• photograpy Dave Benett courtesy of V&A

    V&A Presents Major Exhibition Celebrating Naomi Campbell’s Iconic Career

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    The V&A in South Kensington is currently hosting a groundbreaking exhibition, NAOMI, celebrating the extraordinary 40-year career of British supermodel and cultural icon Naomi Campbell. Running until April 6, 2025, the exhibition offers an in-depth exploration of Campbell’s trailblazing journey, from her early days as a 15-year-old discovered in Covent Garden, to becoming one of the most influential figures in the fashion industry today.

    Naomi Campbell's rise to global fame is historic. In 1988, at just 18 years old, she became the first Black model to appear on the cover of Paris Vogue, an achievement that marked a pivotal moment in fashion history. Over the past four decades, Campbell has continued to break barriers, gracing the runways of prestigious designers and appearing in countless iconic campaigns and editorial spreads. Her unparalleled presence on the catwalk and her ability to connect with designers, photographers, and creatives have ensured her place as a timeless figure in the fashion world.

    The exhibition features more than 100 looks from Campbell’s career, showcasing her iconic wardrobe that spans both haute couture and ready-to-wear designs. Visitors will encounter exquisite pieces from celebrated designers such as Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianni and Donatella Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more. The garments will be complemented by striking fashion photography from renowned photographers like Nick Knight, Steven Meisel, and Tim Walker, curated by Edward Enninful OBE. These images, displayed as part of a dynamic installation, capture Campbell’s ability to transform any fashion shoot into a moment of iconic artistry.

    In addition to the fashion and photography, NAOMI highlights Campbell’s immense influence beyond the catwalk. The exhibition delves into her cultural leadership and activism, spotlighting her efforts to challenge systemic inequalities in fashion. She has long been a champion of diversity, having advocated for greater representation for Black models since the early years of her career. Along with her fellow models Iman and Bethann Hardison, Campbell founded The Diversity Coalition in 2013 to promote diversity and inclusion in the industry. She has also been a vocal advocate for equity in fashion, famously fronting the 2007 ‘black issue’ of Vogue Italia and supporting causes related to social justice, including her mentorship from Nelson Mandela, who inspired her to use her platform for positive change.

    A key feature of the exhibition is its collaboration with Naomi Campbell herself, offering an intimate perspective on her career through her personal voice. Visitors will also have the chance to explore NAOMI, a newly published book from V&A Publishing, which provides unique insights into Campbell’s career and iconic looks. The book features Campbell’s reflections on pivotal moments in her life and her fashion evolution, offering a deeper understanding of the woman behind the world-famous supermodel.

    In addition to the fashion and photography, the exhibition also celebrates Campbell’s ongoing support for emerging creatives. Her global initiative, EMERGE, founded in 2022, offers a platform for young talents in fashion, while her involvement in events like Arise Fashion Week continues to promote and nurture new voices in the creative world.

    NAOMI is more than just a fashion exhibition; it is a celebration of a woman who has not only shaped the fashion industry but has also used her success to fight for equity and inspire generations of artists and activists. It’s a must-see for anyone interested in fashion, cultural history, and the power of one individual’s impact on the world.

    For more details, visit vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/naomi. The exhibition runs until April 6, 2025. 

  • Pélagie Gbaguidi, Chaîne humaine, 2022.

    Hermès Presents "Antre" - Joël Riff's Seventh Exhibition as Curator at La Verrière

    Written by Art Editor

    “Antre” – the French word for a lair or a den – Joël Riff’s seventh exhibition as curator of La Verrière, explores the depths from which we emerge. A metaphor for the studio, and the very antithesis of any glass roof, this obscure zone is now brought into the light by the exhibition of still-vibrant fragments, removed from their source. In this way, the project examines the tension between the violence and legitimacy of ‘the exhibition’ in the strict sense of the term, showcasing that which is often discarded. The expedition revolves around Pélagie Gbaguidi’s work, which is characterised by encounters the artist makes around the world while embracing sedentary stints at a central site in her practice, twelve kilometres south of the Brussels address of the Fondation d’entreprise Hermès.

    Going against the grain of extractivism, the aim is to find a balance between what we extract and what we return, encouraging an awareness of how we treat what we take. The artist navigates through brutal realities as a means to transform materials. A mediator of memories, she bears witness and passes them on.

    While her work is receiving increasing international recognition, Pélagie Gbaguidi has rarely exhibited in Belgium. This is her first major solo show in Brussels. The exhibition focuses on her paintings and drawings, reviving the impact of her powerful pictorial work. At La Verrière, her works are surrounded by furniture made by the Brussels collective Aygo, the words of French author Sophie Marie Larrouy (FR, b.1984), sculptures by Marianne Berenhaut (BE, b.1934) and embroideries by Hessie (JA, 1933-2017).

    The presence of the latter, who was the subject of a solo exhibition at La Verrière in 2016 when Pélagie Gbaguidi first met her, is also a way of raising public awareness of the 25th anniversary of the exhibition space – inaugurated in 2000 – and highlights its enduring importance.

    Pélagie Gbaguidi, The Witness, 2021.
  • photography Patrick Demarchelier Trunk Archive / Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum
    text Natalia Muntean
    Interview with Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimovic

    Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa: A Celebration of Sculptural Fashion

    Written by Natalia Muntean by Nicole Miller

    From October 10, 2024, to March 16, 2025, Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum in Stockholm is hosting Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa, an exhibition showcasing the iconic creations of one of fashion’s most legendary figures. Known for his uncompromising approach and ability to blend fashion with sculpture, Azzedine Alaïa carved out a unique space in the world of haute couture, creating designs that transcend trends and timelines.

