Mark Kenly Domino Tan, with their immaculate tailoring and strong siluettes, has been a brand to watch during the latest seasons of CPHFW. This season they are rebranding into MKDT Studio and we had a chat with creative director Caroline Engelgaar about the transition and the future of the brand. 

Ulrika Lindqvist: Please tell us about the process in creating the ss25 runway show?

Caroline Engelgaar: The creation of the SS25 show stemmed from our rebranding that we are cementing with this collection. The time is now ripe, for us to fully step into our brand name MKDT Studio. We are a fantastic team, that respects and honors the brand and the craftmanship that unites us, so from that sprung a very natural indication, that now is the time. So, with that on the table, we started to mold how we wanted to tell that story with the SS25 show. In this defining moment of our brand, I found myself analyzing our heritage and the timelessness of good design, bringing forth our old monogram, the most gorgeous earring that was made for KINRADEN several years ago, as well as reflecting on the inspirations that have guided our creative journey thus far.

We have drawn inspiration from the vastness of the sea, the endless skies and our inspiration now brought us to THE EARTH. The last part in our triology.
We were inspired by the force of the earth, grounding ourselves and exploring the uncontrolled versus the highly controlled. A source of stability yet an ever-changing landscape. We had a bright desert and crafts in the very center of our mood board and worked from that palette. Completing the experience with jazz band Blue Lake, who made a track for us with contemporary desert sound.

UL: How did you choose the location for the runway show?

CE: Being focused on the idea of the earth, and the counterbalance of the controlled and uncontrolled, for the show we needed to seek to old Copenhagen. The old cobble stone streets, controlled, solid for centuries and yet full of new and young movement, bringing that uncontrolled quality. Therefore, our choice fell on the historical “Kunstakademiet” Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts on Kongens Nytorv right next to Nyhavn (and our flagship store.) An amazing place of old Copenhagen heritage, with the budding new minds of the creative fields. What better place to honor our past and unveil our next step.

UL:What does the SS25 collection represent and what was the main inspiration for his collection?

CE: As we touched on, for this season, we delve into the earth’s essence, its layers, movements, and rich colors — to capture its enduring qualities and transcribe them into garments. I was immensely inspired by the purpose and integrity of Indian architect Bijoy Jain, whose dedication to craft and concern for the relationship between humanity and nature is nothing less of astounding. Together with the Danish artist Sara Martinsen, who has created show pieces for us using raw, unprocessed materials, we found ourselves muses that represented the same in many ways. They work with the rhythms of life with their processes, which simultaneously can be spiritual and concrete. F.ex. Martinsens work demands a profound understanding of her materials. Each piece being crafteded from biogenic plant materials, which absorb CO2 as they grow. In general, the collection presents a tighter, contoured silhouette with a nod to the controlled 50’s with boatnecks and fine tweed – leveling it up with the more unbounded Atelier collection with its fringe jacquard, applique artwork, silk and ramie fabrics.The color scale tells the story of the earth, the clay, mud, sand, granite and shades of greens, like the soft matcha. With our Atelier in a classic palette of ivory and black.

UL: What was the biggest challenge creating your ss25 collection?

CE: We made our Atelier collection tighter this season in luxurious materials and draped shapes. And we built among other things on an idea of oversized floral embroidery,  where we ended up developing an appliqué flower on silk and wool. We wanted the applique art works to be finely crafted with a 3D effect, but I wanted it to feel uncontrolled, and undone still. To not take away the handcraft of the result. And to have that sent through production and interpreted by a third party has been a journey. But I’m extremely pleased with the end result, that you will see at the show on Wednesday.

 UL: How would you describe the MKDT customer?

CE:It’s quite simple really. To me, the MKDT Studio costumer is someone that understands craftmanship, appreciates good work and exquisite materials, but still wants something with elevated details that feels interesting.
Actually, when I first was hired to the team, I took a day where I spent 4h in our flagship store, just to take in who our customers were. And it was remarkable to see, the youngest being in her twenties, and the oldest in her seventies. I mean, what a privilege, to have that span.

 UL: What can we expect from  MKDT Studio in the future? 

CE: A continuation of the good work and design we’ve been creating so far, to inspire aesthetically and create products where you can see and feel the good quality. Even if we from SS25 are going to have completed our rebranding 360° you can always depend on MKDT Studio to develop our already good products in premium materials. We want to build a well-aligned wardrobe of great stables and occasion wear that supports the idea of longevity, both in quality and across seasons.