• photography Ellinor Sjöberg 

    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist 

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    all clothing Dr. Denim

    all underwear Sloggi

    Dr.Denim celebrates 20 years! An interview with founder Alexander Graah

    Written by Ulrika Lindqvist

    This year, Gothenburg-based denim brand Dr. Denim celebrates 20 years of redefining casual fashion. We caught up with founder Alexander Graah to discuss how the brand went from indie beginnings to becoming a household name, gaining global attention with stars like Harry Styles, and what's next for their future.

    Ulrika Lindqvist: Congratulations on 20 years of Dr.Denim! Please tell me a little about how it all started 20 years ago? What is your background and why did you found Dr.Denim?

    Alexander Graah: Dr. Denim was born in Gothenburg in 2004 as a true garage brand. Within years, the brand had become an explosively popular household name in its native Sweden, before subsequently going international. Now, twenty years since its founding, Dr. Denim products are sold across dozens of markets around the world and continues to produce some of the world’s finest denim garments at its price point.

    Dr. Denim was essentially born from the idea that we wanted to right some wrongs in the world of denim. With a focus on exceptional quality and longevity through craftsmanship and an obsessive attention to detail, we wanted to challenge the notion that you must pay through the nose to get hold of a great pair of jeans. I think it’s fair to say we were predestined to get into denim. My brother and I grew up around denim, collecting denim, breathing denim, and we’re third generation entrepreneurs in the fashion industry. We’re very much self-taught, never studied fashion design or anything like that – we’re both economists – but at the end of the day you get far by being determined and passionate about what you do.

    UL: I’ve heard that you are inspired by your father, Morten, what about him inspired you? 
    AG: Growing up in a family of small business owners teaches you something about being 100% committed to what you do, about the importance of building something independent that’s not subject to the whims of banks and venture capitalists who don’t care about what you do for a living. Morten is also the reason we encountered denim pretty much from birth. And he’s a bit of a weirdo, in a good way; he’s always taught us to go our own way and not care about what others think.

    UL: What would you say are the core values of Dr.Denim? 
    AG: The six of them are:
    Hard-working but easy-going
    Passionate
    Wry
    Unpretentious
    Honest & Authentic
    Detail-obsessed

    UL: Please tell us about the process in creating the FW24 collection?
    AG: Relatively speaking, our collections are timeless staple fits, so for us it’s a matter of spending time with our product developers reiterating until we have it right, tweaking fits, getting the little details right. There’s no shortcut. To celebrate 20 years in action, we’ve taken a deep dive into our archives to create anniversary pieces, a sort of a trip down memory lane with re-issues of denim and other things that brought us to where we are today. 

    You’ll find the return of our skinny straight unisex jean Snap which was launched in 2004 and quickly became the (un)official indie uniform of the 00’s and changed the Scandinavian denim landscape. We’re also releasing Dash - Stream Dry with detailing inspired by its 2004 ancestor, the Unagi. The point here is not to make a heritage denim product but to bring back some of the good stuff and provide a take on our not-so-brief history. The Annivarsity Jacket is exactly what it sounds like. A varsity jacket celebrating our anniversary, featuring artworks from past collections to celebrate what has been and will continue to be.

    UL: How would you describe the Dr.Denim customer?
    AG: Global consumers who appreciate responsible, long-lasting garments in ultra-modern but timeless fits at affordable price points. We have a pretty broad range of customers which is how it should be. Appealing to many, the brand has a two-way relationship with many denim-loving subcultures.

    UL: What have been the most challenging aspects these 20 years of Dr.Denim?
    AG: It’s inevitable that a lot of things happen over the course of 20 years. The entire landscape has changed. I mean, we used to work with a huge range of independent stores which are now long gone, replaced by e-commerce and highly complex logistics, so we’ve had to transform our business in a lot of ways which probably sounds easier than it is. These days, it sometimes feels as if we’re running a tech business as much as a denim business. What I mean by that is that fashion and craftsmanship are, of course, the core of what we do, but we’ve had to put enormous resources into tech around that core in order to thrive in the landscape as it looks today. 

