• photography by SANDRA MYHRBERG

    An interview with Alistair Frost and Behnaz Aram

    Written by Michaela Widergren

    Fire Sale is a collaboration between artist Alistair Frost and designer Behnaz Aram. It is Alistair’s first time in Sweden and Behnaz first time curating.

    The day before the opening I sit down with the two of them at Bukowski’s auction house.
    We talk about the color pink, pears and how designing clothes and painting canvases are just two different ways of expressing yourself artistically.

    So the exhibition starts tomorrow, tell me, what are we going to see?
    Alistair:
    There are some new paintings that I’ve made during the last couple of months and then there’s some work from last year. There are also a few paintings from an exhibition I had in Scotland and some from Copenhagen.

    Tell me everything from the beginning, tell me the entire story.
    Alistair:
    Ok, where do I start…
    I guess what we’ve got here are these kinds of signs and symbols, kind of like contemporary life, or stuff you might find as graphic design, or on web pages or in text messages, things that are just out there, but very generic. And then they are re-configured and put together in different ways that creates a kind of semi-language of stuff. That is on the one hand quite celebratory of that kind of thing, of lifestyle and art, but it’s also on the other hand slightly cynical, kind of like laughing at everyone else but at the same time at myself too.

    We are sitting in the middle of the exhibition space, surrounded by Alistair’s art, the pieces have not been hung yet; they are standing on the floor leaning against the walls. We decide to talk about a few of them specifically. The first we talk about is a series of three cotton candy pink ones, just across the room.

    Alistair: All these pink ones, they all go together with a water cooler and they are going to be filled with vodka and pink lemonade. So you have this color pink, it’s almost as if the pigment of the paint is being transferred and put into the cooler for drinking.
    I’ve done a lot of work that has to do with bars and opening nights, you know, when everyone is kind of strutting around with martini glasses and that kind of thing. So this is a way to bring in that element, the sense of an opening night but making it a bit wrong, something that is not quite right.
    So we have two items that go with each other, the canvases and the coolers and then in the paintings there’s also a doubling up of imagery. One of the paintings has two pears on it. You know it’s a joke, a pair of pears. It’s quite dumb and stupid but then you have it with this calligraphic mark that makes it look fluid, easy and light.

    Alistair points at another painting; it says the word two on it and is split up in two images. He explains them as a still of when you swipe an image across the phone, but instead of a phone he does it with the canvas. There is a strong digital reference to most of the work, reminding us (at least me) of how disabled one feels without access to a computer or a phone. There is also a clear Miami vibe going on with a couple of the pieces, especially the pink ones.

    Alistair: All of the paintings I have been working on for the last few years are created while taking generics, like clip art and stock illustrations, to play around with, to draw on and repeat.



    Behnaz: The things is, there are some artists that when they do something it looks rough and it feels rough, your work is kind of cynical as you said, but also it has this lightness to it combined with color blocking and hard lines, the soft pink and the sharp black, it is a lot about contradictions.

    We have a small chat about color, to state that the three of us are all dressed in black. Every year there is a new black says Behnaz.

    Behnaz: Speaking of Miami, when I went to the Basil art fair last summer, it was so nice to see the new art, it was kind of optimistic in a way, the paintings, the installations, sculptures and the video installations, everything was in a way hopeful. Usually a lot of artwork is dark, the end of the world, judgment day, Armageddon feeling. I think around year 2000 or 2001, I was trendy to be a bit dark and heavy, kind of like, me and my issues..

    Alistair: Yeah, that’s kind of the opposite of what I am trying to do.
    I would absolutely not want to be in the end of negative.

    I ask Behnaz how it has been to work with art pieces instead of textiles.

    Behnaz: This is the first time for me curating, except from when I am just being anal in my flat hanging paintings. I usually prefer the constellations to be quite stressful, I mean, I have a lot hanging on my walls.
    It’s been really interesting listening to Alistair talk about his art and about his ideas of how to showcase the images. I am learning a lot. And it has given me and idea of how I want things to be placed.

    Will you be able to use this experience in your design?
    Behnaz:
    Definitely! I always get inspired by art, everything I do, either fashion or costumes; art is a big and important element.

    Alistair: It’s all about being creative. Someone asked me once, how is what you do different from being a graphic designer?
    And I answered, you know, in one way it is not. I mean, I use the same tools, the same language, I just happened to present it in another way.

    One of the most important things during the event is that the people should have a good time says Alistair, serving pink vodka and all. I am feeling very satisfied with our talk and I know they have a lot of work left, so lastly I ask Alistair, what do you think about Stockholm?

