• creative direction, fashion, hair & makeup Matilde Aarskog Wold

    Entangled Rebirth: Elin Olsson on Embracing Imperfection and Redefining Fashion

    Written by Matilde Aarskog Wold by Nicole Miller

    Elin Olsson, a young designer from Beckmans College of Design, introduces her latest collection, Trasslig Återfödelse (Entangled Rebirth), where fragility meets resilience. Her designs, a blend of delicate threads and voluminous silhouettes, challenge conventional fashion norms by embracing imperfections as a source of strength. In this interview, we dive into her creative process, inspirations, and the artistry behind the collection we’ve styled and captured for this feature. Olsson’s work invites us to see fashion as both a craft and a reflection of life’s beautiful complexities.

    Matilde Aarskog Wold: “When and how did your interest in fashion and design first emerge?”
    Elin Olsson: I actually called my mother and asked. She said that as early as the age of two, I showed an interest in clothes and accessories by always being drawn to “bling bling” and trying on high heels that were way too big for me. My interest in sewing probably started around the age of 14 if I remember correctly. I bought second-hand clothes, cut them up, and then re-sewed them using my grandmother’s old Singer machine from the 1950s-60s. It wasn’t until high school that I truly realized fashion and design were what I wanted to pursue. I even asked my incredibly fashion-uninterested mother, “What is the profession called when you work in the fashion world?” After that, we traveled to Stockholm to attend open houses at various design schools, and that’s when I decided that one day, I would study at Beckmans. But it took me ten years before I actually started studying there. Like many others at the time, I wanted to explore the world first, and I also spent three years in preparatory studies before starting.

    MAW: Your latest collection, “Trasslig Återfödelse,” has such an evocative title. Can you tell us about the inspiration behind the collection and walk us through your process of developing it?
    EO:
    It actually started with thoughts about my mother—how she always saves the smallest things that others might throw away. She’s the type who keeps used wrapping paper and a pretty ribbon, for example. My mother sees value in small things, and as I’ve grown older, I’ve also come to appreciate that. I think I’ve inherited a certain tendency to collect—or as I prefer to call it, save! The phrase “it might come in handy” is something I’ve heard thousands of times growing up, and I’ve also adopted that mindset, in a well-organized chaos. In short, the inspiration for this collection came from my parents’ lifestyle.
    The process started with material experimentation, which was the focus of the entire course. I knew early on that I wanted to work with upcycling to breathe new life into everything I had collected over the years. I was particularly interested in denim and knitwear. I conducted numerous denim experiments and ultimately found the concept of “layer upon layer upon layer” intriguing. Regarding the knitwear pieces, I wanted to symbolize how human life has its ups and downs, just like the materials I’ve saved over the years. This time, those materials had their moment to shine. I wanted the finish to look “worn-in,” which is why the garments have subtly patinated color variations, as well as frayed denim pants and the upcycled lace top.

    MAW: The visuals from this collection feel deeply personal. How much of your own experiences and emotions influence your work?
    E0: “Trasslig Återfödelse” is deeply personal. In the material course, there was no strict framework for the concept, which allowed me to make it very personal. Later, there are courses with more structured briefs, or courses like “Collab,” where we collaborate with a company and need to step back from our own egos. It’s a very valuable and fun experience! But for my graduation project, I will make it personal again, to showcase who I am as a designer.

    MAW: You blend delicate, intricate elements with bold, voluminous shapes in your work. How do you approach balancing these contrasts, and what do they represent to you?
    EO:
    I think, like many others, I’ve trained my eye to see the bigger picture. I believe this happens unconsciously if you’re truly interested in design. The voluminous silhouettes come from my fascination with form. I find it intriguing when textiles extend beyond the body and take on a life of their own. My interest in textures comes from my desire to engage another sense in clothing—there’s so much that can be expressed through texture.

    MAW: Sustainability is such a big conversation in fashion right now. How does “Trasslig Återfödelse” tie into ideas of circular design or eco-consciousness?
    EO:
    The entire collection is about circular design and making use of what already exists. My chaotic but fairly well-organized collecting has resulted in this collection. Everything in the collection, except for the knitwear, consists of recycled materials.

    MAW: The fashion industry is rapidly evolving with new technologies and values. How do you see young designers like yourself reshaping the future of fashion?
    EO: I see it as an incredible opportunity but also a responsibility. I believe in us new designers, in our commitment to sustainability—both environmental and social. The industry has already been breaking traditional norms for a while, creating more inclusive expressions, and above all, advocating for sustainability. I strongly believe that we, as new designers, must continue working towards this. 3D design, AI, and digital platforms allow us to reduce waste and reach a global audience, even as small-scale designers. At the same time, I think it’s important not to focus on innovation for the sake of innovation but to uphold the values we want to see in the industry: respect for people, animals, and the environment. I believe the future requires a deeper impact than just following trends. I truly hope and believe that new designers are in a unique position to drive this change forward by combining creativity with a strong awareness of what is happening in the world and what the world truly needs.

