library - home. That was my little world there. I’d go to the Be inecke library for old manuscripts and I’d go to the HAAS library after studio visits when someone had just mentioned ten new artist names. I could then find a bunch of books about these artists and just flip through it all. Having libraries like that so close and in such an elevated environment - it really helped me build my world of thoughts and references. I am still ruminating over the things I learnt and the academic interests that were formed there. I was in the sculpture department, my studio was messy and full of experiments. I made a lot of things - like a bathtub out of paper mache with a three-breasted monster in it.

    AB: What was your first project after art school?
    CT: The day after I graduated I took everything I had and went to Kristiansand Kunsthall. For two weeks I prepared an installation and made costumes for everyone who worked there. I was jumping out into the real world. The same summer I went to Basel, Switzerland and did a performance called “Eye of the Tired” where I involved a drummer and a bodybuilder. Martin and Amy from Loyal Gallery in Stockholm were in the audience, and out of that performance, without having seen anything else I had made, they offered me a solo show. I was active and eager and probably absorbing a lot - I wanted to see and do things. Now I have more of a recognisable style than in the beginning. It took me a while to develop a distinguished style. One thing that drove me in the beginning was a curiosity about performance art. I was a child when I saw Matthew Barney’s Cremaster Cycles, a teenager when I saw Tori Wrånes perform, I’ve later participated as a troll in two of her performances and I must’ve been 19 when I saw Marina Abramovic at MOMA, I interviewed her for a Norwegian newspaper a couple of years later. Something staged that had to do with rituals - it was a mysterious thing.

    It was incredible to be in Los Angeles - the people, the creative vibe and the sea- son. I felt alive and inspired! The New York show titled “Finding Shelter Under a Giant’s Tongue” was with Harkawik, a gallery in Chinatown. For this show, I did paintings where I reimagined contemporary New York via the lens of Gargantua. Peter Harkawik visited me in Oslo the year before and told me I had to read Gargantua. So I did and became so obsessed that I had to read all five books in Norwegian and English. After reading those, written by François Rabelais, I also had to read Mikhail Bakhtin on Rabelais. Bakhtin points out that Rabelais's humour is humour that today we might find vulgar but might have more meaning than we allow it to give it now. I came to New York, I set up a studio for 3 months - maybe a little more this time. I really tried to restrain myself from not doing portraits and managed to only have two paintings of real people in the show. I focused on creating scenes for the rest of the show because I was so inspired in New York. During the first part, I lived in Little Jamaica and worked in Gowanus. For the second part, I lived in Chinatown and had my studio in Bushwick. Every day, I jumped up and got out on the street, meeting so many people. There is a lot of energy in the printing that I think comes from being in such a stimulating and ambitious place with so many great minds and hearts.

    AB: I know you are right now working on a big project in Oslo - the Solo Oslo series. Tell me all about that! You are working in Edvard Munch’s old studio, am I right?
    CT: Yes! I am at the fourth out of five exhibitions in this series that the Munch Museum has initiated. I haven’t worked like this since 2018-19. It’s very exciting. One of my favourite things in the world is to make installations but I feel like it is mostly suited to institutional places like Museums and Kunsthallen. More than in galleries. Now that David Zwirner hasn’t offered anything at least. *both laughing* I was supposed to have Edvard Munch’s old studio for the last couple of months before the show but somehow I managed to negotiate a way to have this studio from January to September. So now I have all this space - it’s so nuts. It really is his dream studio, with natural light coming in from the ceiling. I had a proposal to make an installation based on a play by Aristophanes called The Birds. The play is about two humans who are tired of living on Earth. So they go up to the heavens to convince the birds that they have to turn their bird world into an empire. At one point, the birds are the new gods. They are being praised and admired. Also - it’s so much cheaper to make temples out of hay than out of marble. But the gods are being starved by not getting the attention they’re used to getting from the humans, nor their sacrifices. So the gods start a war against the birds. I’m basically looking at humans by comparing birds, humans and gods. I like to take on big themes. Often times I’m centred around questions surrounding the human condition. What we do as humans and our desires. Yet sometimes it’s okay to just live. I think my portrait series is proof that my own investigations and people I meet can become art on their own. But I do also like to attack a bigger theme or something academic. It’s a way to keep growing and to keep being curious. I have a good team with me now at the Munch Museum. I think it will be very up- lifting to do this. I say no to most things these days to focus on this completely. I actually love to just do one thing at a time. Even if this thing involves a lot of elements. I want to transform a room and make it my world.

    AB: What are your hopes for 2024? Is there something specific that you are looking forward to?
    CT: I am excited to have this headspace. To go into this interest in the theatrical, philosophical, historical and mythological. It’s a great time to geek out. The horizon right now makes me feel dedicated and focused. My diary has been red or blue every other year. The red has always been like go go go – fire mode. The blue ones have been reminders to engage in contemplation. But this year, I have a black calendar. I feel like it’s a monumental year. Let’s see where it goes. I hope I do not get overpowered by my own expectations for this year, but I’m taking it seriously.

    photography Thando Sikawuti

    hair & makeup Ida Stokkeland / Gevir

    “Aloof Periwigs installation shot”, 2022. photography Matthew Kroening. Anat Ebgi Gallery, Los Angeles / New York
    “Anna Selects A Nipple Of Venus To Eat”, 2022. photography Matthew Kroening. Anat Ebgi Gallery, Los Angeles / New York
    “The Party At The Waldstadten Library”, 2022. photography Matthew Kroening. Anat Ebgi Gallery, Los Angeles / New York
    “How Gargantua Ate Six Travellers In A Salad”, 2023. courtesy of Harkawik
    photography Thando Sikawuti
    hair & makeup Ida Stokkeland / Gevir

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