    Alistair: What I think about Stockholm? It is great and… very cold.

  • an interview with
    photography by DANIEL STJERNE

    An interview with Vibe Johansson

    Written by Michaela Widergren

    Vibe Johansson stands for unique and well tailored design, mixing modern, minimalistic influences with dramatic couture draping.
    She is a producer of style, not trends.

    During Copenhagen Fashion Week I had the chance to swing by her AW13 launch reception, held at (according to Vibe) one of the most unique stores in Denmark, &Pagne.
    At the party her creations were shown on manikins, as structured sculptures accompanied with a video projected on the wall, showing the all-in-black collection.

    Tell me about your aesthetics…
     
    My aesthetics are quite simplistic and minimal. I prefer to work with shapes and forms and not so much colors and prints. I don’t like too many clear references, and try to avoid retrospective influences; I am not nostalgic whatsoever.  I always search for new impressions and expressions. I have other creative outputs besides clothing, for example painting and writing, and the aesthetics goal is always the same.

    What is the most important and essential on your design?
     
    As cliché as it may sound, my goal design-wise is simply to create garments that are original and aesthetically beautiful at the same time.
     
    What about the constructing part, how do you start?
     
    It all begins with the construction for me. I experiment a lot with my fabrics, before deciding in which direction I want to take the new collection. It all depends on the shapes and drape of fabrics, and I start the design process only later.
    Usually I start out with a large square piece of fabric, and modify and mould it on the mannequin for days, until I am happy with it. I have never outsourced the construction part of a single pattern.
     
    How is the climate for avant-garde fashion in Copenhagen?
     
    The climate for avant-garde designers in Copenhagen is ok; There is a good selection of very interesting smaller labels, and they do get some exposure during the fashion weeks here, but overall Copenhagen as a fashion city is quite commercial and people are focused on latest trends more than personalizing their looks. Therefore lots of smaller labels are more focused on foreign markets, as I am myself, with Asia being my biggest market. Also I wish that the fashion scene in Copenhagen could merge more with the music and art-scene as for example in Berlin and London, where there seems to be a more creative environment overall. Don’t get me wrong, musicians do work closely with designers here as well, but it always seems to be with a commercial focus, too much image building and product placement for my taste, instead of collaborating towards a common aesthetics. 
     
    How do you want people to feel while wearing your garments?
     
    I would love for people to feel comfortable and special; to give them a feeling of expressing themselves without “playing dress up”. I want to create clothes that are worn, and not left hanging in the closet because they demand too much of people.

    Please tell me about a regular day in your life…
     
    My daily life has changed dramatically after having my baby girl. Everything revolves around her at the moment, but I have a supportive husband and family, and try to find time to work as well, mostly during the evenings after I put her to sleep. Ask me again in a year.

    Since you recently became a mother, have the new emotions and experiences changed your design in any way?

    Becoming a mother is a life changing experience – and I did expect it to have an effect on my work process; as it turns out, I have become more efficient - as a baby takes a lot of work! Before she came along I spent a lot of time inside my head, contemplating every small decision for a long time. Now I find myself moving over aesthetic obstacles in a more relaxed way instead of over-thinking every detail. This has proven to be a welcome change and the feedback for the new collection has been the best ever. 

    Do you have any role models within fashion?
     
    I admire people who have succeeded in creative industries on their own and without compromise. It can be very tough and takes years of hard work and patience before people start to recognize your work, and to actually make a living. Contrary to some beliefs, fashion is not always a glamorous industry. I recently read an interview with Rick Owens, where he stated that his company is a labor of love, that wouldn’t be of any interest to investors set out to make money. I have realized this myself over the past few years, being involved with an investor myself from 2009-2010. It ended badly as they were interested only in a quick return of investment and tried to make me compromise my creative long term vision. I was suspended from the label for a short time, but bought back the rights to my name in 2011, which was a huge relief. Since then I have been very determined to make it without the help of banks and investors.
    Creating a company I can be proud of in the future is my main goal, and to do that I need to protect the creative core values.
    Something very interesting is happening at the moment for other creative industries, where artists, musicians and creative entrepreneurs are using alternative funding methods for their projects, like Kickstarter and Indiegogo, leaving them 100%  independent and in charge of their products. I would love to see this rub off on the fashion industry as well. The most beautiful things are created when people work with a passion instead of working to make a living.
     
    What kind of clothes would we find in your closet? Which are your favorite ready to wear brands/designers?
     