    MAW: How do you keep your design vision fresh and innovative, especially with so many influences and trends in the industry?
    EO:
    My inspiration usually comes from art or architecture, surprisingly not from clothing. I feel much more inspired by art and architecture because they offer new perspectives to create from—whereas with fashion, what I see has already been done, so it feels like a waste of time. I’m also very interested in writing, which helps me develop concepts. Of course, social media influences me unconsciously, but I consciously try to avoid looking at fashion too much when working on a project to stay original.

    MAW: Young designers often face unique challenges breaking into the industry. What have been some of the biggest obstacles you’ve encountered so far?
    EO:
    Ever since day one, I’ve been told that “everything has already been done.” When I hear that, I sometimes wonder if I’ve chosen the right industry. This has even made me avoid fashion-focused media, which has been one of my biggest challenges. Another challenge, which may just be a feeling or a personal fear, is the assumption that all fashion design students are aiming for the stars. I think it’s important to acknowledge that some just want a job they enjoy—just like graduates from any other field.

    MAW: As a young designer, how do you balance your personal life with the demands of the fashion world? What does a typical day look like for you?
    EO:
    Right now, there is absolutely no balance. I’m studying, and that’s all I do, especially this spring as I prepare for graduation. I grew up in Katrineholm, and this spring, I’ve basically banned visits from family and friends outside of Stockholm, haha. I don’t want anything to distract me from my graduation project. I’m not dating either—I simply don’t have time. This might sound incredibly selfish to others, but I haven’t spent six years studying just to not give my all for my final collection. I know this is only temporary, so I’m okay with it.

    MAW: What are your goals for the future, both for your own work and for the evolution of the fashion industry as a whole?
    EO:
    My dream is to design highly conceptual clothing—I love telling stories and sparking conversations through my work. In terms of the fashion industry, I want to completely eliminate fast fashion and continue working with upcycling.

    MAW: Lastly, what advice would you give to aspiring young designers dreaming of making their mark in fashion?
    EO:
    The first thing that comes to mind is to study process work. I spent a year at Stenebyskolan studying Form & Design with fantastic teachers who I’m still in touch with today. That year of process work has helped me tremendously. My final advice is to be brave. Believe that you can—because you probably can. It sounds cliché, but courage and curiosity have taken me toward my goals.

    clothes Elin Olsson/Beckmans College of Design

    shoes Lundhags

    clothes Elin Olsson/Beckmans College of Design

    shoes Kero

    creative direction, fashion, hair & makeup Matilde Aarskog Wold
    model Bersela / FYE Management
    assistant Ida Martin

    .

    clothes Elin Olsson/Beckmans College of Design
    shoes Sara Winter PR
    special thanks to BaByliss

  • Costume Photography 2024
    © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.

    Leigh Bowery! Tate Modern Unveils a Bold Tribute to the Iconic Performer

    Written by Maya Avram by Nicole Miller

    Earlier this week, swarms of press flooded Tate Modern’s third floor, excitedly assembled for the preview of the museum’s latest exhibition, Leigh Bowery! Chronicling the late performer’s artistic practice in 80s and 90s London, it brings to the fore Bowery’s undeniable influence on pop culture as we know it today. “As an artist, he embodies much of what Tate Modern exists for, really; performance, reinvention, experimentation — in short, reimagining ways of seeing the world,” said Karin Hindsbo, Director of Tate Modern, as we embarked on a tour of the curated space.

    Closely entwined with London’s underground scene, Bowery has famously harnessed hedonism and subversion to challenge the banal. A performer, dancer, model, TV personality, fashion designer and musician, his provocative performance art was designed as a form of activism, encouraging people to push boundaries and encourage their reflection on life.

    The show space’s layout emulates Bowery’s chronological journey into the public eye, with each room symbolising a different part of the making of his persona. And so, the first room marks “the home”, the safe place where he (and his friends) assumed their character. It features some of his first-ever fashion designs, including gimp-inspired head masks, and other iconic motifs such as his synonymous polka-dot print.