    UL: Please tell us a memorable moment from these 20 years?
    AG: There was that one time when Harry Styles wore a pair of our jeans. It wasn’t a product placement or anything – just him choosing to wear jeans from an independent Swedish denim brand.

    UL: What are your plans for the future for Dr.Denim? 
    AGWe plan on continuing to do what we do because, by now, this is our way of life and part of our identity. As much as things have changed, we believe the need for what we do remains out there, not least with all those cheap disposable garments churned out by that site which shall not be named. Collectively we have to consume fewer and better things which don’t end up in a landfill after a few uses. I hope we can continue to inspire people in some small way to think about the purchases they make and appreciate the value of buying something that lasts.

    photography Ellinor Sjöberg
    fashion Ulrika Lindqvist
    hair and makeup Elva Ahlbin
    model Stella S / MIKAs

    all clothing Dr. Denim

    all underwear Sloggi

  • photography Peter Irgens 
    fashion Genevieve Sztuk 
    hair and makeup Gabriella Tipsa Bruun 
    model Ash Adcock / Scoop Models
    top & skirt By Malene Birger
    shorts Villao
    gloves Gestuz
    necklace Stylist’s Own
    shoes InWear

    By the Sea

    photography by Peter Irgens by Sandra Myhrberg

    jacket GANNI

    long sleeve top Villao
    shorts Herskind

    leg warmers By Malene Birger
    belt Gestuz
    shoes Stylist’s Own

    turtleneck Graumann
    top Baserange
    shorts Herskind
    tights, shoes & earrings Stylist’s Own
    shirt Aeron
    top used as bolero Baserange
    trousers Gestuz
    shoes Dion Lee

    turtleneck Graumann
    top Baserange

    earring Stylist’s Own

    shirt & vest Dorothee Schumacher
    shorts Herskind
    skirt ARV Copenhagen
    brooch ARV Copenhagen x Ninna York
    shoes Stylist’s Own
    leg warmers By Malene Birger
    top & skirt By Malene Birger
    shorts Villao
    gloves Gestuz
    necklace Stylist’s Own

    shirt & vest Dorothee Schumacher
    shorts Herskind
    skirt ARV Copenhagen
    brooch ARV Copenhagen x Ninna York
    leg warmers By Malene Birger

    shoes Stylist’s Own

  • Gazing Bodies - a daring exhibition by CFHILL

    Written by Natalia Muntean

    In CFHILL’s latest exhibition, Gazing Bodies, the interaction between the viewer and artwork takes centre stage. Curated by Caroline Wieckhorst, in collaboration with writer Lo Hallén, the exhibition showcases international superstars like Sarah Lucas, Karon Davis, and Kennedy Yanko alongside Swedish luminaries such as Karin Mamma Andersson and Charlotte Gyllenhammar. The show delves into the idea of the ‘gaze,’ drawing on psychoanalysis, and questioning how artworks can seem to “gaze back” at the viewer. As Hallén explains, “Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and the way we think and converse in their presence,” creating a sense of power reversal where “they clearly hold a certain power.”

    The venue, CFHILL’s new space at the Armémuseum, plays a vital role in elevating the experience, with its historical setting and innovative design. “We love this 18th-century space,” says Michael Storåkers, Executive Chairman, “its beautiful natural light enhances the appearance of the paintings and sculptures.” This unique combination of venue and curation offers a profound exploration of identity, perception, and how art influences its observers.


    We sat down for an interview with Michael Storåkers, Caroline Wieckhorst, and Lo Hallén about the curatorial decisions behind Gazing Bodies, the impact of their new venue, and how the exhibition challenges traditional perspectives on art and the gaze.