    I never wear color. It has not been a conscious choice it just happened that way over time. I am more comfortable in black. I never choose items based solely on the brand name. Fabric, quality and fit are more important, but I generally love everything from designers such as Haider Ackermann, Limi Feu and Barbara I Gongini. And I am the first to check out the new collections from large fashion houses like Lanvin, Comme des Garçons and Balenciaga as soon as they are online.
     
    Is there any type of garment that you would never wear? If yes, what and why?
     
    I feel incredibly uncomfortable in too girly clothes and would never be caught dead in bohemian! 

    Can you tell us about the future? What is next for Vibe Johansson?
     
    The future looks very exciting at the moment; I have recently been selected by the EU Gateway Business Mission Japan, to participate in an exhibition and runway show in Tokyo in March. I am expecting it to be an awesome trip! Things are generally looking very good in Asia, and I feel like that is a market I need to explore even further; which means a lot of traveling plans for the coming year. Also, I am currently looking for a new location for my workshop and showroom in Copenhagen, and planning a restructuring of the company, giving me even more time to focus on what is important – creative growth. In general I feel very optimistic.

  • Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    TITANIA

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    An interview with Ray Caesar

    Written by Michaela Widergren

    I had some questions for the extraordinary artist, human being and dog named Ray Caesar to answer. After he did, I couldn’t help but to become even more fascinated by his work and his story.
    Some people are just meant for greatness.

    Ray, please describe yourself, who are you?
    I am a very simple quiet person who smiles a lot and I suppose I am very polite as if I had stepped out of a Jane Austin novel. I tend not to have any beliefs or dis-beliefs but live in a perpetual state of wonder and I often wonder why other humans have to make others believe in their own beliefs rather than taking joy in that we are so varied. I have my share of problems but I am also blessed with an odd sense of humor that helps me keep them in perspective.

    What happens on a regular day in your life?
    It begins with my wife singing as she washes her hair and my dog barking at god knows what and me sitting bolt upright in bed in a hair net and eye mask going “Wassatt!?”… Breakfast is anything with brutal amounts of fiber. A feeble attempt at exercise and a two-hour walk I call “my constitutional” that ends me up at Starbucks with a Grande Americano as I sketch in my moleskin book. Then home and work, work, work…
    We cook and we eat. I work some more. I relax for half an hour and read or watch a Jane Austin movie, talk a bit, play with the dog, bed time with a thimble of Brandy… Then I dream a lot and then I wake up in a bolt as some dog is barking and some pretty girl is singing. Life is good.

    In your biography you describe yourself as a dog, how come? Why a dog?
    I was born in 1958 which was the year of the dog, I was the youngest of four in a very volatile family in South London that would have reminded you of a pack of wolves. As a child I was known to run out in traffic so they put me on a leash. I used to bring stray dogs home and make them a cup of sweet tea and give them a biscuit as I thought everyone liked a nice cup of tea.
    I met my wife when I was fifteen while I was working as a busboy in a hotel bar. When she first saw me she laughed and said I looked like a scruffy dog… she told me how much she loved dogs. I took it as a compliment as a few weeks later she told me she was going to marry me and I didn’t think twice… A few treats and a promise of a walk and a warm bed and I am along for the ride.

    Are you an animal lover?
    Absolutely! I love all animals, even “human beings” I suppose…
    Although they can be a bit challenging if you try to domesticate them and they are particularly hard to house train, a treat goes a long way with them but you have to count your fingers afterward. I have a fourteen year old coyote called Bonnie who was found starving in the wild many years ago and he is very sweet. I think it is our duty on this planet to make sure we do not encroach any further into the habitats of other species and by study and empathy to create a world in which we can coexist with all other species.
    I have this odd feeling that all life is somehow connected through a kind of morphic field… I think that each creature on Earth is absolutely astounding and marvelous and how lucky we are to be part of this unique garden we call Earth.

    Who are the people in your images? What is the story? Would you call your art a form of storytelling?
    I think if you put all my work I have done since childhood in one room you would see one long story of my life. I am not just reliving the past… I am also writing my own future in pictures. I am expressing the emotions and feelings that I don’t have words for. The figures in my work are a form of self portrait of not just myself but my memory and how I work with and change and manipulate that memory whether it be pleasurable or not. To make all memory, good or bad a treasure! Make it something I can live with.
    I worked 17 years in a children’s hospital and that place still haunts my dreams and the people and children in my pictures are a reflection of their souls and presence I still feel as part of the fabric of who I am. The archetype of the divine child… that little ancestor in each one of use that learned to walk and talk and survive is the main character in my story. Its the hunter that hunts back their innocence and uses that to build their soul into a loving and kind and empathetic creature. We all have this in us and the child of who we were is a symbol of growth, a spiritual growth! That upholds the adult we are on the shoulders of the child of who we were.