    Then you step into “the club,” the gritty setting where his eccentric appearance became an aesthetic that urged onlookers to question the why and how they live. Set against the backdrop of Thatcher’s England, Bowery’s rebellion against conformity peaked with the opening of his club Taboo in 1985. The exhibition displays more than 20 of the intricate costumes he designed and hand-crafted, many with collaborator Nicola Rainbird and corsetier Mr Pearl.

    Bowery’s close friendship with renowned artist Lucian Freud marked a turning point in the former’s relationship with the contemporary art world. Now a subject in his own right, Bowery was depicted by Freud in the nude, bare of all embellishments to offer a fresh view of this flamboyant performer. This was a natural evolution of Bowery’s use of his body as raw material, notably stating that “flesh is the most fabulous fabric.”

    The exhibition culminates with Bowery’s foray into music with his band Minty. Uniting his love of performance, shock value and humour, it enabled him to push the limits of the human form while reimagining ideas around gender and drag culture. Bowery’s final performance at London’s Freedom Café in November 1994 was attended by long-term collaborator Lucian Freuda and a young Alexander McQueen, revealing how far-reaching his influence extended in the worlds of art and fashion.

    “I cannot think of a better way to launch our 25th anniversary programme than with a celebration of Leigh Bowery,” concluded Hindsbo. We couldn’t agree more.

    Leigh Bowery! Will run from 27 February to 31 August 2025, at Tate Modern, Bankside, London.

    Dick Jewell Still from What's Your Reaction to the Show
    1988 © Dick Jewell.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Costume Photography 2024 © Tate Photography.
    Courtesy Leigh Bowery Estate.
    Dave Swindells, Limelight: Leigh Bowery
    1987 © Dave Swindells.
    Dave Swindells, Daisy Chain at the Fridge
    Jan '88: Leigh & Nicola © Dave Swindells.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 1 Look 2 1988 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 19 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 4 Look 17 August 1991 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.


    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery
    Session 3 Look 14 August 1990 © Fergus Greer.
    Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.

    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 8 Look 38, June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Fergus Greer, Leigh Bowery Session 7 Look 37 June 1994
    © Fergus Greer. Courtesy Michael Hoppen Gallery.
    Installation Photography © Tate Photography
    (Larina Annora Fernandes)
    Charles Atlas, Still from Mrs Peanut Visits New York
    1999 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist and
    Luhring Augustine, New York.
    Charles Atlas, Still from Because We Must
    1989 © Charles Atlas. Courtesy of the artist
    and Luhring Augustine, New York.
  • images courtesy of HUGO

    HUGO Introduces Next-Level Tailoring in Spring/Summer 2025 for a New Generation of Bold Style

    Written by Fashion Tales

    In its Spring/Summer 2025 global brand campaign, HUGO flips the script on tailoring. Photographed by Dan Jackson under the creative direction of Trey Laird and his agency, Team Laird, the focus is on flexible, infinitely adaptable suiting. This full-year campaign will unfold in two chapters: Chapter 1 this Spring/Summer, followed by Chapter 2 in Fall/Winter.

    In Chapter 1, HUGO captures a youthful maverick as he navigates a series of red rooms. The styling of his sharply cut suit evolves from classic and timeless, to offbeat and inspired, combined with a snug tank top, a chunky leather boot, a boldly printed short-sleeved shirt, and tailored shorts. His looks are inspired by the concept of The GO Suit: a new, very HUGO approach to building a go-to tailored wardrobe for every aesthetic and occasion.

    In womenswear, we meet a heroine in a sleek white three-piece suit in the red rooms. The camera zooms in on the details: a bold belt, a strappy heel, the cropped cut of a vest, highlighting the adaptability of HUGO's tailoring for all genders, and celebrating the individuality of the person inside the suit: recharging the brand's motto, “HUGO Your Way” as a true statement for self-expression.

    The “go your way” narrative of the campaign also underscores the brand's commitment to a better fashion industry. Enter: HUGO FORWARD, a new platform showcasing HUGO's innovative, technology-driven approach to design. HUGO FORWARD pieces will carve a path of transformational exploration, following the mantra, “You've got to keep moving to stay ahead of the game.”

    HUGO FORWARD's first drop arrives this season: three tailored styles created with plant- based HeiQ AeoniQTM, a groundbreaking cellulose yarn made from wood pulp that rivals the performance properties of polyester. A modular constellation of menswear suit separates, including a single-breasted blazer, casual jacket, and trousers, all in timeless black, these HeiQ AeoniQTM and wool-blend pieces can be worn matched or clashed, smart or casual. Further cementing HUGO's status as a tailoring pioneer, these are the first-ever suiting separates crafted with this fiber to go to market.

    images courtesy of HUGO

Pages