    Natalia Muntean: CFHILL recently shifted to working more like a gallery. How has this new approach influenced how you curate exhibitions like Gazing Bodies?
    Michael Storåkers:
    We always wanted to bring the most exciting artists from all over the world to CFHILL, which is still the case, and we still work with the brightest external, international curators to make it happen. In Gazing Bodies, we combined some global stars we have worked with before, such as Paloma Varga Weisz, Klara Kristalova, and Kennedy Yanko, with Sarah Lucas and Karon Davis, together with some amazing Swedish artists we represent like a traditional gallery – among them Charlotte Gyllenhammar, Marie-Louise Ekman and Martina Muntzing.

    NM: With the move to the Armémuseum, how has the new venue shaped the experience of displaying artworks? Did the space's historical or architectural elements affect your curation decisions?
    MS:
    We love this 18th-century space; how you enter from the grand courtyard and dive right into the art. Its look is a take on the white cube, created by our three architects led by Valentin Nordström, which combines an innovative wall system with the historical setting. The space receives beautiful natural light from different directions, enhancing the appearance of the paintings and sculptures. The co-curators, Caroline Wieckhorst and Lo Hallén worked with the space to heighten the feeling that the artworks by the 22 artists gaze back at visitors.

    NM: What new things have come with your new way of working and the venue change? How do these changes benefit both the artists and the audience?
    MS:
    We wanted to move away from our previous ‘headquarter-style’ space and shift towards a more classic gallery venue. Now, we are in multiple locations throughout the year, participating in art fairs and similar events. Being CFHILL, we, of course, still aimed for something truly impactful, and I believe we’ve achieved the best of both worlds.

    Regarding this show, I think the white cube structure, the focus on the art in this space, and the beautiful natural light and historical setting support the artists and the audience in this Gazing Bodies experience.

    NM: The exhibition is called Gazing Bodies. Can you explain how the idea of the ‘gaze’ works in this exhibition, especially with the artworks being seen as if they have their personalities?
    Lo Hallén:
    I understand the interpretation of the exhibition text as suggesting that artworks possess personalities, but I wouldn’t use that specific word. To me, it imposes our odd human subjectivity onto them – haha. Instead, for the show, we thought of them as distinct entities with their own desires and demands, which we can't fully access or comprehend. Yet, they directly influence us as viewers. Artworks shape how we move through a gallery space and think and converse in their presence. They clearly hold a certain power. It can evoke a sensation of being watched – the artwork gazing back – especially when a piece depicts or is reminiscent of a body.

    NM: You’ve included artists from both Sweden and other countries. How did you choose these specific artists, and how do their works connect to the exhibition’s theme?
    Caroline Wieckhorst:
    It’s been a privilege to work with these amazing artists and their artistry. A key for us has been finding a great mix and balance of art with different expressions and mediums that communicate with and challenge each other and us as viewers. Works that, in different ways, have their own gaze and agency, interacting with our emotions, challenging our perspectives and sometimes what we might take for granted or know to be true. How we interpret the artworks is individual, and this is the point – to shift the focus from how the artists, curators, and critics intend for the art to be interpreted and, instead, how the art itself makes us react and feel.

    For instance, an artwork that very literally gazes back at me is Ulla Wiggen’s eye, Iris. With its ice-blue colour, it’s hard not to feel watched and pierced through your inner thoughts. But is this how you would interpret or feel about this work? And Karon Davis’ sculpture Echo & Narcissus: Looking Glass, speaks to me about the fragility of life, with the plaster that is lightly pieced together and at the same time it holds a certain power and grace, that makes me act with a high sense of respect around it. Paloma Varga Weisz’s large bronze sculptures, Wilde Leute, make me want to hang and sit with them, despite their intimidating size. And Charlotte Gyllenhammar’s child sculpture, Beholder, makes me wonder what she is thinking of and how I best approach her. While Marie-Louise Ekman’s huge floor piece, 30 bilder, with her characteristic comic strip motif, makes me break the rules and let loose my inner side, walking all over the piece and acting more like a rebel. Or at least, trying to.