    How do you work with symbolism? (if you do…)
    I do but it tends to be a personal form of symbolism that can some times only mean something to me. I do work very much with common Jungian archetypes and often use symbol and metaphor and narrative from the history of art and mythology. Sometimes there are subtle symbols that are from previous forms of communication like how a fan is held in hand or whether a finger is pointed to the spleen ( historically a sign of a melancholy person ).
    Most often though the symbols I use are the ones that appear from my own dreams and subconscious such as the telephone or the clock. Although I use these symbols I don’t spend time thinking about them as I create… I don’t plan and design the use of them but they just seem to appear because subconsciously I know about them and most often the symbols mean something to me personally.
    When I put a blood red rose with thorns in a piece, it is a direct memory of my Mother… Her nature is usually in that piece and I can’t think of a rose with thorns without thinking of her. We all have a language of symbols that mean something to us personally and art is the perfect place to communicate that hidden language we all carry deep inside.

    How does it affect your artistry, working with a computer instead of a canvas?
    I never really think about it as I have used both and they are just a method. I just use whatever tools are at hand to make what I see in my head a reality. The main tool I work with is my mind and memory and my subconscious world. The pencil, brush or computer is just a method of getting the work out of my head and onto a surface. What I love about working in a 3 dimensional virtual environment is that I can hide objects within other objects and hide lockets with pictures of those I have lost in my family, and I can put them inside the drawers of a cabinet beside the bed of a figure.
    No one can see that picture in the locket in the drawer but I know it’s there and that’s important to me. I can cover my virtual models with my skin or the skin of my wife and that’s fun and has meaning for me also. I am interested in waking up each morning and making what I love… What I want to see and in that I am trying to express some very deep emotions and feelings. I cant say that I am trying to make “art”… I am just spending the rest of my life doing what I want to do and doing it the way I want to do it.
    I don’t think I am creating “artistry” I think of it as “play”, as “fun” as an expression of my life and soul in images or a virtual environment. I try very hard not to think about computers or paint or pencils or art or galleries or selling work… I just think about playing and making a picture which is of something in my own mind.

    Do you have a favorite piece, if yeas, why?
    No, I absolutely refuse on a moral obligation to never have a favorite piece. They are all like a basket of puppies and I treasure the time I have given each one and treasure the gift that each piece has given me. I also find that over time they all seem to not be separate things to me as I see all my work in a kind of entirety. Its as if my favorite thing about the work is the body of it. I can see my work grow and change and I love that. I can see a rhythm in my work that feels like a rhythm inside the core of who I am and I like that too. I can see my pain and the difficulty in some pieces and the joy and happiness in others.
    I don’t think this is just true for artists, when we all look back on our lives we might have a favorite day but it wouldn’t be able to be that day without all the other days. It’s the rhythms in our lives that becomes important… Both the good and the not so good in our lives make up a feeling that’s hard to describe. Making a picture, or music, or a family, or a happy life for a cat or dog or just living a creative life or a healing life in some way is important. The way we live is an expression of who we are and its never to late to express yourself.

    And lastly, who is your client? Tell us about the buyer of your work…
    I have no idea… sometimes I hear of well known or famous people buying the work and that’s fun but I think all kinds of people seem to respond to my work in a positive way and some in a negative way.
    For many years I couldn’t see people buying my work so I kept it in a closet. I used to paint then but also did a great deal of digital work as I have been using computers for over 30 years. I get a lot of mail and sometimes the people who purchase it mail me and want to hear about the work. One man told me he bought a piece for his collection and when people came over “everyone commented on the work”. Either good or bad but they never walked past it without comment and he loved that as it stimulated talk and conversation.
    I put a lot of emotional baggage in my work and I sort of love the idea that all my problems and emotional turmoil are all packed up in pictures and people buy that package. I put a lot of love and care and tenderness and happiness in the work too so I like that those things go along for the ride also.

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    TURNING POINT

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    LA CHASSERESSE ROUGE

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    MEATRON STUDY 1 ABOVE

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    MEATRON STUDY 2 BELOW

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    LA CHASSERESSE JANUES

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    LA CHAMBRE

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    FADING AWAY

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    CROWN OF FLIES

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    FRENCH KISS

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    COMPANION STUDY

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    MEASURING THE WORLD

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    WALLFLOWERS

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

    Ray Caesar/Gallery House

    LOVE LETTERS

    RAY CAESAR/GALLERY HOUSE

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