• Khari Turner in Stockholm. Image courtesy of CFHILL and Ross-Sutton Gallery

    As Below and Above

    Written by Art Editor

    Khari Turner arrived in Stockholm straight from a celebrated international debut exhibition at the Venice Biennale to spend a one-month artist residency in the city. Much like Venice, Stockholm has a unique connection to water as it is positioned on fourteen islands linked by fifty-seven bridges. Art editor Lina Aastrup met him in his temporary studio to talk about the upcoming exhibition As Below and Above.

    Lina Aastrup: The focus on water, is that a recurring theme for your practice?

    Khari Turner: Yes, I use ocean or sea water and mix it with black ink. So, the ink follows the water as it flows until the water evaporates leaving behind this very unique texture that is the base for all my paintings, so materially it is a big part of my process. The topic isn’t always about water though, it can also be about plants for example, finding yourself amongst the trees and feeling small in a vast landscape. However, water feeds the plant so basically you could say I am interested in whatever water touches, which is a lot. Sand, wood, plants, humans.

    LA: Water as a source of life maybe? This makes me think about Astrida Neimanis’ theory of hydrofeminism in which she states that we are all bodies of water and as such we are connected through the fluids we share. In Bodies of Water (2017) she wrote this which I think is so beautiful:

    For us humans, the flow and flush of waters sustain our own bodies, but also connect them to other bodies, to other worlds beyond our human selves. Indeed, bodies of water undo the idea that bodies are necessarily or only human. The bodies from which we siphon and into which we pour ourselves are certainly other human bodies (a kissable lover, a blood transfused stranger, a nursing infant), but they are just as likely a sea, a cistern, an underground reservoir of once-was-rain.” Astrida Neimanis, Bodies of Water, 2017.

    KT: That is literally what I am working with. Thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how our bodies are largely made up of water and also how water travels. How it moves to locations, what is in it, and what the history of that water is.

    LA: Speaking of historical perspectives on water, I was reading about “voyage iron” which was used as a currency in the transatlantic slave trade, and it was largely produced in the north of Sweden in the 17th and 18th Centuries and shipped by boat to West Africa. Literally travelling the waters outside Stockholm. For many Swedes, who often like to think that Sweden was not involved in the slave trade, the human cost and political impact of this trade is not so commonly known.

    KT: I think everything can become a political conversation in one way or another. For a long time, I tried to fight that in the artwork. There was a time when I thought I would go really political in my work, but then I realised that some people are not ready to have that conversation. And the people who are already having it are making work mostly regurgitating what they already understood. So, I decided I would not do anything political, but anytime I try to present something not political, people would read this or the other into it, so politics is still something I need to relate to. As it turned out, water became a good conduit of that as there is so much history, there is so much potential in terms of talking about, for example, what the transatlantic slave trade means, what water I’m using, where I’m getting it from. This way I can paint freely and think about how the body of water is now reacting to the space that it is in, allowing us to have a conversation about that means for the painting. And I say “us” as in me and the water because I think of it as its own thing. I can only ever manipulate it so much, because however it dries, or looks, is about what the water decides in the end.

    LA: So, you use sea water taken at the different sites of production in your paintings?

    KT: There is water from Sweden in all of the works I created for As Below and Above. For me it is a way to think about place, and my personal space in it. This show is specifically about vulnerability and my imagination of what it feels like to be an artist, to be me, at this very moment. Coming from the Venice Biennale I was inspired to push myself to be more vulnerable. To go beyond my comfort zone and tell a better, more interesting story about where I come from. Like asking: What is masculinity, how do I break the mold of that? The show in Venice, Blue Moon, was an opportunity to honour some of the femme presenting bodies in my life. This new show is softer around the edges, more emotional – not in a sad way, but deeper.

    The regular Odalisque reader will recognize Turner from the “Renaissance Issue” (s/s 2021) where we published a conversation between him and Destinee Ross-Sutton, curator and founder of Ross-Sutton Gallery in New York. As Below and Above marks her second collaboration with CFHILL, the first being the internationally acclaimed exhibition Black Voices/ Black Microcosm in 2020, right at the beginning of the pandemic and coinciding with the massive BLM protests following the murder of George Floyd in Minneapolis on May 25, 2020.


    As Below and Above by Khari Turner will be on view at CFHILL in the Main Gallery from June 3 to July 8, 2022.