    From his early days as a young Tunisian sculptor to his rise as a celebrated couturier in Paris, Alaïa’s journey was marked by an extraordinary dedication to his craft, producing collections that continue to inspire designers and fashion lovers alike. This exhibition serves as both a tribute to Alaïa’s enduring legacy and an exploration of the art of couture, where fabric meets form in perfect harmony.

    We had the pleasure of speaking with Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimović, CEO of Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, about the significance of this exhibition and how it reflects the visionary talent of a designer who revolutionised the fashion industry with his bold, sculptural silhouettes and timeless designs.

    Natalia Muntean: How did the idea to bring Azzedine Alaïa’s work to the Nordics for the first time come about, and what inspired this collaboration with the Azzedine Alaïa Foundation?
    Dragana Kusoffsky Maksimović:     The idea to exhibit Azzedine Alaïa's work to the Nordics for the first time originated from a desire to showcase his iconic influence and craftsmanship to new audiences. I have long admired Azzedine Alaïa’s work and design, and, along with others, consider him one of the most influential fashion designers of all time. The craftsmanship, the strong silhouettes, and the way women wearing his clothes are empowered, not objectified, has always inspired me.

    The collaboration with the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa was inspired by a shared vision to highlight the artistry and timeless nature of his couture creations, as well as to celebrate his lasting legacy in the fashion world. I am so excited to open the doors and welcome our visitors to this truly extraordinary exhibition.

    NM: Can you tell us about the process of selecting the haute couture garments for the exhibition? What criteria were used to handpick these pieces?
    DKM: Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum has worked closely with the curator and fashion historian Olivier Saillard from the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa, which preserves Alaïas archives and legacy.

    We are showcasing forty iconic pieces spanning his four-decade career as a designer, from one of his earliest designs in the 80s to pieces from his very last runway show in 2017, just a few months before he suddenly passed away. In the exhibition “Master of Couture – Azzedine Alaïa,” visitors will step into the world of haute couture and get to know the fashion genius Azzedine Alaïa through his tailoring artistry. In subtly crafted creations, Alaïa highlights the duality of clothing as both couture and sculpture.

    In bringing this exhibition to the Nordics, we aimed to share Alaïa’s body of work and his iconic sculptural design.

    NM: Azzedine Alaïa was known for his unique combination of fashion and sculpture. How does the exhibition design at Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum enhance the sculptural quality of his creations?
    DKM: The exhibition design will be intentionally minimalist, allowing the couture pieces to take centre stage. Each elegant couture form is showcased on specially crafted mannequins by Alaïa himself. The shape and measurements of the mannequins were inspired by the figures of his favourite models, including Naomi Campbell, who was a very close friend and muse. Visitors will have the opportunity to explore the subtle and distinctive details up close in his iconic designs and experience the sculptural tailoring that made Alaïa a pioneer in the fashion world. 

    NM: What challenges did the museum face in curating this exhibition, especially considering the delicate nature of haute couture garments?
    DKM: The whole process and collaboration with the team at Foundation Azzedine Alaïa and us has been inspirational and very creative. They have been very supportive of our ideas. Also, the trust and respect we have in our curator Olivier Saillard’s experience and knowledge have been crucial for this exhibition and selection of garments. The dresses have been prepared by highly skilled conservators at the Foundation Azzedine Alaïa and are carefully dressed on specially made mannequins.

    NM: Alaïa’s designs have been worn by iconic figures like Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones, and Michelle Obama. How does this exhibition reflect the influence his creations had on both the fashion industry and pop culture?

    DKM: This exhibition reflects that influence by showcasing the transformative power of his couture, which blends impeccable craftsmanship with bold, sculptural silhouettes. Alaïa's ability to empower women through his designs has played a significant role in shaping modern fashion. As a curiosity, he also designed for the legendary Greta Garbo.

    Azzedine Alaïa's work transcended the traditional boundaries of fashion, blending art, sculpture, and couture to create designs that celebrated beauty and individuality.

    His unique creations and sculptural silhouettes celebrating the female body made him world-famous. Alaïa’s creations not only set new standards in haute couture, but also became synonymous with cultural moments, worn by women who shaped the worlds of culture, entertainment, politics, and fashion. His legacy, seen through this exhibit, illustrates how his work continues to inspire designers, celebrities, and fashion lovers worldwide. 

    NM: Alaïa famously had no formal fashion education, yet he became one of the most celebrated couturiers. How does this exhibition celebrate his unconventional path to success?
    DKM: Azzedine Alaïa was an autodidact, mastering the art of design without formal fashion education. His unique approach to fashion design was deeply influenced by his background in sculpture. Born in Tunisia in 1934, he studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Tunis, where he honed his sculptural skills. This artistic background profoundly shaped his approach as a couturier. Unlike many designers who begin with sketches, Alaïa worked directly with fabric on the body, treating it as a sculptor would clay. His artistic vision and ambition would eventually drive him to Paris in 1956 to work in French haute couture, an industry then still dominated by Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga. With his great talent, Alaïa acquired the necessary professional skills on his own and cultivated a loyal following of clients.

    By showcasing his masterpieces in the exhibition at Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, we want to honour Alaïa's extraordinary journey to the pinnacle of the fashion industry. His exceptional artistic vision and relentless dedication propelled him from humble beginnings in Tunisia to the world of Parisian haute couture. His unwavering commitment to his client, unmatched talent and warm personality earned him friends and admirers across the globe.

    photography John Scarisbrick / Sven Harrys-Konstmuseum
    photography John Scarisbrick / Sven Harrys Konstmuseum

    photography Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum

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