Fashion Week just started, and I’m eager to see the new collections walk down the runway. Going to a fashion show is kind of like going to the movie theatre, to have the experience of a beautiful and overwhelming movie, only during fashion week there’s a new movie every hour.
Between the Stylein and the Maya show there’s a pause. I went to one of the pop-up stores to have a chat with more commercial designers, the ones from expanding fashion brand and online boutique Nelly.
What strikes me first is the gender and age of the designers. All are women between the ages 19-30. First I have a sit-down with shoe designer Emily Clark. She tells me she’s still in school, at the Nordic School of Design. Both Nelly and the school are suitably based in Borås, a small Swedish town, but known to most Swedes as the textile town.
How did you get in to shoes in the beginning?
-I actually studied Social Anthropology at the University but for a while got a bit tired of it. I wanted to challenge myself by doing something more creative. That’s why I started at the Nordic Design College. I guess I wanted to see what I could accomplish. I had design studies for a year and then choose to niche my education toward shoe design.
And creatively, how does it affect you working for a commercial brand?
-It doesn’t. Of course I have to know my clients and what attracts them, but I have total control of my line, and with that comes total creative freedom.
Next up I had a chat with a designer team which includes Siri Vikman and Lowe Olsen. They are both in control of production, design, and purchase. Siri worked as a stylist and was specifically asked by the board to start her own clothing line. Lowe joined her just a couple of months ago, and they now create the line together.
Lowe, you’re only 19. How did this happen?
-I contacted Nelly about 5 years ago for an internship. I got it and worked there for quite a while. I’ve of course been in school during the time, and also doing some modeling. Then they asked me to become a designer and here I am. I’m still in the learning process, but I have a lot to offer as well.
They describe each other as opposites and that they both enjoy working as a team. I ask about their client - who is she?
Siri answers me: she is around her twenties or even younger, but sometimes older. This person reads a lot of blogs or could be a blogger herself. The style is heading towards more attitude, “badass”. The outfit should be a statement.
After talking with the young designer duo I have a chat with designers Freja Sundberg and Madeleine von Schedvin. They both have their own line and they are very positive about working in the commercial sector, even if there’s a restriction regarding what kinds of fabrics to be able to work with. Freja says that she enjoys creating her own line and that she is not creatively limited in her work.
I ask Madeleine about her favorite designers and upcoming trends, who are they and what will they be?
-Alexander Wang and Roberto Cavalli are two of my favorites, but they are very opposite designers. I like to mix excessive with minimalistic. As for upcoming trends I’m very interested in the grunge era, I often look at men’s clothing for inspiration. Another consistent inspiration is Kate Moss… because she is and will always be, Kate Moss.
My time is running up, better move on to Berns and the Mayla show.
Written by Michaela Myhrberg, photography by Sandra Myhrberg.