    Khari Turner (b. 1991, Milwaukee, US) received his MFA from Columbia University in 2021. Other exhibitions by Turner currently on view: “Mirroring Reflection”, solo exhibition at Museum of Wisconsin Art (MOWA) and “Blue Moon” at Palazzo Bembo as part of the Venice Biennale 2022. Represented by Ross-Sutton Gallery in New York. Lives and works in Harlem, New York.

     
     
      
      

    Khari Turner at the studio in Stockholm. Image courtesy of CFHILL and Ross-Sutton Gallery.

    Khari Turner at the studio in Stockholm. Image courtesy of CFHILL and Ross-Sutton Gallery.
    Khari Turner's temporary studio in Stockholm. Image courtesy of CFHILL and Ross-Sutton Gallery.
  • Yinka Shonibare, “Wind Sculpture in Bronze I”, 2022.

    An Art World Superstar in Stockholm

    Written by Art Editor

    Wind Sculpture in Bronze I” is a dynamic, large-scale work reminding me of a silk scarf caught by the wind. Making a two meter tall bronze sculpture seem light as air is an impressive feat, but knowing Yinka Shonibare CBE is one of the most celebrated artists of our time this comes as no surprise. The abstracted leaf patterns show this is not just any old fabric, but a reference to Dutch wax batik fabrics – a signature motif of Shonibare’s art with a complex colonial history.

    ”The mixed origins of the fabric – factory-made by the Dutch, based on Indonesian batiks sold to Britain’s West African colonies, embraced there and considered in the world’s eyes as authentic African products, make a perfect vehicle to inspire conversations about our multi-layered identities and global interdependence.” - Yinka Shonibare CBE.

    This is however not the first time Shonibare blesses the Stockholm art scene with his presence, he was a resident artist here at Iaspis in 2004. During this very productive time he created the sculpture “Vasa Ship” (2004) for Moderna Museet, a gigantic ship in a bottle where the sails were replaced with Dutch wax batik fabric, symbolising movement and migration, recurring themes in his artistic practice. “I was so fascinated that in Sweden there is this monumental failure that is celebrated in this way” - Shonibare made everyone laugh at the press viewing when commenting on the work and the Vasa Museum in Stockholm. Another work from the same period is the brilliant video work “Un Ballo in Maschera” (2004) based on the killing of king Gustav III and co-produced by SVT and Moderna Museet which was actually Shonibare's first in this medium. 

    Wind Sculpture in Bronze I” will be installed in the Princess Estelle Sculpture Park at Royal Djurgården in Stockholm and will be unveiled to the public on June 2, 2022.

    Yinka Shonibare, “Un Ballo in Maschera”, 2004. Co-produced by SVT Fiktion in collaboration with Moderna Museet.
    Yinka Shonibare, “Vasa in a Bottle”, 2004. Photo by Moderna Museet/Prallan Allston.
    Yinka Shonibare fabrics. Photo by Moderna Museet/Åsa Lundén.
    Yinka Shonibare, 2014. Photo by Marcus Leith RA.
  • Interview with IDUN Minerals

    Written by Yasmine M

    IDUN Minerals has been on the market for 11 years and have been focusing on good and carefully selected ingredients since day 1. My first encounter with the Swedish brand, was 7-8 years ago when I tried IDUN’s mineral powder foundation, thanks to a family member. A product, I never had for myself, since friends were always asking to use it – we all loved it.

    IDUN Minerals has been a favorite for those lucky enough to have found it, but a unicorn for others that haven’t heard of it before. This year, the brand has transformed its packaging and design, for not only an even more sustainable approach but, an international and design rebranding – which they call IDUN 2.0.

    For this reason, I wanted to learn more about the new makeover but mostly their thoughts on the beauty industry today. Honored, I got to talk with their CEO, Caroline Thunstedt.


    Hello Caroline! Lovely to have a moment to ask you a few questions! Talk me through the latest makeovers by IDUN Minerals A couple of years ago we decided to set the long-term goal of having a circular business model by the year 2030 and this meant we had to start investigating how to upgrade and redefine the brand. We started evaluating our packaging and packaging materials. We realized that there was a lot to be done in terms of both quality and environmental improvements.

    What was the first thing you did to evaluate the packaging?
    The first thing we did was to move packaging production from Asia to Europe, unnecessarily long transportation was the first problem we identified that we needed to solve. Most of the world's packaging for makeup is made in Asia and transported a long way to Europe. We have therefore chosen to move all packaging production that was previously done in Asia to manufacturers in Europe, where the ingredients are mixed and filled. In this way, we were able to ensure that transportation emissions decreased, but at the same time we also took the opportunity to improve the quality of the packaging and reduce the amount of material used.