    LH: As Caroline mentioned, we aimed to create a thematic show where various aesthetics and perspectives are represented, with the body as a central theme. Some pieces are abstract, others figurative, but to me, they all convey a sense of the body. For example, Kennedy Yanko’s sculptural work using scrap metal and a material she calls paint skin – formed by pouring large amounts of paint onto a flat surface, which is then shaped and manipulated as it begins to dry – to me says something about what it is like to inhabit a body. It’s perfectly balanced yet also twisted and strange, pieced together in an oddly familiar way. Some parts of the work speak to me in more subtle and ambiguous ways, but this only strengthens its impact. Not everyone will interact with it this way, and it’s not an “intended” reaction, but that’s why we wanted the show so rich. I hope that at least one piece in the show will challenge, unsettle, or make each viewer feel self-conscious.

    NM: The exhibition suggests that the artworks might be ‘looking back’ at the viewers. How do you think people will feel about this idea of being observed by the artworks?
    CW:
    Aren’t we always being watched or observed? I think and hope that it might open up new ideas about who or what is watching us, and what this might mean to us. Being watched or observed, might not always mean Big Brother is watching. Like I mentioned previously, Wiggen’s work makes me feel watched and pierced through my inner thoughts, but someone else might think of it as a protector, or companion, making them feel less alone.

    LH: In the show, some artworks, like Karin Mamma Andersson’s About a Girl and Arvida Byström’s Clown, or Wiggen’s Iris that Caroline mentioned, feature piercing stares that demand a direct engagement from viewers and create a distinct sensation of being watched. The theme might not be intuitive for everyone, but I think it’s the experience many of us have when observing images and objects. W.J.T. Mitchell’s book What Do Pictures Want? was a big inspiration for the show’s theme, particularly his exploration of the power of images beyond traditional semiotic or rhetorical interpretations.

    NM: You mention ideas from feminist theory and psychoanalysis in the exhibition. How did these ideas shape the way you put the show together?
    LH:
    The feminist theory mentioned serves more as a background for the popularisation of the idea of the gaze. For the show's theme, we attempted to explore it in different ways. Many theories of the gaze aren’t focused on gendered power dynamics. I believe that allowing them space outside of academia benefits both art and feminism in the long run.

    Laura Mulvey’s influential essay “Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema” appropriated psychoanalysis to highlight how visual media reinforces societal power structures. While this essay has been pivotal for art, film, and gender studies, it has also been said to focus too heavily on a specific interpretation of the gaze, steering away from other significant aspects. It’s not an issue with the essay, obviously, but rather a result of its popularity. For this show, we tried to engage with those other dimensions, though freely and associatively.

    CW: Feminist theories have served a great purpose in lifting questions of inequalities within the art scene (and other areas). If we can contribute to the continued work for feminism in art, by adding to the perspectives, lifting issues of how we value art, and using a different approach, it’s a big bonus for me.

    NM: Some of the artworks in Gazing Bodies look like human bodies and have qualities that feel both familiar and strange. How do you think these qualities help viewers reflect on themselves?
    LH:
    We found it interesting to work with motifs we initially reflect ourselves in, only to discover they are much more than mirrors. Perhaps the best way to reflect on oneself is to experience the fragmented parts of our identities without trying to piece them together, and instead rest in the strangeness. I think art, in general, helps with that.

    NM: The exhibition talks about the struggle between what we can understand and what we can’t when we look at art. How do the artworks show this tension, and what do you want people to take away from that experience?
    CW:
    I hope the exhibition will unlock questions and evoke emotions that last even after people leave the exhibition space. If we can make this happen, I think we’ve succeeded. For me, it's not so much about debating what we comprehend and what we don't, but rather about gaining new insights into how we perceive art and how art influences us. How do we react to, or interact with, art? Does it make us aware of our movements, thoughts or how we talk?

    LH: Personally, I find it important not to try to fully grasp an artwork through thought, or language, alone. If that is a sufficient approach, the piece should be a text rather than a visual work. Ideally, the artworks will reveal themselves in unique ways to different viewers, highlighting various aspects, making it an intimate and individual experience around a common theme.

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