    After a visit to FTI, the plastic recycling plant in Motala, Sweden, we also realized the importance of the packaging being made of bright plastic and mono / separable material. Otherwise, it cannot be recycled. Mirrors have been removed and materials have been replaced to try to make a product as sustainable as possible. For example, our packages for blush and bronzers are nowadays made of paper (renewable raw material), completely separable, and without a mirror (to ensure recyclability). The goal is a circular business model by the year 2030.

    What is clean beauty to you? And do you think the term clean beauty has changed throughout the years?
    Our tagline has been “Simply pure & clean” since we launched in 2011. Back then we only focused on the ingredients and avoiding unnecessary ingredients. For example, we have always avoided talc, bismuth, perfume, and cyclic silicones in our products. Today, we call ourselves a conscious beauty brand because there is so much more than clean. Today we talk about ingredients, manufacturing processes, packaging production, transportation, packaging material, CSR responsibilities, and much more. Consciousness is the new clean for us.

    What does IDUN take inspiration from?
    For us, education and information are key. We constantly strive to learn new things to improve ourselves. One example is seeking inspiration from other industries, like the fashion industry for example where some brands have been very inspirational in disclosing manufacturing plants to secure full transparency against consumers. We are also inspired by strong female voices who aren’t afraid to be who they are. The Swedish DJ duo Rebecca & Fiona is for example a big inspiration of ours, not only being extremely talented in music production but also two very inspirational entrepreneurs. We are actually so inspired by them so we have started a collaboration with them this summer, more info to come about that

    What’s your own favorite product from IDUN?
    If I can only pick one, and trust me that is hard, I guess I need to say the mineral powder foundation. I have a very uneven and red skin tone, so I use foundation every day and want to have a base that feels weightless and natural on the skin. The fact that it contains 100% highly purified minerals and lets the skin breath with natural finish & SPF15 makes it perfect for everyday use. I love it!

    What’s the product you feel everyone should have in their bathroom this summer?
    SPF, SPF, SPF – the single most important product to protect your skin and for a true “anti-age” effect.  This summer I will be using the brand-new products from IDUN Minerals; Solsken SPF50 which is a primer and sun protection product in one as well as our new tinted lip elixir with SPF15. The lip elixir is the perfect combination of glossy color and protection, I have longed for this product a long time and can’t wait to wear it all summer long.

    What’s your personal goal and hope? 
    My personal long-term goal is to change the beauty industry for real and to make an impact. Our struggle is changing the perception of what “luxury” beauty is. A lipstick with a higher price point is expected to feel heavy when you hold it in your hand. We have a new lipstick packaging which is 59% lighter compared to our previous one and not only that, it is also made of mono-material (meaning it can be recycled) and produced in Europe (which means less carbon emission thanks shorter transportation). But the big question is if the consumer is willing to pay for this new, lighter packing and accept it as the new luxury? This is where the importance of good and clear communication comes in.

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    How many ideas do you have just in your head right now, waiting to be created?
    I have so many ideas but as a brand we also need to listen to the consumer and her feedback, we create the products for her and the next step for us is really to gather all the feedback from making this big packaging shift to find clear path going forward.

    IDUN has always been in a class by itself, focusing on sustainability and clean beauty for the past 11 years. How do you as a CEO cope with a changing beauty industry, for example with social media changing how consumers purchase beauty products?
    Personally, I love social media and that it helps us stay connected with our customers. Together with my colleagues, I manage our messenger chat function and just love to see what kind of questions people ask and what they are interested in. This means that even if we are a global brand, we can stay close to the consumer, wherever they are located. 

    What’s the next step for the brand, to have IDUN minerals continue to flourish in a changing industry?
    We will continue changing our packaging during the coming year. To be honest, we will never be done, there is always improvement to be done since there constantly new techniques, innovations and new solutions available. We hope to continue to be agile and on the forefront in testing the new innovations. In Sweden, we are very good at sustainability and therefore our brand is much appreciated on other markets.

    Will you launch in any new markets this year?
    This year we are looking forward to increasing our presence on the US market as well as launching IDUN Minerals with the beauty destination Douglas in Germany.

    Get to know IDUN Minerals product range, on their website idunminerals.com

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